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How Oslo Runway placed Norwegian fashion on the global stage

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 1, 2025

You don’t have to be a big corporation to be relevant in the fashion industry. That is the mantra that seems to guide Oslo Runway since its birth a decade ago. The catwalk — with the Norwegian capital and its rich heritage, culture, and nature as a backdrop — celebrated its first 10 years of existence from August 25 to 30. During these days, and through a comprehensive and carefully planned program, the city showcased the talent and creativity of its brands, both established and emerging, utilising a hybrid format that combined fashion shows, presentations, pop-ups, and talks.

Pia Tjelta showcased her designs with a fashion show-performance at the Nationaltheatret in Oslo. – Ole Martin Halvorsen, Oslo Runway

“Oslo Runway started 10 years ago with a bold vision: to showcase Norwegian fashion on a professional level and do something we would be proud of on an international level. And that’s pretty bold,” said Elin O. Carlsen, CEO of Oslo Runway, at the opening ceremony. “Now that we have travelled to different fashion cities, we see that people want to come, join our culture, and see our designers. This platform promotes creativity, craftsmanship, and collaboration.”

She also pointed to the creative ecosystem now surrounding the event, with stylists, photographers, consultants, and creators reinforcing the industry.

“In terms of growth, the numbers speak for themselves. From 2015 to date, the total turnover of our top fashion and lifestyle brands has increased by 1,100%. This proves the vision, resilience, and entrepreneurial drive behind this industry,” added Elin Kathrine Saunes, president and CEO of Norwegian Fashion Hub. “The government’s recent export initiative confirms that Norwegian fashion is a value-generating industry.”

Oslo boasts fashion, nature and cultural heritage

Under a bright sun that seemed to conspire with the organisation to seduce both national and international attendees — in its tenth edition, the runway show invited international press, buyers, and distributors from key markets for Norwegian fashion, such as Japan — Oslo Runway kicked off its anniversary on Monday, August 25, with an opening ceremony aboard a Brim Explorer ship and in collaboration with the jewelry firm Josephine Studio. Sailing through the Oslo Fjord, the runway made a statement of intent: “This is who we are, and this is what we can offer to the fashion world.”

A moment from the Pearl Octopuss.y fashion show at the Munch Museum in Oslo.
A moment from the Pearl Octopuss.y fashion show at the Munch Museum in Oslo. – Oslo Runway

The second highlight of the first day was a fashion show on Monday afternoon at the Munch Museum in Oslo. The imposing building, inaugurated in 2021 and designed by Spanish architect Juan Herreros, began construction in 2015. It houses more than 26,000 works by the Norwegian expressionist painter Edvard Munch, author of “The Scream” and “The Sun.”

The latter was precisely the inspiration for the “Solen” collection by Pearl Octopuss, which includes jewellery, accessories, handbags, and statement garments such as blazers. “The Sun,” and the aptly named Monumental Room that hosts it, served as the backdrop for the collection’s spring-summer 2026 debut, accompanied by live electronic music performed by Gundelach.

Hoops, oversized pearls, orange-toned pieces, and accents that echoed a sunset — including fringe detailing on bags, buttons, and belts — created a fusion of visuals and sound, resonating with the massive artworks in the room and the musical ambience.

Later that evening, Pearl Octopuss.y was awarded the Oslo Runway Tribute Award at the catwalk’s anniversary dinner. This prize recognises exceptional contributions to Norwegian fashion and has previously gone to Livid (2021), Tom Wood (2022), Envelope1973 (2023), and Norwegian Rain (2024).

Long live Nordic minimalism

If the first day of Oslo Runway focused on Norway’s breathtaking nature and the legacy of one of its most famous artists, the second day brought a more intimate mood.

Envelope1976, minimalism by flag
Envelope1976, minimalism by flag – Ole Martin Halvorsen, Oslo Runway

Envelope1976 showcased its designs in a stark minimalist space, where stools were practically the only décor — aside from the morning sun illuminating the clean tailoring. The brand’s sharp, earth-toned silhouettes spoke for themselves.

“We are minimalists with a distinctive touch. With this collection, we aimed to return to our roots and revive some of our signature pieces. Tailoring is essential to our brand, and we added new colours to designs that have been with us for several seasons,” explained Celine Aagaard, co-founder of Envelope1976 with Pia Nordskaug.

