Stella McCartney Limited’s latest set of results that have been filed at Companies House show losses widening and revenue decreasing, but they also talk about a transformation plan aimed at long-term revenue growth under new-ish CEO Amandine Ohayaon.
The accounts cover the 12 months to the end of 2023 and show that turnover dropped to just under £22 million from £40 million in the previous year.
Gross profit fell to £19.3 million from £36.3 million and the operating loss widen to £22.5 million from £8.7 million. The loss before tax was £25 million, worse than the £10 million of a year earlier and the final net loss for the year was £24.68 million, wider than the aforementioned £10 million in 2022.
This time, profit sharing with Stella McCartney Italia SRL amounted to £7.3 million compared to £22.8 million in the previous year, the latest figure comprising 33% of total revenue (57% in 2022).
Royalties reached £9.6 million against £10.8 million in 2022 and in the latest year comprised 44% of revenues (27% in 2022).
Although a relatively small company compared to some of the mega-names in luxury fashion, Stella McCartney has a very high profile and given its loudly stated sustainability and anti-animal-cruelty focus, an influence beyond its small size.
So what actually happened in the year in question? When delivering its results a year earlier the company had spoken of the then-narrowing loss “confirming the trajectory towards break-even”. But for 2023, the company said that it faced significant pressure from inflation on materials and salaries – as did the rest of the market – with adverse effects in particular on the cost of goods sold. This was mitigated by the review of selling prices and increases where relevant against the competition.
However, the company added that the pressure was also turned into an opportunity to further review ways of working, finding efficiencies, and fighting waste, while remaining “fair to partners and employees”.
As mentioned, the business put a turnaround plan in place with a focus on its products and communication pillars to foster brand desirability, as well as “lightening deeply the cost structure in order to gain efficiencies in execution and generate cost savings”.
Some plus points during the year included its ongoing championing of its ethical stance and its Winter 2023 runway show in March of that year. It was called Horse Power and staged at the historic Manège de l’École Militaire in Paris. That’s France’s oldest riding school and saw models walking alongside horses provided by horse whisperer and rescuer Jean-François Pignon. It was the highest viewed Stella McCartney show to date and its media impact value was estimated at £2.4 million during the week of the show.
Meanwhile, the Summer 2024 show in October that year saw Marché Saxe-Breteuil for the first time transformed into a sustainable market. The collection was also made from 95% responsible materials and was the label’s most sustainable edit to date. That show also saw the brand introducing more innovations in sustainable materials.
It’s frustrating that we don’t have any information about how the company fared in 2024 because it would have been interesting to see how the turnaround programme has been going.
It’s also significant that in January this year the firm announced that McCartney had bought back the stake in her business owned by LVMH.
It means it’s now in a major a new era of independence after her association with two of the biggest groups in luxury fashion (McCartney was backed by Kering until 2019 after which the LVMH deal was struck).
Makers of goods from sportswear to luxury cars and chemicals painted a gloomy picture on Wednesday of consumer and industrial health, adding to concerns about the damage from U.S. President Donald Trump‘s trade wars and hitting share prices again.
Reuters
Increased tariffs on all U.S. steel and aluminium imports took effect on Wednesday, as Trump steps up his campaign to reorder global trade in favour of the United States. Europe swiftly retaliated.
Trump’s plans for tariffs – and their back-and-forth implementation since he took office in January – have upended industries from cars to energy and unnerved businesses and investors. Worries that rising costs will reignite inflation, and that souring consumer sentiment could herald a U.S. recession, have caused stock markets to plunge.
“Nearly everyone in the economy is struggling to comprehend wild swings in Washington policies, and their implications for everyday decisions,” said Stephen Dover, chief market strategist at asset manager Franklin Templeton.
The constant flip-flopping over tariffs is paralysing industries from healthcare and retailing to agriculture, mining, energy, he said. Automakers, for example, are unable to plan while there is a threat of 25% tariffs on components made in Canada or Mexico.
“No reasonable auto executive can make such investments if the expected returns can be wiped out at the stroke of a pen,” Dover said.
Germany’s Porsche said on Wednesday it was assessing how it could pass on to consumers the cost of possible tariffs – expected to be 25% for U.S. imports from Europe – without pressuring its margins. That implies prices could be hiked to offset any drop in unit sales.
Even without higher tariffs, lower sales, high costs and trade concerns would hurt 2025 earnings, the luxury carmaker warned. Its shares were down 4.5%.
“For now, we are hoping there are solutions that will lead to a sensible tariff regime between regions,” Porsche CFO Jochen Breckner said on a press call after its annual results.
Two major South Korean steelmakers said they were considering options including possible investment in operations in the United States as the metals tariffs came into force. ‘ J.P. Morgan‘s chief economist Bruce Kasman said he saw a 40% chance of a U.S. recession this year, which would rise to 50% if Trump follows through on threats to impose reciprocal tariffs from April. He also warned of lasting damage to the United States as an investment destination if the administration undermines trust in governance.
