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Vegan Fashion Week reinvents itself as Ethical Luxury Summit

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Founded in 2019 by Franco-American Emmanuelle Rienda, Vegan Fashion Week is now reinventing itself with a new look and a new name: the “Ethical Luxury Summit”. Held in Los Angeles since its origins, the event took place on Monday and Wednesday at the California Market Center in Downtown LA.

Victor Clavelly alien looks at Ethical Luxury Summit, Downtown Los Angeles – Alexis Chenu

“The Ethical Luxury Summit marks a turning point and a great evolution of the Vegan Fashion Week,” explained Rienda. “Six years ago, no one was really talking about vegan fabrics or sustainability. My personal journey, my encounters with emerging designers and our conversations on the use of recycled animal fabrics and ethically produced materials, helped our event evolve. Today, we are expanding our event to include ethical fashion. This new approach is now receiving more attention from fashion houses and luxury brands, and opening new doors.”
 
The highlight of the event, the “Golden Hour Fashion Show”, brought together a host of guests, including podcaster and bestselling author Jay Shetty; actress Richa Moorjani; Norwegian prince and shaman Durek Verrett; French actor and artist Romain Brau; and stylist Philippe Uter.

The famous Parisian school Ecole Duperré opened the show with the presentation of collections by two young designers from the school. “Our participation is linked to our curiosity and also to our focus on sustainable fashion, which is in our DNA,” explained Mathieu Buard, director of Fashion and Image Studies at Ecole Duperré. 

“The school has been working with recycled fabrics for a long time, even before we started talking about ecology and sustainability. This theme is at the heart of our educational program, and particularly of our creative and design processes,” added Buard.

Guy Chassaing from Ecole Duperré at Ethical Luxury Summit, Downtown Los Angeles
Guy Chassaing from Ecole Duperré at Ethical Luxury Summit, Downtown Los Angeles – Alexis Chenu

Watched by 400 guests, the mutant silhouettes of designer Victor Clavelly, bewitched a Los Angeles audience always in love for stories of aliens. Noted a few months ago for his collaboration with Rick Owens around extraordinary feather boots, Clavelly presented short, lamé dresses with pointed shoulder pads, pixelated tops and plant-print jumpsuits punctuated by long hands reminiscent of alien anatomy.
 
This was followed by another talent, Guy Chassaing, also a graduate of the Ecole Duperré, and now part of the Alaïa fashion house. “Eight voluminous silhouettes inspired by my desire to recycle and my grandmother, who used rags, shreds and scarves to put together looks and outfits,” said Chassaing.

“This is the starting point for my collection, which is created from scraps of wool needled one by one onto silk organza. A time-consuming technique, requiring over 250 hours of work for each dress, but a way for me to compose new creations from new textures and textiles”.
 
The second part of the show featured Moroccan fashion collective Label Oued in an ultra-colorful collection full of nods to Morocco and California. A manifesto collection co-created by four designers – Mina Binebine, Nadia Chellaoui, Youssef Drissi and Angeline Dangelser – and produced in collaboration with Balmain, supplier of the fabrics. 

Label oued collective presented its first show co-created by four Moroccan designers
Label oued collective presented its first show co-created by four Moroccan designers – Alexis Chenu

“Since 2023, Label Oued has brought together Moroccan designers and helping them to shine internationally,” explained Dangelser, a former designer for Parisian luxury houses, now based in Casablanca.

“In addition to traditional know-how, we encourage them to take an interest in textile innovations and offer an alternative to fast fashion. Collaboration with Balmain and textile manufacturers such as Subliwear has given rise to this original collection, which both hijacks Moroccan symbols and plays on Californian codes.”
 
Alongside the show, the Ethical Luxury Summit also organized six round tables and conferences exploring the relationship between luxury and ethical fashion. Among the topics discussed were “Is ethical fashion the new luxury?”; “AI, fashion tech and transparency in luxury goods”; and “The role of artisanship and cultural heritage in modern luxury”. 
 
