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Iceberg offers up Milan-style Britpop

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Nicola Mira

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September 24, 2025

Italian label Iceberg has reinterpreted Britpop style with a Milanese touch for its Milan Fashion Week show. Zip-up bomber jackets, linen trench coats, fitted knitwear, creased tailored trousers and boldly flowing skirts were just some of the items in Iceberg’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection designed by Creative Director James Long, who drew his inspiration from Italian sensibility with an added British twist.

Iceberg, Spring/Summer 2026

“I love Iceberg’s freedom, the sportswear attitude characteristic of the label’s DNA, which is also part of my creative background. This is [Iceberg’s] seasonal mood: a sporty Italian state of mind blended with a British viewpoint. It’s sharp, it’s playful, it’s totally Iceberg,” said Long.

The collection’s knitwear was big on fitted cuts, in the long-sleeved polo shirts with contrasting collar, and the lightweight, body-cocooning knitted dresses with drop-stitch diagonals. A knitted dress was worn over draped layers of sheer chiffon. The miniskirts featured curled asymmetrical panels, and leather blazers were matched with back-slit pencil skirts.

Long’s new collection oozed character, for example the zip-up knitted top with yellow and green braided stripes over a jersey base. Long ribbed dresses featured woven V-necklines; striped shirts with sporty shoulder panels were layered over one another, while some trousers had double creases to create sharp volumes.

Long has been designing Iceberg’s collections for 10 years. “His British spirit blends well with our Italian taste. We always mix a little femininity with a sportswear touch. James is very good, he’s extremely consistent, collection after collection. It’s something you don’t often see, other than in labels with a very strong DNA. He’s so good because he puts himself at the label’s disposal,” said Paolo Gerani, CEO of Gilmar, Iceberg’s parent company, talking to FashionNetwork.com.

Iceberg, Spring/Summer 2026
Iceberg, Spring/Summer 2026

Gilmar reported revenue of €50 million for its last fiscal year, on par with the previous one, with Eastern Europe and the USA the main markets. “We have three new initiatives in the pipeline: one is a manufacturing unit for luxury labels. We’re working with GucciBurberry and Zegna. It’s a new business area we’re developing. Secondly, we’ve recently launched Iceberg Jeans, a more affordable line for a younger target group. And we’ve just started working with hospitality clients,” said Gerani.

“These are extremely tough times for the fashion industry as a whole, and for consumption in general. It’s like when an aircraft crashes, there are always multiple causes. This is what’s happening now: Wars, [weak] spending capacity, geopolitical uncertainty,” added Gerani. “They say ‘there’s an opportunity in every crisis’, but this crisis is major, it’s hard to see the opportunity. Rather than the markets, we need to understand how fashion might change once the ‘era of appearances’ is past,” he concluded.

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Several European countries, including France, call on Brussels to ‘step up’ efforts against Shein and similar platforms

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December 9, 2025

Led by France, eight European countries are calling on the European Commission and the member states to “step up” their “collective mobilisation” in the face of the “systemic risks” they say are posed by e-commerce platforms such as Shein, in a letter sent to Brussels on Monday.

AFP/Archives Jade Gao

“We call on the Commission to mobilise forcefully and relentlessly on the issue of unfair competition from third-country e-commerce platforms,” said the signatory states — Austria, Belgium, Spain, France, Greece, Italy, Hungary and Poland.

The Commission has already sent requests for information to Shein, a process that can lead to the opening of a formal investigation — as urged by Serge Papin, France’s Trade Minister and the initiator of this letter.

This investigation “must be complemented by provisional measures to mitigate the systemic risks that Shein and other platforms fail to control,” he said at Monday’s Competitiveness Council meeting in Brussels, also calling for “additional sanctions” in “proceedings already launched against Temu and AliExpress”.

