No one loves footwear more than the Italians. As three first rate collections by leading shoe makers underlined this week. These shoes are made for walking, and ruling and seducing.
A collaboration with Venetian artist Lorenzo Vitturi in a project entitle “Forms and Matter” led to some striking new ideas at Santoni this season. Though not a collaboration, the artist’s graphic emphasis seemed to infuse some great new looks in the collection.
Santoni Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan – Courtesy
A bold series of columns and hangings that combined Vitturi’s vision and Santoni’s finest leathers, orange shoe sole or leather string with Venetian glass – all added to the allure at the Santoni showspace, around the corner from the Duomo.
From the latest version of the bucket bag, made in treated lace to some excellent new airy intreccio slingbacks and boots for gals who want to sizzle. Though the stand-out looks were remarkable new sequinned slingbacks and accompanying bag. Unexpected, exuberant and cool.
In menswear, Santoni also showed a natty new Carlo sneaker, also in suede intreccio.
Santoni Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan – Courtesy
“Santoni has always been about luxury, but maybe this is even more luxurious,” said Giuseppe Santoni, looking tanned and trim in a caramel Solaro herring bone suit.
“I have had a busy summer, at the office and with a little co-working – on my yacht and making shoes down in the hold!” he joked.
Talk about a brilliant display and collection at Sergio Rossi, where designer Paul Andrew incorporated carbon fiber to created shoes of rare sculptural grace.
Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan – Courtesy
Seen in some fantastic ostrich skin wedges – made in an undulating form worthy of Antony Gormley. Paul also showed a striking series of glove-shaped metallic shoes that were studded with kisses. And he riffed on the house’s DNA with a superb slip-on made of studded leather.
“Sergio Rossi really was such a genius with the construction of footwear. In this shoe, he developed this form called Contrapunto in the 1950s, where the sole, in-sole and upper are all one piece,” said Andrew, marveling at the design.
Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan – Courtesy
Keeping the bravura creation, Paul produced golden leather wedges with biomorphic heels named Sinuous, inspired by a Zaha Hadid statue in the Design District of Miami.
All presented inside Sergio Rossi Milan showrooms on Via Pontaccio, before huge gestural abstract paintings by Richard Zinon. In a word, possibly the most inventive shoe collection we have seen in Milan in the past decade.
No presentation this week was busier than Giuseppe Zanotti, who celebrated the most legendary footwear of the recent past with a video installation of The Slim. Presenting a half-dozen examples of the sex-creature shoe.
Giuseppe Zanotti Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan – Courtesy
Famous for having graced the feet of Samantha Jones as the only thing she wore during a steamy sushi scene in “Sex and the City”. Creating a fittingly viral footwear moment.
The Slim was actually born while dining at one of Giuseppe’s favorite seaside spots, Slim, in Cesenatico, Italy. When Zanotti sketched the first design on a tablecloth, turning a discarded fishbone into a precious jewel that sensually drapes across the foot.
“Who would have thought it could have that much impact,” mused the ever-modest Zanotti.
Giuseppe Zanotti Spring/Summer 2026 collection in Milan – Courtesy
Presented in his Renaissance style palazzo on via Napoleone, the event also featured a cool new co-branding, a capsule collection with Moreau Paris. Using the mini-grid checkerboard monogram of the venerable Moreau Paris – founded in 1882 in the French capital – to make leather sneakers that looked like denim. Talk about range.
French cosmetics giant L’Oreal said on Wednesday it will set up a beauty tech hub in the south Indian city of Hyderabad with an initial investment of over 35 billion rupees ($383.4 million).
L’Oréal
The hub aims to be a global base for AI-driven beauty innovation, create 2,000 tech jobs through 2030, and speed up the rollout of advanced AI beauty solutions, the company said in a statement.
Nicolas Hieronimus, L’Oreal’s CEO, and the state government of Telangana formalized the partnership at the World Economic Forum, Davos.
Telangana has rapidly emerged as a key investment and technology hub in southern India.
Bilateral trade between India and France stood at $15 billion in 2024, and Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi and French President Emmanuel Macron have been forging warmer ties.
The two sides have also been working to recast their tax treaty since 2024 to modernize it by adapting global standards on tax transparency, Reuters reported in December.
Swarovski on Tuesday announced the appointment of Sindhu Culas to the role of president, general manager, North America at the Austrian jewelry maker.
Sindhu Culas – Courtesy
Based in the luxury firm’s New York City office, Culas will be responsible for “maximizing the Swarovski physical and digital presence and overall brand affinity in the U.S.,” according to a press release.
“We are thrilled to welcome Sindhu to Swarovski. Her vast leadership experience and passion for the brand make her an exceptional addition to our team,” said Kolja Kiofsky, chief commercial officer, Swarovski.
“With Sindhu guiding our next chapter in North America, we are looking ahead to an exciting future filled with creativity, operational excellence, and meaningful growth under our LuxIgnite strategy.”
A retail veteran with over 25 years of experience across omni‑channel retail and institutional investment management, Culas joins the crystal jewelry maker from G-Star, where she served as CEO of North America at the British denim and apparel brand.
