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Shein, Adidas, Hermès and Chanel were big winners in apparel market last year

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New figures from the analysts at GlobalData show that both Shein and Adidas grew strongly last year, ending as the big winners among the mega-names of global mass fashion and sports.

Bloomberg

GlobalData said that a “challenging economy made consumers more selective over where they shopped for apparel in 2024”. 

Overall, the top 10 players in the market are forecast to have gained share, “as shoppers remained loyal to brands that they could trust, while smaller players lost their footing”. 

The winning brands “offered superior value for money and style, while those with lacklustre ranges lost out. Unsurprisingly, Shein was the biggest winner again”.

Pippa Stephens, senior apparel analyst, said its market share is forecast to have surged by 0.24ppts to 1.53%, “driven by its ultra-low price points and fast reaction to fashion trends, which helped it stay ahead of competitors despite the continued criticism regarding its labour practices and environmental impact”.

Its rapid rise has taken share away from other fast-fashion online pureplays, “especially ASOS and boohoo.com, which have seen their sales plummet over the past few years”.

DR

But while Shein was the leader in growth terms, other major names also saw their market share shedding in the right direction. Inditex’s Zara remained an “outperformer, with its market share expected to have grown 0.05ppts to 1.24%, helped by its local supply chain allowing it to react swiftly to new fashion trends and its appeal among a broad demographic of shoppers”. 

That came as its biggest rival H&M’s market share is forecast to have fallen marginally to 1.06%, “as its more neutral and lacklustre designs struggled to capture consumers’ attention”. H&M “has been losing shoppers to Uniqlo as well, which is forecast to have grown its market share to 0.92%, due to strong value for money perceptions and significant expansion outside its home market of Japan”.

And Adidas? In sportswear, after experiencing a notable slump in sales in 2023,  it had “a triumphant year in 2024, with its total apparel market share anticipated to have grown 0.17ppts to 1.79%, bolstered by the popularity of its Originals lifestyle footwear ranges”. 

Other sports labels that won share were New Balance and Skechers, “boosted by their comfortable and versatile footwear, as well as their multitude of popular collaborations”. 

Nike’s problems last year were well publicised and despite having the biggest share of any of the brands mentioned in the report, that share is anticipated to have dropped 0.15ppts to 2.85%, “making it the biggest loser in the overall apparel market in 2024, as it fell behind in terms of innovation and fashion credentials”.

AFP

Stephens added that another market with much-talked-about issues in 2024, luxury apparel, “also saw a mixed bag of results. Those catering to ultra-wealthy customers remained the most resilient, with Hermès and Chanel both forecast to have gained market share to 0.55% and 0.59%, respectively, due to high-income consumers being less vulnerable to economic hardships”. 

In contrast to this, aspirational shoppers, who tend to rely on their savings to afford status symbols, were much harder hit, causing more accessible luxury brands to suffer. 

Admittedly, “accessible” in this case still means fashion selling at the kind of prices most consumers couldn’t come ear to being able to afford. Gucci, for instance, experienced the biggest downturn, with its market share anticipated to have dropped 0.10ppts to 0.38%.

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M&S unveils new collection with campaign that oozes confidence

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M&S’s fashion operations are bouncing back with a vengeance and the newly-confident retailer has unveiled the spring collection and the campaign that it hopes will drive sales growth further.

We’re told the ‘Love That’ campaign “marks a step change in season with a bold and stylish statement, focused on spreading joy through style, and encouraging individuals to embrace the uplifting energy that comes with spring”.

The retailer said it’s celebrating “how a well curated look that makes you feel good on the inside, can positively impact those around you — creating a ripple effect of happiness”. 

The ad “captures the journey of a compliment as it reverberates from woman to woman. It begins with a subtle, almost unspoken exchange, gradually building in strength and culminating in an openly expressed compliment. Closing with a close-up of a woman’s lips, gently curling into the beginnings of a smile, symbolising the warmth and connection created by a kind word — championing the powerful ripple effect of giving compliments and leaving viewers with a sense of joy and a desire to keep the positivity flowing”.

The campaign includes daytime and evening looks “from jackets so iconic you’ll want to double up, to shoes you’ll fall head over heels for”.

So, let’s look at the practical details. The campaign includes 10-second and 30-second AV content, set to the upbeat R&B track 1 Thing by Amerie, the visual narrative aiming to “reinforce our position as a leading destination for stylish, quality clothing”. 

Running across VOD, billboards, digital and social platforms, it should reach an estimated 183 million people across all channels. 

The retailer’s OOH presence “will dominate” London, Manchester, Glasgow, Newcastle, Leeds, Liverpool, Sheffield and Bristol, with London TFL escalator ribbons in Tottenham Court Road and Bond Street tube stations, billboards across London Underground, and fly posters in “high-impact locations, maximising visibility”. 

It will also exist as a “takeover” on its own webstore, as well as in-store.

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ASOS trading update delivers some welcome good news

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Fashion e-tail giant ASOS announced a date for its half-year results on Friday (they’re due on 24 April) but more importantly it issued the briefest of brief trading updates and the news looked good.

ASOS Arrange

The company reiterated that — as it had said in its November update — it expects “a significant improvement in profitability in H1 FY25, despite continued volume deleverage, following a strong gross margin development driven by lower markdown activity and increased full-price mix, and continued cost discipline”. 

In fact, it expects revenue growth in line with, and adjusted EBITDA ahead of the consensus among analysts. The company-compiled consensus for the first half (as of this week) is for total sales growth in constant currency to be 13%, while adjusted EBITDA should be £34 million and the adjusted EBITDA margin 2.6%.

Behind those dry figures, ASOS added that it was encouraged by the fact that “own-brand full-price sales, a core engine of its customer proposition, returned to growth in the first half. This was enabled by its market-leading Test & React model, now more than 15% of own-brand sales and growing”.

It’s all upbeat news for a business that has been somewhat battered by intense competition and consumer caution since the glory days of the pandemic-driven e-tail boom.

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New TOFS owner mulls CVA

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Just-bought discount retailer TOFS (The Original Factory Shop) could see its UK store count drastically reduced.

TOFS

New owner Modella Capital is contemplating a Company Voluntary Arrangement (CVA) to close a number of its 180 retail units, according to Sky News.

The variety retailer, which sells a number of major brands including L’Oreal beauty and Adidas sportswear, was acquired last month from private equity firm Duke Street for an undisclosed sum. Modella’s now understood to be in talks with business adviser Interpath on options for the retail group, including a potential CVA, which would result in cutting the retailer’s 1,800-strong workforce.

At the same time, Modella is also drawing up plans for a radical restructuring of the retailer. This will also include discussions with landlords over rent reductions for a number of surviving stores. Reports also claim a TOFS distribution centre will be a focus of those restructuring plans.

TOFS, which was founded in 1969 and then acquired by Duke Street in 2007 for £68.5 million, is understood to had also come under the bidding scrutiny of usual suspect Frasers Group, Baaj Capital and Poundstretcher, which is owned by the investment group Fortress the report also said.

Modella and Interpath have so far yet to comment.

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