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US apparel and footwear deals surge to record $21B as brands react to tariff pressure

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Reuters

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September 18, 2025

U.S. President Donald Trump’s trade war is helping push U.S. clothing and footwear acquisitions to all-time highs this year, with some companies merging to help offset tariff costs while others go private to weather the next 3-1/2 years of his presidency outside the public market, dealmakers say.

Tariffs push Skechers, Foot Locker and others toward record-setting M&A – Reuters

Popular sneaker company Skechers announced a $9.42 billion deal in early May to go private, days after it withdrew its annual earnings forecasts and sent a letter — along with 75 other footwear companies — to Trump, stating that the tariffs were an “existential threat” to the industry.

Sneaker seller Foot Locker, which also signed the letter to Trump, in May accelerated its $2.4 billion sale to Dick’s Sporting Goods. While both deals were in the works for months, bankers and analysts said Trump’s tariffs are creating both chaos and opportunity for retailers and brands to explore tie-ups. This has driven dealmaking in the U.S. footwear and apparel sectors to roughly $21 billion in announced deals year-to-date.

With more than three months left in the year, that figure is already a record, according to LSEG data dating back to the 1970s — particularly surprising for an industry where valuations are not nearly as lofty as those in tech or financial services. The previous record for U.S. apparel and footwear M&A was last year’s $16.1 billion, and before that, 2021’s $15.6 billion, according to LSEG.

“Scale is more important in a tariff-rich environment because you can negotiate better terms across a larger base with many of your counterparties,” said Carmen Molinos, Morgan Stanley’s global co-head of consumer retail investment banking.

Morgan Stanley advised Canadian apparel maker Gildan Activewear on its acquisition last month of U.S. underwear maker Hanesbrands for $2.2 billion.

Both companies produce more in Central America and the Caribbean than in Asia, and primarily use U.S.-grown cotton, which provides them with some protection from tariffs. The combination insulates them more from fluctuating geopolitics, and Gildan was one company looking to get bigger amid the chaos.

“We think that we’re really well aligned to take advantage, actually, of this near-shoring opportunity,” Gildan’s CEO and co-founder Glenn Chamandy said on an August investor call about the deal.

Tariffs were a shock to the system that showed retailers just how quickly their businesses could get disrupted, highlighting the importance of scale, several bankers said.

“In moments of turmoil and change, those who are in a position of strength are looking to build up on those strengths, and if they see the right strategic fit, they’re taking advantage (and buying),” said JPMorgan’s Jonathan Dunlop, co-head of North America consumer and retail investment banking.

This year, JPMorgan advised 3G Capital on Skechers and brand management firm Authentic Brands Group’s $1.4 billion deal last month for Guess. Authentic also picked up Dockers from Levi Strauss, while another brand management firm, Bluestar Alliance, announced a deal to buy Dickies from VF Corp this week.

Brand management firms typically buy a brand’s IP and then license it to operating partners that handle manufacturing, design, and sales.

“The brand management companies have been some of the most prolific acquirers of both middle-market and a handful of multi-billion-dollar retail brands,” said David Shiffman, partner and head of consumer retail at Solomon Partners. The bank advised the special committee of Guess.

Navigating the uncertainty

Going private, as in Skechers’ case, is becoming an increasingly attractive option to navigate the uncertainty without the pressure of public quarterly reporting — especially if companies feel the public market is not valuing them appropriately.

Foot Locker, meanwhile, had been in discussions about a sale since Dick’s Executive Chairman Edward Stack first reached out to rival CEO Mary Dillon in January 2024.

Trump’s April 2 self-styled “Liberation Day,” when he announced sweeping new global tariffs, helped seal the deal earlier than expected, according to an SEC filing. Foot Locker said tariffs were causing the company’s stock to drop and that it was headed for a weaker-than-expected first-quarter earnings report — a development executives feared would further depress shares.

The board decided on May 10 to try to bring “negotiations to a close quickly,” it said in a securities filing. The next four days were a flurry of paperwork and legal meetings before the companies announced their deal — with two weeks to spare before reporting earnings.

