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Post-COVID surge wanes as global department store sales drop 1.6%

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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March 26, 2025

According to data from the International Association of Department Stores (IADS), which analyzed the financial performance of 59 department store chains worldwide, sales dipped by 1.6% in 2023/24 compared to 2022. The outlook for 2025 remains uncertain.

After a strong rebound following the pandemic in 2020, the global department store sector is showing signs of slowing down. The latest Economic Observatory report from the International Association of Department Stores (IADS) reveals a 1.6% decline in global department store sales for the 2023/24 fiscal year compared to the previous year.

The report is based on publicly available financial data from 59 department store groups worldwide, including El Palacio de Hierro in Mexico, Macy’s in the United States, Dashang in China, Isetan in Japan, Magasin du Nord in Denmark, and El Corte Inglés in Spain.

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“In 2024, the global economy—including the retail industry—has faced significant market uncertainty, sluggish economic growth, and unfavorable interest rates across all regions. The post-COVID-19 peak seen in 2021 and 2022 is now behind us, and overall retail growth has stabilized. Department stores have followed this trend, albeit with regional variations,” the federation explained.

In the Americas, sales have remained flat, but a clear divergence has emerged: department stores owned by large groups have seen revenues decline. At the same time, independent retailers have reported slight year-over-year sales growth, according to the report.

In the Asia-Pacific region, department store revenues declined due to a regional slowdown, particularly in Japan, South Korea, and Hong Kong. However, India and the Philippines bucked the trend, posting positive sales growth.

Europe followed a similar pattern, with both corporate-owned and independent department stores reporting an average growth of less than 1%.

Department store sales trends by region: Group-owned stores (top), independent stores (bottom)
Department store sales trends by region: Group-owned stores (top), independent stores (bottom) – IADS

Despite the challenges, the share of revenue generated by department stores within their parent companies’ total sales has stabilized globally, returning close to pre-pandemic levels. This is mainly due to a drop in total sales across parent companies after the 2021–2022 peak, driven by weakened purchasing power and a slowdown in the luxury sector.

Looking ahead, 2025 presents new uncertainties for department stores, particularly due to shifts in U.S. trade policy.

“The election of Donald Trump as president of the United States and the imminence of new tariffs will likely reshape global retail supply chains. While inflation has eased in some economies, the U.S. market remains concerned about stagflation despite Trump’s pro-growth agenda. The global impact will be significant, with the European Union, China, and Canada, among other countries, already discussing potential trade retaliation,” the federation noted. It warned that the 2025 outlook for department stores could see a sharper decline than in 2024.

Amid these concerns, IADS highlighted the rising impact of emerging Asian markets, particularly Vietnam and India, in the global retail landscape. Department store expansion remains strong, with Galeries Lafayette planning to open in Mumbai this year and in Delhi by 2026.

In Europe, sustainability regulations are set to reshape the retail industry. “Revised sustainability directives require retailers to conduct comprehensive environmental reporting and compliance reviews by 2028,” the report stated. These regulations add to the sector’s existing challenges, including omnichannel transformation, experiential retail initiatives, and adapting to shifting consumer preferences.

*IADS represents a network of department stores worldwide, including Beijing Hualian Group (China), Bloomingdale’s (U.S.), Boyner (Turkey), Breuninger (Germany), Centro Beco (Venezuela), Chalhoub (UAE), El Corte Inglés (Spain), El Palacio de Hierro (Mexico), Falabella (Chile, Colombia, Peru), Galeries Lafayette (France), Lifestyle International Holding (Hong Kong), Magasin du Nord (Denmark), Manor (Switzerland), The Mall Group (Thailand), and TSUM Kyiv (Ukraine).                                                                         

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Good American opens first Atlanta store

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Good American, the global fashion brand co-founded by Khloé Kardashian and Emma Grede, has opened its first store in Atlanta. 

Good American opens first Atlanta store. – Good American

Located in Lenox Square Mall, the 2,757-square-foot space was designed with New York-based architecture firm MG2 to create a warm and inviting shopping environment.

Notable store features include custom-branded hangers that adjust to accommodate merchandise of all sizes, size-inclusive fitting rooms, and trained staff to ensure expert guidance on fit and product recommendations.

“The opening of our first-ever Good American Atlanta store is a key milestone in our strategic retail expansion. Atlanta’s dynamic market aligns perfectly with our vision to reach new customers and a tangible expression of our commitment to sustainable growth and redefining the retail experience,” said Grede. 

