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French apparel group Kaporal placed into judicial liquidation 18 months after management-led takeover

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Translated by

Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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March 29, 2025

The Marseille commercial court ordered the judicial liquidation of French denim brand Kaporal on March 27, marking the end of the company’s operations. The ruling follows an 18-month management-led takeover and affects 280 employees.

Kaporal shuts down – Kaporal

As of March 28, Kaporal’s e-commerce site displays a closure message:
“Permanently closed. This site is no longer active. Thank you for your trust and support. See you soon, here or somewhere else!”

The liquidation ruling definitively halts the company’s activity. At its peak, Kaporal operated over 60 stores in France. According to the local newspaper, La Provence, the court did not permit business continuation under new terms.

The ruling brings an end to the company’s short-lived recovery effort. In July 2023, three senior managers took over the brand through a court-approved restructuring plan, aiming to save 78 out of 85 stores and retain 395 of the 434 employees. Since then, the company has further scaled back, focusing on restoring its denim heritage and reconnecting with its Southern French roots.

In 2023, Kaporal returned to trade shows and launched a Gen Z-focused collection under the name KPLR. Although it remained in the red during the fiscal year, the company significantly reduced its losses. The court acknowledged the turnaround efforts and authorized an exit from collective proceedings following a six-month observation period.

“Since the takeover, the team worked relentlessly to revive the brand, with a renewed focus on style and the popular, warm values that define Kaporal,” the company stated in a letter shared with FashionNetwork.com.

“By returning to our denim roots and embracing bold collaborations, we reignited creative energy, clarified our brand identity, and reinforced our position in the market. We managed to modernize the offer without losing Kaporal’s authenticity—rooted in Mediterranean culture and, especially, its love for Marseille. Unfortunately, today’s economic conditions make it impossible to continue this work within the current framework.”

Kaporal had set an ambitious revenue target of €60 million, requiring sustained double-digit growth, which it ultimately failed to achieve. Although broader conditions in the French fashion retail sector have been challenging, the company has not disclosed specific reasons behind the decision to cease operations.

In the same letter, the leadership expressed gratitude to teams in France and abroad, acknowledging their commitment and resilience:
“Their dedication kept the business going and drove the necessary transformation. We also want to thank our partners, suppliers, and customers for their unwavering support and trust.”

It remains unclear whether a buyer will step in to acquire Kaporal’s assets, including the brand name.

Founded in 2004 by a Marseille-based family with roots in denim manufacturing, Kaporal posted €99 million in revenue in 2022 but struggled with persistent losses, which led to its restructuring. In 2023, founder Laurent Emsellem—who led the company until 2013, following its acquisition by TowerBrook Capital Partners—made an unsuccessful attempt to repurchase the brand, proposing to retain 281 employees and 70% of the store network.

Other Marseille-based denim players, including Golden Blue, owner of Le Temps des Cerises, expressed interest in the brand. The case also drew attention from Guerrida—operator of Frishop and Tritex—and off-price chain Noz, which explored acquiring Kaporal’s stock.

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END. plans packed year of events for 20th anniversary

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END. promised it would be going big on its 20th anniversary celebrations and judging by the fashion retailer’s itinerary of events it’s actually huge.

With three events already under its belt in the January-March period, there are over 20 in the pipeline for the rest of the year involving a programme of curated events, pop-ups, activations, collaborations and partnerships “crafted hand-in-hand with brand partners who have journeyed with END. over the last 20 years”.

Participants include a host of big brands including A Bathing Ape, Adidas, Aries, CP Company, Crocs, Needles, Puma, Salomon, Stone Island, Umbro, Universal Works, Y-3, “and many more”.

It’s all in recognition of a brand that has grown from an independent in Newcastle to an international name with flagship locations in Newcastle, Glasgow, Manchester, London, and Milan, “defining its position as a trailblazer bridging the gap between luxury and streetwear, balancing exclusivity with accessibility with its signature curation of the world’s biggest brands to the most sought-after emerging labels all under one roof”.

The 20th anniversary will also honour the brand’s North East roots and the best of British subculture “focusing on narratives deeply connected to the retailer’s heritage, customers and cultural influences, touching on nostalgic themes from the coast to the corner shop and nightlife to the classic British pub”.

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Coats Group announces ‘strategic exit from US Yarns’

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Global threads manufacturing giant Coats Group is quitting its US Yarns business, resulting the closure of its Performance Materials (PM) facility based in Kings Mountain, North Carolina. 

It comes after a strategic review of the wider Americas yarns business that has already resulted in the closure of the Toluca, Mexico facility in December. The review, which started in Q4 2024, concludes that the Americas Yarns business doesn’t fit with Coats’ future strategy, noting the exit from this non-core operation “will result in a positive annualised impact to both the PM and Group adjusted EBIT margins”. 

The exit process is expected to complete in Q2 and Coats said it anticipates to generate a modest cash inflow, after closure costs, that will “allow management to focus on driving forward and growing other parts of the group’s attractive portfolio.

In 2024, revenues and EBIT for US Yarns was $68 million and $3 million, respectively.

Last month, Coats delivered a trading statement that highlighted “strong delivery, exciting medium-term targets with compounding cash and earnings growth”.

While the business reported a string of positives for the year ended 31 December (total revenues up 8% to $1.5 billion; apparel and footwear revenues up 13%; EBIT up 16%), it also noted that the PM business continued to drag across all North America end markets while there was also structural softness in North American Yarns.

The writing was perhaps on the wall for the future of its US PM ops in a statement that included that its Americas manufacturing footprint had been “right-sized” in Q4 with the closure of the Toluca site “to align to structural softness in North American Yarns [that will] drive immediate margin improvement”.

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Poland’s top fashion retailer LPP aims to double revenue by 2027

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April 3, 2025

Poland’s biggest fashion retailer aims to double its revenue to 40 billion zlotys ($10.56 billion) by 2027, driven by the rapid expansion of budget brand Sinsay and its omnichannel strategy, it said on Thursday.

Reuters

“In three years we assume the company will be twice as big,” CEO Marek Piechocki said during a press conference.

Under LPP‘s new three year strategy through 2027, Sinsay is set to account for 75% of the group’s total sales, it said.

The Gdansk-based retailer aims to expand its store network to around 7,500 outlets by the end of 2027, with Sinsay stores making up around 6,000 of those, and to increase e-commerce sales to 10 billion zlotys in the same period.

“As in previous years, the company intends to consistently pursue its policy of sharing the profit generated with its shareholders,” LPP said, indicating plans to maintain its dividend payouts.
The management recommended a dividend of 660 zlotys per share to be paid for the 2024 financial year.

The company also aims to double its core earnings (EBITDA) by 2027, compared to last year’s 3.67 billion zlotys, while keeping its debt levels safe, it said.

LPP’s revenue rose by 20% to 20.19 billion zlotys in 2024.

 

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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