Two young, but experienced designers – Nicolas Di Felice at Courrèges and Julien Klausner at Dries Van Noten – were welcome reminders of how to create distinctive fashion for house founded by revolutionary creators. Both have the same alma mater – La Cambre in Brussels.
Courrèges: Blinded by the Sun
The best designer in fashion these days, at least when it comes to self-editing, is Nicolas Di Felice, whose latest show for Courrèges was a model lesson in precision, punch and polish.
Courrèges Spring/Summer 2026 collection
Once again, Di Felice created a bright white set – a perfect circle, with rings of circular benches inside a 19th-century wrought iron market. But then went into overdrive with uber-bright overhead lighting, worthy of an exam in the “Squid Game”. So bright, Courrèges sent out natty pairs of all-black sunglasses with each invitation to provide protection.
“I was thinking of blinded by the sun in the sense what is true and what is fake. Too much information. It’s all a bit overwhelming. That’s where I started,” said Nicolas, seconds before Kering chairman François-Henri Pinault, whose empire includes Courrèges, embraced him briefly with a huge smile.
His opening looks were cold in icy blue, and his silhouettes tight, the models faces veiled to block out the sun. Before gradually loosening up and making most of the collection in natural fabrics, along with lean-and-mean leathers. So even if the line was neat and strict, the clothes looked comfortable.
Playing on André Courrèges’ DNA, especially his ’60s ideas, but courageously. Like taking André’s signature miniature belts and making several cocktails ingeniously out of scores of tiny belts.
Flat shoes, glove-like sling-backs or transparent boots all had great zest, as did the soundtrack. Churning galactic funk co-composed by Nicolas and Erwan Sene, interspersed with a French voice telling you the temperature of the hour. Only a French female accent can make that sounds sexy.
Courrèges Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Paris
Ending with a series of sun shield oblong shapes, taken from cars, but used in futuristic dresses. Futurism, which André Courrèges invented in fashion, can often look hackneyed today. But Di Felice always manages to give it optimism and belief, which the future that it should ideally represent.
In the half-decade since he joined Courrèges in 2020 from Louis Vuitton, Di Felice has turned its show into one of the hottest half-dozen in fashion. Thousands of fans scream and chant his guests into each show.
Courrèges may not be a giant house, but it is the hottest today within the Kering/Artemis luxury empire. And the biggest single reasons for that is Di Felice. And a management that is smart enough to let him do what he wants.
Dries Van Noten: Tried and tested
One almost felt one was in Scandinavia at the latest show of Dries Van Noten. So similar were the prints to Verner Panton’s designs of the 1970s. Or, indeed, to Marimekko colors of the past decade.
Not that they didn’t look easy on the eye, yet somehow very familiar. Otherwise, this was a polished performance by designer Julian Klausner. His latest women’s collection for the house blended street style, rich fabrics and ladylike twists: très Dries Van Noten in other words.
Staged inside a completely unadorned art space in the Palais de Tokyo, except for 400 Louis XVI chairs and the guests. All focused on the clothes, led out by quite a few little jackets, which turned out to be inspired by surfer silhouettes and wetsuit shapes – though with added small pleats, ruffles and color. Made in light, airy colors – lime, lichen, pale gray or canary yellow – all had charm.
“Joyful, optimistic… Like the ’60s was,” argued Klausner – an ex-Maison Margiela staffer – in a group chat post-show. Finishing shoes, sleeves, collars, T-shirts with strass and crystals, suggesting the shimmering light of the sea.
Respecting Dries rich history as a tailor, Julien cut some great nobleman’s coats – soaring collars, angled pockets and majestic proportions. Making them in broken disk or tropical leaf prints, very posh Panton. And once again a little too familiar.
Coming after his stellar menswear collection in June, this all felt like a slight step back.
But still highly competent. Dries, in effect, is in very safe hands.
Bloomingdale’s has appointed Russ Patrick as its new general merchandise manager of home.
Bloomingdale’s names Russ Patrick GMM of home. – Bloomingdale’s
Patrick joins Bloomingdale’s after a 33-year career at Neiman Marcus, where he most recently served as senior vice president, general merchandise manager and head merchant of men’s, gifts, home and children’s. He departed the Dallas-based retailer in 2023, and has since acted as an industry consultant.
