Giorgio Armani, who passed away peacefully among his family in Milan on Thursday, will be remembered as one of the greatest single Italian designers and the figure who spearheaded the remarkable renaissance of Italian fashion in the post-war era.
Giorgio Armani, celebrated for his timeless elegance and humanity. – Gruppo Armani
It’s hard to overstate the importance of Armani in fashion and design, especially following his passing, and his remarkable name recognition wherever one travels. In fact, if one were to ask a passing stranger to name a fashion designer, Giorgio Armani would be the most likely choice.
Those of us who had the honor to spend time with Armani – from Milan to New York, from Shanghai to Tokyo – were always struck by the easy grace with which he handled fame. When meeting Giorgio, Gulf sheiks placed their hands on their hearts; in Hong Kong he stopped traffic when strolling to lunch; in Milan shows movie stars and Oscar winners greeted him backstage with the deepest of bows. Once, when walking with him near the Spanish Steps in Rome, a passerby stopped him and insisted on kissing his hand. Which he gently accepted, before turning to me in a Shakespearean aside: “You know, I didn’t pay her ahead of time to do that!”
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week, presenting his Spring/Summer 2023 collection, September 22, 2022. – Reuters
Though he became enormously wealthy and famous, he wore his success with levity and grace. He spoke to young assistants, security guards or total strangers with the same avuncular tone with which he addressed heads of state. Though courtly, precise and ironic in manner, Armani could have a volcanic temper, but only when he felt his own exacting standards were not being met.
Giorgio Armani with a kitten, reflecting his love for animals and his famously softer side. “Yes, I love cats,” he told ELLE Decor. – DR
Today, it’s impossible to travel to any major city and not find some of Armani’s influence. His various elegant collections – Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Armani Exchange – along with his network of Armani cafés, Armani/Dolci and Armani/Casa stores all herald the blend of refined minimalism and Oriental fantasy that was his signature style.
And in an era when just about every designer sold control of their brand – Dior, Chanel, Valentino and Versace, to name a few – Armani left this life as the sole owner of his massive empire. Last year alone, Armani scored a net profit of €398 million on a turnover of €2.3 billion.
Armani Café in Dubai, one of the brand’s many lifestyle ventures alongside Armani/Dolci and Armani/Casa. – DR
Although he left his hometown of Piacenza in the early 1950s to study medicine in Milan, after completing two years of compulsory military service, he shifted his career and became a window dresser in Italy’s largest department store, La Rinascente. That early training in display and editing remained with him all his life, as I noticed on a journey with Armani to open his first hotel inside the world’s tallest building – the Burj Khalifa in Dubai in 2006. During a morning visit to an Armani café in a mall, Giorgio spent 45 minutes altering lighting, repositioning chairs, straightening waiters’ shirts and folding napkins just so.
Like a true aesthete, he devoted his life to creation, and only when he was 100 percent satisfied would he consider socializing. On another occasion, I spent a day following Giorgio when he staged his first “Armani One Night Only” in London, an outlandishly cool and huge bash to support the fight against AIDS in Africa and Bono’s charity RED. Staged inside Earl’s Court, done up like an Ibiza nightclub, with Leonardo DiCaprio, Alicia Keys, Lady Helen Taylor and Minnie Driver in the audience; Elle MacPherson and James Franco serving as MCs. After several runway shows, Beyoncé performed “Crazy in Love”; Bryan Ferry sang “Slave to Love”; and Alicia Keys and Andrea Bocelli serenaded Giorgio. But what most sticks in my mind was the night before, when Giorgio was meticulously editing the collections, and his communications director quietly reminded him he was expected at a dinner in his honor with Tony Blair. Whereupon Armani harrumphed: “Qui, sto lavorando! Here, I am working!” dismissing the very idea he might leave a job early to meet a prime minister. Forget that.
An autodidact, Armani received his first lessons in making clothes from his mother and would later name both of his fabulous superyachts Mariù in her honor. After spending a decade working his way up in fashion, Giorgio—encouraged by his partner Sergio Galeotti—first opened a design office, then launched his own brand in 1975, reportedly financed by the sale of his Volkswagen.
