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Anti-fast-fashion bill to be debated by French Senate in week of May 19

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Nicola Mira

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March 20, 2025

The bill on the textile industry’s environmental impact is making progress in France, over a year after being tabled in the Senate following a unanimous vote in the National Assembly, France’s Parliament.

Government questions session at the National Assembly in Paris on November 12, 2024 – Ian LANGSDON / AFP

The date for the bill’s Senate debate was postponed sine die at the start of the year, prompting widespread discontent within environmental organisations and parts of the fashion industry. News of a fresh timetable emerged on March 19, and the bill is now expected to be discussed by the Senate in the week of May 19.

The announcement was made in the National Assembly by Véronique Louwagie, the Minister in charge of trade, crafts, SMEs, and the social and community economy, answering questions by Olivia Grégoire, MP and former minister with the same remit, about the government’s initiatives to protect companies and employees in the fashion and crafts sectors.

“There are product flows increasingly coming [into France] from foreign platforms. A new model has been created, fast fashion, which has a significant environmental, social and economic impact,” said Louwagie. “Yes, we need to act in various domains. The first is Europe. France strongly supports the revision of the threshold for exemption from customs duties on low-value parcels. It’s an issue that has to do with fighting fraud. Discussions are also ongoing at EU level on the introduction of non-discriminatory management fees to finance customs services. We must act at the national level too, this is the purpose of the bill that was examined this morning in a Senate committee and which, I’m telling you know, will probably be debated by the Senate during the week of May 19. The government is pushing in this direction,” added Louwagie.

Environmental associations put pressure on the French Senate at the end of last week, depositing textile waste near the upper chamber. On the morning of March 19, the Senate’s Regional Planning and Sustainable Development committee worked on the bill that was first drafted by MPs over a year ago. Led by Sylvie Valente-Le Hir, the bill’s rapporteur in the Senate, the committee made a series of changes that were unanimously approved.
 
“The bill now comprises several other elements, including a more precise definition of fast fashion, which focuses on the breadth of range but also the fact that the prices charged do not encourage [garment] repairs,” said Louwagie, speaking to the National Assembly. Crucially, she also indicated that fast-fashion products are set to be penalised not simply on the basis of their environmental impact, but also because of the specific commercial practices of fast-fashion e-tailers. The minister’s announcement of a possible date for the bill’s discussion was met with a sustained round of applause, confirming the interest in the issue.

Eleven amendments

The Senate committee in charge of the bill has now completed its work on the text approved by the National Assembly. Eleven amendments have been adopted, out of the 25 tabled before the committee. Some amendments were jettisoned because they were considered irrelevant or simply legislative riders. Three were rejected. One concerned raising the penalty threshold for fast-fashion products. A second aimed to incorporate, in the bill’s Article 2, the notion of “social criteria based on respect for human rights,” in addition to environmental aspects. The third, still within Article 2, was an amendment that proposed inserting a paragraph aimed at awarding a bonus based on social criteria, in addition to those attributed for improved environmental performance.
 
So what were the 11 amendments adopted by the Senate committee? They did not call into question the original spirit of the law, specifying in particular the type of practices and entities that will be targeted, notably those that “facilitate, through the use of a digital interface such as a marketplace, a website, a portal or similar device, distance selling and the delivery of products” and whose strategy is based on rapid collection turnover. It was also specified that the thresholds [applied to fast fashion] will take into account the “number of new items per unit of time, the number of different items, and the short duration of their commercialisation period.” Consumers should be informed by means of warnings placed close to product prices on the platforms in questions, regarding “[consumption] restraint, reusing, repairing, and recycling products, and raising awareness about their environmental impact.”

The bill will stipulate that a contact person for fast-fashion players must be identified in France. They must be “a natural or legal person based in France, acting as a representative responsible for ensuring compliance with the obligations relating to the extended producer responsibility scheme.” The bill provides for a system of penalties and bonuses. The Senate committee notably indicated that “financial contributions will vary … based in particular on the results obtained by applying the environmental score methodology … The eco-organisation’s specifications stipulate that the additional contributions collected will chiefly be reallocated in the form of bonuses to manufacturers of those products that meet eco-design criteria for improved environmental performance.” The bill is suggesting that penalties per product could be valued at €5 in 2025, €6 in 2026, €7 in 2027, €8 in 2028, €9 in 2029, and €10 in 2030. Such increasingly higher penalties are designed to put pressure on the sector to change. A paragraph also stipulates that part of the monies collected will be used by “eco-organisations to finance collection and recycling infrastructure in non-EU countries.”

