On Friday, Septembe 26, in the midst of Milan Fashion Week, Furla, Fondazione Furla and GAM – Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Milano celebrated the opening of “Under the Sun, Beyond the Skin”, a solo exhibition by Sara Enrico curated by Bruna Roccasalva.
“Under the Sun, Beyond the Skin”, a solo exhibition by Sara Enrico in the gardens of Villa Reale, Milan.
The installation in the gardens of Villa Reale was designed to open up new possibilities for interaction between contemporary art, the natural landscape and public space. Taking the duality between nature and artifice as her starting point, Enrico has created “a landscape within the landscape” through a series of sculptures that “inhabit” the garden, creating a subtle tension between the plant world and an idea of synthetic vitality—between what arises spontaneously and what results from a deliberate act.
The event gave FashionNetwork.com the opportunity to explore Furla’s upcoming projects with CEO Eraldo Poletto, who returned just over a year ago to the helm of the company—which he had already led from 2010 to 2016—to help it put a difficult period behind it.
Eraldo Poletto, CEO of Furla
“The initial priority was to get the company out of the CNC procedure and establish a degree of operational and financial stability. We are now ready for a relaunch built around the product and our communications—particularly social media—to reach a younger audience,” Poletto explained. “In terms of product, I am convinced that the right strategy is to focus on a small number of iconic pieces that account for around 40 per cent of sales. We are working to make our new Iride model a must-have, as the Metropolis was in the past. We tested it in selected stores in December and the response was encouraging. In addition, we need to continue evolving into a lifestyle brand, broadening categories such as eyewear and jewellery, which we already offer.”
At MFW, Furla also unveiled a limited-edition of the Iride, reimagined with distinctive materials and striking details, such as studs and teddy-effect fabric.
The Iride bag in teddy-effect fabric.
On the commercial front, Poletto cited EMEA, Japan and South-East Asia as markets on which Furla will focus energy and resources in the near future.
“In addition, we will focus on e-commerce, which already accounts for a double-digit share of sales, and which we want to strengthen further,” he added.
Conversely, no new openings are planned in the near future for the brand, which already has over 150 mono-brand stores (alongside an extensive wholesale network): “We are in the process of defining a new store concept; our goal is to optimise the network we already have, which is why we have also closed underperforming stores,” the manager explained.
“On pricing, we have slightly widened the base of the pyramid and are focusing on a premium tier, with an average price of around €350. Our aim is for our products to have a perceived value that exceeds their actual price,” Poletto concluded.
“Today, the market offers many opportunities for premium brands; we need to ride this momentum.”
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Add designer to Jaden Smith’s considerable list of professions- along with actor, singer, and rapper- after the Californian creator dreamed up an impressive Dadaist display for his debut at Christian Louboutin.
Jaden Smith’s take on the world of Christian Louboutin – FashionNetwork.com
Evoking a whole plethora of influences from Greek mythology and the Great Paris Exhibitions to Dadaism and the great movement for Civil Rights, in an elaborate set in a disused warehouse in Montparnasse. Mount Parnassus, you will recall, was the home to nine muses in arts and sciences.
Two fine works of footwear even had Greek names: The Plato Loafer, a 2017 model with Swisscheese like holes, which Smith updates with the new Neo CL signature on a steel silver coin. And the Asclepius Sling- named after the ancient god of medicine- with the same emblematic coin detail and metallic hardware on the backstrap.
“I brought my personal interest on Greek mythology in as I thought it would resonate with people, as humans at the end of the day are all very similar. I’m combining my perspective of being an African American designer, linked to my more Dadaist thinking into the heritage of a French maison,” explained courteous 27-year-old.
Mythology meets luxury – FashionNetwork.com
Close by stood a Nam June Paik worthy mound of TVs, with video showing images of Martin Luther King’s 1963 March on Washington, The Sphinx, and clips from Dadaist filmmaker Hans Richter.
“That art piece is about the overdose of information we experience. This revolution that we are in the midst of right now. And the fact that information is being thrown at us all the time. And the psychological effects of looking at 10 screens at the one time. While also drawing correlations between my ancestry and Christian’s ancestry, and the history of art,” said Smith, attired in a giant gangster jeans, an oversized parka and pearl encrusted beanie.
Another installation was a broken temple with fluted columns on which were perched Jaden’s new bags. Notably a series of humungous backpacks and biker satchels, some with a dozen exterior zippered pockets with gold lettering reading- coins, pills, keys, tools, phone, documents, phones, and chargers. Alongside a surrealist tote finished like a bucket of overflowing paint and a Dadaist style back made in a black and white photo of an urban madding crowd.
