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Shein to open its first permanent bricks-and-mortar retail space at BHV Marais

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October 1, 2025

A few days after staging a pop-up in the heart of Paris’s Marais district and, above all, unveiling a deal with the French brand Pimkie that sparked controversy across the clothing sector, Shein has announced a major push into the French market.

The Asian platform has chosen France to open its first permanent bricks-and-mortar retail spaces — a world first and, it says, a “commitment to revitalising city centres.”

The brand has been often accused of unfair competition for flooding the market with cut-price products sold online. The first Shein space will open within the Parisian department store BHV, which is currently reinventing itself, in the coming weeks.

BHV Marais to host Shein’s first permanent physical retail space in November – DR

Six stores will open from November, initially at BHV Marais in Paris, followed by five more, rolled out gradually, in Galeries Lafayette stores managed by an affiliate in Dijon, Reims, Grenoble, Angers and Limoges, according to a press release issued on Wednesday.

“In choosing France as the location for our physical retail experiment, we recognise its position as a major fashion capital and embrace its spirit of creativity and excellence,” said Donald Tang, executive chairman of Shein. “It is natural that this journey should begin in Paris, at BHV, the cradle of modern commerce, before extending to five other cities across the country.”

Shein has teamed up with Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), a retail property company that operates BHV Marais and several Galeries Lafayette stores, following sale and affiliation agreements with the Galeries Lafayette group. The takeover of the Paris department store was a sensitive matter, not least because relationships with certain brands became strained in 2024, and in relation to the finalisation of the acquisition project initiated with the Galeries Lafayette group in 2023.

“We convinced Shein to make our country its first physical testing ground. With Shein, the world’s largest online clothing platform, we are opening a new chapter, starting with BHV and soon our affiliated Galeries Lafayette stores in the regions,” explained Frédéric Merlin, head of the French retail property group, in a press release.

“This project enables us to attract a younger clientele and meet our customers’ expectations, while preserving the DNA of our stores and breathing new life into the hearts of our cities, from Paris to the provinces. It’s also a major innovation: thanks to its in-depth knowledge of online sales, Shein knows what appeals locally and can therefore tailor the offer in a unique way to each area.”

“This alliance is more than just a launch – it’s a commitment to revitalising city centres throughout France, reviving department stores and developing opportunities for French ready-to-wear,” said Shein, promising “the creation of 200 direct and indirect jobs in France within SGM.”

Founded in China in 2012 and now based in Singapore, Shein is primarily a clothing and accessories brand, known for its extremely low prices, a vast array of items and aggressive marketing.

Accused of environmental pollution due to the colossal volumes it puts on the market, and suspected of subjecting workers to unacceptable conditions – because of its sourcing, mainly from China – Shein is also in the crosshairs of the French and European textile and clothing sectors.

The sector, whose French and European federations recently joined forces to sound the alarm over the group’s development, accuses the Asian behemoth of creating unfair competition for companies across the Continent by failing to comply with European standards on the environment, social rights and consumer safety, to which they are subject. It also benefits from a European measure exempting small parcels from customs duties, which enables Shein to ship its products at low cost and complicates the work of customs authorities when it comes to inspections.

Shein’s recent initiatives in France, including a planned IPO that is reportedly still in the works, are often criticised as part of the ultra-fast-fashion giant’s influence strategy.

The company, which does not disclose its sales figures, is now among Europe’s leading online fashion retailers. However, it employs only a few dozen people in France.

With AFP

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Pitti Bimbo 102 and Pitti Filati 98 prepare to kick off in Florence

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January 20, 2026

Everything is in place for the major innovation of Pitti Immagine’s Winter 2026 shows: the concurrent scheduling at Florence’s Fortezza da Basso of the events dedicated to childrenswear and yarns, with Pitti Bimbo 102 scheduled for January 21 and 22 and Pitti Filati running from January 21 to 23.

On the Top Floor of the Central Pavilion, Pitti Bimbo brings together more than 100 childrenswear brands, over 65% of which are from abroad. “This winter edition of Pitti, and the one next June, are very important for the fair, because we expect them to provide feedback- and we trust it will be a positive endorsement- of the new approach we have given to the exhibition offering, aligning it with the profound transformations in children’s clothing and accessories, which in recent seasons have accelerated at a very fast pace,” commented Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine. “The fragmentation of the production structure, the polarisation between luxury and fast fashion, the drastic downsizing of retail, not to mention regressive demographic trends and their effects on consumption models and volumes. It was inevitable that all this would completely call into question the entire international trade fair system, including our show. We do not hide the difficulties; the next steps are crucial, but Pitti Bimbo remains the most important event in Europe and the only champion of Italy’s industry in the sector- a high-quality, long-established industry. Reacting, innovating, and proposing effective meeting formats are our duty, and we are working on this with great determination.”

Interpreting the “Motion” theme of Pitti Immagine’s winter shows through the cute penguin Pitt, the star of the campaign created by Amedeo Piccione, the show will bring together on the Top Floor of the Central Pavilion all the facets of childrenswear: from the big names and leading brands that reinterpret adult fashion in mini-me form, to younger, pioneering research labels spanning fashion, design, toys, objects, and small furnishings.

Spanish brand Bobo Choses is a partner in The New Edit project.
Spanish brand Bobo Choses is a partner in The New Edit project.

During the show, Miniconf celebrates 35 years of Sarabanda with an art project that reinterprets the brand’s most iconic campaigns through a contemporary lens, spanning four decades of style and creativity with four works created by Casentino artist Elia Fiumicelli.