The event also invited some 20 international brands and ethical designers to present their collections and stories in its designer gallery. Among them were local and made-in-Los Angeles brands such as Tanaka, the upcycling brand founded by British designer Ana Tanaka; and bags made from cactus or apple fibers by Carter Wade.

Ana Tanaka booth at the Designer Gallery, Ethical Luxury Summit, Los Angeles
Ana Tanaka booth at the Designer Gallery, Ethical Luxury Summit, Los Angeles – Alexis Chenu

Represented by Los Angeles-based press office Maison Privee, De Florencio unveiled the “rockstar, streetwear and futuristic” label founded by Nino Cutraro and made entirely from dead stocks in Los Angeles. A label adored by the Tik-Tokers and influencers who flocked to the Melrose Trading Post, where the brand regularly presents its collections. 
 
In a completely opposite genre, Parisian couture atelier Atelier 7474 and its founder Audrey Geschwind presented its supra VIP creations. Used to collaborating with the great luxury houses, from Balmain to Loewe, creating costumes and outfits for the Paris Opera, and for top international stars such as Rihanna, Ariana Grande and Lady Gaga, the designer presented in Los Angeles her creations revisiting traditional tutus.
 
“We’ve just come back from Las Vegas, where we presented unique outfits at the Magic trade show. A sort of reversed tutu for men, each piece requiring over 100 hours of handwork,” said Geschwind. “As the American market is crucial for our company, we’re also taking advantage of the Ethical Luxury Summit to present my collection of modular jewelry dresses, made from dead stocks.”

Atelier 7474 reversed tutu
Atelier 7474 reversed tutu – Atelier 7474

A few steps from Atelier 7474, Italian shoe brand Zingales revealed its vegan richelieus and derby models. “The American market is crucial to our development and particularly open to vegan footwear,” explained brand founder and vegetarian, Vincenzo Zingales. “Our shoes are made from an alternative suede of the future, manufactured from PVC-free ultra-microfibers. Even the Vibram sole is made from 90% non-petrochemical ingredients, right down to the color made from natural pigments.”
 
The first edition of the Ethical Luxury Summit, organized with the support of MMGNET Group, concluded with a fundraising gala on the rooftop of the California Market Center, where cocktails and vegan snacks by French pastry chef François Daubinet delighted the audience.

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UK shoppers seek value and authenticity, social media increasingly key

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UK consumers are adjusting their shopping behaviour in response to the tough economic backdrop, according to the  third annual Shopper Preference Report from Bazaarvoice.

Asos

The provider of UGC and social commerce solutions speaks to over 8,000 global consumers every year with a big chunk of them in the UK. And it found that inflation has had a big impact on their behaviour with “affordability and trust driving purchasing decisions”.

And while there has been a lot of talk about fashion spending being affected, the study claims that the hardest hit categories are actually grocery (71%), food and beverages (60%), and health & beauty (25%).

Bazaarvoice said 58% of UK consumers have switched to cheaper brands, 45% are delaying non-essential purchases, and 36% are actively using coupons and discount codes. Loyalty programmes are also seeing increased participation, with 35% of shoppers joining them to access better deals.

Store brands are gaining traction amid economic pressure. The survey also reveals that 57% of UK consumers have permanently switched to store-brand products. Lower prices (77%) remain the biggest factor, but improved quality (48%) and positive reviews (35%) are also helping store brands earn consumer loyalty.

As for Authenticity, 57% of UK shoppers cite real customer reviews as the biggest factor in their final purchase decisions. “Consumers trust content that includes detailed product descriptions (33%), real-life photos/videos (37%), and balanced feedback (36%)”, we’re told. However, on the flip side, they’re “wary of overly positive, generic reviews (45%) and suspiciously high review volumes in a short time (40%)”.

The report also said that social media continues to become ever nor important to shopping decisions. A third (32%) of UK consumers say social media introduced them to new products, while 28% use it to compare prices and products. 

Short-form videos (49%) and customer reviews (44%) are the most trusted content formats here. However, “honesty remains paramount” as 51% of UK shoppers distrust creator content that feels overly promotional, and 42% say authenticity comes from creators who acknowledge a product’s pros and cons.

