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Luxury fashion betting on designer reshuffles faces tricky road ahead

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March 20, 2025

A slump in luxury fashion is prompting designer reshuffles at top houses Gucci, Chanel and Dior to reignite heat around their brands – while avoiding too radical a reset that could confuse affluent shoppers.

Reuters

The stakes are high, as the 363 billion euro ($395.09 billion) global luxury goods market grapples with its lowest sales rates in years with after an economic slowdown in China and rising inflation elsewhere make high-end consumers more reluctant to splash out.

“Brands are under more pressure than ever to balance creativity with commercial viability, while also maintaining relevance in a constantly shifting market,” said Lydia King, group buying and merchandising director at upscale British department store Liberty.

Kering-owned Gucci and Chanel are placing their bets on rising stars from much smaller labels, with LVMH‘s Dior likely soon to follow suit. But new designers face the tricky task of bringing the right dose of renewal, with investors giving them little time to establish themselves.

Last week’s announcement that Gucci had appointed Balenciaga designer Demna to head its design teams sent Kering shares down over 10%, wiping around 3 billion euros off the group’s market value.

In an era of “superstar” creative directors, designers shape the identity of brands, even overshadowing a brand’s heritage, said Jacques Roizen, of consultancy DLG.

Many analysts had lobbied for bolder fashion at Gucci following a two-year push upmarket with more classic designs, but investors worry Demna, 43, who brought buzz to Kering’s smaller label with high-end streetwear styles, might not be the right fit.

Creative directors are redefining “not only the aesthetic direction but also the positioning and clientele of the houses,” said Roizen.

As China remains subdued, luxury brands are pinning their hopes on the U.S. market this year, although signs of economic uncertainty are creeping in.

Chanel, which is privately owned, is bringing in Matthieu Blazy, 40, after his successful run at Kering’s Bottega Veneta. He faces the daunting task of ushering in a fresh design approach, overseen for decades by Karl Lagerfeld, and then by longtime collaborator Virginie Viard following Lagerfeld’s death in 2019.

The importance of the creative director can vary by brand, said Flavio Cereda, who manages GAM’s Luxury Brands investment strategy.

Since Viard’s abrupt departure last year, Chanel has emphasized trademarks, sending models down a runway shaped in its interlocking-C logo or wearing clothes adorned with signature black bows – at Lagerfeld’s preferred venue, the Grand Palais in Paris.

LVMH has yet to officially announce new creative leadership at Dior after menswear designer Kim Jones left in January, but is likely to soon hire a new designer, expected to be Jonathan Anderson. His departure from Loewe was announced on Monday, but LVMH declined to comment on Anderson’s future role.

There are also new faces at a host of smaller brands, including LVMH’s Celine and Givenchy, and Donatella Versace, 69, is stepping aside at Versace after nearly three decades, replaced by Miu Miu‘s Dario Vitale.

“Clients don’t know where to go anymore with all these musical chairs,” said Yannis Ouzene, a sales assistant for a major European brand on the Avenue Montaigne in Paris, home to some of the most exclusive fashion houses.

“I don’t recall seeing such a significant shift in creative leadership across the luxury industry,” said Achim Berg, fashion and luxury industry advisor.

Change will sweep through studios, merchandising teams, marketing departments and design teams — but takes time, with no visible impact likely until next year, he added.

Brands need to be wary of bewildering clients with “too drastic changes in the aesthetic language of a brand,” said Federica Levato, senior partner at consultancy Bain.

For Chinese shoppers, the “here and now” of a brand’s design is more important than its historical context, while Western shoppers place “significant value on the continuity of a brand’s identity”, said Roizen.

For some, the designer is not a deal clincher.

“I don’t care who the designer is,” said Stephanie Gold, an American tourist in Paris who recently purchased a pair of prominent Dior glasses. “I don’t like to buy what everybody has.”

The luxury sector overall – which averaged annual growth of 10% over 2019-2023 – is expected to grow around 4% in 2025, with sales to Americans accounting for over a third of the global growth, up 7%, compared with a 1% decline from the Chinese, based on UBS estimates.