Another area covered by the Senate committee is advertising: there is to be a ban on advertising and influencer marketing for certain players. Finally, two new articles were added to the bill (articles 6 and 7), requiring the government to produce ad hoc reports. Article 6 states that “within six months of the promulgation of this law, the Government shall submit to Parliament a report examining the opportunity of extending the carbon border adjustment mechanism to textile products manufactured outside the European Union’s territory.” This means subjecting products imported into the customs territory of the European Union to a carbon emission tariff equivalent to that applied to European manufacturers producing the same items. Finally, in the same spirit, Article 7 calls for a report to take stock after one year “of mirror measures at the borders of the European internal market to impose European health, social and environmental standards on imports of textile products with fast and very fast turnover.”

Above all, the Senate committee is keen to work towards a change in approach, and has analysed “the opportunity of reversing the burden of proof at the time of the products’ entry into the European Union; it would then be the exporter’s responsibility to prove that their products have been produced in accordance with European standards.”

Given the tense global geopolitical context, especially in the field of trade relations, the debates in the French Senate, planned for May, are likely to be both intense and delicate.

 

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Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger strengthen their presence in India with Nykaa

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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March 22, 2025

Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger are reinforcing their presence in India’s fast-growing online retail space through a partnership with Nykaa Fashion. The e-commerce platform will offer over 2,000 items from each brand, including men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, leather goods, footwear and accessories.

Nykaa Fashion adds two fashion heavyweights to its brand lineup. – Nykaa Fashion

“Bringing Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger to our platform marks a significant milestone for Nykaa Fashion,” said Adwaita Nayar, chief executive officer and head of private labels at Nykaa, in a press release. “These iconic brands have set global style standards for decades—Tommy Hilfiger with its classic preppy flair and Calvin Klein with its sleek, minimalist designs. Offering their collections allows us to introduce both timeless style and modern appeal to Indian consumers.”

Calvin Klein will debut key pieces from its Spring/Summer 2025 collection, featuring underwear, denim, apparel, signature accessories and fragrances. Tommy Hilfiger, known for its quintessential American aesthetic, will showcase a curated range of denim, occasionwear and casual looks, including pieces from its Tommy Jeans line.

With this collaboration, Nykaa strengthens its portfolio of international brands, responding to India’s rising demand for global labels. The collections will be available on the Nykaa Fashion app and website starting March 22.

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LVMH brings “You&Me” back to Italy, the tour dedicated to Métiers d’Excellence

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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March 21, 2025

The third edition of LVMH‘s “You&Me” tour has arrived in Italy, the cradle of artisanal expertise and craftsmanship. The initiative aims to showcase the group’s more than 280 Métiers d’Excellence and introduce younger generations to the craftsmanship professions at the core of the luxury manufacturing industry.

LVMH’s You&Me tour lands in Rome. – Photo: FNW/EP

 
After four dates in France that drew 7,500 visitors, “You&Me” stopped in Rome on 20 March at the Salone delle Fontane and will continue in Florence on 4 and 5 April at the Stazione Leopolda.

FashionNetwork.com attended the Rome debut, which welcomed a delegation from the French luxury group, including Toni Belloni, advisor to the LVMH CEO and president of LVMH Italy, alongside the CEOs of its major Italian maisons – Jean-Christophe Babin (Bulgari), Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou (Fendi), Giulio Bergamaschi (Acqua di Parma), Saar Debrouwere (Pucci), and Paola Faccioli (Cova) – as well as Alexandre Boquel, director of LVMH Métiers d’Excellence. The event also welcomed representatives from Italian institutions, Parliament, and Rome.

