Indian footwear sellers and artisans are tapping into nationalist pride stoked by the Prada ‘sandal scandal’ in a bid to boost sales of ethnic slippers with history dating back to the 12th century, raising hopes of reviving a struggling craft.
Sales are surging over the past week for the ‘Kolhapuri’ sandals that have garnered global attention after Prada sparked a controversy by showcasing similar designs in Milan, without initially crediting the footwear’s origins.
After viral photos from a fashion show drew criticism from Indian artisans who make the sandals – named after a historic city in Maharashtra state – Prada was forced to acknowledge that its new open-toe footwear was inspired by ancient Indian designs.
“Prada 0: Kolhapur 1,” said an Instagram post by e-commerce website Shopkop, whose founder Rahul Parasu Kamble’s open letter to Prada pointing out the footwear is “soaked in tradition” was reshared 36,000 times on social media.
“I saw the controversy as a way to promote Kolhapuri,” said Kamble, 33, who has seen sales of sandals he sources from local artisans touch 50,000 rupees ($584) in three days, five times the average.
Social media has been abuzz in recent days with criticism and sarcastic memes, with politicians, artisans and a trade body demanding due credit to Indian heritage.
Prada has said it will arrange follow-up meetings with artisans. In a statement to Reuters on Tuesday, it added the Italian group intends to make the sandals in India in collaboration with local manufacturers, if it commercialises them.
India’s luxury market is small but growing, with the rich splurging on Lamborghini cars and pricey watches. Prada does not have a single retail store in India and its products are usually reserved for the super rich – its men’s leather sandals start retailing at $844, while Kolhapuris can be priced as low as $12.
But linking of the Prada name to the Kolhapuri sandals, which are made by around 7,000 artisans, is providing a business opportunity for some.
Mumbai-based Ira Soles is running new Facebook and Instagram advertisements which proclaim its $32 “Tan Handcrafted Kolhapuris just walked the ramp at Prada … Limited stock. Global spotlight. Own a piece of what the world is applauding.”.
E-commerce website Niira is offering up to 50% discounts on its Kolhapuri slippers it says are “rooted in tradition”. Its sales of $18 sandals, that looked like the one Prada showcased in Milan, have tripled, founder Nishant Raut said.
“Why can’t an Indian Kolhapuri brand become as big as a Birkenstock,” he said.
Handmade in small factories, Kolhapuri sandals, or chappals as they are called in Hindi, are often paired with Indian attire. Similar designs are sold in big outlets of Bata India and Metro Brands, and also on Amazon and Walmart’s Flipkart.
In 2021, India’s government said the sandals could achieve $1 billion a year in exports. Though latest estimates are not available, artisans say the business has struggled as consumers increasingly opt for more fashionable, upmarket footwear.
Still, the Prada controversy is breathing new life into a craft that Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra’s main industry lobby group, says is “a dying art”. Gandhi said he is in talks with Prada to develop a co-branded, limited-edition sandal.
Kolhapur craftsmen Ashok Doiphode, 50, is pinning hopes on a Prada boost. He hand-stitches sandals for nine hours daily but can sell a pair for just 400 rupees ($5).
“If big companies like Prada come, craftsman like me can get a good price.”
NARS Cosmetics has revealed Kaia Gerber as its newest global brand ambassador, saying she’s a “beauty and fashion icon [and] a longtime collaborator” of founder and creative director, François Nars.
Kaia Gerber by François Nars
She certainly adds a newsworthy element to any brand she fronts having walked the runways for the biggest global designer labels as well as appearing on the covers of the world’s top glossy magazines.
She’s been in demand by high end and mass-market labels this year and in May was announced as Mango’s latest face in a deal that the retailer called a “collaboration” set to run throughout the year. Two months earlier she’d appeared with her mother Cindy Crawford for Mango’s rival Zara with the duo headlining a new session of its ‘Zara Streaming’ initiative.
She makes her debut for NARS with the launch of a campaign shot by François Nars for the new Afterglow Lip Balm. That product launches in January and continues the trend for high-end brands diving deep into a once-humble category and backing their launches with major campaigns.