The French government has already tried unsuccessfully to suspend Shein via an administrative procedure in early November, following the discovery of the sale of sex dolls with a childlike appearance. It has since referred this request for suspension to the courts, which will rule on 19 December.

However, in view of the possibility of another setback, France is pressing the European Commission to act, as tackling the systemic risks posed by major platforms falls within EU competence.

To protect consumers and businesses from “risks” such as the sale of illicit products or unfair commercial practices, the countries signing the letter are calling for the enforcement of existing laws, including the Digital Services Act (DSA).

They call for “coordinated efforts (…) to strengthen the checks carried out by customs and consumer protection authorities”.

In addition, they call on the European Commission to “play an active role” and to “review existing regulations and, if necessary, strengthen the obligations of online platforms”.

Finally, the signatories call for “the introduction of a European tax on low-value parcels”, a measure already planned at national level, notably by France.

In mid-November, EU finance ministers approved the abolition of the customs duty exemption on small imported parcels, which could enter into force as early as the first quarter of 2026.
 

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Max Mara takes its next resort collection to Shanghai

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December 9, 2025

Max Mara will stage its 2027 resort show in Shanghai in June next year, the house has revealed.
 

Max Mara – Courtesy

“The Max Mara Resort 2027 show will take place in Shanghai, China on Tuesday 16th June 2026,” the Italian luxury fashion house confirmed in a statement.
 
The decision marks the latest exotic destination for the house, which last year held its resort show in Royal Palace of Caserta, the Versailles of Italy, located near Naples.

Pre-show, the 300 guests sipped prosecco, as stars like Sharon StoneGwyneth Paltrow, Joey King and Alexa Chung admired the truly magnificent one kilometer-long series of cascades, interspersed with five monumental fountains, designed by architect, Luigi Vanvitelli.
 
Max Mara’s UK-born designer Ian Griffiths creating a beautiful collection he termed “pragmatic feminism,” that riffed on Italia cinema icons like Sophia Loren and Silvana Mangano. 
 
That event followed Max Mara’s resort 2025 show at the Palazzo Ducale in Venice, another Italian masterpiece rich in history. No word yet on the exact location of the upcoming Shanghai show.
 
Previous Max Mara resort collections have also been unveiled in Stockholm, Berlin and Lisbon.
 
Max Mara resort shows traditionally climax a series of major collections by important European brands each spring. Next year, Louis Vuitton and Dior will both stage their cruise shows in America, in New York and Los Angeles respectively.
 
 
 

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The personal shopper’s odyssey: From ally of the powerful, to dresser to the stars, to an accessible profession

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December 9, 2025

The personal shopper is a discreet professional. Their primary role is to help clients define and express their sartorial identity. They advise, analyse and orchestrate a style tailored to each person’s needs, body shape and goals.

In the past, garments were embellished by the fashion merchant to suit her client’s tastes. – DR

In its study “From Luxury to Well-Being: The Personal Stylist’s Journey through Fashion History”, online personal shopper company Lookiero examines how the role has undergone major transformations over the centuries. Initially seen as a luxury reserved for an elite, the profession has gradually been democratised, particularly thanks to digitisation.

Marie-Antoinette and Rose Bertin, a historic fashion duo

The idea of shaping one’s appearance with the help of an expert is not new. As early as the eighteenth century, in Europe’s sumptuous courts, clothing was a powerful marker of status and influence. The emblematic figure of Marie-Antoinette illustrates this perfectly: her ostentatious wardrobe, though provocative for its time, constituted a deliberate political and symbolic strategy.

Portrait of Rose Bertin, Marie-Antoinette's milliner
Portrait of Rose Bertin, Marie-Antoinette’s milliner – Jean-François Janinet via Wikimedia Commons


Her close collaboration with Rose Bertin, her trusted milliner, foreshadowed what would later become the role of the personal stylist. Through her ideas and execution, Bertin translated the queen’s aspirations into a strong, singular visual identity. This notion of “delegated taste” extended into the nineteenth century, when the London and Paris elites were already entrusting specialised assistants with the selection of their finery and accessories.