Olivier Abtan, consultant with Alix Partners, says brands have to be careful not to wait too long before shaking things up.

As the market awaits word on Dior’s new design chief, and LVMH grapples with shopper fatigue buffeting the industry, some wonder whether design change at Dior, which lags group heavyweight Louis Vuitton, should have come sooner.

Change needs to be made “as soon as a brand senses growth is slowing,” Abtan said.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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LVMH brings “You&Me” back to Italy, the tour dedicated to Métiers d’Excellence

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Translated by

Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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March 21, 2025

The third edition of LVMH‘s “You&Me” tour has arrived in Italy, the cradle of artisanal expertise and craftsmanship. The initiative aims to showcase the group’s more than 280 Métiers d’Excellence and introduce younger generations to the craftsmanship professions at the core of the luxury manufacturing industry.

LVMH’s You&Me tour lands in Rome. – Photo: FNW/EP

 
After four dates in France that drew 7,500 visitors, “You&Me” stopped in Rome on 20 March at the Salone delle Fontane and will continue in Florence on 4 and 5 April at the Stazione Leopolda.

FashionNetwork.com attended the Rome debut, which welcomed a delegation from the French luxury group, including Toni Belloni, advisor to the LVMH CEO and president of LVMH Italy, alongside the CEOs of its major Italian maisons – Jean-Christophe Babin (Bulgari), Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou (Fendi), Giulio Bergamaschi (Acqua di Parma), Saar Debrouwere (Pucci), and Paola Faccioli (Cova) – as well as Alexandre Boquel, director of LVMH Métiers d’Excellence. The event also welcomed representatives from Italian institutions, Parliament, and Rome.

Toni Belloni, advisor to LVMH CEO and president of LVMH Italy.
Toni Belloni, advisor to LVMH CEO and president of LVMH Italy. – Photo: FNW/EP

 
“This is the first time the You&Me project has come to Rome, and when it comes to métiers of beauty, there’s no better place — everything around us here is beauty,” said Toni Belloni during his opening remarks. “Italy’s high-end manufacturing draws from this cultural heritage, rooted in artisanal guilds that have evolved over centuries into today’s vibrant industrial districts. It’s this craftsmanship that gives strength to both the country and the luxury goods industry.”

“LVMH currently has 66 manufacturing sites across Italy, employing over 15,000 people — beautiful ateliers we are incredibly proud of. These ‘lead’ companies work with more than 3,000 small Italian businesses. Often family-run, these suppliers bring high-quality production, flexibility, deep product knowledge, and a strong capacity for innovation. I describe our innovation model as an ‘open system’ — our suppliers give us new ideas every year. This ecosystem must continue evolving to keep pace with changing customer expectations.”

But for this system to thrive, new talent is essential. Belloni told FashionNetwork.com: “Altagamma’s research suggests the luxury sector will need 300,000 new hires in the coming years. This industry offers real opportunities for employment and professional growth. That’s what we need to help young people understand, and we do so through many initiatives — including You&Me.”

“Our Métiers d’Excellence Institute identifies individuals passionate about artisanal work, regardless of background. Every maison within the group has internal academies where our top experts — whom we call ‘Virtuosi’ — pass on their knowledge. In Italy, we also run the ‘Adopt a School’ program, under Altagamma’s patronage, and collaborate closely with regional institutions.”

There are many concrete examples of LVMH and its maisons’ investment in youth training and employment. “Thélios has nearly 2,000 employees—many young people from the region trained at local eyewear technical institutes. We’ve just integrated a second factory that will become a full-scale campus,” Belloni continued.

“2026 Louis Vuitton will open a new leather goods site in Pontassieve. Loro Piana is also planning a campus in Ghemme. And in April, Bulgari will inaugurate the second module of its manufacturing site in Valenza, which will eventually double both its production capacity and workforce — currently around 400 employees.”