Shiseido-owned NARS has been expanding in recent periods and only in October announced a strategic partnership with Indian giant Reliance Retail’s omnichannel business Tira to boost accessibility in the country. Gerber’s presence is likely to be a boost for its growth plans.
François Nars said of her: “Kaia is a true beauty, a supermodel of today who carries with her the spirit of another era. Working with her on this campaign felt like stepping back into the age of the original icons. Those supermodels were more than faces; what I always loved about them was their joy. They loved the camera, the artistry of makeup and hair, and fashion itself. Most importantly, they gave everything in front of the camera, pouring their energy into creating the most beautiful images possible. Kaia has that same spirit and photographing her was like reliving the magic—one of the very things that made me fall in love with this industry in the first place.”
NudeProject is advancing its European expansion. The Spanish urban fashion brand has added Germany to the list of markets in which it has a retail presence: on Friday December 12, it opened a store on Alte Schönhauser Straße in Berlin.
New Nude Project store in Berlin – Nude Project
The store is the brand’s first permanent location in the German capital, although it tested the market in the city last spring with a pop-up. With this opening, Nude Project now operates four international brick-and-mortar stores, alongside existing locations in Milan, Lisbon, and Amsterdam. In October, the brand crossed the Atlantic to make its first foray into US retail with a temporary pop-up in Miami.
Founded in 2019 by Bruno Casanovas and Alex Benlloch, the firm has become a phenomenon among younger consumers and has progressively expanded its catalogue in recent years, spanning both womenswear and menswear, as well as accessories.
Collaborations are a key part of the brand’s identity; in fact, it has just unveiled a new capsule with Playboy, its third joint launch. In financial terms, it reported revenue of €26 million in the 2023 financial year (the most recent figures available).
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Retail giant Next has been a major acquirer of brands in recent years and a report claims that premium footwear chain Russell & Bromley is now on its shopping list.
Billie Piper for Russell & Bromley
Next either owns or has majority stakes in Reiss, FatFace, Joules, Cath Kidston, Made, Laura Ashley’s homewares and more. But while it has a big war chest for acquisitions, it’s not the only company targeting Russell & Bromley.
Sky News reported that the 145-year-old family-owned footwear and accessories is courting investors and Next is one of several parties in talks with Russell & Bromley’s advisers about a deal. None of the other potential buyers have been identified.
Russell & Bromley confirmed this autumn that it had appointed advisory specialist Interpath to look at funding options for the business.
In October, CEO Andrew Bromley said: “We are currently exploring opportunities to help take Russell & Bromley into the next phase of our ‘Re Boot’ vision. Since the announcement of the ‘Re Boot’ earlier this year we have made significant progress, positioning us well to build on our momentum and continue along our journey. We are looking forward to working with our advisory team to secure the necessary investment to accelerate our expansion plans.”
The company has stores and concessions in the UK and Ireland and is led by Bromley, who’s from the fifth generation of his family to run the chain.
Earlier this year, he oversaw the launch of a five-year turnaround plan focused on “refining the brand proposition, elevating the product offering, streamline operations and fuel market expansion at pace”.
In September, the change of approach could be seen when the company launched a quirky campaign fronted by pop star-turned-actress Billie Piper. It was overseen by creative director Daniel Beardsworth-Shaw (who joined as the brand’s first CD in 2024) and was an unusual move for the label that’s not previously been known for its celebrity ambassadors or surreal campaign concepts.
In its last accounts, covering 2023, the company reported turnover down to just under £40 million from almost £45 million. EBITDA was a loss of £3.2 million after a narrower loss of £404,000 the year before. And the loss after tax was £6.9 million, also wider than the loss in the prior year of £4.6 million. The company didn’t share any details about what had gone wrong.
Those accounts were filed in early November 2024 and its next filing (covering 2024) is due before the end of this year.
Whether Next or another business buys it or takes a stake (it’s unclear which option the controlling family favours) will clearly have big impact on its future direction. Next already has a strong track record in the premium sector in which Russell & Bromley operates with its stewardship of Reiss.
Next declined to comment on the Sky News story, and both Russell & Bromley and Interpath couldn’t be reached.
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