Toni Belloni, advisor to LVMH CEO and president of LVMH Italy.
Toni Belloni, advisor to LVMH CEO and president of LVMH Italy. – Photo: FNW/EP

 
“This is the first time the You&Me project has come to Rome, and when it comes to métiers of beauty, there’s no better place — everything around us here is beauty,” said Toni Belloni during his opening remarks. “Italy’s high-end manufacturing draws from this cultural heritage, rooted in artisanal guilds that have evolved over centuries into today’s vibrant industrial districts. It’s this craftsmanship that gives strength to both the country and the luxury goods industry.”

“LVMH currently has 66 manufacturing sites across Italy, employing over 15,000 people — beautiful ateliers we are incredibly proud of. These ‘lead’ companies work with more than 3,000 small Italian businesses. Often family-run, these suppliers bring high-quality production, flexibility, deep product knowledge, and a strong capacity for innovation. I describe our innovation model as an ‘open system’ — our suppliers give us new ideas every year. This ecosystem must continue evolving to keep pace with changing customer expectations.”

But for this system to thrive, new talent is essential. Belloni told FashionNetwork.com: “Altagamma’s research suggests the luxury sector will need 300,000 new hires in the coming years. This industry offers real opportunities for employment and professional growth. That’s what we need to help young people understand, and we do so through many initiatives — including You&Me.”

“Our Métiers d’Excellence Institute identifies individuals passionate about artisanal work, regardless of background. Every maison within the group has internal academies where our top experts — whom we call ‘Virtuosi’ — pass on their knowledge. In Italy, we also run the ‘Adopt a School’ program, under Altagamma’s patronage, and collaborate closely with regional institutions.”

There are many concrete examples of LVMH and its maisons’ investment in youth training and employment. “Thélios has nearly 2,000 employees—many young people from the region trained at local eyewear technical institutes. We’ve just integrated a second factory that will become a full-scale campus,” Belloni continued.

“2026 Louis Vuitton will open a new leather goods site in Pontassieve. Loro Piana is also planning a campus in Ghemme. And in April, Bulgari will inaugurate the second module of its manufacturing site in Valenza, which will eventually double both its production capacity and workforce — currently around 400 employees.”

In a nod to Bulgari’s Roman heritage, CEO Jean-Christophe Babin also took the stage during the brand’s hometown stop on the tour. He emphasized the value of craftsmanship and Italian know-how: “Bulgari is what it is today thanks to the ‘smart hands’ trained over the past 15 years at our internal Jewellery Academy in Valenza. Goldsmithing isn’t about replication — many of our pieces are one-of-a-kind. Over the years, we’ve created 1,800 new jobs, 90% of which are filled by people under 30.”
 

Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari – Photo: FNW/EP

​”There’s already a shortage of talent. Bulgari employs 20% of Valenza’s goldsmiths, and we can’t pull resources from the subcontractors who work with us. That’s why we created the Academy — to train new professionals, including those from completely unrelated fields. In the coming years, we plan to train another 700 goldsmiths, bringing the total to 2,000 since the start of the program.”

To help young people explore career opportunities within the Métiers d’Excellence, LVMH has also launched Inside LVMH, an international educational platform offering a deep dive into the group’s universe and maisons. The platform currently has over 331,000 active members, more than 125,000 certified students since 2001, and access to over 120 expert-led content pieces.

LVMH’s commitment to craftsmanship and training has also earned praise from Italian institutions. Speaking at the event, MP Federico Mollicone, chair of the Italian Parliament’s Culture, Education, and Research Commission, said: “This is an alliance in the name of beauty, art, and excellence — not only Italian, but European — rooted in history, artisanal guilds, and métiers. Today’s event sends a crucial message to young people: believe in yourselves and the support of the Italian state.”

During “You&Me,” open to students and the general public, visitors can explore LVMH’s 280+ Métiers d’Excellence through dedicated exhibition areas. These include the LVMH Musco, which showcases the group’s six business sectors through iconic maison objects; immersive pavilions where visitors can interact with craft experts; and interactive workshops and coaching sessions.

The next stop on the tour is April 4 and 5 at Stazione Leopolda in Florence.