Satin, leather, and shearling featured heavily in the lineup, alongside reversible designs and layered looks. “For all the suits, we use Italian wool. We produce in Istanbul with the same supplier we’ve worked with since the beginning. Some fabrics are made there, while others are made in Italy. The shearling comes from China, the leather from India, and our swimsuits — though not shown today — are made in Portugal,” Aagaard said.

At its headquarters, with the hum of sewing machines setting the tone, ESP presented its fifteenth collection, combining spring-summer 2026 garments made from deadstock with a capsule of locally recycled wool.

A moment from the ESP fashion show.
A moment from the ESP fashion show. – Stephanie Sikkes, Oslo Runway

“Through NF&TA’s ‘Innovating Norwegian Wool’ project, and in collaboration with Norsk Tekstilgjenvinning, Selbu Spinneri, and Gudbrandsdalen Uldvarefabrikk, ESP developed the first Norwegian recycled wool textile with a fully local value chain. Partnering with Manufacture Oslo, these textiles are turned into garments that combine innovation and tradition,” read the show notes. The result was a gender-inclusive selection of jackets, coats, and outerwear featuring deep lapels and waist ties, all in navy, grey, and brown — styled with football boots, including cleats.

In the inner courtyard of its offices, surrounded by red-brick buildings with an industrial past, Camila Pihl debuted her spring collection. Suede jackets, denim staples, and cotton shirts anchored the lineup. Founded in 2018 by its namesake entrepreneur, the brand now operates four stores in Oslo, Bergen, and Trondheim, and is sold in 125 multi-brand outlets, 25 of which are located abroad. It expects to surpass NOK 100 million (€8.5 million) in sales by 2025.

Christian Aks — guided by the concept of “sculpted simplicity for the modern closet” — presented “Tide,” inspired by the stillness and strength of the sea. Soft and structured pieces in silk organza, cotton, and textured sheepskin captured that duality.

Christian Aks fashion show in Oslo
Christian Aks fashion show in Oslo – Elisabeth Heier, Oslo Runway

In a more urban key, F5 Collections (also featuring a live musical performance) added a more urban feel, showcasing printed pieces — including Vichy and Klein blue — that broke from the prevailing minimalist aesthetic. A live musical performance rounded out the show.

Cohmé Atelier and Wilhelmina, selected for the Oslo Runway NEXT program, took to the catwalk with glittering designs. Cohmé embraced 1930s cabaret glam with sequins and vintage silhouettes. Pia Tjelta closed the evening with a performance at the Nationaltheatret, revealing a collection of romantic satin gowns, embroidered lace dresses, and velvet pinstripe suits, all set against the grandeur of the ceiling paintings.

From timeless basics to knitwear as national pride

On day three, the official fashion shows wrapped with a celebration of refined wardrobe staples. Julie Josephine presented her famously crisp basics in a gallery, accompanied by shirts and tees worn by clients for over nine years — still in perfect condition.

Kari Traa transformed Ekebergparken into her catwalk.
Kari Traa transformed Ekebergparken into her catwalk. – Stephanie Sikkes, Oslo Runway

In Ekebergparken — a hilltop park filled with sculptures — Kari Traa brought bold colour to a grey morning. The sportswear brand founded by the Olympic skier incorporated shades of pink into its performance layers, leggings, down jackets, and heavy wool sweaters. Wool and knitwear are national icons in Norway, and Traa offered a modern, functional twist.

Ella & Il returned to clean lines and natural textures for its first show at Oslo Runway. The spring-summer 2026 presentation included resortwear, fringe details, sage knits, and linen pieces.
Woodling also focused on knitwear, showcasing alpaca wool and 3D knits in butter-yellow — a shade still trending for spring — across long dresses, mini skirts, and sheer tops.

Woodling's delicate knitted designs,
Woodling’s delicate knitted designs, – Oslo Runway

Wilhelmina’s deconstructed pieces and Hartlino’s 2026 eveningwear followed. Mads Søreide, now design lead at Hartlino and founder of Cohmé, created polished silhouettes: sequined gowns, strapless styles, and men’s velvet blazers paired with satin shirts.

The official presentations closed with a dinner hosted by O.A.D. outside the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art. The knitwear brand, rooted in Devold of Norway (est. 1853), honours its textile legacy with Norwegian wool, yak, cashmere, and mohair. While production is centred in Italy, the brand is expanding its made-in-Norway range, including hats and mittens.

“We’ve focused on consolidating in Norway. We distribute through 25 stores nationally and sell online across Europe. Now, we’re expanding abroad — entering stores in Denmark and Switzerland. With 45% growth this year, we’re building a future-proof company,” said CEO Marianne Strand.