Giorgio Armani reviewing designs in his Milan studio during the 1970s. – DR
By October 1975, Giorgio staged his first menswear collection to immediate acclaim. It was a pivotal moment when a group of exceptionally talented Italian designers—Gianni Versace, Gianfranco Ferré, Valentino Garavani, among others—began utilizing Italy’s exceptional artisans and clothing manufacturing to challenge France’s long-time leadership in fashion. A movement where Armani was the de facto leader among some brilliant peers, often nicknamed Il Re della Moda or Imperatore Giorgio. Generally, Giorgio remained very publicly respectful of his peers, though he certainly did not like any of their clothes being mixed with his—except for the high‑octane Versace, whose dazzle seemed to offend him.
And whereas practically every designer on the planet hired an independent stylist to help create their campaigns, Armani never did, to avoid any digression from his strictest fashion vision. Giorgio’s style was always a balancing act – the perfect silhouettes of his menswear combined with the opulent delicacy of his couture.
Enamored, like most Italians, of movies, it was cinema that catapulted Armani into global prominence when he created the wardrobe of Richard Gere in the 1980 film “American Gigolo.” The famed scene of Gere tossing beautiful Armani shirts onto a bed before deciding on a suitable seductive outfit expressed a new era of modern elegance and the suddenly vital role of fashion in contemporary living. It also linked Giorgio indelibly to cinema, where he would go on to costume over 100 films—from “The Untouchables” and “The Dark Knight Rises” to “Ocean’s Thirteen” and “Inglourious Basterds.” Since “American Gigolo,” no Armani front row was complete without half a dozen movie stars joining football greats, sporting superstars and cultural icons at his shows.
Giorgio Armani fitting a gown backstage, demonstrating his meticulous attention to detail. – DR
Two decades ago in Cannes, he kindly invited me to supper on Mariù I, a beautiful boat with a black hull, pale wood paneling, and muted non‑colors—the diametric opposite of a typical superyacht. Then, when a fresh group of about a dozen people appeared after an evening screening—including the likes of Kevin Klein and Sheryl Crow—Giorgio had his three handsome chefs whip up a large bowl of simple but delicious pasta made with just olives, garlic, pepperoncino and Parmesan. Before insisting on personally serving everyone himself, something I never saw any other designer do.
For many years, he staged most of his shows in his own private show‑space in his headquarters on central Via Borgonuova, which is where I first met him as the young, freshly appointed editor‑in‑chief of Vogue Hommes in 1995. Having spent five years in Italy, I was able to converse with him in Italian. Armani spoke excellent French, though, like many pre‑war‑born Italians, his English was limited.
Giorgio Armani with FashionNetwork.com Global Editor-in-Chief Godfrey Deeny at Milan Moda Uomo, January 2025. – DR
I proudly showed off my first edition, which included a wonderful shoot by Albert Watson titled “Mafia Crooner.” Featuring a dashing Latin couple, the man looking sensational in a classic cement‑hued Armani double‑breasted jacket inside a café in Little Italy. Giorgio seemed suitably impressed and shook my hand firmly as he exited our meeting, before later finding me at the door of his palazzo, evidently irate. “Have you seen this!?” he said, showing off the shot of the crooner in his jacket. “Somebody has put an appalling Vivienne Westwood tie on my jacket! Allora?” he bristled. To which I responded, “Sorry, Signor Armani, but you know how difficult it is to control stylists.” To which he replied, placated: “Finally, an editor who knows what he is talking about!”
Later shows were staged in South Milan inside Armani/Teatro, designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, inside a former Nestlé chocolate factory. It is where Armani’s coffin will be set up in a funeral chamber all this weekend, open to the public. It was also the site of his last show in June, when he was too frail to take a bow, and his right‑hand man, Leo Dell’Orco, took the bow. A faithful partner to the end, who is expected to continue to guide the house with Armani’s surviving sister, nieces, and nephews.
Even into his 90s, Giorgio never slowed down. He staged another One Night Only last November with a star‑packed show inside the New York Armory, where Orlando Bloom, Liev Schreiber and Pamela Anderson posed proudly.
Giorgio Armani with models at his “One Night Only” show in New York—an emblem of his vision bridging haute couture and immersive spectacle. – Courtesy
The day before, Giorgio had unveiled yet another project— a brand‑new $400 million complex named Armani Residences on Madison Avenue. It includes three floors of retail space, two restaurants and more than a score of apartments. Giorgio reserved the penthouse for himself. In fact, many days in his final decade were spent building Armani hotels and residences, with a series of luxury towers due to open in the coming years.
