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Tapestry takes an $855 million write-down on Kate Spade—and casts serious doubt on its strategy to turn around underperforming brands

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When Tapestry announced two years ago it was buying Michael Kors owner Capri Holdings in a deal regulators ultimately scuttled, the fashion company argued that the tech and supply-chain infrastructure it had built for its Coach brand would allow it to turn around underperforming brands more quickly.

It turns out Tapestry can’t even turn around an acquired brand it has owned for years, well before that Capri news was announced in 2023. Tapestry said on Thursday it had taken a $855 million write-down on Kate Spade largely because of a decline in both current and future expected cash flows along with investments the company is making.

Yet the company keeps claiming Kate Spade, where sales fell 10% last year, can flourish with just a bit more work. But Tapestry bought Kate Spade, beloved for its quirky handbags and looks, eight years ago for $2.4 billion, and has little to show for it so far. In the fiscal year ended in June, Kate Spade sales came in at almost $1.2 billion, a touch lower than where they were the year the company was acquired, and well below their apex three years ago when they neared $1.5 billion.

“We know from work that we’ve done that there’s great demand for the Kate Spade brand, we just frankly haven’t executed very well over the last several years. But as we said here today, we’re smarter from a brand-building capability standpoint,” said Scott Roe, Tapestry’s chief financial officer, to Barron’s on Thursday.

In 2017, Coach Inc., which then also owned the small high-end shoe brand Stuart Weitzman, renamed itself Tapestry in hopes of becoming the American equivalent to European fashion conglomerates LVMH and Kering, albeit one focused on upscale brands rather than outright luxury. Those ambitions were behind its planned $8.5 billion megadeal to buy Capri, which owns Versace and Jimmy Choo. (Capri recently sold Versace to Prada, though that deal has not closed yet.)

Still, the Federal Trade Commission blocked the Tapestry-Capri deal last year, saying it harmed competition in the handbag segment. Tapestry’s rationale was that shared resources (big tech systems, clout with vendors and store landlords) would help optimize a brand’s cost structure and lift an underperforming but still viable label. But given its struggles to finally make the Kate Spade acquisition pay off, it’s hard to see how Tapestry would have managed to turn around another three brands in need of repair.

Still, it’s not all bad news. Tapestry has overseen an astonishing rehabilitation of the Coach brand in recent years, reminiscent of Ralph Lauren’s big comeback.

A decade ago, the classic New York leather goods brand, beloved for its high-quality stylish bags, was hurting after years of being overextended in search of growth and ultimately cheapening itself. Since then, Coach has staged a massive comeback by selling much more through its own stores and less at department stores, and arming itself with tons of data about its shoppers and their habits to reduce product misfires and know what they are gravitating toward more quickly and accurately.

One of the ironies of Tapestry’s Kate Spade woes is that in 2017, it had said buying Kate Spade would help it win over younger consumers. Today, Gen Z and younger millennial shoppers are all over Coach and represent about 60% of the 1.5 million new shoppers Tapestry won in the past year. GlobalData managing director Neil Saunders says Coach has won them over through its data but also because Coach “has become more contemporary and on trend.”

And with the shriveling of Kate Spade (and excluding Stuart Weitzman, which Tapestry recently unloaded), Coach represents nearly 80% of Tapestry sales. So Tapestry is really just Coach plus a struggling brand one-fifth its size, rather than a portfolio. Last year, Coach sales rose 10% and propelled Tapestry’s shares, nearly doubling them. (They fell on Thursday in large part because of a $160 million hit from tariffs.)

Introducing the 2025 Fortune Global 500, the definitive ranking of the biggest companies in the world. Explore this year’s list.



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If you want your employees back in the office, try feeding them, says Gensler executive

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What do both employees and employers really want in a workplace of the future? It’s a topic that came up last week in my conversations with CEOs, designers, and thought leaders at Fortune’s Brainstorm Design conference in Macau.

If you ask Ray Yuen, office managing director at the design and architecture firm Gensler, the answer is food. A recent Gensler survey asked employees to rank the office spaces that were most important to them. The top three? The office food hall, cafe, or lounge. 

“It’s really about food and wellness,” Yuen said onstage. “They didn’t even mention anything about work. Everybody just picked the stuff that we really want as human beings.”

It’s worth listening to these human desires as companies try to bring people back into the office, Yuen said. He described a project he worked on recently for a large company’s new Tokyo headquarters, where 50% of the company’s employees were working remotely and he was tasked with finding a way to bring them back. One of the biggest successes was a lo-fi vinyl listening bar, where no tech or talking was allowed, he said. 

