The legendary Italian couturier, who passed away on 4 September, leaves behind a highly coveted luxury empire. As succession questions multiply, the future of the Giorgio Armani brand now takes center stage.
“Giorgio Armani has always made independence of thought and action his trademark. Today, as in the past, the company reflects this spirit. His family and collaborators will continue the adventure of the group in respect and continuity of these values,” stated the company when announcing the death of the iconic designer. These clear words, however, open the door to many questions about the future of the empire left behind by “King Giorgio.”
For the first time in June 2021, Giorgio Armani appeared at the end of the show with his right-hand man Leo Dell’Orco (left). – Ph SGP
Between the company and his personal estate — including properties, artworks, real estate investments, shares, the Olimpia Milano basketball team, and the Armani/Silos museum — Giorgio Armani leaves behind a fortune estimated between €11 billion and €13 billion. With no direct heirs, he was free to designate how his estate would be managed. His last wishes will be revealed once his will is opened.
His immediate family includes his sister, Rosanna (86), and her son, Andrea Camerana (55), as well as his two nieces, Silvana (69) and Roberta (54), the daughters of his late brother, Sergio. All are members of the board of Giorgio Armani SpA, as is his longtime right-hand and managing consultant, Pantaleo “Leo” Dell‘Orco (72), who oversees the menswear collections. The designer has long referred to them as his intended successors.
The board also includes Yoox founder Federico Marchetti and Rothschild banker Irving Bellotti, who is also a board member of the Giorgio Armani Foundation, created in 2016 to ensure continuity of the company’s vision.
In a recent interview with How To Spend It, the Financial Times supplement, Giorgio Armani reiterated this succession plan: “My succession plan consists of gradually transferring the responsibilities I have always assumed to those closest to me, such as Leo Dell’Orco, to family members and to the entire team.” He added, “I would like the succession to be organic and not a moment of rupture.”
The founder controlled 99.9% of Giorgio Armani SpA, with the Giorgio Armani Foundation holding the remaining 0.1%. In 2024, the group employed nearly 8,700 people globally and posted €2.3 billion in revenue — a 6% drop from the previous year. Net profit also fell sharply, from €163 million in 2023 to €51.6 million. Europe accounts for 49% of revenue, with the Americas and Asia-Pacific each contributing 21%.
Armani meticulously prepared for this transition. The company’s revised articles of association were first approved in 2016 and finalized in September 2023. These statutes will take formal effect upon the opening of the succession. According to press reports at the time, the structure includes various share categories and voting rights, with a potential public listing allowed five years after the statutes take effect. Furthermore, 75% of shareholders must approve any mergers, spin-offs, amendments, or capital increases at an extraordinary general meeting.
During the transition, management may be handled by a select leadership committee. Creatively, Armani leaves behind a globally recognized design language and aesthetic. For now, it’s difficult to imagine another designer stepping into his shoes. The in-house design studio, led in part by Leo Dell’Orco, is expected to continue developing upcoming collections.
The responsibility of preserving the brand’s identity and value, estimated to be worth between €6 billion and €12 billion, depending on the analysts, will rest with the family and senior leadership. How this heritage is managed and evolved in the near future will shape Giorgio Armani SpA’s trajectory — and may invite interest from global luxury groups and investment funds.
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To coincide with Milan Fashion Week, the S|STYLE 2025- Denim Lab is setting up at Fondazione Sozzani for an edition devoted to the future of sustainable denim and water management in the textile industry. Led by the S|STYLE Sustainable Style platform, founded in 2020 by independent journalist and curator Giorgia Cantarini, this initiative forms part of an ongoing programme of research and experimentation into responsible innovations applied to contemporary fashion.
Designers brought together for the S|STYLE 2025 – Denim Lab project – Denim Lab
The exhibition, open to the public on September 27 and 28, features a site-specific art installation by Mariano Franzetti, crafted from recycled and regenerative denim. Conceived as an immersive experience, it brings fashion design, technological innovation and artistic expression into dialogue.