The knitwear, a national emblem, is O.A.D.'s raison d'être.
The knitwear, a national emblem, is O.A.D.’s raison d’être. – Stephanie Sikkes, Oslo Runway

A decade that has also transformed the city

The 10 years since Oslo Runway launched have also seen the city undergo significant evolution. In addition to architectural landmarks like the Munch Museum, Oslo’s Promenaden district has emerged as a retail hub — stretching from Akersgata to Karl Johans Gate.

“Over the past decade, we’ve focused on building not just a district, but a fashion community in Oslo,” said Anette Lund, CEO and portfolio director of Promenaden Oslo. “At first, international brands asked where Oslo even was. That’s no longer the case.”

She continued, “Bringing luxury brands here took years of planning, dialogue, and persistence. It’s changed how Oslo is perceived globally. Today, it’s one of the most visible new fashion cities — and that visibility fuels growth and recognition for Norwegian fashion.”

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Diversity, equity and inclusion under strain across global retail sector: IADS

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January 20, 2026

Long regarded as a core pillar of corporate strategy, DE&I (diversity, equity and inclusion) is now going through a turbulent period. Under intensifying political, economic and social pressures, it has reached a pivotal moment. The sixth White Paper from the International Association of Department Stores (IADS) examines whether inclusion remains a fundamental priority or risks being pushed into the background.

Inclusion in the United States is under strain amid pressure from the presidential administration – Shutterstock

The 2025 edition looks at DE&I at a time when commitments are being put to the test. The year 2024 saw heightened scrutiny of inclusion programmes. In January 2025, the signing of a controversial US presidential executive order entitled “Ending Radical and Costly Government Diversity, Equity and Inclusion Programs and Preferences” prompted immediate reactions from major North American companies fearing legal reprisals, according to IADS.

The myth that inclusion penalises businesses

The 2025 report draws on a set of concrete observations from an analysis of the practices of leading retailers worldwide. It highlights four dimensions in which DE&I, when embedded in day-to-day operations, serves as a measurable driver of performance. Firstly, organisations with diverse leadership teams report stronger decision-making and greater strategic agility.

Secondly, companies that value inclusion see improved employee retention, thereby reducing turnover costs in a historically volatile sector. Thirdly, inclusion fosters more effective communication within teams, which reduces operational errors and strengthens cohesion.

DE&I is a legacy of civil rights struggles

Finally, retailers note that some of the most relevant ideas come directly from frontline teams who, thanks to their diverse experiences, contribute significantly to innovation and to adapting to varied customer expectations. These findings show that DE&I is not only an ethical value, but also a concrete driver of organisational effectiveness.

Despite conservative rhetoric, inclusion and diversity are an asset for companies, says IADS
Despite conservative rhetoric, inclusion and diversity are an asset for companies, says IADS – Shutterstock

The report also notes that DE&I forms part of a longer legacy, rooted in the civil rights movement and in the historic demands of retail frontline teams for fair treatment and safer working conditions. However, contemporary expectations, often unclear or poorly defined, have given rise to what some stakeholders describe as “DE&I fatigue”, fuelled by doubts about the sincerity of commitments rather than by clear strategic thinking.

Inclusion, between intention and ‘strategic advantage’

The White Paper further points out that DE&I cannot be one-size-fits-all: priorities vary by region — from gender parity, ethnicity and disability to socio-economic background and national integration — and expectations regarding language and transparency differ considerably. For international groups, tailoring local approaches while upholding universal principles of equity is a major operational challenge.

Finally, IADS sets out the conditions that enable inclusion to take root for the long term: listening to employees, setting clear behavioural expectations, fostering collaboration between stores and headquarters, and ensuring fairness in recruitment and development processes. Beyond intention, these capabilities help retailers turn DE&I into a tangible strategic advantage, strengthening resilience, engagement and relevance in a constantly evolving environment.

Founded in 1928, IADS coordinates exchanges between department stores worldwide and publishes an annual White Paper on a key industry issue. Previous publications have focused on the Covid-19 pandemic, digital transformation, sustainability, retail media and the role of middle management.

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Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Lululemon founder Chip Wilson seeks Advent’s ouster in proxy fight, Semafor reports

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Reuters

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January 20, 2026

Lululemon founder Chip Wilson is trying to excise private equity firm Advent from the apparel maker’s board as part of an ongoing proxy fight, Semafor reported on Monday, citing people familiar with ⁠the matter.

