In a major strategic change, Dsquared2 has ended its long-time licensing agreement with Staff International, the key operating company of Italian fashion billionaire Renzo Rosso, who, in turn, has already sued the designers in response.
Dean and Dan Caten – Giampaolo Sgura
However, six hours after DSquared2 announced the termination of its long-time licensing agreement with Staff International, the licensee sued the fashion house for breach of contract. The conflicting statements suggest that this issue looks like becoming a major court battle pitting one of Italy’s largest fashion empires against one of Milan’s hottest runway brands.
“Dsquared2 Group announces the immediate termination of its licensing agreement with Staff International S.p.A. Consequently, the group will assume direct control over the production and distribution of its ready-to-wear collections,” the Milan-based house said in a terse release Saturday lunchtime.
“This transition takes effect immediately and will commence with the upcoming pre-collection Spring/Summer 2026 sales campaign,” added Dsquared2, which was founded by twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten over three decades ago.
Staff International is the key production wing of Only The Brave, the holding company of Rosso, which also owns Diesel, Marni, Maison Margiela and Jil Sander, as well as the manufacturing license of Viktor&Rolf.
“Dsquared2 Group expresses its sincere gratitude to all those who have contributed to this collaboration and looks forward to fostering continued partnerships in the future,” the release added.
However, later Saturday, Rosso’s group responded forcefully: “Staff International reiterates its conviction that the license agreement is fully effective and confirms its intention to fully execute it until its natural expiry. Therefore, the company firmly rejects any possibility of early termination of the contractual relationship, and believes that legal conditions for early termination do not exist.”
The agreement with Staff International – which is said to last 25 years – dates back to 2002, and helped fuel the spectacular development of Dsquared2, the last runway label in Milan to have grown into a major global fashion brand.
Born in Willowdale, Ontario, Dean and Dan Caten (Catenacci, originally) began their career path in fashion by moving to New York in 1983 to attend Parsons School of Design. In 1991, they arrived in Italy where in 1994, after numerous collaborations with major fashion houses, they first staged their debut runway collection. It marked the first in a long line of runway extravaganzas that would capture the attention of journalists and buyers for their unique blend of fashion, music and theatre.
The Catens went on to build a multi-million dollar business. And to dress everyone from Madonna in her iconic western video clip, “Don’t Tell Me”, to Beyoncé for her Super Bowl performance. The duo also has an impressive range, all the way to dressing the four-time English Premiership Champions, Manchester City. And a great HQ, a former electric energy headquarters converted into office, show-space, inn, gym and rooftop restaurant with swimming pool. They have become one of the city’s great fashion institutions without ever losing the DNA of the Wild North. And famed for their ovations, where they take their bow in matching outfits – whether disco dragoons, Klondike trappers or matinee idols.
Leave it to the Canadian duo to stage an epic 30th anniversary show in Milan this past season, the cast marching out of a wrecked brick garage, or arriving in a series of mighty wheels. From armored personnel carriers and Ford Mustang convertibles to an all-silver DeLorean and a vintage Rolls Royce – all took turns arriving in the huge warehouse done up like a nightclub.
All of the Caten’s great archetypes got an outing. Mad saucy trapper girls in giant puffers and lots of legs; a trio of rockers with Kiss goth makeup but in three-piece suits; Klondike gold diggers off to an all-night rave; sexy vampy rock goddesses with bumster leather pants and fur coats with trains; and a beautiful black rodeo gal with mini cocktail made of bands of Western belts. Leading to the arrival with sirens of a NYC police car, from which emerged a dominatrix leather police captain played by Brigitte Nielsen escorting two white collar criminals. You guessed it – Dean and Dan. Before, amid huge roars, JT and Doechii took the floor in a call-and-response duet surrounded by the entire cast.
Renzo Rosso’s fashion holding company OTB suffered a setback in 2024, seeing revenues fall 4.4 percent at constant exchange rates to 1.8 billion euros, recording EBITDA of 276 million euros and EBIT of 44 million euros. Retail (+7.4 percent), Japan (+16.3 percent) and North America (+13.3 percent) held up. Among the brands in the portfolio, Maison Margiela (+4.6 percent) and Diesel (+3.2 percent) performed positively.
