Once the darling of Japanese stock investors, department stores have lagged the recent broad market rally and could fall further behind as a strong yen dents tourist spending power.
Low confidence stemming from economic uncertainty has also crimped tourist budgets with data compiled by the Japan Department Stores Association showing tax-free inbound sales at over 80 department stores across the country fell by 41% in May from a year earlier. The number of shoppers also slid, despite the tally of visitors setting a new record.
“The yen has gotten a bit stronger, which makes them feel like the deal isn’t as good anymore,” said Tetsuo Seshimo, a portfolio manager at Saison Asset Management. “Even if tourists visit Japan, whether they want to make purchases will depend on the level of confidence they have,” he added referring to their conviction in the economic strength of their home country.
The drop in sales continued into June with retailer H20 Retailing Corp. and Matsuya Co. Ltd.’s flagship stores announcing two-digit decline from a year earlier. Isetan Mitsukoshi Holdings Ltd. saw a decline of nearly a tenth from a year ago.
Bloomberg
Retailer Takashimaya Co. this week lowered its inbound assumptions and cut its full-year outlook, while J. Front Retailing Co.’s operating profit from its department store segment fell by 13% in the March-May period on weak luxury sales. Shares of Takashimaya fell 2.2% and J. Front dropped 3.4% last month, compared to Topix’s 1.8% gain in the same period.
The Japanese yen gained 4% against the dollar in the last quarter amid dollar weakness. In the past year, it has strengthened versus the dollar to around 143 from 160.
Consumer confidence is already deteriorating in the world’s biggest economy, with a surprisingly weak June reading in the US. Anxiety will likely become even more visible ahead as some goods may see tariff-related price increases occur this summer, according to Eliza Winger at Bloomberg Economics.
Booming tourism has helped Topix’s sub-index for the retail sector rise 22% last year, supporting Japan’s broader stock market. But a further drop in shares may weigh on the Topix which is now near its all time high.
Shares of Kansai-based Kintetsu Department Store Co. fell 20% over April-June, while Isetan Mitsukoshi also underperformed the broader Topix. Kintetsu Department Store is scheduled to post earnings on July 11, and Isetan Mitsukoshi will report on Aug 8.
An earthquake prophesied by a viral manga may also deter luxury shoppers. Although scientists debunk such predictions, airline bookings from Taiwan, South Korea and Hong Kong have dropped since April, according to Bloomberg Intelligence analysis of ForwardKeys data. A drop may further weigh on sales as visitors from the three regions accounted for one third of total spending by inbound tourists in 2024, according to data from Japan Tourism Agency.
Added to that, local media has reported that the Japanese government is mulling the abolishment of a tourist tax exemption which could muddy the long-term outlook further.
To be sure, valuation of shares may seem appealing to some investors with Takashimaya and H2O Retailing trading below their book value after the selloff, triggering speculation the firms may enhance shareholder returns and boost price-to-book ratios.
But the glory days for the luxury sector seem to be over as investors seek other plays at a time when the economy is shifting into higher gear.
“Growth rates for department stores is highly likely to slow down going forward and we may soon see investors starting to secure profits and rotate into other sectors,” said Hiroki Takei, a strategist a Resona Holdings Inc.
Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.
A look inside the salon of the French luxury house’s new Vienna store. – CELINE
The 150-square-metre luxury boutique in Vienna spans three storeys. It showcases the latest womenswear and menswear collections, beauty, fragrances, and Maison pieces. From the outside, the flagship impresses with a listed façade of sculpted marble, paired with large, dark-framed, floor-to-ceiling windows.
Inside, natural stone prevails, with materials such as Grand Antique marble combined with travertine. Basaltina flooring laid throughout features a French-inspired chevron pattern. The sense of luxury is heightened by ultra-clear mirrors- some finished in antique gold- neon lighting, and polished metal.
On the ground floor, womenswear is presented, beginning with accessories, leather goods, beauty products, and fragrances. This is followed by the ready-to-wear area.
A staircase with cantilevered steps, inspired by minimalism, leads to the first floor, where the menswear collections are presented. The scheme here is darker overall, with black-lacquered walls and a selection of timbers that contrast with the lighter woods in the other areas.
A look inside the luxury boutique. – CELINE
An intimate salon on the second floor, accessible exclusively via a private lift, expands the store and includes an enlarged fitting room.
Throughout the store and its numerous lounge areas, the furnishings comprise a selection of vintage and contemporary pieces. As part of the ongoing Celine Art Project, a curated selection of artworks is on display with a stoneware composition by Anders Hald, a painting by Jasmine Gregory, and sculptures by Rosalind Tallmadge and Marcelo Silveira.
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