Social media’s prominence shows how tech can make an impact and consumers appear to be hungry for even more innovation. A quarter (26%) of UK shoppers are excited by smart fitting rooms, and 19% find augmented reality product visualisation appealing.

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Paul Smith and Lee launch denim capsule

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Paul Smith and Lee have released the capsule collection that was first shown at the Paul Smith SS25 presentation at Pitti Uomo. The British designer and the American brand have collaborated on a collection inspired by Paul Smith’s famous stripes and Sir Paul’s saying, “look and see”. 

Paul Smith x Lee

The 14-piece limited edition includes jeans, denim jackets, western-style shirts and T-shirts.

The companies said their connection goes back many years with Paul Smith’s first shop in Nottingham having been a location to sell his own designs and to present his customer base with his favourite items from other makers. 

We’re told that “one such item was a particularly excellent pair of painter’s trousers, which he began importing in the early 1970s, from a specialist denim brand based in the United States. That brand was Lee – a name familiar to anyone with even a passing interest in denim, workwear, or Americana”.

Now, in a “full circle moment, the capsule reframes the Lee 101 jean and 101 Stormrider jacket, Lee chore jacket, western shirt and carpenter pant in exclusive prints and patterns”. 

A washed jacquard set featuring Smith’s tapered trouser, and playful graphic tees and hoodies complete the new collection. 

Co-branded trim details give hints of colour while a signature version of the Paul Smith stripe is interspersed throughout.

The collection’s “playfulness” is represented in the official campaign imagery. Shot by Anton Gottlob, it features six “friends of Paul Smith” styled to highlight each talent’s personality. Featuring two musicians, a painter, a dancer, a stylist and a lawyer (Emil Sands, Deneille Robert Percival, Suren Seneviratne, Eddie Wailes, Henry Prior and Hak Baker), “the collection fits each subject and their lifestyle in a unique way”.

Prices range from £85-£450/$90-$450 on paulsmith.com and lee.com and in selected partner-owned stores worldwide. It’s also available in select retailers globally with Nordstrom as the exclusive US wholesaler.

“I used to sell Lee in my Nottingham shop in the 1970s and they were important to me when I was first starting out. Getting clothes over to the UK from the USA was much more difficult to do back then and it was always so exciting to have it in the shop. They’ve got real heritage and being able to partner on this collection has been great. Pairing their expertise in denim and our knowledge of print and design is a brilliant combination,” Sir Paul Smith said.

And Jenni Broyles, executive VP & global brands president at Lee, added: “Paul Smith is renowned for its ‘classic with a twist’ aesthetic which fits authentically with Lee’s timeless style.”

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Carine Roitfeld launches new sports-fashion media brand Players

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Carine Roitfeld and her son Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld have unveiled Players, a new sports and media venture that launches for SS25 with Restoin Roitfeld as editor-in-chief and NBA star Dwyane Wade as its first guest editor. Carine Roitfeld is co-founder and head of fashion.

The fashion and multimedia brand is fronted by a bi-annual “collectors magazine” and will expand into “custom publishing, limited edition capsule collections and exclusive collaborations with top athletes and designers”, we’re told.

The duo said that Wade’s role in the inaugural issue sets the tone for Players’ “unique blend of high fashion storytelling, cultural influence and immersive brand experiences”.

Restoin Roitfeld added: “we are building something beyond the magazine – an intersection of fashion, culture and sport that speaks to a new generation of readers and collaborators.

“This venture will open doors for a new wave of creatives – writers, stylist photographers and designers – who have never worked with the CR team before, bringing fresh perspectives and storytelling to players. It will also really find how brands are featured, placing them in unexpected factors and collaborations that feel disruptive, modern and culturally irrelevant”.

They believe that the “fusion of sports and high fashion has never been more topical. Social media has transformed athletes into the new style stars of today”.

As mentioned, it will be more than a magazine and beyond editorial storytelling will foster a global network of creatives athletes and fashion insiders with the aforementioned custom publishing and product drops elements also key to creating a durable brand.

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