Flexibility is also key. In the past, Yuen said he used to heavily design about 80% of a company’s headquarters with built in furniture and modules like cubicles, and leave about 20% as “flexible space.” Now, the balance is more 50/50, so companies can transform their office spaces easily when needs arise, such as an office happy hour, he says.

“We’re no longer just designing workplaces. We’re actually designing experiences. Because [employees may] think, ‘Well, if I can work anywhere, why do I want to go to work? I can do it at home,’” Yuen said. “You’ve really got to make the campus or the workplace be more than work, and that’s the fun part of it.”

Kristin Stoller
Editorial Director, Fortune Live Media
kristin.stoller@fortune.com

Around the Table

A round-up of the most important HR headlines.

Employers used to frown on social media posting during work hours, but now employees at companies including Starbucks and Delta are being asked to post on-the-job social media content. Wall Street Journal

The U.S. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission, or EEOC, is reportedly blocking or stalling claims brought by transgender workers. Bloomberg

As automated systems come under fire for potentially allowing discriminating hiring practices, many states are expanding bans on discrimination to AI. Washington Post

Watercooler

Everything you need to know from Fortune.

Meeting shakeup. Instagram’s CEO is calling employees back to the office five days a week, but is canceling all unnecessary recurring meetings —Marco Quiroz-Gutierrez

Earnings report. In the U.K., Gen Z college graduates are earning 30% less than Millennials did at the same stage of life. —Preston Fore

Trade troubles. As Gen Zers opt for trade schools and blue-collar jobs, there is one sector they are hesitant to get involved in: manufacturing. —Emma Burleigh 



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McKinsey’s CFO: Why finance chiefs shouldn’t hit pause on AI right now

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Good morning. For CFOs, using the words “uncertainty” and “unprecedented” has become second nature this year.

“There’s a bit of fatigue from uncertainty right now,” Yuval Atsmon, CFO of McKinsey, told me when we met in Washington, D.C., to discuss how finance chiefs navigated 2025 and the impact of AI. He often hears some executives joke, “Can we just have something that has a precedent?”

Following President Donald Trump’s so-called Liberation Day, Atsmon said significant uncertainty emerged around the new administration’s economic and geopolitical agenda. “If I look at the peak of uncertainty, what I was focused on as a CFO was: What are the things that I should be doing that would be helpful in any scenario?” Atsmon said. “The worst thing is inaction,” he added. Acting on what you can control builds resilience, he said.

Key questions included: How can you improve liquidity and operational efficiency? What costs can be delayed or eliminated? Which investments are essential, and which can be stopped?

While uncertainty often drives defensive moves, Atsmon noted the importance of reviewing long-standing strategies and seizing competitive opportunities. “I wouldn’t recommend anyone stop making AI investments at this moment,” he said, adding that some actions are still driven by inertia, not strategy.

“The other thing that I think is different in 2025 than it was over the last 100 years is that so much of resource allocation now happens through the technology function of the company,” Atsmon said.

Yet there’s still uncertainty about AI’s readiness to impact the bottom line. McKinsey already uses AI to handle up to 30% of its tasks—such as faster research and better summarization—but “you can’t really do a full strategic analysis yet,” he said. Timelines vary widely by company.

Atsmon pointed to new McKinsey research estimating profound changes in how work is done by 2030. People will need to reorganize how they create value or take on different activities. For CFOs, curiosity about technology is useful, but the core responsibility is enabling the organization to respond at the right pace—neither moving so fast that it creates financial strain nor so slowly that competitiveness erodes, he said.

For most organizations, he believes AI efforts should be “80% on productivity for growth and 20% on productivity for efficiency.” The biggest opportunity, he said, lies not in reducing headcount but in unlocking better uses of time.

Ultimately, leveraging AI requires a willingness to reimagine how work gets done. It is a cross-functional C-suite effort. “More than ever,” Atsmon said, “managing uncertainty—economic, geopolitical, and technological—comes down to planning for the best, but also preparing for the worst.”

SherylEstrada
sheryl.estrada@fortune.com

Leaderboard

Jennifer DiRico was appointed EVP and CFO of PTC (Nasdaq: PTC), effective Jan. 1. DiRico succeeds Kristian Talvitie, who will continue to serve as CFO through Dec. 31. DiRico’s experience ranges from large-scale enterprise software organizations to high-growth technology companies. She currently serves as CFO of Commvault, a cyber resilience company. Before Commvault, DiRico spent several years at Toast in finance and operations leadership roles.

