Tendam begins a “new era” with Multiply Group, in which it expects double-digit growth over the next five years. – Tendam
“We are starting a new era, we are opening a new important stage, which allows us to develop a long-term agenda with stability, and that is good for everyone and where we expect acceleration in the growth model,” said Tendam’s president and CEO Jaume Miquel, after officially closing the deal with Multiply Group yesterday. Multiply Group is a holding company that has a “long-term vision for the business, with a vocation of permanence.”
The fashion group is in the process of defining its business plan for the coming five years and expects to record “double-digit” growth. The year 2025 is shaping up to be a “transition year” with growth in line with that of recent years.
“This year we should have growth more in line with previous years, while the acceleration would be from 2026 and the average of the plan is in double digits,” said Miquel.
Entering into a new era, the fashion group expects to register “exponential growth” for its brands and will develop them by launching at new locations, including internationally. In addition, Tendam’s CEO announced that the conglomerate is working on “an agenda of acquisitions,” as well as investments in digital and artificial intelligence (AI).
“There is significant potential for growth; if I look at the future of the group, 55% will be organic and 45% will come from geographic expansion, acquisitions, and digitalisation,” said Miquel.
In this new phase, Tendam plans to boost the internationalisation of the 12 brands it currently owns. “We see that there is international appetite,” said Miquel. “The Middle East and the Gulf countries are going to be a growth priority to exploit the potential of our brands, but Mexico [also] continues to be a priority, where we have double-digit growth.” Miquel also noted that the goal is for each brand to have physical stores and to internationalise.
In addition, the owner of Cortefiel, Hoss Intropia, and Pedro del Hierro is analysing purchases to continue growing and expanding its portfolio. This includes other proposals that are not limited to men’s and women’s fashion or intimate apparel, such as footwear, sneakers, and accessories.
“They have to be companies that are not good, but very good, that add quality in terms of management, brands, and profitability. We are evaluating what seems most appropriate to generate a future of sustainable growth,” said Miquel, who anticipates “there should be movement” in this area in the next 24-36 months.
As to whether the business is considering acquiring any fast fashion brands, the executive acknowledged that the team is looking for “good companies that add value to the business model,” while remaining committed to “strengthening” the brands already created and are considering whether to launch new brands on the market. “We will evaluate what generates a greater opportunity for us; whether to accelerate acquisitions or to create new brands. We are open to both alternatives,” said Miquel.
Multiply Group sees “a lot of potential” in Tendam
Multiply Group president and CEO, Samia Bouazza, expressed she was “very happy” with the holding company’s entry into the textile group. “We see a lot of potential in Tendam. We want to grow in fashion, which can be complemented with additional acquisitions such as services, logistics or integrating other brands.”
The Middle Eastern investment holding company makes its debut in Spain with the acquisition of 67.9% of Tendam. The business already has operations in sectors such as energy, mobility, public services, media, and beauty.
Specifically, the consolidation of this deal in Spain should enable the Middle Eastern holding company to double its gross operating profit (EBITDA) and amplify its investment model.
Additionally, Bouazza made no secret of her desire for Tendam to expand its brands in Abu Dhabi. “We would love to, because there are customers who are asking us for it, and it will be a pleasure to bring in beautiful Spanish labels such as Pedro del Hierro and Cortefiel,” said Bouazza.
Regarding the shareholding situation of the textile group, where Multiply Group operates as the majority shareholder, Bouazza pointed out that “it is not important” to increase the holding, as Multiply Group is the majority shareholder, while she stressed that the business will continue to work with CVC and PAI, who, after this operation, remain as minority shareholders.
Bouazza does not rule out further investments in Spain
On the other hand, the CEO of Multiply Group acknowledged that Spain is a good country to invest in. “Spain has all the ingredients at the macro level to consider it a good environment for investment. Our long-term objective is to support Tendam’s growth, but if there are synergies with ancillary services and new brands, we are here to give that support and we would do it in Spain,” said Bouazza.
“If a good opportunity comes along that fits our criteria, we will act. We are looking for scalable investments that can be expanded around the world,” said Bouazza, regarding the possibility of making further investments in the Spanish market.
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Lululemon was making headlines last week as its CEO exited but it had more upbeat news on Sunday as Lewis Hamilton made a personal appearance at the Regent Street, London, flagship store to to celebrate the launch of The Lewis Hamilton Edit, a curated 36-piece capsule personally selected by the champion racing driver.
André Maestrini and Lewis Hamilton – Lululemon
Importantly too, joining Hamilton in-store for photos was Lululemon’s new interim CEO, André Maestrini, marking his first public appearance in the role and highlighting the company’s focus on innovation, as well as stressing that there’s no vacuum at the top of the company’s leadership tree.
Hamilton became a Lululemon ambassador earlier this year and made an unannounced appearance in the store.
Available exclusively at the Regent Street location and on the brand’s UK webstore, the Edit brings together Hamilton’s favourite menswear and womenswear pieces from the brand’s Winter 2025 collection — “each style chosen for its high performance and elevated aesthetic, all filtered through the distinctive personal style he’s renowned for”.