In a nod to Bulgari’s Roman heritage, CEO Jean-Christophe Babin also took the stage during the brand’s hometown stop on the tour. He emphasized the value of craftsmanship and Italian know-how: “Bulgari is what it is today thanks to the ‘smart hands’ trained over the past 15 years at our internal Jewellery Academy in Valenza. Goldsmithing isn’t about replication — many of our pieces are one-of-a-kind. Over the years, we’ve created 1,800 new jobs, 90% of which are filled by people under 30.”
 

Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari – Photo: FNW/EP

​”There’s already a shortage of talent. Bulgari employs 20% of Valenza’s goldsmiths, and we can’t pull resources from the subcontractors who work with us. That’s why we created the Academy — to train new professionals, including those from completely unrelated fields. In the coming years, we plan to train another 700 goldsmiths, bringing the total to 2,000 since the start of the program.”

To help young people explore career opportunities within the Métiers d’Excellence, LVMH has also launched Inside LVMH, an international educational platform offering a deep dive into the group’s universe and maisons. The platform currently has over 331,000 active members, more than 125,000 certified students since 2001, and access to over 120 expert-led content pieces.

LVMH’s commitment to craftsmanship and training has also earned praise from Italian institutions. Speaking at the event, MP Federico Mollicone, chair of the Italian Parliament’s Culture, Education, and Research Commission, said: “This is an alliance in the name of beauty, art, and excellence — not only Italian, but European — rooted in history, artisanal guilds, and métiers. Today’s event sends a crucial message to young people: believe in yourselves and the support of the Italian state.”

During “You&Me,” open to students and the general public, visitors can explore LVMH’s 280+ Métiers d’Excellence through dedicated exhibition areas. These include the LVMH Musco, which showcases the group’s six business sectors through iconic maison objects; immersive pavilions where visitors can interact with craft experts; and interactive workshops and coaching sessions.

The next stop on the tour is April 4 and 5 at Stazione Leopolda in Florence.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Printemps New York opening celebration perfects the French-American aesthetic

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Chairman Jean-Marc Bellaiche hosted the event, which welcomed NYC VIPs for a sneak peek ahead of Friday’s ribbon cutting.

Jean-Marc Bellaiche and Parker Posey at the Printemps New York opening night. – BFA, courtesy of Printemps New York

Occupy Wall Street has taken on new meaning. Instead of an economic protest movement, it’s become a retail revolution. The eagerly anticipated opening of Printemps New York arrived as spring arrived, as a tribute to its French name, hosted by Jean-Marc Bellaiche, chairman of the department store group. 

With champagne flowing like fountains, a customized Printemps ice sculpture raw bar, and delectables by hotshot Haitian-American chef Grégory Gourdet, who was enlisted to oversee the space’s culinary offerings, guests perused the breathtaking space designed by French architect Laura Gonzales, who gave it a modern art nouveau feeling awash with color, texture, and pattern.

Architect Laura Gonzalez and chef Grégory Gourdet at the Printemps New York opening.
Architect Laura Gonzalez and chef Grégory Gourdet at the Printemps New York opening. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York

FashionNetwork.com caught up with Bellaiche as the evening kicked off before the executive commenced hosting duties, including introducing Noah Cyrus, who serenaded the crowd and personally escorted Parker Posey and Katie Holmes on tours.

Noah Cyrus performing at the Printemps New York opening event.
Noah Cyrus performing at the Printemps New York opening event. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York
Katie Holmes at the Printemps New York opening.
Katie Holmes at the Printemps New York opening. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York

First and foremost, Bellaiche noted that the key difference between the Paris flagship and the New York location is its culinary offerings. “It is different, and it’s the same. It’s different because the size is much smaller, but the focus on food is stronger. We have a robust food offering in Paris, but it’s so big. To have five restaurants in the small space is something else,” Bellaiche said (though at over 43,000 square feet over two levels, the space is by no means diminutive).

