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Antonio De Matteis opens Pitti Uomo 108 with a call for resilience

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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June 17, 2025

Launching the 108th edition of Pitti Uomo, Antonio De Matteis, president of Pitti Immagine, struck a chord of optimism. Speaking to exhibitors in Florence, he described the event as “a powerful act of courage”—a collective statement of faith in the strength of fashion.

Antonio De Matteis – DR

This season, Pitti Uomo features 340 exhibitors, with 46% representing international brands. Pitti Immagine president Antonio De Matteis states that the strong foreign presence reaffirms the trade show’s global reach. “Yes, the global geopolitical climate is tough right now,” he acknowledged, “but we need to zoom out and shift the perspective.”

De Matteis pointed to 2019 as the industry’s last pre-pandemic benchmark, when Italian menswear generated €10.14 billion in revenue. Despite ongoing economic challenges, the sector is projected to reach €11.42 billion in 2024. “Yes, we’ve seen a 3.6% dip compared to 2023—but let’s be clear, this is not the catastrophe some reports suggest,” he emphasized.

He also highlighted steady production value, which rose from €4.68 billion in 2023 to €4.73 billion in 2024. Export numbers followed a similar trend: from €7.03 billion in 2019 to a projected €8.84 billion this year. “If we examine these figures calmly and objectively, without falling into panic, it’s clear that menswear remains in good shape,” De Matteis said. “In fact, we’ve grown beyond levels we once considered exceptional.”

To close his address, De Matteis turned to a football metaphor close to his Neapolitan roots. Citing a recent statement from Napoli’s new coach Antonio Conte, who urged his team to “work hard” to earn a win, De Matteis offered fashion a similar call to action.

“Fashion can still win its championship,” he said. “We just have to roll up our sleeves.”

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Heimstone to close doors after nineteen years

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December 15, 2025

After nearly two decades of collections, womenswear brand Heimstone will close its doors, founder and artistic director Alix Petit announced on December 15. The decision comes amid diminished purchasing power and an increasingly tough market. The closure is planned in two stages: its physical boutique, located at 23 Rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, will close on December 20, and its e-commerce platform will cease operating on December 30.

Heimstone is currently selling its final collection – Heimstone

“For nineteen years, I have poured immense energy, total dedication and passion into Heimstone, which has shaped me as much as I have shaped Heimstone. But a life is never made up of a single chapter, and I now feel naturally guided towards the end of a cycle,” said Petit in a press release.

An “exhausting” French system

“I am turning the page with clarity, pride and serenity,” she continued. “I feel neither nostalgia nor regret, only the profound certainty that it is time to close one door to open another. Above all, thank you. You have been committed, loyal and dynamic year after year. This community of women is without a doubt the greatest achievement of this adventure.”

The Heimstone adventure draws to a close after nineteen years
The Heimstone adventure draws to a close after nineteen years – Heimstone

The designer also spoke candidly in a video posted on social media, thanking her community as well as her long-standing partners, while criticising a French system that “wears down” industry players, far removed from its “official line.”

A brand with international reach

Heimstone made a name for itself with collections featuring flowing cuts and colourful prints, as well as numerous pop-up stores. The label made appearances in Marseille, Lyon, Lille and Bordeaux, as well as in Brussels and London. With Heimstone, Petit placed a strong emphasis on in-store concepts, regularly innovating. Collaborations included Damart, Catimini, Spartoo, Bocage, Bugaboo and Olivia Dar.

The brand enjoyed international recognition and sales
The brand enjoyed international recognition and sales – Heimstone

For sales, Heimstone relies on eight stockists, including Featsy by Piccadilly Circus in Annecy, By Mahe in Megève and Frimousse le Drugstore in Rennes. A graduate of Atelier Chardon Savard, Petit made Heimstone an internationally sought-after brand at the height of its recognition, with sales in the United States, the United Arab Emirates and across Asia.

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John Lewis 2025 shopping trends report highlights Barbour, cashmere and Queens of Archive

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December 15, 2025

John Lewis has released its annual shopping trends report and said that the UK “saw a national obsession with feeling good” in 2025.

