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Willy Chavarria touts strong POV to fashion students during talk

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Since launching his brand in 2015, Willy Chavarria has earned a reputation for putting on a thought-provoking and wildly expressive show. So, it’s no surprise that during a chat at Parsons School of Design hosted by fashion veteran (and de facto fashion fairy godmother) and Parsons board member Julie Gilhart, one guest, a fan who knows the designer’s penchant for street casting, auditioned for Willy’s next runway show there on the floor of the Tishman Auditorium. The design school will honor Chavarria at the 76th annual Parsons Benefit on May 20, 2025.

Willy Chavarria and Julie Gilhart on stage at Parsons alongside design collaborators and students. – Photo by Dillon Yruegas, courtesy of Parsons School of Design

FashionNetwork.com was there to witness the discussion between the industry veterans. Based on the bevy of students who asked questions, Chavarria greatly inspired the next generation of designers, Latino and otherwise, with his brand ethos to “raise people, to make people feel good, and to celebrate human dignity as its foundation.”

Q&A session with Willy Chavarria.
Q&A session with Willy Chavarria. – Photo by Dillon Yruegas, courtesy of Parsons School of Design

“Unfortunately, many brands neglect to have a point of view in the world, which can be risky because of how divided and divisive the ideologies are, whether left or right. Most brands are afraid to lose one of those sides, so they play it safe, and then it is boring because there’s no point of view. It’s safe to say that fashion is predominantly boring,” said Chavarria, noting that his success proves that you can have a strong POV and still be successful.

That said, being provocative does have limits if you want to sell clothes. “I’m running and growing a business, and I believe you can take a position on humanity and still grow a business. At some point, I think we all have a decision in living in the world: whether we live in the city or pick up weapons and fight somewhere. There are different levels of existence, and my level of existence is doing what I do in a way that gives back the best I can,” he said when asked how far is too far. He noted that if you want to earn a living, you may have to be mindful of the more corporate voice, especially when working with brands such as Adidas and Ralph Lauren.

He also suggested something the administration might consider. “There is a corporate word, emotional maturity. But there’s an emotional maturity that I’m surprised you don’t get taught in school. It comes with how you work with others and interact, which only comes with experience. I learned that, and I’m still learning that,” he added. “I loved everything I learned in school and feel lucky for that, but I learned so much in the workforce. Those two things together will make you well-rounded and full.” The designer also remembered hearing the late Willi Smith give a talk as a student.

Julie Gilhart and Willy Chavarria in conversation during the Parsons School of Design talk.
Julie Gilhart and Willy Chavarria in conversation during the Parsons School of Design talk. – Photo by Dillon Yruegas, courtesy of Parsons School of Design

Chavarria is also a proponent of the traditional brand ownership/launching route: “I didn’t start my own brand until I was 47. So many people think they must start a brand right out of school to succeed. Everyone has their path, but I firmly believe in getting as much information and knowledge under your belt as possible so you have the confidence to launch your own thing. You may discover that you don’t want to do your own thing, and I wouldn’t blame anyone. There are so many facets of the industry, whether a designer, a stylist, a pattern maker, or in the digital sphere, which is so far-reaching.

“There’s nothing worse than seeing people who think they know everything trying to do it and just not working out, losing money and losing time and not having the growth that you might need to go through to be able to take failure. Although failure is not quite what I believe in, failure is a part of good and success. You got to fall and get back up,” he continued.

Staffing a team is also part of Chavarria’s oeuvre, which has a namesake label, and he gave the young crowd some hiring tips. “I look for talent; I look for integrity. I am looking for what the opposite of laziness is. I hate laziness. I look for good people. We have a pretty good studio vibe. If somebody’s an a**hole, they easily don’t last,” he noted.

The next generation may not be so tied to traditional genders, but Chavarria advises that many fashion-buying offices are. “The system is so deeply structured with gender identities that we’ve got men’s and women’s collections, men’s and women’s stores, and men’s and women’s design. It’s challenging from a large business perspective to sell things that will sell in different places. But for the most part, my collections are for whoever wants to wear them,” he said, noting he designates the collection in several groupings according to whom it is most typically designed for.

“There is diversity in my brand, staff, community, and chosen family. Whether it’s masculine, feminine, queer, or trans, the overarching theme is love. The message might be Latino, queen and Chicano and these different varieties of things, but it’s really about a bigger voice of love; I truly believe love is the global message,” he continued.

He warned the students that there will always be challenges, but with experience comes better navigation. “You learn to get better at managing them. It was always financial because I’m self-financed; I don’t come from generational wealth. I took jobs that paid well, saved money, and was financially strategic. I made many mistakes, lost money, and often did things incorrectly. Ultimately, I learned that forming relationships and building what I wanted to do with others who believed in the same vision led me to something bigger. The people that I worked with for years are still very close friends. The brand’s identity, the brand’s message, and the vibe and the aesthetic that came before the business part of it were together, and I just kept pushing that along,” he stressed.

The talk also previewed clips from two of Chavarria’s recent film slash shows, “Safe from Harm” and “Tarantula,” which was the designer’s first show in Paris (though he promised his roots are in New York).

