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Hair dryers from drones and makeup mirrors from movie animators: How L’Oréal makes open innovation work 

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If you bring up innovation at the dinner table, the conversation will likely turn to tech: AI, iPhones, electric vehicles, digital things pioneered in Silicon Valley or Eastern China. 

Yet tech companies hardly have a monopoly on new ideas, and the success of Europe’s most dynamic businesses suggests the continent can still compete in the second quarter of the 21st century.  

One leading light is global beauty leader L’Oréal, which Fortune recently named Europe’s Most Innovative Company. Although famed for its $1.5bn (€1.3 billion) R&D budget, there is more to its success here than brute scale. As the company’s head of tech and open innovation, Guive Balooch tells us, it’s the way L’Oréal approaches it that makes the difference. 

“Beauty is at an inflection point, with so many areas of research, science and innovation that are beyond the core expertise of our industry, which up till now has been chemistry-based. Now tech is having major involvement, with beauty devices, diagnostics and digital services, but there are also [trends] like biotech and wellness.  

“All these require us to have an innovation strategy which is inside and outside,” says Balooch, a Californian who joined the French firm 18 years ago after a brief career in academic research. For most of that time, he’s been pioneering this ‘inside and outside’ approach of open innovation, which in practice means that alongside L’Oréal’s extensive pipeline of in-house lab formulations, it also partners with external companies to develop novel products and services that neither could create alone. 

Balooch points to L’Oréal’s Makeup Genius (now Beauty Genius), which in 2014 became the beauty industry’s first use of augmented reality to help consumers visualize how a product would look on their skin before buying. Its utility was obvious—digital makeup mirrors are now commonplace in beauty retail—but its origin was surprising. 

91 L’Oréal’s rank on Fortune 500 Europe

“We collaborated with startups in the animation industry, because they’re the best when it comes to augmented reality, using our use case as a way to inspire them,” Balooch says. L’Oréal later acquired one of these firms, ModiFace, in 2018, after previously investing. 

It’s a similar story for its AirLight Pro hair dryer, developed in partnership with a drone firm (Zuvi), and Cell BioPrint, a tabletop device that analyzes skin types in just five minutes for personalized skincare recommendations, which came from a collaboration with Korean medical diagnostics firm NanoEnTek. 

“We’re constantly looking, but most of these partners are very surprised when we go to them. NanoEnTek were doing [their work] for health, they hadn’t thought of beauty applications,” Balooch says. 

“Now tech is having major involvement, with beauty devices, diagnostics and digital services, but there are also [trends] like biotech and wellness.”Guive Balooch, L’Oréal’s head of tech and open innovation

A capacity for ideas 

How does L’Oréal come up with the ideas for innovations in the first place though, before seeking out third parties?  

On the one hand, Balooch says, the company has deep levels of marketing insight that define consumer problems that need solving. Sometimes this can come from analysis of social media data, but on other occasions it comes from firsthand experience.  

L’Oréal Cell Bioprint.

L’Oréal Groupe

Balooch points to a marketing staff member who saw that many people were struggling to mix hair colors themselves, and had the idea for a handheld device that would do it for them. They entered it into an internal competition that L’Oréal runs, where it gives a budget to the winner to develop their idea.     

“It came to my team, and seven years later, because it was a hard one to do, we launched Colorsonic,” he says.  

While ideas for innovation can emerge from anywhere, they more commonly originate from a dedicated central team that brings together diverse specialists to look at how trends in consumer behaviour and science might impact beauty.  

L’Oréal AirLight pro.

L’Oréal Groupe

“We think about future frontiers like longevity or the microbiome, and we have different people in the company come up with ideas. Then we have a pipeline meeting once a year, where we present these ideas to our different brands and divisions, and see the excitement behind them,” Balooch says, adding that there are many impromptu meetings throughout the year as well.  

A key element is team composition, as well as the involvement of senior management, all the way up to the CEO. “It’s the tension between the scientists and the creatives. We sit together… I’m a PhD in biology and I’m running the tech team. You wouldn’t see that in many companies,” Balooch says. 