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Printemps New York opening celebration perfects the French-American aesthetic

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Chairman Jean-Marc Bellaiche hosted the event, which welcomed NYC VIPs for a sneak peek ahead of Friday’s ribbon cutting.

Jean-Marc Bellaiche and Parker Posey at the Printemps New York opening night. – BFA, courtesy of Printemps New York

Occupy Wall Street has taken on new meaning. Instead of an economic protest movement, it’s become a retail revolution. The eagerly anticipated opening of Printemps New York arrived as spring arrived, as a tribute to its French name, hosted by Jean-Marc Bellaiche, chairman of the department store group. 

With champagne flowing like fountains, a customized Printemps ice sculpture raw bar, and delectables by hotshot Haitian-American chef Grégory Gourdet, who was enlisted to oversee the space’s culinary offerings, guests perused the breathtaking space designed by French architect Laura Gonzales, who gave it a modern art nouveau feeling awash with color, texture, and pattern.

Architect Laura Gonzalez and chef Grégory Gourdet at the Printemps New York opening.
Architect Laura Gonzalez and chef Grégory Gourdet at the Printemps New York opening. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York

FashionNetwork.com caught up with Bellaiche as the evening kicked off before the executive commenced hosting duties, including introducing Noah Cyrus, who serenaded the crowd and personally escorted Parker Posey and Katie Holmes on tours.

Noah Cyrus performing at the Printemps New York opening event.
Noah Cyrus performing at the Printemps New York opening event. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York
Katie Holmes at the Printemps New York opening.
Katie Holmes at the Printemps New York opening. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York

First and foremost, Bellaiche noted that the key difference between the Paris flagship and the New York location is its culinary offerings. “It is different, and it’s the same. It’s different because the size is much smaller, but the focus on food is stronger. We have a robust food offering in Paris, but it’s so big. To have five restaurants in the small space is something else,” Bellaiche said (though at over 43,000 square feet over two levels, the space is by no means diminutive).

He also noted that the space lacks brand boutiques. These inhabit most luxury department stores lately, robbing the space of design POV. However, there is a dedicated Jacquemus salon for the opening. Also gone are the relegated aisles; thus, once arriving at the Broadway main entrance, the first floor is a series of open displays—such as terrazzo vitrines and podiums to display accessories and clothing racks that allow a meandering sense. It also houses three eateries, though access to all on the first floor isn’t fluid. The lobby of New York’s largest commercial-to-residency building conversion sits at the ground level. The journey feels even more intriguing as one goes up and down again on the opposite side to discover the whole environment.

“The flow of the consumer journey is completely free. There are no lanes when you enter the salon; we don’t tell you where to go,” Bellaiche continued.

“There are many similarities—the attention to aesthetics, the architecture. Paris is the most beautiful store; this one is even more beautiful, and there is a lot of tribute to Paris here. For example, we brought the fresco by Atelier Roma from France, which was inspired by Paris. Origami birds are flying in the window by artist Charles Kaisin, who we work with in Paris, too,” he noted.

The undertaking, which was announced over two years ago, was nothing less than a Herculean effort, judging by the design and culinary offerings alone.

“What is tough is that when you open a store in a new country, you open a country. So, you start from scratch with new systems. You form a business, too, a new enterprise or a warehouse; everything is new. That’s a challenge. The construction was also a big challenge, but overall, it went very smoothly,” he said. In a welcome speech later, Bellaiche called out Jeffrey Yachmetz of Dilmon LLC for the trouble-free build-out.

About two hours into the event, Bellaiche spoke to the crowd from a very art nouveau-inspired gazebo made from calla lily-sculpted supports. “You all need to know how to pronounce ‘Printemps’; there will be a test later,” the chairman said as he continued to school the crowd.

“We have been reinventing retail since 1865, and this store is no exception. In Paris, we were the first to use electricity and put an elevator in the store. Imagine coming to the store to experience the first time your body is lifted from the ground. We put a ski slope on the rooftop of Printemps Paris before. First, to showcase Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs behind our windows. We know what innovation means, and as a start-up of 160 years, we are proud of this,” he continued, uttering that the new store’s tagline is, ‘This is not a department store.’

