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Milan women’s fashion week reveals a packed lineup for September

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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August 1, 2025

As the Spring/Summer 2026 women’s ready-to-wear season shifts from Paris to Milan, anticipation is building for one of the most exciting fashion weeks in recent years. The Milan calendar, running from September 23 to 29, is packed with momentum: 12 new names are joining the schedule, balancing out 11 absences and injecting fresh energy into the week. Among the highlights are hotly awaited returns, buzzworthy emerging labels, and game-changing debuts from new creative leads at Gucci, Jil Sander, and Bottega Veneta. Adding to the significance, Giorgio Armani will celebrate his 50th anniversary with a landmark show.

Fendi to stage a mixed-gender show thisSeptember – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

As the Spring/Summer 2026 women’s ready-to-wear season shifts from Paris to Milan, anticipation is building for one of the most exciting fashion weeks in recent years. The Milan calendar, running from September 23 to 29, is packed with momentum: 12 new names are joining the schedule, balancing out 11 absences and injecting fresh energy into the week. Among the highlights are hotly awaited returns, buzzworthy emerging labels, and game-changing debuts from new creative leads at Gucci, Jil Sander, and Bottega Veneta. Adding to the significance, Giorgio Armani will celebrate his 50th anniversary with a landmark show.

Milan will host 55 physical runway shows this season—slightly more than February’s 54—including two from Emporio Armani. The week wraps on Monday, September 29, with four digital showcases featuring Maxivive and three newcomers: Mein Corp by Italian designer Lorenzo Sala, Ukrainian label Nadya Dyzak (launched in 2008), and Zenam by Cameroonian designer Paul Tanonkou, previously featured on the menswear calendar.

Gucci will open Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday, September 23, with Demna unveiling his first collection for the house. Although included in the official calendar, the debut will take the form of a presentation rather than a runway show. During Kering’s half-year results, Francesca Bellettini, Deputy Managing Director for House Development, stated that the artistic director will share “his vision and a complete collection presented in a static way to remind people what Gucci is all about.” Demna will stage his first runway show for the brand in March 2026.

Simone Bellotti will present his debut collection for Jil Sander on Wednesday, September 24. Later that week, on Saturday, September 27, Louise Trotter will reveal her first collection for Bottega Veneta, which will return to the calendar after its absence last February.

Fendi will continue its centennial celebrations on the same day with a mixed-gender show curated by Silvia Venturini Fendi. Giorgio Armani will begin marking his anniversary earlier in the week, on September 24, with the opening of a major retrospective at the Pinacoteca di Brera, featuring 150 archival looks. He will then close Fashion Week on Sunday, September 28, with a celebratory show in the courtyard of honor at Palazzo Brera.

Versace will step away from the runway this season as it undergoes a transition under new creative director Dario Vitale. Now part of the Prada Group, the house will stage its first official runway show under Vitale next winter. However, it will remain in the presentation calendar with a “confidential” event on September 26, previewing the designer’s first looks.

KNWLS to debut on the Milan runway thisseason
KNWLS to debut on the Milan runway thisseason – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

KNWLS will make its Milan debut on Wednesday, September 24. Known for its sexy, Y2K-inspired silhouettes and focus on feminine empowerment, the London-based brand has built strong momentum in recent years. English designer Charlotte Knowles and her Canadian partner Alexandre Arsenault founded the label in 2017. A finalist for the 2022 LVMH Prize, KNWLS now appears in more than 50 top multi-brand retailers worldwide.

Several designers will return to the Milan schedule this season after recent absences, including Boss, Calcaterra, Federico Cina, The Attico, and Stella Jean. Anglo-Nigerian designer Ineye Tokyo James, who first showed in Milan in February 2022 and returned in digital format last March, will also be back. Vietnamese designer Phan Dang Hoang, who debuted in September 2024, will return to the calendar as well. Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor and French designer Pierre-Louis Mascia, both previously shown on the menswear schedule, will shift to the women’s week.

The Milano Moda Graduate show will return on Sunday, September 28, for its 11th edition, spotlighting emerging talent from Italian fashion schools. A day earlier, on Saturday, September 27, the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards will honor leadership in eco-conscious fashion. Launched in 2017 by the Italian Fashion Chamber, the awards have become a benchmark in sustainable innovation.

This summer edition will also see several brands step away from the schedule. In addition to Versace, both Marni and Bally will remain absent as they undergo creative transitions. Fiorucci will now appear on the Men’s Fashion Week calendar, having shifted its showing to June. Other brands missing from the provisional lineup include Avavav, which had shown in Milan since September 2023; Susan Fang, who presented last March with support from Dolce & Gabbana; and Philipp Plein, K-Way, and DSquared2.

Despite these absences, Milan Fashion Week will continue to showcase the strength of Made in Italy. Powerhouse labels such as Prada, Moschino, Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, and Max Mara will lead a calendar that remains among the most influential in global fashion.