Armani Residences Diriyah – DR
Giorgio’s day last November began with a personal appearance at his boutique in Bergdorf Goodman, signing copies of his book Per Amore. Outside, ten windows of the world’s most luxurious department store were customized with looks from Armani men’s and women’s collections. An elegant celebration of his historic ties with Bergdorf—the first American store to carry the Giorgio Armani men’s collection back in the 1980s. All told, yet another remarkable two days by the Italian maestro, the designer who never seemed to sleep in the city that never sleeps.
Giorgio Armani with models after a show, celebrating the effortless elegance that defined his collections. – DR
At the time, I asked Giorgio what he hoped his legacy would be, and he responded: “The legacy I hope to leave is one of dedication, respect and an eye for reality. Success in fashion comes from observing people, understanding their needs and creating clothes that meet those needs. At the heart of it, I focus on making beautiful garments. Fashion is a serious but deeply rewarding profession.”
Summing up his life—the greatest brand builder in Italian design, the hardest‑working designer I ever met, and a gentleman who left this earth a far better place than he found it.
In a very real sense, Armani became far more important than being an iconic fashion designer. The greater Italian public, and indeed an international audience, treated Giorgio like the president of Italian style and taste. His longevity and his devotion to his art made him a hallowed figure. In future years, when people come to write fresh histories of Italy, Armani will be ranked with Galileo, Leonardo Da Vinci, Michelangelo and Christopher Columbus—and deservedly so. Beyond his fashion empire, hundreds of stores, Armani Casa skyscrapers and a massive perfume business, his aesthetic has influenced the past half‑century more than any other living designer. In an era of style, he was the Doge of design.
The Imperatore has left us, and we will not see his like again.
On the runway, Armani’s vision endures, even as the Imperatore takes his final bow. – DR
French cosmetics giant L’Oreal said on Wednesday it will set up a beauty tech hub in the south Indian city of Hyderabad with an initial investment of over 35 billion rupees ($383.4 million).
L’Oréal
The hub aims to be a global base for AI-driven beauty innovation, create 2,000 tech jobs through 2030, and speed up the rollout of advanced AI beauty solutions, the company said in a statement.
Nicolas Hieronimus, L’Oreal’s CEO, and the state government of Telangana formalized the partnership at the World Economic Forum, Davos.
Telangana has rapidly emerged as a key investment and technology hub in southern India.
Bilateral trade between India and France stood at $15 billion in 2024, and Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi and French President Emmanuel Macron have been forging warmer ties.
The two sides have also been working to recast their tax treaty since 2024 to modernize it by adapting global standards on tax transparency, Reuters reported in December.
Swarovski on Tuesday announced the appointment of Sindhu Culas to the role of president, general manager, North America at the Austrian jewelry maker.
Sindhu Culas – Courtesy
Based in the luxury firm’s New York City office, Culas will be responsible for “maximizing the Swarovski physical and digital presence and overall brand affinity in the U.S.,” according to a press release.
“We are thrilled to welcome Sindhu to Swarovski. Her vast leadership experience and passion for the brand make her an exceptional addition to our team,” said Kolja Kiofsky, chief commercial officer, Swarovski.
“With Sindhu guiding our next chapter in North America, we are looking ahead to an exciting future filled with creativity, operational excellence, and meaningful growth under our LuxIgnite strategy.”
A retail veteran with over 25 years of experience across omni‑channel retail and institutional investment management, Culas joins the crystal jewelry maker from G-Star, where she served as CEO of North America at the British denim and apparel brand.
She began her career as a buyer and planner at Macy’s, Talbots, and Lord & Taylor before being promoted to strategy and brand management at Macy’s. Later on, the executive served as senior vendor manager at Amazon and as senior vice president of e‑commerce and strategy for Calvin Klein.
“Watching Swarovski’s brand repositioning and momentum in recent years has been inspiring,” said Culas, in response to her new appointment.
“I’m excited to join this exceptional team, collaborate across the business, and help strengthen our position while accelerating growth throughout North America. It’s a remarkable moment for the brand, and I’m thrilled to contribute to the journey ahead.”
There are stories you simply couldn’t invent. The tale of Bourrienne Paris X, a finalist for the DHL 2025 Award, is one of them. The French shirtmaker for men and women, co-founded in 2017—among others—by two women with entirely different backgrounds, is now entering a phase that balances dynamic expansion with a quest for longevity, projecting growth of over 50% in 2025 and an equally high target for 2026.