“This is a French apartment in the heart of NY, where French curation meets American hospitality. In France, we know beauty and art, but we aren’t good at welcoming people; we are aloof and distant, so let’s take the best of American warmth, welcoming, and ‘hello, welcome to NY’ approach at Printemps New York, where shopping meets culture, art, experience and food.”

Similarly, both Paris and New York have landmark status. “It’s a tough market, and competition is crowded, but there are four reasons we can bring something to the NYC retail scene. One is architecture, such as the one we inherited: the Red Room made by muralist Hildreth Meière in 1931 [it was originally made for the Irving Trust Company and closed to the public after 9/11] and the architecture that we built with star architect Laura Gonzales,” he said.

“The second is a product you will all buy tomorrow when we officially open at 11 a.m. Twenty-five percent are new to New York City or hard to find. The third is restaurants, so I want to thank Grégory Gourdet, our executive chef, for participating in this adventure. The last differentiating factor is the programming. This story will be ever-changing. We’ll have conferences, talks, pop-ups, so stay tuned for more reason to come to Printemps,” he concluded.

The welcoming spirit was undoubtedly the staff of a mosaic of New Yorkers from all generations, each with impressive luxury CVs, who were polar opposites of early-Aughts snobbish retail associates—hello Jeffrey’s New York—epitomized in an SNL skit. These eager fashion experts were friendly and knowledgeable, and they even cut a fine rug to the DJ stylings of Francesca Keller, daughter of fashion editor Elissa Santisi, as the party raged past 11 p.m.

Francesca Keller set the mood at Printemps New York’s opening night.
Francesca Keller set the mood at Printemps New York’s opening night. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York

​According to Bellaiche, Printemps defied New York’s post-pandemic retail staffing shortages. “Well, first, people are proud to work for a gem like this store. This is an extra motivation. We train them on the storytelling this store is full of. We want salespeople to be strong storytellers who know the story of Jules and Augustine Jaluzot and Printemps,” Bellaiche explained.

Knowing the Printemps story also includes learning the history of One Wall Street, formerly a bank—the Irving Trust Company—and discovering the store’s pièce de résistance: the Red Room, which houses the motherlode of the store’s women’s shoes. (Though when it comes to merchandising chez Printemps New York, toss out previous notions, as you never really know where you will discover something—say, vintage Jean Paul Gaultier couture pieces. According to a salesperson, the couturier’s mariner stripe gown with feather train on display has already sold.)

The event also welcomed Kim Shui, who explored the curated fragrance selection at Printemps New York—a fusion of fashion, beauty, and luxury.
The event also welcomed Kim Shui, who explored the curated fragrance selection at Printemps New York—a fusion of fashion, beauty, and luxury. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York

While the store was amply yet sparsely stocked, CEO Americas Laura Lendrum promised more labels after the opening due to the typical merchandise ship dates in relation to the late March opening.

Though the store is beautifully designed, one ugly truth about New York’s multi-brand and department stores in recent years is their despicable non-payment to vendors. This practice, with terms as much as four months standard or, in the case of Saks, continued non-payment even after the Neiman Marcus Group acquisition, would probably not fly in France, where tighter regulations are in place for such matters.

“In this way, we will be more French,” Bellaiche assured.

Opening a retail experience of this scale in the current climate is not for the faint of heart. But Bellaiche is confident. He believes the third time is a charm for the beleaguered downtown redevelopment. Its plans were previously thwarted by 9/11, Hurricane Sandy, and, more recently, the pandemic, which saw residents paying five-figure rents flee the city.

Today, the area boasts Casa Cipriani, a performing arts center, fashion brands like Altuzarra, the cool crowd at WSA, and another architectural gem—the Beekman Hotel—along with good schools, green spaces, and Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Tin Building, however beleaguered it may be.

Wrapping up the conversation with Bellaiche, it was brought to his attention that 20 March was also International Francophonie Day, much to his surprise. What other French words would he like New Yorkers to learn? “How about ‘Bonjour’ and ‘J’taime,'” he suggested. The latter bon mot perfectly sums up Printemps New York.

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