New for this edition is the debut of The New Edit, a project focused on contemporary childrenswear that pairs collections with special events and presentations, developed in collaboration with Spanish brand Bobo Choses, which leads the line-up alongside Cozmo, Grey Label, Maison Mangostan, Mini Rodini, PiuPiuChick, The Campamento, The New Society, Tangerine, and True Artist.

The Family Circle, the marketplace founded in Hamburg by Nadine Jung, once again brings to the fair a selection of lifestyle labels and emerging designers that combine quality, attention to materials, and a playful approach to style. The featured brands are 2StoriesKids, Alwero, Bygge, FabFabStickers, Holzwald, Igelkind, Kiko+ & gg, Little Who, and Organicera. In addition to individual stands in the Pitti Bimbo exhibition itinerary, The Family Circle curates a collective exhibition area dedicated to the latest trends, featuring the brands Ambosstoys, Cosy Roots, Routinchen, The Momence Club, and Yogitier.

Finally, Ama Gioconaturalmente, Italy’s leading distributor of brands specialising in kids & family lifestyle, presents a carefully curated selection of high-quality labels, perfect for supporting children’s growth and fulfilling their wishes: Hoppstar, Kids’ Concept, Oli&Carol, Play&Go, Petit Jour Paris / Maison Petit Jour, Quut, Scoot&Ride, Wild&Soft, Egmont Toys, We Are Gommu, and Trixie.

Turning to Pitti Filati, 103 companies are presenting their S/S 2027 collections, including many of the most important Italian and international spinning mills. In detail, there are 67 exhibitors in the Filati area (including nine from abroad: the UK, Japan, Turkey, China, Peru); 21 companies in the CustomEasy area (five from abroad: Japan, Romania, China); 10 exhibitors within the KnitClub area (three from abroad: Hong Kong, Japan, the US); and five companies in the Institutional Area (including one from Australia).

During the show, the Feel the Yarn knitwear contest returns, now in its 17th edition, showcasing the mood boards of 34 participants, selected from over 150 entries and paired with 34 spinning mills from the Feel the Yarn group.

The two shows have separate entrances, but childrenswear brands and designers also have the opportunity to visit Pitti Filati and its Spazio Ricerca to draw inspiration for their future collections.

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Dsquared2 appoints Chiara Baravalle as general manager

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January 20, 2026

The day after announcing a new long-term licence agreement with Staff International, Dsquared2 announced the appointment of its new general manager, Chiara Baravalle, who steps in to lead the Caten brothers’ brand after working closely with Marco Bizzarri, first at Gucci as chief of staff and, more recently, at the investment firm Forel as managing director.

Chiara Baravalle is the new General Manager of Dsquared2.

Previously, Baravalle, who began her career in Silicon Valley after graduating from Stanford University, served as general manager at Elisabetta Franchi and as a management consultant at Bain & Company in the Fashion and Luxury division.

“We are thrilled to welcome Chiara to Dsquared2,” said the brand’s founders and creative directors Dean and Dan Caten. “Her strategic vision, operational expertise and hands-on leadership style make her an ideal partner to embark on the next chapter of the brand’s journey. 2026 marks the beginning of a new phase, focused on reactivating the brand and laying the foundations for sustainable growth. Chiara knows that brands are living systems, built on people, culture and clarity of purpose.”

Baravalle will be tasked with leading a strategic reset focused on strengthening the brand’s foundations, sharpening execution, and ensuring long-term growth. In particular, her goals will be to win over younger consumers and accelerate expansion in key markets.

“Dsquared2 is a bold and iconic brand that anticipated many of the product and marketing strategies that have since become industry standards. The dualism at the heart of Dsquared2- between Canadian utility and Italian tailoring, between pioneering spirit and irreverent sensuality, between two creative forces- feels more relevant than ever,” said Baravalle, commenting on her appointment.

“The AW26 fashion show was a powerful demonstration of Dean and Dan’s mastery of showmanship, while the product itself reflects their sartorial expertise. It is a pleasure to work with Dean and Dan, whose iconoclasm and sincerity set them apart in the industry, and whose life’s work it is an honour for us to carry into the future,” Baravalle said.

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​Wales Bonner launches Autumn Winter 2026 campaign exploring the romance of harmony

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January 20, 2026

Wales Bonner has launched its lookbook for Autumn Winter 2026, shot by Malick Bodian. Exploring the romance of harmony, Wales Bonner reimagines classic uniforms through a sensuous, poetic lens.

A look from ‘Morning Raga’ by Wales Bonner – Malick Bodian

 
Inspired by an elemental simplicity, Wales Bonner presents design classics including suits, polo silhouettes, top coats, and chore jackets, reimagined through the label’s signature European heritage meets Afro Atlantic lens, for its Autumn Winter 2026 collection ‘Morning Raga.’ Driven by the pursuit of harmony in modernist architectural traditions, both men’s and women’s looks feature nostalgic tailoring and a subtle blend of textures, from Italian wool and satin to leather and metal studs.

A poetic suit by Wales Bonner
A poetic suit by Wales Bonner – Malick Bodian

 
“From early design ideals of purity to the bold vision of figures like Indian architect Balkrishna Doshi, the collection presents a wardrobe between the practical and the sensual,” the brand announced in a press release.

The almost liminal set was designed by Jabez Bartlett and looks were styled by Tom Guinness. Jonny Lu Studio’s art direction continued the dreamy atmosphere of the campaign as models cast by Rachel Chandler pose in contemplative stances.

Men's and women's looks from 'Morning Raga'
Men’s and women’s looks from ‘Morning Raga’ – Malick Bodian

 
Grace Wales Bonner launched her eponymous label in 2014, following her graduation from Central Saint Martins in London, and she won the LVMH Young Designer Prize in 2016. Wales Bonner was named as Hermès’ creative director of menswear in October last year.

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