Determining the return on investment can be difficult, given that it can take years for new products or services to come to fruition, but Balooch says there are targets around the tangible impact of innovations, for example how often partnerships turn into new products. Consumer insight also helps to determine whether customers feel their problems have actually been solved by the new innovation.  

“It’s the tension between the scientists and the creatives. We sit together… I’m a PhD in biology and I’m running the tech team. You wouldn’t see that in many companies”

Balooch

Altogether it’s a multi-faceted approach that has yielded results. L’Oréal’s bevy of new products and services have not only helped it extend its lead at the top of the highly competitive global beauty market, they’ve also earned it plaudits outside the sector, exemplified by CEO Nicolas Hieronimus’s 2024 keynote speech at tech show CES, a first for a beauty brand business. 

Europe as an innovation hub 

The level of innovation is not easy to replicate elsewhere—if it were, L’Oréal wouldn’t still have its lead—but it does still give ambitious European companies in other sectors something to aim for. 

And Europe is increasingly a great place to do innovation, and particularly open innovation, Balooch says. “There are so many great scientists and universities in Europe, a lot of intellectual property, but there’s also a lot of movement now with startups being created. I’ve lived in Europe for a long time, and I see that now much more than I’ve ever seen. You have a lot more support for startups. So it’s a great ecosystem for innovation.” 

The key, however, is for European companies to leverage this alongside the innovation taking place elsewhere. “The world is so much more interconnected today. There were so many more silos in science 20 years ago,” says Balooch, adding that combining different ways of approaching innovation can unlock fresh thinking, even within a company. 

“I send a lot of my French people to the U.S., a lot of my U.S. people to France. It’s incredible to see what happens when you do that.” 



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Activist investors are targeting female CEOs—and it’s costing Corporate America

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Good morning. When Victoria’s Secret reported stellar quarterly results last week, shares shot up 14% and likely gave Hillary Super some breathing room from the activist investors pushing the lingerie company to, among other things, consider whether the CEO of 16 months is up to the task of turning it around.

Of course, the potential of having to deal with an activist investor’s campaign goes with the territory of being a CEO, especially at a company that has been struggling. But Super’s saga is a reminder that women CEOs remain much likelier than their male counterparts to be targeted by activist investors.

This year, according to a report last week by the Conference Board, women have made up 8% of the CEOs in the Russell 3000 index but accounted for 15% of activist campaigns specifically targeting chief executives. Other women to have recently confronted activists: Cracker Barrel’s Julie Masino, who survived a campaign, and Vail Resorts’ Kirsten Lynch, who did not. 

What makes the Conference Board report especially frustrating is that it adds more proof points to an old, seemingly intractable trend.

In 2015, the New York Times’ DealBook pondered “Do Activist Investors Target Female CEOs?” while Fortune’s Pattie Sellers asked “Does Nelson Peltz have a problem with women?” In 2017, Harvard Law School found that women CEOs had almost a 50% higher probability than men of becoming the target of shareholder activism.

Why? One reason, the Conference Board theorized, is rooted in a stereotype that women are more cooperative. It’s also conceivable that the trend reflects the glass cliff phenomenon in which women often take the helm of companies in decline. But there is almost certainly some bias at play. The Conference Board research showed that women targeted by activists face the same odds of being canned whether they turn things around or not, while male CEOs are less likely to be ousted when results improve.

Some of the most prominent women chief executives ever have tangled with activists: PepsiCo’s ex-CEO Indra Nooyi, ex-Yahoo CEO Marissa Mayer, ex-DuPont CEO Ellen Kullman, ex-Mondelez CEO Irene Rosenfeld, ex-HP CEO Meg Whitman, and Mary Barra, still at GM. Michelle Gass, now thriving as CEO of Levi Strauss & Co, dealt with not one but three activist campaigns as she tried to fix Kohl’s.

Everyone should be held accountable when their company is failing or on a bad path. But it is worth wondering what this extra hurdle women CEOs face is costing us. Activist campaigns are bruising to the company but also to a CEO’s reputation. Does this mean boards might be more likely to avoid naming a woman to lower the odds of an activist campaign, or that fewer women will throw their hat in the ring?