“Atlanta has always been an important market for Good American and i’m so excited to bring our vision to life in this city and meet our customers in person here!”

Known for its inclusive approach to denim, Good American has built a loyal following by prioritizing fit, comfort, and body diversity. The Atlanta location is designed to bring that mission to life in a physical retail space and is part of the brand’s wider global store expansion plans.

Good American opened its first retail location at Westfield Century City Mall in Los Angeles. It has since opened stores in Las Vegas at The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace and Newport Beach, California, at Fashion Island mall.

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Sneaker maker On’s co-CEO Marc Maurer to depart

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April 1, 2025

Roger Federer-backed On Holding said on Tuesday its co-CEO Marc Maurer has decided to depart after 12 years with the Switzerland-based sportswear company.

Mark Maurer – On

On said it will transition to a single-CEO structure, with current co-CEO and Chief Financial Officer Martin Hoffmann taking the helm effective July 1, 2025. Hoffmann would continue as CFO while the company looks for a new finance head.

Maurer will stay in his role until June 30 and will continue to advise the co-founders of the company, David Allemann and Caspar Coppetti, as well as the board until March 2026.

Under Maurer and Hoffmann, On went public in 2021, and its running shoes have become customer favorites, challenging rivals and taking market share from sportswear giants such as Nike and Adidas.

In March, On topped fourth-quarter sales and profit expectations as its brand awareness initiatives helped drive strong holiday demand for its shoes and sportswear offerings.

It has benefited from efforts to expand its product lines at retailers such as Foot Locker and Dick’s Sporting Goods, while also doubling down on its own stores to boost sales.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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US tariffs on Vietnam would be a blow to Nike and other sportswear brands

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Reuters

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April 1, 2025

Nike could soon face another blow in its effort to revive its brand and reverse a long decline in sales: U.S. tariffs on imports from Vietnam.

Reuters

On Wednesday, U.S. President Donald Trump is expected to announce which countries and products he will target with a new round of tariffs aimed at encouraging domestic production and coaxing other nations to buy more U.S. goods.

Vietnam, which runs a $123.5 billion trade surplus with the United States, is a prime target.

Nike is one of several sportswear brands heavily reliant on Vietnam as a production site and higher tariffs would force the company to absorb higher costs or hike its prices at a time when it is already discounting some items to clear inventory.

Nike produced 50% of its footwear and 28% of its apparel in Vietnam in its 2024 financial year, according to its annual report. Rival Adidas, opens new tab is slightly less exposed, relying on Vietnam for 39% of its footwear and 18% of its apparel.

The average U.S. tariff rate on footwear from Vietnam is 13.6%, while the rate on apparel is 18.8%, according to calculations, opens new tab based on January trade data made by Sheng Lu, professor of fashion and apparel studies at the University of Delaware.

“If tariffs are extended there, then Nike’s got a problem,” said Morningstar analyst David Swartz.
Nike and Adidas are hardly alone. Vietnam has become a hub for high-tech running shoes, sportswear, and outdoor apparel as brands have sought to reduce exposure to China, opens new tab.
Lululemon, opens new tab, Columbia Sportswear, and Amer Sports, opens new tab, which owns Salomon and Arc’Teryx, count Vietnam as their top manufacturing country.

But the potential tariffs come at a critical moment for Nike, which has lost market share of late to competitors viewed as fresher and more innovative, like On and Hoka.

In a quarterly earnings call last month, Chief Financial Officer Matt Friend said Nike’s revenue was expected to continue to fall next quarter.

That outlook factored in current tariffs, said Mari Shor, senior equities analyst with Columbia Threadneedle Investments, which holds Nike shares. “But what if it gets worse?”

Some smaller, younger sportswear brands are even more exposed to Vietnam. Fast-growing running brand On in 2024 sourced 90% of its shoes and 60% of its apparel and accessories from the country.

On shoes are already expensive, selling for $130 to $330 a pair, and Samuel Wenger, the brand’s chief operating officer, said tariffs were among the factors On considers when deciding on price. “Our premium brand gives us the ability to adapt our pricing thoughtfully,” he told Reuters.

Average U.S. prices of sneakers have already risen by 25% since 2019, partly because of rising production costs, said Beth Goldstein, footwear industry analyst at market research firm Circana.

Wilbur Ross, who served as commerce secretary in Trump’s first administration, said the president had generally good ties with Vietnam and had no reason to hit it hard with tariffs that would be felt on main street.

“People notice the cost of apparel because they buy it fairly frequently,” Ross told Reuters.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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