Bankers advise watching for more tie-ups later this year as stronger retailers seek deals and struggling companies look for partners.

Private equity firm Bain Capital is trying to offload its stake in Canada Goose, and Lands’ End has received offers from brand management firms.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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Paris City Hall eyes BHV as its boss comes under fire

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December 17, 2025

With three days to go before a crucial deadline for BHV, Paris City Hall on Tuesday signalled its interest in the department store’s building, intensifying pressure on its boss, who is embroiled in the Shein controversy, as well as employees’ “uncertainty” about their future.

(AFP – Thibaud MORITZ)

“At a time when the situation at BHV is causing very serious concern for jobs and for the future of central Paris, I wanted the city to equip itself to act pre-emptively,” declared Socialist mayor Anne Hidalgo at the Paris Council, which is due to adopt a motion to this effect.

If the owner of BHV were to “vacate the premises”, the city would “explore all options to put itself in a position to acquire the building in order to safeguard commercial activity and jobs, while enabling the development of a mixed-use scheme also including social and affordable housing”, the executive’s motion states.

The Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), which has owned the Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV) retail business since 2023, also wants to buy the building from the Galeries Lafayette group, as the two parties are bound by a sale agreement that expires on Friday. However, SGM co-founder Frédéric Merlin caused an uproar in early October by announcing the opening, within BHV, of the first physical Shein store, an Asian ultra-fast-fashion brand accused of numerous ills such as unfair competition, and pollution.

“Investment funds”

The Banque des Territoires, an entity of the Caisse des Dépôts (CDC), has withdrawn from negotiations begun in June with SGM to help it purchase the building, citing “a breakdown of trust.”

Numerous brands including Dior, Sandro, and Guerlain have also left BHV in recent months, due to mounting unpaid bills or opposition to Shein.

All of which further complicates the task of Merlin, who is supposed to have completed his funding round on December 19.

“On that date, exclusivity lapses and we reserve the right to explore all the options open to us,” a Galeries Lafayette spokeswoman told AFP.

Refusing to see its name associated with Shein, the group has also terminated its contract with SGM covering seven provincial stores – rebranded BHV. For its part, SGM says the project is “moving forward” and “should be finalised in the coming days or weeks.”

Appearing before the National Assembly at the end of November, Merlin referred to “extremely precise discussions” with foreign, non-Chinese “investment funds.”

Against this backdrop, Nicolas Bonnet-Oulaldj, the deputy mayor responsible for commerce, told AFP that City Hall was ready to “step in” from Friday.

300 million euros

Given the amount involved – 300 million euros, according to him – the city would not buy on its own but via, for example, a semi-public company with private shareholders, says Bonnet-Oulaldj, who would like to make it “a showcase for brands made in Paris and in France, and for young designers.”

Building housing would require a modification of the PLU (local urban plan), as the plot is “classified as a department store.”

This “announcement adds further uncertainty to the future of BHV”, which directly employs some 750 staff, its inter-union alliance responded, asking “to be received as soon as possible by Paris City Hall.”

“The future of BHV depends not only on the finalisation of the acquisition of the building” but also “on the continuity of commercial operations”, it warned, expressing alarm at the “dire situation” of the store, where Shein sales are “nowhere near making up for the shortfall across the rest of the store.”

Hidalgo’s surprise announcement drew criticism from the right. Aurélien Véron (LR), spokesman for Rachida Dati’s group on the Paris Council, condemned it as an “improvised PR stunt”, three months ahead of the municipal elections.

Recently, Merlin set out his plans in LSA magazine, including a new payment system for suppliers. But “nobody believes it”, scoffed Guillaume Nusse, CEO of Clairefontaine-Rhodia, which pulled out of BHV over “unpaid bills and broken promises,” speaking to AFP.

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Flourishing South Korean menswear aims to strengthen international standing

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December 17, 2025

In 2025, South Korean fashion takes another step up on the global stage. In a sector where technological innovations are redefining production processes, South Korea stands out for its ability to turn these developments into drivers of growth and global appeal, according to a Spherical Insights study published in November.