John Lewis

Trends that defined the year included chocolate browns, 1970s-inspired furniture, ‘West End Girl Winter’ and Claudia Winkleman’s wrist warmers.

Essentially “Britain shopped for joy in 2025”, swapping pared-back minimalism for expressive colour, comfort and ‘Nowstalgia’, while embracing wellness, repair culture and outdoor living more than ever,” we’re told.

‘Nowstalgia’ stands for “a revival of 90s music, fashion and culture”, with the Oasis reunion tour “sparking a boom in retro purchases across everything from tech, homes and wardrobes”. 

Sales of bucket hats were up 40%, while parkas, baggy trousers and sheer dresses proved popular too. Interiors saw a retro revival, with chocolate brown and chrome taking centre stage.

The UK’s sunniest summer in years also reshaped outdoor living. Gardens became alfresco kitchens, handheld fan sales topped a record breaking 1 million — the most sold to date. With the seasons shifting, swimwear sales broke records with increases of 18% in September and 28% in October versus last year.

Repair culture saw a major revival too. Demand for pre-owned items and mending rose sharply with eight in 10 Gen Z John Lewis shoppers buying pre-owned fashion and 29% of those aged 18 to 28 saying they frequently wore something more than 30 years-old.

Key trends

Meanwhile, the trend for modern heritage – Scottish tweeds, oversized jumpers, long pleated skirts and waxed jackets – was given a boost by The Celebrity Traitors being the most watched TV series of 2025 (also helping the rise of Claudia Winkleman’s wrist warmers). But it was also driven by Barbour’s playful twist on its classic quilted jackets and its collaboration with Paul Smith; by Russell & Bromley’s “no nonsense Tough Line ankle boots”; and by customers “embracing layering and rejecting flimsy fast fashion”. 

The retailer’s knitted bandana scarf sales increased year on year by 357% while sales of the Khaki Barn Jacket – lightweight but waterproof – shot up 62%. Barbour was John Lewis’s best selling womenswear and menswear brand during October, with menswear sales up 38% in comparison to last year. In fact, its Oxford Street store was taken over by the brand with tartan to celebrate an exclusive John Lewis collection.

Barrel leg jeans were the hit of 2024 and they remained “astonishingly popular” in 2025. They helped revive “all manner of looser denim cuts”. Of the 1,349 different women’s denim jeans available at John Lewis during 2025, the most popular cut has been the wide-legged, with 407 in this category, more than the 309 straight and 147 skinny. 

But as well as the comfort of wide-legged and barrel-legged, “people want something more statement with their denim”, said Claire Miles, head of Womenswear Buying at John Lewis. This “encapsulated everything from Paige’s denim trench, Mango’s tie-neck denim shirt, Rejina Pyo’s brown wash jeans and And/Or’s ruffled denim top and its Clara Cape Denim Jacket”. 

As for the West End Girl Winter trend, only set up during lockdown, Queens of Archive is an Irish-British brand that has made a splash with its 1960s and 1970s-inspired glamour: maxi dresses, silk-touch sleeves, plush velvet.

It has already become its most rented brand at John Lewis, closely followed by Charles Tyrwhitt. But in October, its Stella coat, with 1960s It-girl attitude, cracked vinyl A-frame and big cuffs, suddenly became its most wanted piece after Lily Allen wore it for the video of Tennis – one of the standout tracks on her West End Girl album and one of the most talked about cultural moments of 2025. Since the video was released, searches for ‘Queens of Archive’ on johnlewis.com jumped by 146% compared to a year ago.

Cashmere has become an all-year trend too. A generation ago, cashmere was a once-a-year luxury for most people. But people are now wearing cashmere all year as it’s no longer reserved for jumpers and super-cold days, short-sleeve cashmere, cashmere T-shirts and sleeveless cashmere vests have all proved very popular in 2025.

On johnlewis.com searches for ‘men’s cashmere jumper’ are up 145% so far in 2025 versus 2024. Searches for ‘cashmere’ saw notable peaks in April, July, September and November.