“The strength of the team, the clarity of the vision and the opportunity ahead make Bloomingdale’s the destination,” Patrick said. “I’m energized to take on this next chapter as GMM of Home, contributing to the continued evolution of such an iconic company, and to do so in New York — the center of retail energy.”
In his new role, Patrick succeeds Dan Leppo, who transitioned last March to sister company Macy’s as senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and kids’.
Long regarded as a core pillar of corporate strategy, DE&I (diversity, equity and inclusion) is now going through a turbulent period. Under intensifying political, economic and social pressures, it has reached a pivotal moment. The sixth White Paper from the International Association of Department Stores (IADS) examines whether inclusion remains a fundamental priority or risks being pushed into the background.
Inclusion in the United States is under strain amid pressure from the presidential administration – Shutterstock
The 2025 edition looks at DE&I at a time when commitments are being put to the test. The year 2024 saw heightened scrutiny of inclusion programmes. In January 2025, the signing of a controversial US presidential executive order entitled “Ending Radical and Costly Government Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Programs and Preferences” prompted immediate reactions from major North American companies fearing legal reprisals, according to IADS.
The myth that inclusion penalises businesses
The 2025 report draws on a set of concrete observations from an analysis of the practices of leading retailers worldwide. It highlights four dimensions in which DE&I, when embedded in day-to-day operations, serves as a measurable driver of performance. Firstly, organisations with diverse leadership teams report stronger decision-making and greater strategic agility.
Secondly, companies that value inclusion see improved employee retention, thereby reducing turnover costs in a historically volatile sector. Thirdly, inclusion fosters more effective communication within teams, which reduces operational errors and strengthens cohesion.
DE&I is a legacy of civil rights struggles
Finally, retailers note that some of the most relevant ideas come directly from frontline teams who, thanks to their diverse experiences, contribute significantly to innovation and to adapting to varied customer expectations. These findings show that DE&I is not only an ethical value, but also a concrete driver of organisational effectiveness.
Despite conservative rhetoric, inclusion and diversity are an asset for companies, says IADS – Shutterstock
The report also notes that DE&I forms part of a longer legacy, rooted in the civil rights movement and in the historic demands of retail frontline teams for fair treatment and safer working conditions. However, contemporary expectations, often unclear or poorly defined, have given rise to what some stakeholders describe as “DE&I fatigue”, fuelled by doubts about the sincerity of commitments rather than by clear strategic thinking.
Inclusion, between intention and ‘strategic advantage’
The White Paper further points out that DE&I cannot be one-size-fits-all: priorities vary by region — from gender parity, ethnicity and disability to socio-economic background and national integration — and expectations regarding language and transparency differ considerably. For international groups, tailoring local approaches while upholding universal principles of equity is a major operational challenge.
Finally, IADS sets out the conditions that enable inclusion to take root for the long term: listening to employees, setting clear behavioural expectations, fostering collaboration between stores and headquarters, and ensuring fairness in recruitment and development processes. Beyond intention, these capabilities help retailers turn DE&I into a tangible strategic advantage, strengthening resilience, engagement and relevance in a constantly evolving environment.
Founded in 1928, IADS coordinates exchanges between department stores worldwide and publishes an annual White Paper on a key industry issue. Previous publications have focused on the Covid-19 pandemic, digital transformation, sustainability, retail media and the role of middle management.
Lululemon founder Chip Wilson is trying to excise private equity firm Advent from the apparel maker’s board as part of an ongoing proxy fight, Semafor reported on Monday, citing people familiar with the matter.
Lululemon
Wilson had launched a proxy fight in late December by nominating three independent directors to the company’s board.
Wilson is one of Lululemon’s largest independent shareholders, with a 4.27% stake as of December 2025, according to data compiled by LSEG.
While Wilson has said he does not want a board seat, he is making it clear that he will not consider any settlement with Lululemon unless two legacy directors, including chair David Mussafer, resign, Semafor reported.
The yogawear maker founder’s frustrations have been compounded by Advent’s spotty record in the consumer space, according to the Semafor report.
Lululemon also faces activist pressure from Elliott Management, which took a $1 billion stake in the company earlier in December and has been working closely with former Ralph Lauren executive Jane Nielsen for a potential CEO role.
Reuters could not immediately verify the report. Lululemon and Advent did not immediately respond to requests for comment.