South Korean menswear makes its mark internationally, seen here at Pitti Uomo – Pitti Uomo

According to the South Korean Ministry of Trade, Industry and Energy (MOTIE), almost $27 million is set to be invested in 2025 to strengthen the national textile value chain.

This policy forms part of a broader strategy that provides more than $19 billion in support for firms operating in industrial textiles, the creation of an Industrial Textile Alliance, and a certification centre for technical products. The aim is to lift digital transformation across the sector from 35% to 60% and increase South Korea’s share of the global markets for industrial and sustainable textiles from 2-3% to 10% by 2030.

A dynamic domestic market

These ambitions are underpinned by an already robust industry. In 2024, South Korea imported $12.37 billion worth of clothing, including $5.08 billion in menswear. Exports totalled almost $2 billion, of which $1.7 billion comprised synthetic textiles and crocheted fabrics. This momentum reinforces a domestic market characterised by diverse demand, rapid trend adoption and strong cultural influence.

South Korea invests in its textile industry
South Korea invests in its textile industry – Shutterstock

At the heart of this evolution lies the global rise of Korean menswear. Korean brands stand out for their attention to detail, mastery of cut and tailoring, and a strong appetite for exploring experimental materials, bold silhouettes and assertive colours. This stylistic approach, oscillating between minim­alism and exuberance, meets a growing demand for pieces capable of expressing individual identity, according to the study.

Exports to be developed

The trends for 2025 confirm this direction: oversized cuts, unique patterns, bright colours, sustainable materials, a fusion of traditional and contemporary styles, as well as layering, athleisure and gender-fluid fashion, are at the forefront. From oversized kimono-polos to two-tone pink shirts, the Korean aesthetic offers a balance of comfort, experimentation and sophistication.

Ader Error is one of the young South Korean brands flourishing internationally (here, its collaboration with Zara)
Ader Error is one of the young South Korean brands flourishing internationally (here, its collaboration with Zara) – Zara

This creative ecosystem is supported by a myriad of ‘flagship’ brands. Names already recognised worldwide such as Gentle Monster, Andersson Bell, Kusikohc, Hyein Seo and We11done fuel the country’s international aura through their distinct worlds, blending art, streetwear, craftsmanship and conceptual design. In 2025, other labels are taking centre stage: Ader Error and its deconstructivist streetwear, Wooyoungmi and its modern tailoring, ThisIsNeverThat and its distinctly Korean take on streetwear, as well as 87MM, Recto, Amomento, PushButton and Minjukim, whose gender-fluid offerings are gaining visibility.

By combining massive public investment, a capacity for innovation, cultural richness and creative power, South Korea is putting its fashion industry on an upward trajectory in 2025. It can be seen not only as an exporter of aesthetics, but also as a key player in technical and sustainable textiles, with the ambition of playing a central role in contemporary global fashion.

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Hugo Boss reveals new financing to turbocharge its updated strategy

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December 16, 2025

Hugo Boss recently unveiled an ambitious expansion of its growth plan and on Tuesday the German fashion giant said it has secured a revolving credit facility to “ensure the successful execution” of the ‘Claim 5 Touchdown’ growth plan.

Hugo Boss

The €600 million loan (which replaces another loan of the same amount) “was considerably oversubscribed and aims at providing the company with additional financial flexibility”. It’s also linked to the fulfilment of clearly defined sustainability criteria.

“This successful transaction highlights the strong trust our lenders place in our company and its long-term potential,” said CFO/COO Yves Müller.

The loan has a term of five years and includes two options to extend the term by one more year in each case, plus an option to increase the credit amount by up to €300 million. 

The company unveiled its strategy in early December, saying its next phase aims to “realign, simplify, and strengthen the business”. 

In the short term it’s sacrificing sales and profits as it said that currency-adjusted group sales and profits will both decline next year. But the refreshed strategy aims to “sharpen focus, discipline, and execution across the business”. 

It now clearly has the long-term financing to put its plan into operation with the option of even more money on the table if required.

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