Either way, it seems the phenomenon could needlessly be costing corporate America some much needed talent.—Phil Wahba

Contact CEO Daily via Diane Brady at diane.brady@fortune.com

Top news

Fed watch

All eyes will be on the Fed meeting today even though an interest rate cut is all but certain. Instead, investors will focus on Chair Jerome Powell’s tone and whether he characterizes Fed policy as “in a good place;” doing so would imply that a January cut is unlikely. 

Fed chair watch 

Meanwhile, President Donald Trump has narrowed down the candidates to replace Powell as Fed chair. The frontrunner is National Economic Council Director Kevin Hassett, but to clinch the job he’ll reportedly have to outshine three other contenders in the final round of interviews, suggesting he’s not a shoo-in for the job. 

Trump’s affordability tour

In his first in a series of speeches about “affordability,” President Trump mocked the term and insisted that Americans are doing better than ever. In reality, U.S. inflation is close to 3%, about where it was when Trump’s predecessor Joe Biden left office. 

Miami’s mayoral race

As Trump railed against affordability, Eileen Higgins, a Democrat, defeated Trump’s favored candidate in Miami’s mayoral race with a campaign focused in part on affordable housing. She’s the first Democrat to occupy Miami’s City Hall in three decades (and the first-ever woman), giving Democrats another jolt of momentum ahead of the 2026 midterms. 

Taiwan’s chip action

Taiwan is invoking a national security law to protect the trade secrets of its homegrown chipmaker TSMC and has used it to indict a TSMC supplier for allegedly letting a former employee steal details about TSMC’s top chips. 

Layoffs hit 1.1 million

Recruitment firm Challenger, Gray & Christmas has calculated the number of layoffs so far this year at 1.1 million, the sixth time since 1993 that layoffs have been that high. Technology was the hardest hit sector with 150,000 layoffs.

Americans ‘living on the financial edge’

Moody’s Analytics Chief Economist Mark Zandi told Fortunethat many Americans are “already living on the financial edge,” and that a drop in their spending could lead to a recession. If layoffs increase, then Zandi estimates that a “jobs recession” is certain. 

Sam Altman worries about ‘rate of change’

During an appearance on The Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon, OpenAI CEO Sam Altman admitted that he’s worried about “the rate of change that’s happening in the world right now.” He added that the “rate at which jobs will change over may be pretty fast,” with hopes that “much better jobs” will follow. 

The markets

S&P 500 futures were up 0.05% this morning. The last session closed down 0.09%. STOXX Europe 600 was down 0.19% in early trading. The U.K.’s FTSE 100 was up 0.14% in early trading. Japan’s Nikkei 225 was down 0.1%. China’s CSI 300 was down 0.14%. The South Korea KOSPI was down 0.21%. India’s NIFTY 50 is down 0.32%. Bitcoin is up at $93K.

Around the watercooler

New contract shows Palantir is working on a tech platform for another federal agency that works with ICE by Jessica Mathews

Jamie Dimon taps Jeff Bezos, Michael Dell, and Ford CEO Jim Farley to advise JPMorgan’s $1.5 trillion national security initiative by Nino Paoli

Trump’s $12 billion farmer bailout is a ‘Band-Aid on a bigger wound’ the American agriculture industry is still reeling from by Sasha Rogelberg

Exelon CEO: The ‘warning lights are on’ for U.S. electric grid resilience and utility prices amid AI demand surge by Jordan Blum

CEO Daily is compiled and edited by Joey Abrams, Claire Zillman and Lee Clifford.



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5 VCs sounds off on the AI question du jour

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The views seem to range from bubble-wary to bubble-dismissive. We hashed it all out over eggs and sausages at Fortune’s IRL Term Sheet Breakfast at Brainstorm AI in San Francisco yesterday. This is Amanda Gerut, Fortune’s West Coast news editor, pinch-hitting for my colleague Allie Garfinkle.