In the past fiscal year, the Vicenza-based company sustained investments of 77 million euros, with a focus on the expansion of the retail network and major innovation projects.
The possible departure of DSquared2 will be seen as a setback for Rosso, who has long praised the brand as a dynamic creative force. Like every season, Rosso sat front row at the 30th anniversary show in Milan on February 25.
“Staff International will continue to act with the utmost transparency and determination to protect its rights, honour its contractual commitments and safeguard its reputation, and reserves the right to take any further action,” read the last paragraph in Rosso’s company statement.
From Warsaw, with love. That could have been the footnotes for the Polish brand Magda Butrym and Swedish behemoth H&M‘s celebration of their collaboration, which is set to debut on April 24.
Magda Butrym and VIP guests at H&M’s rose-themed celebration in Brooklyn. – Photo credit: Lucas Possiede / H&M
The celebration took place in an architecturally stunning former bank reminiscent of European spaces and was attended by a mainly female crowd with VIP guests such as Chloë Sevigny, Iris Law, Irina Shayk, and German influencer and model Nara Smith. It featured performances by Charlotte Lawrence and Kelela.
FashionNetwork.com caught up with the designer and H&M’s creative advisor, Ann-Sofie Johansson, to discuss this latest pair-up.
Ann-Sofie Johansson and Magda Butrym at H&M’s collaboration event in Brooklyn. – Photo credit: BFA / H&M
“She’s brilliant and the first Polish designer we’ve collaborated with. It’s great to find talent all over the world, outside of the four fashion cities, and show their creativity,” Johansson said in between photos of VIP guests. “It’s also nice to pick someone that might not be known outside of the fashion industry, and she is also a woman owning and operating an independent brand. Her designs are beautiful and feminine, and our customers will love them,” she added.
Despite collaborating with designer brands for over 20 years, the Swedish retailer still finds each unique. “With Magda, it was quite intimate because she has a small team of designers and pattern makers. Our first meeting was in Warsaw; our team had never been there. So, it was nice to see her within her city and vibe,” she added.
Seeing her in her element influenced the event, as did serendipitous logistics as Butrym headed to New York for her project. “It all came together here, and New York is New York. Everyone wants to come here to experience all the energy here, including all the people,” Johansson continued.
Despite being in New York City, the Swedes and Butrym gave the event a magical fantasy vibe. As guests entered the landmark 1929 Byzantine-Romanesque-style former Williamsburgh Savings Bank located in Fort Greene, Brooklyn—with its cavernous 60-foot vaulted ceilings, arched windows, mosaic floors, tinted glass windows, and a 17-year-old Polish opera prodigy from Chicago singing from the balcony—it was easy to mistake the space for a church. The room was bathed in pink lights and adorned with fresh rose sculptures, and the furniture was draped with white fabrics. As a centerpiece and nod to Butrym’s signature rose was a massive pink fabric sculpture resembling a rose that hung from the ceiling.
Ann-Sofie Johansson, H&M’s creative advisor, at the rose-filled venue in Brooklyn. – Photo credit: BFA / H&M
“Each event has to reflect the designer,” Johansson said of the ambiance. “We want to enter the designer’s universe, their world. The rose, for example, is one of Magda’s signatures. So, what she wants that can ‘rhyme’ with H&M is what we stand for. In her case, it’s about beauty, and we need some beauty right now,” she added.
For Butrym, the past week spent in New York—with husband and child in tow—has been a bit surreal and busy, as she just opened a Magda Butrym pop-up store in SoHo, marking her second retail venture, as she opened a flagship store in Warsaw last year.
“When we drove over the Brooklyn Bridge to get here tonight, it hit me, and I still don’t believe it even now that I’m saying it. It’s overwhelming,” Butrym said, describing her awe of being in the Big Apple for such important brand moments. “The pop-up is so adorable; it’s all done in crochet and really romantic,” she added.
According to the designer, the Swedish team at H&M made things seamless. “They sent us a document of their thoughts about the brand and what they love. Since I am making a new collection every three months, it was really helpful because I didn’t have time to go back to the archives,” Butrym said as her guests posed for photos in front of the giant rose and sipped pink cocktails and champagne.