He also noted that the space lacks brand boutiques. These inhabit most luxury department stores lately, robbing the space of design POV. However, there is a dedicated Jacquemus salon for the opening. Also gone are the relegated aisles; thus, once arriving at the Broadway main entrance, the first floor is a series of open displays—such as terrazzo vitrines and podiums to display accessories and clothing racks that allow a meandering sense. It also houses three eateries, though access to all on the first floor isn’t fluid. The lobby of New York’s largest commercial-to-residency building conversion sits at the ground level. The journey feels even more intriguing as one goes up and down again on the opposite side to discover the whole environment.

“The flow of the consumer journey is completely free. There are no lanes when you enter the salon; we don’t tell you where to go,” Bellaiche continued.

“There are many similarities—the attention to aesthetics, the architecture. Paris is the most beautiful store; this one is even more beautiful, and there is a lot of tribute to Paris here. For example, we brought the fresco by Atelier Roma from France, which was inspired by Paris. Origami birds are flying in the window by artist Charles Kaisin, who we work with in Paris, too,” he noted.

The undertaking, which was announced over two years ago, was nothing less than a Herculean effort, judging by the design and culinary offerings alone.

“What is tough is that when you open a store in a new country, you open a country. So, you start from scratch with new systems. You form a business, too, a new enterprise or a warehouse; everything is new. That’s a challenge. The construction was also a big challenge, but overall, it went very smoothly,” he said. In a welcome speech later, Bellaiche called out Jeffrey Yachmetz of Dilmon LLC for the trouble-free build-out.

About two hours into the event, Bellaiche spoke to the crowd from a very art nouveau-inspired gazebo made from calla lily-sculpted supports. “You all need to know how to pronounce ‘Printemps’; there will be a test later,” the chairman said as he continued to school the crowd.

“We have been reinventing retail since 1865, and this store is no exception. In Paris, we were the first to use electricity and put an elevator in the store. Imagine coming to the store to experience the first time your body is lifted from the ground. We put a ski slope on the rooftop of Printemps Paris before. First, to showcase Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs behind our windows. We know what innovation means, and as a start-up of 160 years, we are proud of this,” he continued, uttering that the new store’s tagline is, ‘This is not a department store.’

“This is a French apartment in the heart of NY, where French curation meets American hospitality. In France, we know beauty and art, but we aren’t good at welcoming people; we are aloof and distant, so let’s take the best of American warmth, welcoming, and ‘hello, welcome to NY’ approach at Printemps New York, where shopping meets culture, art, experience and food.”

Similarly, both Paris and New York have landmark status. “It’s a tough market, and competition is crowded, but there are four reasons we can bring something to the NYC retail scene. One is architecture, such as the one we inherited: the Red Room made by muralist Hildreth Meière in 1931 [it was originally made for the Irving Trust Company and closed to the public after 9/11] and the architecture that we built with star architect Laura Gonzales,” he said.

“The second is a product you will all buy tomorrow when we officially open at 11 a.m. Twenty-five percent are new to New York City or hard to find. The third is restaurants, so I want to thank Grégory Gourdet, our executive chef, for participating in this adventure. The last differentiating factor is the programming. This story will be ever-changing. We’ll have conferences, talks, pop-ups, so stay tuned for more reason to come to Printemps,” he concluded.

The welcoming spirit was undoubtedly the staff of a mosaic of New Yorkers from all generations, each with impressive luxury CVs, who were polar opposites of early-Aughts snobbish retail associates—hello Jeffrey’s New York—epitomized in an SNL skit. These eager fashion experts were friendly and knowledgeable, and they even cut a fine rug to the DJ stylings of Francesca Keller, daughter of fashion editor Elissa Santisi, as the party raged past 11 p.m.

Francesca Keller set the mood at Printemps New York’s opening night.
Francesca Keller set the mood at Printemps New York’s opening night. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York

​According to Bellaiche, Printemps defied New York’s post-pandemic retail staffing shortages. “Well, first, people are proud to work for a gem like this store. This is an extra motivation. We train them on the storytelling this store is full of. We want salespeople to be strong storytellers who know the story of Jules and Augustine Jaluzot and Printemps,” Bellaiche explained.

