LuxExperience is continuing to work on the integration of its legacy Mytheresa business and its acquired Yoox Net-A-Porter (YNAP) operations into its group set-up and has announced “significant efficiency and structural improvements”, meaning around 700 job cuts at the latter.
Net-A-Porter’s latest campaign – Net-A-Porter
The company said the planned measures are part of its overall transformation plan after acquiring YNAP in April. The changes will be achieved by “simplifying the business and using shared infrastructure where appropriate”. And it added that Net-A-Porter, Mr Porter, Yoox and The Outnet should “regain growth and financial strength after years of decline”.
The plan is “to serve customers better and more efficiently” so “select operational and administrative structures” within the luxury segment (that is, Net-a-Porter and Mr porter), as well as the off-price segment (Yoox and The Outnet) in Italy, the UK, the US and other jurisdictions “will be consolidated”.
That will mean a partial reduction of the workforce across several sites that “may affect approximately 700 employees”.
But that doesn’t mean a mass movement of HQs. The company added that it “remains fully committed to Italy and the United Kingdom as the respective headquarters of its newly acquired store brands”. Italy will remain a long-term operational hub for LuxExperience and the HQ for Yoox, while Net-A-Porter, Mr Porter and The Outnet will still have their HQ in the UK. “The teams in the different brands are integral drivers for returning to growth and financial strength after years of decline,” it explained.
The Germany-based business believes the moves “are a critical part of the overall transformation plan for YNAP that also includes significant investments in future growth through more customer-centricity, marketing spend as well as increased buying budgets, which aim to further solidify LuxExperience as the undisputed leader in global, digital luxury”.
The news is perhaps unsurprising given that acquisitions usually lead to efficiencies and consolidation, and given the lack of profitability at YNAP for some time. That was a situation that first led its former owner, luxury giant Richemont, into what became a long-term process to find a buyer. At one point it had struck a deal with another major name in the luxury e-tail space, Farfetch, to take it on. But that business’s own implosion and subsequent takeover by Coupang derailed that plan.
The takeover of Farfetch by Coupang, the acquisition by Frasers Group and subsequent closure of Matchesfashion, and the purchase of YNAP by Mytheresa’s parent and then its evolution into the LuxExperience Group underlined the problems faced by luxury e-tailers this century.
But it also left LuxExperience in a powerful position. It now owns three of the key luxury brands e-tail brand covering in-season retail, as well as two of those for the high-end off-price segment.
The former MYT Netherlands Parent BV changed its name to LuxExperience in January this year to reflect that status. Since then it has announced a raft of leadership changes at its acquired brands.
The challenges it faces have been very clear this year as the luxury slump has continued but in May, it reported Q3 results for the legacy Mytheresa operation with sales and adjusted EBITDA continuing to improve, although it acknowledged the “tough market environment”.
The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.