Beauty evolution

Moving on to beauty, cherry has been a hot colour on the catwalks over the last 18 months and beauty brands are also embracing it – both the colour and the scent. 

Skin tints are also increasing in popularity, thanks to the shift in focus from heavy cover-up make-up to skincare-first. This year, John Lewis has started stocking more skin tints than ever before due to high customer demand and brand innovations.

And the 90s revival didn’t only affect fashion. A lot of the best selling beauty products have been glossy, cheerful and unashamedly late 1990s. Lancome this year has brought back the Juicy Tube, originally launched in 2000. The Clinique chubby stick, which first launched in 1997 but relaunched in 2011, has also had a refresh.

The so-called lipstick effect has been visible this year too but John Lewis said the beauty product of choice as an affordable-but-still-luxury treat has been a premium fragrance.

The average selling price of perfumes at John Lewis jumped this year from £73 to £102. A lot of the premiumisation has been driven by the arrival of new luxe brands, including Jo Loves, Penhalligon’s, Byredo and Loewe. Seven of the total 58 brands available are new this year. 

Peter Ruis, MD of John Lewis, said of all this: “This Shop Live Look report highlights the joy and the buzz we have seen in our stores over the past year. It’s clear that customers really embraced colour, comfort and fun again — from big garden parties, 90s tunes on repeat or butter dishes making a comeback. Our stores have never felt more alive with new premium collaborations, pop-up Topshops and cookery workshops, and a glass of fizz in the new John Lewis Lounge. It’s clear the era of Department stores as destinations is having its own ‘Nowstalgia’ moment – and we’re ready to bring more of that in 2026.”

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Twinset confirms ex-Stella McCartney CEO Maggio’s appointment as new chief executive

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Nicola Mira

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December 15, 2025

Gabriele Maggio has been officially appointed CEO of Twinset, under new owners Borletti Group and Quadrivio (the latter through its Made in Italy Fund II). As first reported by FashionNetwork.com in early December, Maggio has been confirmed as the new helm of the Carpi-based Italian womenswear label, sold in June 2025 by the Carlyle investment fund to the current owners, which share a 100% stake in Twinset.

Gabriele Maggio

Maggio has taken over from Alessandro Varisco, who left Twinset after 10 years in charge, a lengthy tenure during which Varisco was directly involved in the label’s sale, a process that Carlyle had embarked on prior to the pandemic.

Maggio’s appointment is part of the relaunch strategy deployed by Borletti Group and Quadrivio, aimed at consolidating Twinset’s position in the affordable luxury segment. A goal that will also be pursued through marketing and communication initiatives with a focus on digital. The new owners are keen to extend Twinset’s retail footprint, both by boosting its presence in the e-tail channel and by expanding in markets that are key for the label, like Spain, France and Eastern Europe.

“I’m excited to join Twinset at this crucial time in its journey,” said Maggio. “The brand has enormous potential, a unique creative heritage and a highly talented staff. Together with the new partners and the entire team, we will work to promote a new phase of solid, inspired growth, further strengthening the brand’s presence in the Italian and European landscape,” he added.

Maggio has joined Twinset after a stint of over a year and a half at Betty Blue, as the CEO of Elisabetta Franchi. He was formerly the president and CEO of Stella McCartney, spearheading the label’s international expansion and positioning it as a benchmark in sustainable luxury. Before that, he was managing director at Moschino, and held senior roles at Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Giorgio Armani and Prada.

“Gabriele’s arrival marks a crucial stage in Twinset’s new era,” said Maurizio Negro, president of Twinset, adding that “his in-depth industry knowledge, combined with his experience as a leader of international brands, makes him the ideal profile to marshal the company through this growth and transformation phase.”

“[Maggio’s] international experience and ability to lead creative and complex organisational teams make him the ideal leader to steer the company through this new phase, in which we want to fully exploit [Twinset’s] potential,” said Maurizio Borletti, partner and co-founder of Borletti Group. “We are sure that Maggio’s professionalism and vision will enable the brand to further consolidate its positioning and strengthen its presence internationally, in line with the fund’s investment strategy,” stated Alessandro Binello, CEO of Quadrivio.

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