Water: a central issue in fashion sustainability
Developed in collaboration with Kering‘s Material Innovation Lab (MIL), the Denim Lab brings together a selection of young international designers invited to create a denim look using low-impact materials and processes. They benefit from technical support and access to textiles developed with innovative technologies aimed at significantly reducing water consumption, chemical use, and the carbon footprint of denim production.
This edition places water at its core, an essential issue for a fabric whose production has traditionally demanded substantial volumes of water, from cotton cultivation through to dyeing and finishing. Denim therefore serves as an emblematic testing ground, both familiar and closely associated with the environmental challenges facing the fashion industry.
Outfit created for the Denim Lab by designer Gisèle Ntsama, one of the participants – Maison Gisèle
The fabrics were developed by PureDenim Srl, a specialist in low-impact dyeing techniques, while treatments and finishes were applied by Tonello Srl, a recognised leader in sustainable washing and finishing technologies. The selected designers, from Europe, Asia, and Africa, each offer a distinctive interpretation of denim, blending formal exploration, textile innovation and reflection on the contemporary uses of clothing.
Next has won the bidding race to take over the Russell & Bromley premium footwear business, ending almost a century-and-a-half of family ownership.
Russell & Bromley
Working with bidding partner and stock clearance specialist Retail Realisation, it’s set to takeover the 147-year-old retailer under a pre-pack administration deal.
Crucially, it means 33 of the company’s standalone stores/outlets and nine concessions (many of them in Fenwicks branches) are likely to eventually close.
The extent of the challenges Russell & Bromley faced can be seen from the fact that this is only a £2.5 million cash deal. Next is also paying £1.3 million for some of the retailer’s current stock with Retail Realisation handling the clearance of the rest.
Assuming the deal gets court approval on Wednesday afternoon, Next will own the intellectual property and just three of the stores.
Those stores are in London’s Chelsea and Mayfair, as well as the Bluewater shopping centre in Kent. Interestingly, that Bluewater store is just a stone’s throw away from the former House of Fraser branch that this year will reopen as a Next megastore.
The remaining stores and concessions will continue to trade for “as long as [they] can” as Interpath’s Will Wright and Chris Pole “assess options for them”. Russell & Bromley currently has around 440 employees.
A source close to another bidder, Auralis, told The Times it was disappointing that its offer, which aimed to safeguard jobs and stores, wasn’t given greater priority by those running the sale.
Russell & Bromley CEO Andrew Bromley called the sale decision a “difficult” one but insisted it’s “the best route to secure the future for the brand… we would like to thank our staff, suppliers, partners and customers for their support throughout our history”.
So what are Next’s plans now. That’s not clear. There had been a lot of attention focused on its likelihood of closing the store chain in the run-up to the sale but on Wednesday, Next said that it will “build on the legacy” of the business and “provide the operational stability and expertise to support Russell & Bromley’s next chapter”.
Next had also been reported to be eyeing a similar deal for LK Bennett, but Sky News reported that it has stepped away from this.
It remains one of the most acquisitive retailers on the UK high street, however, and in recent years has bought brands such as Cath Kidston, Joules, FatFace, Made and Seraphine. It also has deals to handle other key brands in the UK market such as Gap, Victoria’s Secret and Laura Ashley.
Global asset management firm GoldenTree will buy a chunk of a $1 billion bankruptcy financing for luxury retailer Saks Global, Bloomberg News reported on Tuesday, citing people familiar with the matter.
A Neiman Marcus store, part of the Saks business – Neiman Marcus
GoldenTree, which is founded by billionaire Steve Tananbaum, has committed to buy a roughly $200 million portion of the so-called debtor-in-possession financing, according to the report.
Saks Global and GoldenTree did not immediately respond to Reuters requests for comment.
The high-end US department store conglomerate filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on January 13, after a debt-laden takeover.