Cécile Faucheur is the label’s artistic director – Bourrienne Paris X
The designer behind the Bourrienne Paris X collections is Cécile Faucheur. A former fashion design teacher, pattern cutter and stylist, she is now head of design at the brand she co-founded. Her research at the Musée de la Chemiserie in Argenton-sur-Creuse captivated both her and Charles Beigbeder (who had just taken over the Hôtel de Bourrienne in Paris), prompting them to dedicate a men’s shirting brand to the building.
Historical details and diverse trajectories
For her part, Carine Beigbeder, co-founder and CEO of Bourrienne Paris X, draws on a background that spans finance and entrepreneurship. She previously managed a listed small-cap fund at Financière Arbevel. Her analysis of companies’ business plans and strategies spurred her to take on an operational role—one she now fulfils at Bourrienne Paris X. A luxury brand, or at least on the way to becoming one, the label currently employs around ten people and is attempting to compete with luxury giants such as Hermès in a niche that has, until now, been very narrow: the shirt.
Carine Beigbeder aims to bring longevity to Bourrienne Paris X – Bourrienne Paris X
“The idea was to build a brand inspired by historical details and the shirtmakers of yesteryear. We realised that the men’s wardrobe had lost much of the richness it once had.”
Today, the Bourrienne Paris X wardrobe is rooted in both French stylistic heritage and modern fashion, having opened up to womenswear as early as its second season. This now accounts for more than half of the house’s turnover.
In search of quality materials
“For women, the shirt was a vehicle of emancipation as womenswear became uncorseted and a little freer. It wasn’t necessarily at the same time, but that’s not the point,” explained Beigbeder.
Bourrienne Paris X now goes beyond the shirt and has launched men’s trousers on pre-order, cut from a very heavy Belgian linen, “as if coated with a fine layer of beeswax, which gives it a very new and very innovative look,” in the CEO’s words.
Details play an important role in Cécile Faucheur’s work – Bourrienne Paris X
At Bourrienne Paris X, the linen comes from Belgium, the poplin from Italy, the embroidered trims inspired by the Hôtel de Bourrienne are made by a century-old manufacturer in northern France, the pleating by a Breton artisan, and the mother-of-pearl is sourced from Australia. The shirts, meanwhile, are made in Portuguese and Romanian workshops, and the house is considering other production sites elsewhere in Eastern Europe.
Priority given to digital
Soon to mark its tenth anniversary, Bourrienne Paris X is now in its third year of profitability. Struck by the Covid-19 pandemic after a loss-making start, the brand managed to “keep its head above water,” thanks to digital, which provides sufficient data to respond to its customers’ tastes. The company has self-financed its digital investments and plans to double them in 2026 to accelerate growth, a priority given that its e-commerce site generates over 50% of its sales.
Bourrienne Paris X is largely inspired by the Hôtel de Bourrienne – Hôtel de Bourrienne
Bourrienne Paris X also invests in SEO, and in Google, Pinterest and Meta campaigns tailored to each of the countries where it is sold, namely the United States, England, Switzerland, Canada and Australia. Customs duties, included in the final price across the Atlantic, are no longer an issue for the brand, thanks to the purchasing power of its American customers.
International expansion
With 60% of its sales generated abroad, the label is stocked by a number of department stores, including Le Bon Marché’s men’s department in Paris, as well as Bongénie in Geneva and Zurich, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, and Isetan, Tomorrowland, United Arrows and Wako in Japan. This is why it is presenting its project to the DHL Prize jury this year.
The brand is a finalist for the DHL 2025 Award – Bourrienne Paris X
The brand remains based at 58 Rue d’Hauteville, opposite the Hôtel of the same name, in the 10th arrondissement of Paris. It’s not unusual for curious customers to be invited to discover the place that inspires the brand with each new collection. The brand’s desire to prioritise digital shapes its approach to welcoming investors, whose most valuable contribution would be their expertise.
For the time being, beyond the brand’s growth, Beigbeder is focused on a mission that is no less important: ensuring that Bourrienne Paris X stands the test of time. A “real challenge” consisting of remaining faithful to the house’s convictions and avoiding, as far as possible, the pull of passing trends.