Knowing the Printemps story also includes learning the history of One Wall Street, formerly a bank—the Irving Trust Company—and discovering the store’s pièce de résistance: the Red Room, which houses the motherlode of the store’s women’s shoes. (Though when it comes to merchandising chez Printemps New York, toss out previous notions, as you never really know where you will discover something—say, vintage Jean Paul Gaultier couture pieces. According to a salesperson, the couturier’s mariner stripe gown with feather train on display has already sold.)

The event also welcomed Kim Shui, who explored the curated fragrance selection at Printemps New York—a fusion of fashion, beauty, and luxury.
The event also welcomed Kim Shui, who explored the curated fragrance selection at Printemps New York—a fusion of fashion, beauty, and luxury. – BFA courtesy of Printemps New York

While the store was amply yet sparsely stocked, CEO Americas Laura Lendrum promised more labels after the opening due to the typical merchandise ship dates in relation to the late March opening.

Though the store is beautifully designed, one ugly truth about New York’s multi-brand and department stores in recent years is their despicable non-payment to vendors. This practice, with terms as much as four months standard or, in the case of Saks, continued non-payment even after the Neiman Marcus Group acquisition, would probably not fly in France, where tighter regulations are in place for such matters.

“In this way, we will be more French,” Bellaiche assured.

Opening a retail experience of this scale in the current climate is not for the faint of heart. But Bellaiche is confident. He believes the third time is a charm for the beleaguered downtown redevelopment. Its plans were previously thwarted by 9/11, Hurricane Sandy, and, more recently, the pandemic, which saw residents paying five-figure rents flee the city.

Today, the area boasts Casa Cipriani, a performing arts center, fashion brands like Altuzarra, the cool crowd at WSA, and another architectural gem—the Beekman Hotel—along with good schools, green spaces, and Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Tin Building, however beleaguered it may be.

Wrapping up the conversation with Bellaiche, it was brought to his attention that 20 March was also International Francophonie Day, much to his surprise. What other French words would he like New Yorkers to learn? “How about ‘Bonjour’ and ‘J’taime,'” he suggested. The latter bon mot perfectly sums up Printemps New York.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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UK confidence stabilises after rocky February, two reports agree, but one’s more optimistic on spending

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UK consumer confidence hardly registered a move in March after February’s record low, two sets of findings from GfK and The British Retail Consortium (BRC) showed. But there are signs of optimism from one of them

Photo: Pexels

The BRC said at least some Britons are showing signs of positivity about the wider UK’s outlook, with Gen Z (18-27) leading the way, expecting to spend more than the previous three months across all categories. Not so with Gen X (44-59) though, who are planning the biggest cuts to spending for most items, excluding food.

According to BRC-Opinium data, consumers generally expect the state of the economy to improve over the next three months, to -35 in March, up from -37 in February.

Their personal financial situation has also improved slightly to -10 in March, up from -11 in February. 

Their personal spending on retail rose to 0 in March, up from -5 in February and their personal spending overall rose to +11 in March, up from +4 in February. But personal savings fell to -5 in March, down from -3 in February.
 
BRC chief executive Helen Dickinson said: “Consumer confidence stabilised this month after February’s record low. This was coupled with an increase in spending expectations for the three months ahead, both for retail spending and spending more generally.”

She added that the government’s Spring statement “is an opportunity… to inject some confidence back into the economy.”

For GfK’s long-standing index, confidence inched up to -19 in March, from -20 in February and -21 in March last year. But the index remains below its long-term average, it noted.

Views on personal finances for the past year were slightly down, from -7 to -9, while perceptions of the wider economy over the last 12 months and looking ahead a year are each up two points at -42 and -29 respectively.

“If consumer confidence were a patient languishing in a hospital bed, a doctor would say there is little evidence of a recovery as yet,” Neil Bellamy, Consumer Insights director, NIQ GfK, said.

“The current stability is to be welcomed but it won’t take much to upset the fragile consumer mood,” he added.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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