Hollywood, the fashion image factory

The early twentieth century marked a turning point with the emergence of the fashion press. Publications such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, with visionary editors like Diana Vreeland and Carmel Snow, helped forge an aspirational narrative around feminine aesthetics, positioning fashion as a lever for personal transformation and expression.

June 1920 Vogue cover by American artist Helen Dryden
June 1920 Vogue cover by American artist Helen Dryden – Condé Nast/Domaine Public

At the same time, the Hollywood film industry consolidated beauty archetypes through icons like Audrey Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich. Behind each star, on-set stylists, such as the legendary Edith Head, worked to sculpt these iconic images, professionalising the stylist’s function and gradually making it more visible behind the scenes.

A scientific approach and individual self-assertion

The 1970s saw clothing conceptualised more pragmatically, even as an instrument of persuasion. John T. Molloy’s influential “Dress for Success” (1975) revolutionised approaches to corporate dress. It set out a quasi-scientific methodology linking precise visual codes to professional success. His approach had considerable impact, laying the foundations of image consultancy as a structured discipline and demonstrating that image is a professional asset.

The personal shopper becomes part of Western department stores in the 1980s (Times Square, 1980. Image unmodified)
The personal shopper becomes part of Western department stores in the 1980s (Times Square, 1980. Image unmodified) – Gerd Eichmann/Wikimedia Commons

The 1980s were marked by aesthetic exuberance and a quest for individual self-assertion. Figures such as Ray Petri, creator of the “Buffalo” style, upended convention and fused urban and editorial aesthetics. It was also during this period that exclusive personal shopping services began to emerge in metropolises such as New York, London and Milan, catering to celebrities and executives. Luxury department stores then integrated these services as essential components of the VIP experience.

The media heyday of the personal shopper

The 1990s and 2000s were pivotal for the recognition of the personal shopper as a profession in its own right, thanks to popular programmes such as What Not to Wear, hosted by Stacy London and Clinton Kelly, which argued that style is a skill that can be learnt and mastered. Renowned stylists themselves rose to media prominence via their own reality shows (Rachel Zoe and “The Rachel Zoe Project“, for example), revealing the behind-the-scenes of their craft and popularising a new fashion lexicon.

Stacy London contributed to the rise of the personal shopper (Stacy London, 2008. Image unmodified)
Stacy London contributed to the rise of the personal shopper (Stacy London, 2008. Image unmodified) – Steve from New York City, Baby!, USA/Wikimedia Commons

At the same time, experts such as Nina García, then fashion director at Elle, published reference books that democratised stylistic knowledge, blending fashion culture, the psychology of image and practical advice.

A partly digitised profession

With the advent of the new millennium, the role of the personal stylist has adapted to a more diverse and, above all, more technological environment. Online personal shopper platforms incorporate algorithms and personalised questionnaires, enabling clothing selections to be made remotely, without the client having to leave home. Social networks have given stylists and consultants the opportunity to build their own brands and develop a community, freeing them from traditional media, once dominant in the field.

Today, personal shoppers can work on social networks such as Instagram
Today, personal shoppers can work on social networks such as Instagram – DR

The figure of the influencer often mingles with that of the personal shopper, with these professionals using their profiles to educate, inspire and guide stylistic transformations. Recent concepts such as the “capsule wardrobe” and ethical fashion have thus transformed the personal shopper into a veritable aesthetic coach, far beyond their initial function as a shopping adviser.

“The expansion of digital personal styling companies has democratised this service, making it accessible to a public previously far removed from what was perceived as a luxury reserved for the few,” said the company behind the study.

Today, the personal shopper market is being driven by digital players such as Lookiero, Outfittery and Clic and Fit, in addition to department store services at Le Bon Marché, Printemps, and Galeries Lafayette, as well as professionals active on social networks.

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