Allie hosted five VCs with funds ranging in size from $5 million to $25 billion and views varied across the panel. This group alone is collectively going to deploy anywhere from tens to hundreds of millions over the next decade into companies with AI as a backdrop and these investments will either prove spectacularly right or wrong.

Here’s a roll call:

Jenny Xiao, partner at Leonsis Capital and former researcher at OpenAI, came in with a nuanced take. There’s something of a bubble, but it’s “relatively contained” in the infrastructure layer with overinvestment primarily in data centers, GPUs and in large language model companies. But right now, there’s actually underinvestment in the application layer because there are so many ways AI can make an impact in various enterprises, Xiao said. 

Vanessa Larco, former partner at New Enterprise Associates (NEA) and co-founder of new venture firm Premise, has a contrarian view. “Everyone thinks enterprise is safer,” Larco said. “But I actually think the consumer might, this time around in the current environment, be what survives.” Larco’s reasoning is that if a consumer adopts your AI product, it’s because you’re giving them something faster, “radically cheaper, or much easier to use.” Once you’ve done that and built a brand, it’s very hard for people to quit you. 

Rob Biederman, managing partner at Asymmetric Capital Partners and chairman of Catalant Technologies, had a sobering view. “In every boom, 99% or 99.9% of companies fail, and one or two of them become Amazon or Google,” said Biederman, who had to dash off to catch a flight. Only companies that can systematically create value for customers, which most of them aren’t doing right now, will survive. 

Aaron Jacobson, partner at NEA, said the history of technological innovation “is always overhyped in the near term and underhyped in the long term, and that will be true of AI.” So at some point there will be a correction and there will be cycles of pain around valuation and funding, “but ultimately, in 10 years, we’re going to have a lot of really big, impactful companies.”

Daniel Dart, founder and general partner of Rock Yard Ventures, had the boldest counter to fears about a bubble. He sees a total addressable market we can’t yet imagine. People think self-driving Waymos will replace Ubers, but Dart sees elementary schools and elderly care centers with Waymos waiting out front and that proves to him we’re still in the early innings. 

“You’re really going to tell me there aren’t going to be any trillion-dollar companies in 2030 or 2034? No one here is going to take that bet,” said Dart. “There is going to be so much value creation that it’s like the birth of fire.”

See you tomorrow,

Amanda Gerut
Email:
Amanda.gerut@fortune.com
Submit a deal for the Term Sheet newsletter here.

Joey Abrams curated the deals section of today’s newsletter.Subscribe here.

Venture Deals

Saviynt, an El Segundo, Calif.-based identity security platform, raised $700 million in series B funding. KKR led the round and was joined by SixthStreetGrowth, TenEleven and existing investor CarrickCapitalPartners.

fal, a San Francisco-based AI-generated media platform, raised $140 million in Series D funding. Sequoia led the round and was joined by KleinerPerkins, NVentures, and AlkeonCapital.

Radial, a New York City-based network designed to help patients access advanced mental health treatments, raised $50 million in Series A funding. GeneralCatalyst led the round and was joined by SolariCapital, SLHealthCapital, FounderCollective, BoxGroup, ScrubCapital, and DiedevanLamoen.

Relation, a London, U.K.-based developer of medicines for immunology, metabolic, and bone diseases, raised $26 million in funding from NVentures, DCVC, and MagneticVentures.

Aradigm, a New York City-based benefits platform for cell and gene therapies, raised $20 million in Series A funding. FristCresseyVentures led the round and was joined by AndreessenHorowitz and MorganHealth

PrimeSecurity, a Tel Aviv, Israel and New York City-based AI-powered platform designed to detect and mitigate risks during software design, raised $20 million in Series A funding. ScaleVenturePartners led the round and was joined by FoundationCapital, FlybridgeVentures, and others.

Algori, a Madrid, Spain-based AI-powered shopper insights platform for the fast-moving consumer goods industry, raised €3.6 million ($4.2 million) in funding from RedBullVentures, Co-invest Capital, AttaPoll, and others.