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France abandons bid for the total suspension of Shein’s website

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December 5, 2025

On Friday, France demanded a series of measures from Shein to demonstrate that the products sold on its website comply with the law, but dropped its initial request for a total three-month suspension of the online platform, which had been based on the sale of child-like sex dolls and prohibited weapons.

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At a hearing before the Paris court, a lawyer representing the state said that Shein must implement controls on its website, including age verification and filtering, to ensure that minors cannot access pornographic content. The state asked the court to impose a suspension of Shein’s marketplace until Shein has provided proof to Arcom, the French communications regulator, that these controls have been implemented.

Shein deactivated its marketplace- where third-party sellers offer their products- in France on November 5, after authorities discovered illegal items for sale, but its site selling Shein-branded clothing remains accessible. The state invoked Article 6.3 of France’s Digital Economy Act, which empowers judges to order measures to prevent or halt harm caused by online content.

“We don’t claim to be here to replace the European Commission,” the state’s lawyer said. “We are not here today to regulate; we are here to prevent harm, in the face of things that are unacceptable.” At the time of writing, the hearing is still ongoing.

In a statement issued last week, the Paris public prosecutor’s office said that a three-month suspension could be deemed “disproportionate” in light of European Court of Human Rights case law if Shein could prove that it had ceased all sales of illegal products. However, the public prosecutor’s office said it “fully supported” the government’s request that Shein provide evidence of the measures taken to stop such sales.

France’s decision comes against a backdrop of heightened scrutiny of Chinese giants such as Shein and Temu under the EU’s Digital Services Act, reflecting concerns about consumer safety, the sale of illegal products, and unfair competition. In the US, Texas Attorney General Ken Paxton said on Monday that he was investigating Shein to determine whether the fast-fashion retailer had violated state law relating to unethical labour practices and the sale of dangerous consumer products.

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Kappa goes local for football campaign that traces a ‘lifelong love of the game’

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December 5, 2025

BasicNet’s Kappa turns back the sporting clock for its new AW25 collection, which celebrates “local heroes in football” with a community-focused campaign “honouring the places and people that inspire a lifelong love of the game”.

Image: Kappa

The campaign shines a light on local talent Tyrone Marsh in his hometown of Bedford, revisiting the streets, pitches and community spots “that shaped his football journey”.

Local photographer Simon Gill, who had pictured Marsh during many home and away games, not only “captures the Bedford Town player in the spaces that helped define his skill”, but also highlights the brand’s “rich football heritage with contemporary streetwear energy, creating visuals that pay tribute to community, culture and grassroots football”.

The journey includes Hartwell Drive, the early days of his after-school kickabouts, Hillgrounds Road, synonymous with Bedford football culture, and then onto Faraday Square, locally identified by the concrete pitches and community spirit.

To reflect that journey, the AW25 collection “offers a sense of nostalgia” with Kappa’s long-standing history in fashion and sports “seen through the Omini logo placements and 222 Banda strip”.

The campaign sees Marsh wearing Kappa styles including the Lyman and Uriah Track Tops paired with the Ulrich Track Pants in classic colourways including navy and light blue.

The wider collection includes track tops, track pants, shorts, polos, sweatshirts and T-shirts, available at select retailers across the UK including 80s Casual Classics, Terraces Menswear and RD1 Clothing.

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UK footfall suffers the November blues ahead of Christmas rush

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December 5, 2025

UK footfall down in November? Blame the Budget and bad weather. Those two important factors damaged shoppers’ desire to venture out, resulting in an albeit slender 0.8% year-on-year dip in footfall last month, with all types of destinations suffering. It was also the seventh consecutive footfall decline, noted the latest British Retail Consortium (BRC)/Sensormatic report

Image: Nigel Taylor

That meant visits to high streets were down 1.2% in November and down from a 0.6% rise in October; shopping centre footfall dipped 1.3% last month, down from a 0.9% dip in October; and retail park visits were down 0.4% in November, but were better than a 0.5% dip in October.

The BRC also noted that November’s Storm Claudia prompted many consumers to search online for Black Friday deals throughout November, leading some to not visit physical stores on Black Friday.

But there was good news, with some northern UK cities – including Manchester and Sheffield – continuing to buck the trend, “recording positive footfall for the eighth consecutive month”.

So with many shoppers holding off on store visits until this month, Helen Dickinson, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium, said: “With the Golden Quarter in full swing, retailers are continuing to invest what they can to entice customers into stores over Christmas.

“However, as we approach the New Year, given the downward trend in footfall across recent years, we need a comprehensive strategy to revitalise our high streets and shopping centres, from better transport, affordable parking, to a reformed planning system to enable faster, better development.”

Andy Sumpter, Retail Consultant EMEA for Sensormatic, added: “November may have been dominated by caution, but there are glimmers of hope. The Golden Quarter isn’t over yet, and with four of our predicted Top Five shopping days still to come, the festive season could deliver the lift retailers need. A last-minute rush may top off the year, turning caution into celebration. With the right balance of value, convenience, and experience, there’s still time to make December count.”

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