David Hastings was appointed CFO of Trevi Therapeutics, Inc. (Nasdaq: TRVI), a clinical-stage biopharmaceutical company, effective Jan. 6. Hastings brings over 25 years of financial leadership experience. Most recently, he was CFO at Arbutus from June 2018 until March 2025. Previously, he was SVP and CFO of Unilife from 2015 until 2017.  Prior to that, Hastings spent the majority of his career as CFO and EVP at Incyte. 

Big Deal

“Global Economic Outlook Q1 2026: AI Tailwinds Boost Otherwise Weak Growth” is an economic research report published by S&P Global Ratings. Some key takeaways from the report include that global growth is holding up better than expected into 2026, helped by AI-driven investment and exports, even as underlying demand stays relatively soft. Also, forecasts have been revised up in many countries, but policy uncertainty, labor markets, bond yields, and the risk that AI underdelivers on earnings all remain key threats to the outlook.

Going deeper

KPMG’s latest “M&A trends in financial services” report is a review of M&A in Q3 for each of the banking, capital markets, and insurance sectors, with the latest data and top deals, as well as an outlook for M&A.

“Momentum from the prior quarter, driven by regulatory rollback and private equity interest, persisted in the third quarter of 2025,” according to the report. “However, inflation, credit quality concerns, trade policy uncertainty, and geopolitical tensions posed significant challenges, requiring adept navigation.”

Overheard

“In the days after the acquisition was completed, I was asked during a media interview if good luck was a factor in bringing together these two tech industry stalwarts. Replace good luck with good timing, and the answer is a resounding, ‘Yes!'”

Amit Walia, the CEO of Informatica, a Salesforce company, writes in a Fortune opinion piecetitled, “Why the timing was right for Salesforce’s $8 billion acquisition of Informatica—and for the opportunities ahead.”



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Fortune Brainstorm AI San Francisco starts today, with Databricks, OpenAI, Cursor, and more on deck

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It’s been a crazy few weeks in AI.

Granted, it feels like it’s always been a crazy few weeks in AI. But this cycle has been especially notable: Reports that Sam Altman has declared a “code red” around improving ChatGPT have made waves, while Databricks is reportedly in talks to raise at a jaw-dropping $134 billion valuation. Anthropic is reportedly looking at a real-life IPO, and everyone’s always watching for news from perhaps the biggest ascent of the year: Cursor, the AI coding juggernaut that’s now valued at more than $29 billion. 

And today, Brainstorm AI starts, and so many of these key players will be with us live in San Francisco, including Databricks CEO Ali Ghodsi, OpenAI COO Brad Lightcap, Cursor CEO Michael Truell, San Francisco Mayor Daniel Lurie, Google Cloud CEO Thomas Kurian, and Rivian CEO RJ Scaringe, plus some starpower from Joseph Gordon-Levitt and Natasha Lyonne. 

If you’re attending the conference, come find me! I’ll realistically be the one running around in a bright pantsuit. And if you can’t make it, we’ll be livestreaming the show, too – tune in here.

See you soon,

See you tomorrow,

Allie Garfinkle
X:
@agarfinks
Email:alexandra.garfinkle@fortune.com
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Joey Abrams curated the deals section of today’s newsletter.Subscribe here.

Venture Deals

Antithesis, a Tysons Corner, Va.-based platform designed to validate that software works before it launches, raised $105 million in Series A funding. JaneStreet led the round and was joined by AmplifyVenturePartners, SparkCapital, and others.

ParadigmHealth, a Columbus, Ohio-based clinical research platform, raised $78 million in Series B funding. ARCHVenturePartners led the round and was joined by DFJGrowth and existing investors.

Oxzo, a Santiago, Chile-based provider of oxygenation services for aquaculture, raised $25 million in funding from S2GInvestments.

Quanta, a San Francisco-based accounting platform, raised $15 million in Series A funding. Accel led the round and was joined by OperatorCollective, NavalRavikant, DesignerFund, and others.

LizzyAI, a New York City-based AI-powered talent interviewing company, raised $5 million in seed funding. NEA led the round and was joined by Speedinvest and ZeroPrimeVentures

PvX, a Singapore-based provider of user-acquisition financing for gaming companies, raised $4.7 million in a seed extension from Z Venture Capital, DrivebyDraftKings, and existing investors.

Corma, a Paris, France-based developer of a copilot for AI teams, raised €3.5 million ($4.1 million) in seed funding. XTXVentures led the round and was joined by TuesdayCapital, KimaVentures, 50Partners, OlympeCapital, and angel investors.

Private Equity

NITEOProducts, a portfolio company of HighlanderPartners, acquired Folexport, a Tualatin, Ore.-based manufacturer of carpet, fabric, and hard surface cleaning products. Financial terms were not disclosed.



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