EmpromptuAI, a San Francisco-based platform designed to help transition SaaS products into AI-native systems, raised $2 million in pre-seed funding. PrecursorVentures led the round and was joined by AlumniVentures, FoundersEdge, RogueWomenVC, and others.

Private Equity

AppDirect, backed by CDPQ, acquired vComSolutions, a San Ramon, Calif.-based IT management platform, at an enterprise valuation of more than $100 million.

JensenHughes, backed by GryphonInvestors, acquired SafetyManagementServices, a West Jordan, Utah-based fire and life safety company. Financial terms were not disclosed.

NewStateCapitalPartners acquired a majority stake in Harrell-Fish, a Bloomington, Ind.-based mechanical installation and maintenance services provider. Financial terms were not disclosed.

PestCoHoldings, a portfolio company of ThompsonStreetCapital, acquired SouthwestExterminating, a Houston, Texas-based pest control provider. Financial terms were not disclosed.

ProsperityPartners, backed by UnityPartners, acquired a majority stake in Farkouh, Furman & Faccio, a New York City-based provider of tax, attest, accounting and business consulting services. Financial terms were not disclosed.

SEVA acquired a minority stake in Pronto, a Lehi, Utah-based team communications platform designed for front–line employers and higher education institutions. Financial terms were not disclosed.

Exits

ArclineInvestmentManagement acquired Altronic, a Girard, Ohio-based supplier of ignition, control, and instrumentation systems for critical infrastructure power systems, from HOERBIGERGroup. Financial terms were not disclosed.

BerkshirePartners agreed to acquire UnitedFlowTechnologies, an Irving, Texas-based process and equipment solutions company for water and wastewater systems, from H.I.G.Capital. Financial terms were not disclosed.

BessemerInvestors acquired Xanitos, a Newtown Square, Penn.-based provider of environmental services, patient transport, patient observation, and linen services, from AngelesEquityPartners. Financial terms were not disclosed.

ShareRockPartners acquired a majority stake in AMAGTechnology, a Hawthorne, Calif.-based physical security solutions provider, from AlliedUniversal.



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Coupang CEO resigns over historic South Korean data breach

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Coupang chief executive officer Park Dae-jun resigned over his failure to prevent South Korea’s largest-ever data breach, which set off a regulatory and political backlash against the country’s dominant online retailer.

The company said in a statement on Wednesday that Park had stepped down over his role in the breach. It appointed Harold Rogers, chief administrative officer for the retailer’s U.S.-based parent company Coupang Inc., as interim head.

Park becomes the highest-profile casualty of a crisis that’s prompted a government investigation and disrupted the lives of millions across Korea. Nearly two-thirds of people in the country were affected by the breach, which granted unauthorized access to their shipping addresses and phone numbers.

Police raided Coupang’s headquarters this week in search of evidence that could help them determine how the breach took place as well as the identity of the hacker, Yonhap News reported, citing officials.

Officials have said the breach was carried out over five months in which the company’s cybersecurity systems were bypassed. Last week President Lee Jae Myung said it was “truly astonishing” that Coupang had failed to detect unauthorized access of its systems for such a long time.

Park squared off with lawmakers this month during an hours-long grilling. Responding to questions about media reports that claimed the attack had been carried out by a former employee who had since returned to China, he said a Chinese national who left the company and had been a “developer working on the authentication system” was involved.

The company faces a potential fine of up to 1 trillion won ($681 million) over the incident, lawmakers said.

Coupang founder Bom Kim has been summoned to appear before a parliamentary hearing on Dec. 17, with lawmakers warning of consequences if the billionaire fails to show.

Park’s departure adds fresh uncertainty to Coupang’s leadership less than seven months after the company revamped its internal structure to make him sole CEO of its Korean operations. In his new role, Rogers will focus on addressing customer concerns and stabilizing the company, Coupang said.

Join us at the Fortune Workplace Innovation Summit May 19–20, 2026, in Atlanta. The next era of workplace innovation is here—and the old playbook is being rewritten. At this exclusive, high-energy event, the world’s most innovative leaders will convene to explore how AI, humanity, and strategy converge to redefine, again, the future of work. Register now.



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