Monday, July 7 marked the kick-off of the Rencontres de la Photographie in Arles, southern France. Open until October 5, the event is largely focused on engagement, and this edition of the Rencontres de Arles will showcase invisibilized populations around the world, from Australia to Brazil, and the Caribbean to North America, bearing witness to the still-open scars of colonization.
Photo from the On Country series, presented at Arles – Les rencontres photographiques d’Arles
For its 56th edition, the festival brings together international photographic luminaries and enthusiasts but reserves a special place for fashion, through prizes, collaborations, and events, starting with the exhibitions.
Fashion in the exhibitions
Fashion is obviously present throughout the exhibitions, an essential part of the Rencontres. You’ll find it in the wedding outfits in the “Ancestral Futures, Brazilian Contemporary Scene” exhibition (Église des Trinitaires), in the costumes in Brandon Gercara’s “Magma in the Ocean” (Maison des peintres), and in the traditional and futuristic outfits worn by the women of Canada’s First Nations, in Caroline Monnet’s “Echoes of a Near Future” series.
The 2024 edition of Les Rencontres attracted a record 160,000 visitors. – Les Rencontres de la photographie
Keisha Scarville will exhibit her series “Alma/Les Vêtements de Maman” in the Salle Henri Comte. The photographer invokes the presence of her deceased mother through the 3rd art, featuring her beloved clothes and objects. In “Elles Obliquent, Elles Obstinent, Elles Tempêtent” (Commanderie Sainte-Lucie) by Agnès Geoffray, the women photographed embody young girls considered “deviant” due to their behavior deviating from the social and moral norms governing their gender”, between the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Fashion is omnipresent here, as a tool of resistance or rebellion by the characters. The skirt is lifted, flipped over the head, but so is the order and the straitjacket: all are dressed in the same way, in a last-ditch attempt to bring them into line.
Beyond these exhibitions, the Rencontres de la Photographie offers a privileged window of visibility for fashion brands and groups.
Luxury and culture, a marriage of convenience
And with good reason: a record 160,000 visitors took to the streets of Arles during the last edition of the Rencontres, so much so that Louis Vuitton is dedicating one of its City Guides to Arles. Priced at twenty-five euros, the little blue book stamped with the LV logo pays tribute to the city and its festival.
American Nan Goldin wins Women In Motion 2025 award for photography – Kering
Other players in the fashion world are also interested in the Rencontres Photographiques and its host city. On a macro level, the Kering group is once again showing its participation in the festival with its Women In Motion 2025 award for photography, presented to American photographer Nan Goldin on July 8. In a press release, Nan Goldin confides: “It is a great honor to receive this award. I’m very proud to be associated with these exceptional women photographers, to whom I owe great respect and deep admiration.”
The photographer has made a name for herself through her work portraying women and marginal communities, denouncing domestic violence and deconstructing gender stereotypes. Her work “Syndrome de Stendhal” will be exhibited at the Saint-Blaise church in Arles.
Kering, for its part, has been a partner of Les Rencontres d’Arles since 2019, when the group inaugurated the Women In Motion Prize for Photography, while continuing to support emerging talent through the Prix de la Photo Madame Figaro Arles, which it has supported since 2016. Since 2024, the group has been a Grand Partner of the festival.
An exhibition dedicated to photography and Yves Saint Laurent
Co-produced by Les Rencontres d’Arles and the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, in collaboration with the Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, the exhibition “Yves Saint Laurent and Photography” highlights Yves Saint Laurent’s love of photography and the great photographers of the XXᵉ century. The exhibition is installed at Mécanique Générale, a refurbished former workshop, until October 5.
Yves Saint Laurent – Harry Meerson pour la Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent
“Yves Saint Laurent et la Photographie” is structured around two itineraries. The first traces the evolution of fashion images and emblematic portraits of the couturier, with dozens of works by Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, and William Klein. The second, conceived as a cabinet of curiosities, will feature over 200 archival objects such as contact sheets, catalogs, magazines, and personal photographs, illustrating the central role of photography in the couturier’s work and in his fashion house.
At the beginning of July, the city of Arles saw the opening of a fashion-related cultural institution, reinforcing its link with the industry. The Musée de la Mode et du Costume de l’Entreprise de Parfumerie Fragonard opened its doors on July 6, after five years of renovation work on the Hôtel Bouchaud de Bussy, located at 16 rue de la Calade in Arles.
The project was born of a meeting between Odile Pascal and her mother Magali, collectors of Arles costumes, and Anne, Agnès, and Françoise Costa, the directors of Fragonard. The collection of their mother, Hélène Costa, had initiated the creation of the Musée Provençal du Costume et du Bijou in Grasse in 1997. Shortly before Magali Pascal’s death, the Costa sisters committed themselves to acquiring the entire Arles collection and giving it a place of exhibition and conservation, to bring to life a life’s work focused on the history of Arles fashion.
Whalebone body, second half of the 18th century – Fanny Terno
The renovation of the Hôtel Bouchaud de Bussy was carried out by the Studio architectural duo, known for their work on the Yves Saint Laurent museum in Marrakech, and thanks to the expertise of heritage architect Nathalie d’Artigues.It hosts its first exhibition combining pieces from the Pascal and Costa collections, aptly titled “Collections-Collection”, which invites visitors to understand how items, on their arrival in a collection, occupy an isolated place before entering into dialogue with the objects around them.
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The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.