“It was a great exercise for me and my team because when you do the main collection, you are constantly pushing the thing. It was revisiting these styles and imagining them differently. So, let’s show the flower in a different way or a different style in a new shape. This was adapting it to something else, thinking, what would people love to have? The clients see my designs on celebrities; now they will have this part of my world. This project was a pleasure for me,” she added.
The collection includes a sexy, clingy red dress with rosettes on the bust worn by Law and another rouge style worn by Smith, recalling a bouquet of roses. Shayk wore sharp black tailoring, while Gray wore a black jersey top with a sculptural flower detail at the neck and a matching long-line skirt. Valentina Sampaio wore the collection’s striking burgundy leather trench, and Sevigny wore a stretch mini dress with the collection’s iconic rose print.
Butrym was also thrilled about bringing the opera singer to share some Polish culture. “She was singing in Polish, so it’s very important to me. You hear Polish songs. It’s amazing that this little country has a moment here in Brooklyn,” she reflected.
With the return of Stockholm Fashion Week, it would seem fitting that the designer shows there, but Johansson doesn’t imagine that happening. “She’s on the official Paris schedule and has shown there for the first time. That is a big thing, so I am sure Magda will continue with that,” Johansson said. In any case, while it sounds like she will stick with her European allies for her new collection debuts, thanks to Sweden, the rest of the world will have a chance to discover Butrym’s oeuvre.
Bigger and better continues to be the theme among major retailers and Primark’s expanded new space at the White Rose Shopping Centre in Leeds is being billed as “significant” by landlord Landsec.
Photo, Sandra Halliday
Expected to be complete in 2027, the doubling of Primark’s Rose White footprint (from 26,200 sq ft to 55,700 sq ft) “comes as many brands continue to prioritise better and bigger stores at the best-located and highest-footfall destinations across the UK”, noted Landsec.
And it’s the latest of a series of flagship brand investments at White Rose, with Primark’s expansion following JD Sports tripling its space last year with a new 15,537 sq ft store.
“This expansion and growing breadth of new retail, food, beverage and leisure experiences has contributed to Landsec reporting record-breaking footfall for the second consecutive year at White Rose Shopping Centre”, the operator said, noting that over 12 million people visited the destination in the last year, a year-on-year increase of 4.3%.
Landsec also said its retail portfolio “continues to demonstrate strong performance with occupancy now exceeding pre-pandemic levels at 96% and regularly outperforming industry footfall benchmarks”.
Primark has also begun expanding the ‘lifestyle’ aspect of its retail offer, announcing the opening of its first-ever standalone ‘Primark Home’ store in Northern Ireland in March. Spanning around 8,700 sq ft. Primark calls it an “exciting new venture marking a significant milestone”.
JD Williams and Gok Wan have launched an ‘Empowering SS25 Collection’ accompanied by a strong campaign targeting women in midlife.
That campaign, ‘We See You’, launches after a survey revealed 60% of women “feel invisible in midlife… especially while shopping for clothes or in social situations with younger generations”.
And the retailer and stylist add: “Midlife isn’t about slowing down or feeling apologetic for wanting to be seen – it’s about embracing a new chapter full of confidence, adventure, and self-assurance”.
Developed using insight “from hours of customer research, the campaign is a new, more confident expression of the brand’s midlife specialism”.
The campaign “aims to shatter outdated stereotypes” and “celebrates the rebellious spirit, energy, and effortless style of midlife women, empowered, stylish, and unapologetically themselves”.
“Redefining the midlife dress code”, the collection features “vibrant swimwear, effortlessly chic tailoring, and stylish yet comfortable dresses” with options for every occasion”
It will drop throughout April, May and June on jdwilliams.co.uk in sizes 8-32 and starting from £18 in price.
Esme Stone, head of Brand at JD Williams said: “For too long, midlife women have been overlooked by fashion brands and misrepresented by society. It’s time to flip the script.
“Midlife isn’t about slowing down or feeling apologetic for wanting to feel seen – it’s about embracing a new chapter full of confidence, adventure, and self-assurance. Our ‘We See You’ campaign is about celebrating and empowering women who are rewriting the rules and embracing this vibrant life stage with unapologetic style and strength.
Stone added: “Every piece has been curated to empower women to dress with confidence, embrace bold colours, and make a statement wherever they go.”