Lululemon

Wilson had launched a proxy fight in late December by nominating three independent ⁠directors to the company’s board.

Wilson is one of Lululemon’s largest independent shareholders, with a 4.27% stake as of ‍December 2025, ‌according to data compiled by LSEG.

While Wilson has ⁠said he does ‌not want a board seat, he is making ‌it clear that he will not consider any settlement with Lululemon unless two legacy directors, including chair David Mussafer, resign, Semafor reported.

The yogawear maker ‍founder’s frustrations have been compounded by Advent’s spotty record in the consumer space, according to the Semafor report.

Lululemon ‌also ⁠faces ​activist pressure from Elliott Management, which took ⁠a $1 ​billion stake in the company earlier in December and has been working closely with former Ralph Lauren ​executive Jane Nielsen for a potential CEO role.

Reuters could not immediately verify ⁠the report. Lululemon and Advent ⁠did not immediately respond to requests for comment. 

© Thomson Reuters 2026 All rights reserved.



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Farewells, fresh faces at Men’s Fashion Week in Paris

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AFP

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January 20, 2026

Men’s Fashion Week kicks off in Paris on Tuesday and will feature six days of trend-setting catwalk shows, a farewell at Hermes and tributes to late Italian fashion icon Valentino.

Hermes – Spring-Summer2026 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The first day of the Fall/Winter 2026 edition will be dominated by the latest mega-production from Louis Vuitton‘s celebrity menswear designer Pharrell Williams, as well as mourning for one of the industry’s biggest names.

Williams will unveil his collection at the brand’s glitzy gallery space in western Paris under the shadow of the death of Italy’s Valentino Garavani, who passed away Monday at the age of 93.

The giant in the world of haute couture died at his home in Rome, just four months after the death of fellow Italian great Giorgio Armani.

In a sign of industrial renewal, however, French designer Jeanne Friot will take her first steps on the daunting Paris calendar on Monday, with the young stylist telling AFP it was a “quite an unusual joy and stress” to take part.

French designer Veronique Nichanian will meanwhile present her last collection for Hermes on Saturday after 37 years at the helm.

The 71-year-old Parisian — one of the few women designing in menswear — will leave behind a brand in tremendous financial shape with an image of timeless, refined masculinity that she has helped shape.

Her successor, London designer Grace Wales Bonner, who is of English and Jamaican heritage, represents a generational and stylistic shift for the classic family-run French house.

Fresh faces

Many fashionistas will be casting an eye on the Christian Louboutin show on day two where Jaden Smith — son of US rapper-actor Will Smith — will present his debut collection.

The model and musician, 27, was unveiled as the creative director of the famed French brand last September by founder Louboutin, who appears to be preparing to hand over the reins to the Gen Z trendsetter.

Dior Men – Spring-Summer2026 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The choice is seen as a bold bet on relatively inexperienced youth by the veteran maker of red-soled stilettos, whose ready-to-wear menswear and accessories are estimated by analysts to account for about a quarter of his sales.

On Wednesday, much-hyped Dior designer Jonathan Anderson will unveil his second Homme collection, having made his debut in June last year with a widely praised show of unisex styling.

But the 41-year-old’s womenswear collection in September didn’t convince everyone, and some observers expect him to put a more decisive mark on Dior and cement the new identity he’s begun sketching out.

“There’s a lot of anticipation,” Alice Feillard, men’s buying director at Paris department store Galeries Lafayette, told AFP.

The luxury fashion industry has undergone a wave of changes over the last 12 months at a time of weak international growth following the bumper buying frenzy of the post-Covid period.

Slowing demand from China, US tariffs on imports and uncertainty about the global economy have all weighed on sales of European brands.

Kenzo house

New faces such as Anderson, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Demna at Gucci or Sarah Burton at Givenchy represent the elevation of a new stable of couturiers who look set to dominate the major houses over the next decade.

Elsewhere over the week, Japanese brands from Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake to Mihara Yasuhiro will be out in force.

LVMH-owned Kenzo, will hold a presentation instead of a runway show on Tuesday inside the vast Parisian house of late founder Kenzo Takada in the French capital’s trendy 11th district.

The four-storey modernist building, which features a Japanese garden, will host a day-long gathering of design, food and music curated by chief creative Nigo.

US designer Willy Chavarria, who is one of a handful unafraid to express political views, also returns for his third season in Paris and might have something to say about Donald Trump‘s presidency on Friday.

Copyright © 2026 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.



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