The appearance may have been unannounced but there were plenty of fans gathered outside to see him in a full look from the Edit as he greeted the crowd, signed autographs, and posed for photos.
The first 100 people in the queue also received Lululemon products signed by Hamilton and he was also helping staff style looks and wrap gifts behind the tills.
Such appearances are hugely important for stores at this time of year as they compete to attract customers.
In a report of around 40 pages, the Dutch NGO Changing Markets casts doubt on polyester’s virtuous image, suggesting it releases far more microplastics than virgin polyester, according to research conducted at Çukurova University in Turkey.
Shutterstock
The university carried out tests on 51 “representative” garments from the product ranges of the brands Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein, and Zara. The document, reviewed by FashionNetwork, indicates that recycled polyester sheds 54.8% more microplastic particles. The NGO believes this figure may even be an underestimate.
Changing Markets argues that the polyester presented as recycled by Shein is not actually recycled. This appears to be borne out by the platform itself, as the word “recycled” has disappeared from the product pages of certain items. According to the study, this “polyester fraud” is commonplace in the textile industry, with the study noting evidence of similar practices at H&M and Nike.
When Shein products are excluded from the analysis, the volume of microfibres released is 72% higher than for virgin polyester. The document also notes that microfibres from recycled polyester are 20% smaller than those released by virgin polyester.
Use of bottles under scrutiny
Why the disparity? The study offers little explanation, simply noting that recycling processes, whether chemical or mechanical, weaken polymer chains, creating shorter, more imperfect molecular structures.
However, this is not the study’s main focus, which primarily targets the conversion of plastic bottles into polyester, with 98% of recycled polyester not coming from recycled textiles and clothing. Changing Markets likens this to a form of greenwashing, and argues that the practice misleads consumers about the supposed environmental virtue of these products.
The study was unable to compare shedding due to the lack of virgin polyester at Zara and of uniform materials at Adidas. The material marketed by Shein is suspected of not actually being recycled. – Changing Markets
“Recycled polyester has become a practical solution for the industry, allowing brands to claim progress in reducing their reliance on virgin plastic while increasing overall synthetic fibre production,” reads the study. “Textile Exchange data makes this clear: although recycled polyester volumes increased last year, its overall market share fell from 12.5% to 12%, as virgin polyester grew even faster.”
Disputed findings
Nike proved the most polluting (for both virgin and recycled fabrics), ahead of Adidas: Nike’s recycled polyester shed over 30,000 fibres per gram of garment on average, nearly four times more than H&M and seven times more than Zara.
Adidas maintains that it sees “an environmental benefit in using recycled polyester,” a spokesperson told AFP, because “no crude oil needs to be processed and plastic waste is reused.”
“Compared with virgin polyester, it generates far fewer greenhouse gas emissions,” continued the German sportswear company, citing other scientific studies, such as that by the NGO Microfibre Consortium, which find no significant differences between recycled and virgin fibres when it comes to microfibre shedding.
“The H&M Group shares concerns about the environmental impact of fibre fragments,” the Swedish brand told AFP, pointing out that polyester accounts for only 22% of its production and saying it is working in particular on “research into production processes that reduce the release of particles.”
For now, Nike, Shein, and Zara have not responded to AFP’s requests regarding the study’s findings.
FashionNetwork.com with AFP
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If anyone thought the JW Anderson label would take something of back seat after Jonathan Anderson landed the creative chief’s role at Dior, they couldn’t have been more wrong. And the latest development at the weekend showed JWA is still very much front of mind for Anderson.
JW Anderson
The company opened a Pimlico Road store, in a part of London known for its antique stores, design boutiques and homewares specialists. It said the new store “naturally aligns with the brand’s growing Home and Garden collection”.
Each of the label’s locations “absorbs and reflects its surroundings” and for this one, “within an environment of timeless design, Home and Garden sits at the heart of the store, accompanied by a selection of Ready to Wear, Shoes and Accessories”.
There’s also an emphasis on art. The inaugural art installation presents six sculptural sconces by British artist Kira Freije. Drawing from welding, glassblowing and other craft processes. The works will be available exclusively in-store until February. Meanwhile ready-to-Wear from the latest collection “including pieces rooted in local craftsmanship, are shown alongside collaborative objects by international artisans”.
JW Anderson
We’re told that “curating is an utterly personal passion, which Jonathan Anderson now channels into a re-articulated JW Anderson”.
As with the brand’s Soho and Milan flagships, the store concept has been developed by architects Sanchez Benton. Spanning two floors, its layout is “shaped by velvet panelling that creates intimate, distinct rooms”. And as well as the main retail area, the lower ground floor houses a dedicated Press and VIP Salon, “offering a private environment”.
The opening comes hot on the heels of the brand’s Miami pop-up that opened during the city’s Art Week in partnership with luxury retailer The Webster, running until 15 December.