She began her career as a buyer and planner at Macy’s, Talbots, and Lord & Taylor before being promoted to strategy and brand management at Macy’s. Later on, the executive served as senior vendor manager at Amazon and as senior vice president of e‑commerce and strategy for Calvin Klein.
“Watching Swarovski’s brand repositioning and momentum in recent years has been inspiring,” said Culas, in response to her new appointment.
“I’m excited to join this exceptional team, collaborate across the business, and help strengthen our position while accelerating growth throughout North America. It’s a remarkable moment for the brand, and I’m thrilled to contribute to the journey ahead.”
There are stories you simply couldn’t invent. The tale of Bourrienne Paris X, a finalist for the DHL 2025 Award, is one of them. The French shirtmaker for men and women, co-founded in 2017—among others—by two women with entirely different backgrounds, is now entering a phase that balances dynamic expansion with a quest for longevity, projecting growth of over 50% in 2025 and an equally high target for 2026.
Cécile Faucheur is the label’s artistic director – Bourrienne Paris X
The designer behind the Bourrienne Paris X collections is Cécile Faucheur. A former fashion design teacher, pattern cutter and stylist, she is now head of design at the brand she co-founded. Her research at the Musée de la Chemiserie in Argenton-sur-Creuse captivated both her and Charles Beigbeder (who had just taken over the Hôtel de Bourrienne in Paris), prompting them to dedicate a men’s shirting brand to the building.
Historical details and diverse trajectories
For her part, Carine Beigbeder, co-founder and CEO of Bourrienne Paris X, draws on a background that spans finance and entrepreneurship. She previously managed a listed small-cap fund at Financière Arbevel. Her analysis of companies’ business plans and strategies spurred her to take on an operational role—one she now fulfils at Bourrienne Paris X. A luxury brand, or at least on the way to becoming one, the label currently employs around ten people and is attempting to compete with luxury giants such as Hermès in a niche that has, until now, been very narrow: the shirt.
Carine Beigbeder aims to bring longevity to Bourrienne Paris X – Bourrienne Paris X
“The idea was to build a brand inspired by historical details and the shirtmakers of yesteryear. We realised that the men’s wardrobe had lost much of the richness it once had.”
Today, the Bourrienne Paris X wardrobe is rooted in both French stylistic heritage and modern fashion, having opened up to womenswear as early as its second season. This now accounts for more than half of the house’s turnover.
In search of quality materials
“For women, the shirt was a vehicle of emancipation as womenswear became uncorseted and a little freer. It wasn’t necessarily at the same time, but that’s not the point,” explained Beigbeder.
Bourrienne Paris X now goes beyond the shirt and has launched men’s trousers on pre-order, cut from a very heavy Belgian linen, “as if coated with a fine layer of beeswax, which gives it a very new and very innovative look,” in the CEO’s words.
Details play an important role in Cécile Faucheur’s work – Bourrienne Paris X
At Bourrienne Paris X, the linen comes from Belgium, the poplin from Italy, the embroidered trims inspired by the Hôtel de Bourrienne are made by a century-old manufacturer in northern France, the pleating by a Breton artisan, and the mother-of-pearl is sourced from Australia. The shirts, meanwhile, are made in Portuguese and Romanian workshops, and the house is considering other production sites elsewhere in Eastern Europe.
Priority given to digital
Soon to mark its tenth anniversary, Bourrienne Paris X is now in its third year of profitability. Struck by the Covid-19 pandemic after a loss-making start, the brand managed to “keep its head above water,” thanks to digital, which provides sufficient data to respond to its customers’ tastes. The company has self-financed its digital investments and plans to double them in 2026 to accelerate growth, a priority given that its e-commerce site generates over 50% of its sales.
Bourrienne Paris X is largely inspired by the Hôtel de Bourrienne – Hôtel de Bourrienne
Bourrienne Paris X also invests in SEO, and in Google, Pinterest and Meta campaigns tailored to each of the countries where it is sold, namely the United States, England, Switzerland, Canada and Australia. Customs duties, included in the final price across the Atlantic, are no longer an issue for the brand, thanks to the purchasing power of its American customers.
International expansion
With 60% of its sales generated abroad, the label is stocked by a number of department stores, including Le Bon Marché’s men’s department in Paris, as well as Bongénie in Geneva and Zurich, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, and Isetan, Tomorrowland, United Arrows and Wako in Japan. This is why it is presenting its project to the DHL Prize jury this year.
The brand is a finalist for the DHL 2025 Award – Bourrienne Paris X
The brand remains based at 58 Rue d’Hauteville, opposite the Hôtel of the same name, in the 10th arrondissement of Paris. It’s not unusual for curious customers to be invited to discover the place that inspires the brand with each new collection. The brand’s desire to prioritise digital shapes its approach to welcoming investors, whose most valuable contribution would be their expertise.
For the time being, beyond the brand’s growth, Beigbeder is focused on a mission that is no less important: ensuring that Bourrienne Paris X stands the test of time. A “real challenge” consisting of remaining faithful to the house’s convictions and avoiding, as far as possible, the pull of passing trends.