Willy Chavarria connects with attendees after the talk.
Willy Chavarria connects with attendees after the talk. – Photo by Dillon Yruegas, courtesy of Parsons School of Design.

The latter film featured a clip with a recording of Bishop Mariann Edgar Budde’s plea to Trump and his administration not to vilify or, worse, deport illegal immigrants who do the grunt work U.S. citizens don’t wish to and or to demonize the LGBTQ community, which includes family and children. “We can be courageous and still be loving and good and full of joy, but we do have to be strong. We’re seeing the world change to one that is oppressive and working just to strip us of our identities,” Chavarria cautioned.

Chavarria described his upbringing in a Mexican town and in a traditional-values Mexican American household that hung up an image of farm workers’ rights champion Cesar Chavez. As a biracial queer person, “I was already very different than this background,” he noted, adding his introverted nature, observing from the outside, helped foster his visual creativity.

“I credit my family with my commitment to my work and having a path to social justice. It was important to me to give value to those who aren’t seen as valuable; Latino people, Black people, queer people, trans people, all the people that, for centuries, have been given the bad end of the stick. I use my Latino culture, elevate it, and make it as beautiful as possible. We want to share all real beauty to see ourselves as truly beautiful as we’re starting to see ourselves in media, film, magazines, etc. We start to believe we are that and in a positive light. If all the movies about Mexicans show Mexicans as criminals or are about the cartel, we need to show ourselves how beautiful we are.”

Julie Gilhart and Willy Chavarria following their thought-provoking session at Parsons.
Julie Gilhart and Willy Chavarria following their thought-provoking session at Parsons. – Photo by Dillon Yruegas, courtesy of Parsons School of Design

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Neiman Marcus and Ralph Lauren launch Patchwork Americana collection

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Neiman Marcus and Ralph Lauren have teamed up to launch an exclusive collection that reinterprets the classic patchwork motif with elevated craftsmanship and contemporary appeal. 

Neiman Marcus and Ralph Lauren launch Patchwork Americana collection.
Neiman Marcus and Ralph Lauren launch Patchwork Americana collection. – Neiman Marcus x Ralph Lauren

Dubbed “Patchwork Americana”, the 52-piece assortment, spanning men’s, women’s, and children’s fashion, marks Ralph Lauren’s first-ever exclusive collection for the luxury retailer, reinforcing a shared vision of American luxury and style.

Standout pieces from the women’s collection includes a sequined flag sweater featuring an exclusive Neiman Marcus emblem, pearl-beaded floral-etched denim, and a patchwork sequin skirt. Completing the collection is a meticulously tailored patchwork suit and an embellished strapless gown.

For men, Ralph Lauren’s signature aesthetic shines through in a palette of deep blues and creams. Key pieces include a tonal palm leaf jacquard jacket, a silk-blend cardigan, the brand’s iconic flag sweater, and a blue Japanese cotton chambray suit.

The children’s collection continues this blend of classic Americana and effortless elegance, featuring a standout Italian cashmere flag sweater alongside an array of styles featuring intricate patchwork details, vibrant colors and whimsical patterns.

“Ralph Lauren’s impact on American fashion is beyond measure. He has forever altered the fashion landscape with a unique vision of relaxed elegance, infusing an old-world sophistication with refreshing modernity, and we are honored to collaborate with Ralph Lauren on a collection created exclusively for our clientele,” said Paolo Riva, chief brand partnerships and buying officer, Saks Global. 

“This exclusive collection celebrates the long-standing partnership and admiration between Neiman Marcus and Ralph Lauren, with brand signatures like patchwork denim and easy shirting reimagined into extraordinary wardrobe heroes.”

The collection launches with a dedicated Ralph Lauren installation on the second floor of Neiman Marcus NorthPark, in Dallas, and is available exclusively at select Neiman Marcus locations, online, and through remote selling. 

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Puma parts ways with CEO Arne Freundt, appoints ex-Adidas exec Arthur Hoeld

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There was no second chance for Arne Freundt. Appointed CEO of the German equipment manufacturer in 2022, the 40-year-old had to deal with results that displeased the financial markets.

After announcing his 2025 forecasts of 1% to 5% growth, Puma’s share price suffered the biggest decline in its history, falling back to its 2016 level on March 12. The hype surrounding the stars of the Paris Olympics, such as pole vaulter Mondo Duplantis, the signing of a contract with the English Premier League and the announced reorganization plan have not convinced Puma’s board of directors, which announced on Thursday that the supervisory board and Arne Freundt had “reached a mutual agreement” to end their collaboration. This will take effect on April 11.

Arthur Hoeld, new CEO of Puma – Puma

To succeed him, the German group looked across the Aurach, the river that separates the Puma and Adidas headquarters in the town of Herzogenaurach. Arthur Hoeld, a long-standing executive of the world’s No. 2 sports company, will take over as CEO and chairman of the group management board on July 1.

Aged 55, the former handball player and athlete spent 26 years with the three-stripes brand, leaving his last role as global sales director last October.