Asked about a recession resulting from his trade policies, Trump said on Tuesday: “I don’t see it at all.” On Monday, he had declined to rule one out.
European shares were largely resilient on Wednesday as investors cheered news that Ukraine had accepted a U.S. proposal for a 30-day ceasefire with Russia.
But earnings from Puma and Zara-owner Inditex underscored concerns that uncertainties over trade are starting to hurt Main Street, curbing Americans’ spending on everything from detergent and clothing to travel.
Shares in Puma lost almost a quarter of their value and hit a nine-year low after the German sportswear company forecast slower sales growth this year due to soft demand in the United States and China. It highlighted trade disputes and currency volatility as challenges.
Spain’s Inditex reported a slower start to its first-quarter starting February 1, raising questions about weakening consumer demand, particularly in the United States, its second-biggest market. Its shares fell more than 8%, to their lowest since August.
CEO Oscar Garcia Maceiras said he was “optimistic” about the U.S. market despite the tit-for-tat trade measures, and that Inditex company was well positioned to adapt as needed. But echoing other executives, he said constantly changing geopolitical news was making long-term predictions difficult.
More than 900 of the 1,500 largest U.S. companies have mentioned tariffs on earnings calls or at investor events since the beginning of the year, according to LSEG data.
The tariffs are already driving prices for aluminium users in the United States to record highs. Data on Wednesday showed U.S. consumer prices increased less than expected in February, although tariffs on imports are expected to raise the costs of most goods in the months ahead.
German chemicals distributor Brenntag warned that 2025 will be another challenging year, shaped by economic and political uncertainty and subdued economic growth globally.
CEO Christian Kohlpaintner said the company was relatively insulated from import duties because it sources ingredients and sells its products locally.
But what he called the “confusing, inscrutable” situation makes it hard to run a business. Germany’s chemicals association VCI said on Wednesday it did not expect any recovery this year.
“The big risk is that companies stop spending and equally the consumer also stalls purchases,” said Justin Onuekwusi, chief investment officer at investment firm St. James’s Place.
Fresh off the heels of Paris Fashion Week, LVMH is shaking up the leadership of some of its biggest brands. Damien Bertrand, CEO of Loro Piana, is stepping into a new role at Louis Vuitton, while Frédéric Arnault takes over Loro Piana. Meanwhile, Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou, who currently leads Fendi, is set to become CEO of Christian Dior Couture.
“The success of our maisons is driven by dedicated and visionary leaders,” said Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, in an official statement. “Damien, Frédéric, and Pierre-Emmanuel bring exceptional leadership, entrepreneurial vision, and a commitment to excellence. Their appointments reflect our strategy of cultivating top talent within the group.”
A strategic shift for LVMH’s powerhouses
Starting April 15, 2025, Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou will take over Christian Dior Couture, reporting directly to Delphine Arnault. He will oversee business operations, finance, and legal affairs, working closely with Delphine, with whom he has already formed a strong partnership. His successor at Fendi is expected to be announced soon.
Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou named CEO of Christian Dior Couture – LVMH
At Louis Vuitton, Damien Bertrand will enter his new role on June 10, 2025, reporting to CEO Pietro Beccari. He will take charge of product divisions, brand communication, business strategy, sustainability, and industrial operations. He is also set to join the LVMH executive committee in January 2026.
Damien Bertrand appointed deputy CEO of Louis Vuitton – LVMH
Meanwhile, Frédéric Arnault will take over Loro Piana starting March 26, allowing for a transition period with Damien Bertrand, before officially assuming leadership on June 10, 2025. He will report to Toni Belloni, chairman of LVMH Italy, while his replacement at LVMH Watches is expected to be announced soon. This promotion also solidifies his position within both the LVMH leadership structure and the Arnault family hierarchy.
Frédéric Arnault appointed CEO of Loro Piana – LVMH
Strategic moves amid luxury market challenges
These leadership changes highlight LVMH’s strategy to strengthen the management of its most profitable brands at a time when the luxury market faces increasing challenges. The restructuring comes on the heels of a downturn in 2024, positioning LVMH to navigate shifting industry dynamics and sustain long-term growth.
Italian luxury sneaker maker Golden Goose reported a 13% increase in net revenues last year to 655 million euros ($715 million), helped by 24 new store openings.
Golden Goose
Its adjusted core profit (EBITDA) rose 14% to 227 million euros in 2024.
Blue Pool, a Hong Kong-based investment firm backed by Alibaba co-founder Joe Tsai, bought a 12% stake in the Italian group in January, after the Permira-backed company abruptly pulled plans for a stock market listing last year.