Creator Jaden Smith – FashionNetwork.com
The whole space was dubbed Christian Louboutin Men’s Exhibition, as a small group of models bathed, inevitably, in red light, circulated wearing the new footwear and bags. Large red fabric rolls made into benches allowed one to enjoy a large video montage, including Jaden as a Wagnerian hero posed in front of gothic castles. Which is where we spotted founder Christian Louboutin, in a video stirring a large vat of red paint, before symbolically handing over a paintbrush to Jaden.
“It’s about craftmanship, extreme luxury, and highest level of design. That’s what Christian Louboutin is all about,” said Smith, describing the brand’s DNA.
Eyebrows were raised when Christian appointed Jaden to the position of creative director, as Parisian designers with two decades long CVs gritted their teeth that an untrained talent got such a coveted position. However, judging by this display, Jaden Smith has the chops, talent, and grace to be very effective in this role.
One suspects the gods of style and time are probably rather pleased.
To coincide with Milan Fashion Week, the S|STYLE 2025- Denim Lab is setting up at Fondazione Sozzani for an edition devoted to the future of sustainable denim and water management in the textile industry. Led by the S|STYLE Sustainable Style platform, founded in 2020 by independent journalist and curator Giorgia Cantarini, this initiative forms part of an ongoing programme of research and experimentation into responsible innovations applied to contemporary fashion.
Designers brought together for the S|STYLE 2025 – Denim Lab project – Denim Lab
The exhibition, open to the public on September 27 and 28, features a site-specific art installation by Mariano Franzetti, crafted from recycled and regenerative denim. Conceived as an immersive experience, it brings fashion design, technological innovation and artistic expression into dialogue.
Water: a central issue in fashion sustainability
Developed in collaboration with Kering‘s Material Innovation Lab (MIL), the Denim Lab brings together a selection of young international designers invited to create a denim look using low-impact materials and processes. They benefit from technical support and access to textiles developed with innovative technologies aimed at significantly reducing water consumption, chemical use, and the carbon footprint of denim production.
This edition places water at its core, an essential issue for a fabric whose production has traditionally demanded substantial volumes of water, from cotton cultivation through to dyeing and finishing. Denim therefore serves as an emblematic testing ground, both familiar and closely associated with the environmental challenges facing the fashion industry.
Outfit created for the Denim Lab by designer Gisèle Ntsama, one of the participants – Maison Gisèle
The fabrics were developed by PureDenim Srl, a specialist in low-impact dyeing techniques, while treatments and finishes were applied by Tonello Srl, a recognised leader in sustainable washing and finishing technologies. The selected designers, from Europe, Asia, and Africa, each offer a distinctive interpretation of denim, blending formal exploration, textile innovation and reflection on the contemporary uses of clothing.
Next has won the bidding race to take over the Russell & Bromley premium footwear business, ending almost a century-and-a-half of family ownership.
Russell & Bromley
Working with bidding partner and stock clearance specialist Retail Realisation, it’s set to takeover the 147-year-old retailer under a pre-pack administration deal.
Crucially, it means 33 of the company’s standalone stores/outlets and nine concessions (many of them in Fenwicks branches) are likely to eventually close.
The extent of the challenges Russell & Bromley faced can be seen from the fact that this is only a £2.5 million cash deal. Next is also paying £1.3 million for some of the retailer’s current stock with Retail Realisation handling the clearance of the rest.
Assuming the deal gets court approval on Wednesday afternoon, Next will own the intellectual property and just three of the stores.
Those stores are in London’s Chelsea and Mayfair, as well as the Bluewater shopping centre in Kent. Interestingly, that Bluewater store is just a stone’s throw away from the former House of Fraser branch that this year will reopen as a Next megastore.
The remaining stores and concessions will continue to trade for “as long as [they] can” as Interpath’s Will Wright and Chris Pole “assess options for them”. Russell & Bromley currently has around 440 employees.
A source close to another bidder, Auralis, told The Times it was disappointing that its offer, which aimed to safeguard jobs and stores, wasn’t given greater priority by those running the sale.
Russell & Bromley CEO Andrew Bromley called the sale decision a “difficult” one but insisted it’s “the best route to secure the future for the brand… we would like to thank our staff, suppliers, partners and customers for their support throughout our history”.
So what are Next’s plans now. That’s not clear. There had been a lot of attention focused on its likelihood of closing the store chain in the run-up to the sale but on Wednesday, Next said that it will “build on the legacy” of the business and “provide the operational stability and expertise to support Russell & Bromley’s next chapter”.
Next had also been reported to be eyeing a similar deal for LK Bennett, but Sky News reported that it has stepped away from this.
It remains one of the most acquisitive retailers on the UK high street, however, and in recent years has bought brands such as Cath Kidston, Joules, FatFace, Made and Seraphine. It also has deals to handle other key brands in the UK market such as Gap, Victoria’s Secret and Laura Ashley.