“I’m very excited to join the Puma family as the new CEO. Puma is one of the most authentic brands in our industry, with an incredibly strong heritage,” said the executive in a statement.
“Its products worn by the best athletes have created unforgettable moments. Sporting authenticity and an exciting brand proposition will be our main objectives going forward.”

In its press release, Puma highlighted in particular the executive’s work at the helm of Adidas Originals, which under his leadership achieved sales of €7 billion.

Matthias Bäumer
Matthias Bäumer – Puma

“We are delighted to appoint Arthur Hoeld, a proven sports industry expert with solid commercial expertise over the past 26 years, as CEO of Puma. We are convinced that with his strategic vision and focus on products and brand, Arthur will lead Puma into a new chapter of strength and growth,” said Héloïse Temple-Boyer, who chairs the group’s supervisory board, in a press release.

“On behalf of the entire Board, I would also like to thank Arne Freundt for all his achievements and for the commitment and dedication he has shown over the past 14 years. We wish him all the best in his future endeavors.”

In parallel with his appointment, the group announced the promotion on April 1 of Matthias Bäumer, who was vice president, team sports, to group sales director.

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Trump’s tariffs to lift companies’ costs and hurt exports

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Reuters

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April 3, 2025

Businesses around the globe on Thursday faced up to a future of higher prices, trade turmoil and reduced access to the world’s largest market after U.S. President Donald Trump confirmed their worst fears by instituting broad tariffs worldwide.

Reuters

Trump ramped up his trade war with tariff rates from 10% to nearly 50%. He says the levies will bring jobs back to the United States – but company executives were focused on possibly raising prices, reducing shipments, or cutting back investment activity outright.

“The reality is stark: these tariffs will push prices higher on thousands of everyday goods – from phones to food – and that will fuel inflation at a time when it is already uncomfortably persistent,” said Nigel Green, CEO of global financial advisory deVere Group.

Shipping companies, one of the main conduits of global trade, were among the first to sound the alarm on Thursday while many other business leaders kept a low profile as they pondered the new reality.

“The tariff plan announced by the U.S. administration was significant, and in its current form, it clearly isn’t good news for (the) global economy, stability and trade,” Maersk, the world’s second-largest container shipping firm, said.

“It is still too early to say with any confidence how this will ultimately unfold,” the Danish company added.

German container shipping firm Hapag-Lloyd also said that tariffs could affect demand, cargo flows and costs. The world’s fifth biggest container liner said it could be forced to adjust its service network in response.

Those fears were echoed by Dirk Jandura, president of Germany’s BGA association, representing importers and exporters.

“We will have to translate the tariffs into price increases, and in many cases that means a drop in sales,” he said.

Trump sees tariffs as a way of protecting the U.S. economy from unfair global competition and a bargaining chip for better terms of trade.

The most common method of dealing with tariffs is to raise prices, passing along the cost to customers as far as possible. Other companies may try to diversify supply chains, but Trump’s additional 34% tariff on China was accompanied by 46% and 49% tariffs on Vietnam and Cambodia, respectively – all Asian countries where companies had been shifting output.

Shares in Western sportswear brands Nike, Adidas and Puma all dropped sharply on Thursday as Vietnam, Indonesia, and China are leading markets for them to source products.

Shares in Apple fell 7% in Frankfurt, reflecting concerns over the iPhone maker’s big manufacturing base in China.

In the U.S., retailers Target and Best Buy have said they will have to raise prices, but their margins are more likely to be squeezed, and Target and Walmart have been trying to negotiate with Chinese suppliers already dealing with a slowed economy.

U.S. drinkers will pay more for cocktails, champagne and foreign beers, brands will disappear from bar menus and jobs will be lost on both sides of the Atlantic, drinks industry bodies said.

Some European companies that primarily serve higher-income consumers were planning to raise prices even before confirmation of the 20% tariffs on European Union imports.

Italy’s Illy Caffe and Ferrari have both said they will lift prices, calculating premium coffee drinkers and sports car buyers will be able to absorb the extra cost.

Lavazza, another Italian coffee maker, said it could accelerate plans to expand its plant in the U.S., but the company must first assess the impact of potential tariffs on green beans from Brazil.
Giovanna Ceolini, head of Confindustria Accessori Moda, which represents Italian companies in the footwear, leather, fur and tannery industry, said that U.S. tariffs come when companies are already struggling with increased costs.

“We are afraid that for our companies there will be a slowdown (in demand). It will depend on whether Americans are willing to pay a little more (for our goods),” she said.
Jefferies analysts anticipate a 6% increase in U.S. luxury prices as companies seek to protect margins.

The White House says tariffs will encourage more onshoring, similar to the revamped USMCA trade deal Trump signed during his first term that encouraged manufacturing activity to shift from China to Mexico or Canada.

German fan and motor maker ebm-papst, for example, is deliberating whether to build a third production plant or expand its existing site in Tennessee.

CEO Klaus Geissdoerfer said he had initially thought of a new plant in Mexico, but “some are saying, ‘maybe it’s better to go to the USA after all because we’ll have to pay customs duty in Mexico’.”
The most severe risk, according to executives interviewed by Reuters, is that businesses simply stop investing.
 

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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