Connect with us

Fashion

Courrèges, The Row and Dries Van Noten

Published

on


It is hard to think of two fashion houses more diametrically opposed than Courrèges and The Row—from party-ready energy to poetic minimalism in Paris this sunny Wednesday. The contrast continued with a polished and successful display by Julian Klausner for Dries Van Noten at the Opéra Garnier.
 

Courrèges: Got to party up

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

Another white box, another bizarre centerpiece—this time, rising confetti—and another impressive collection by Nicolas Di Felice in another morning show for the house of Courrèges.

This season, Nicolas Di Felice’s big inspiration was an art photography book by Dan Colen titled “Moments Like This,” in which he captured around 100 images of confetti. Several of these images featured shards and oblongs of color, serving as the wellspring for this fall/winter 2024/25 collection.

The show opened with minimalist draping—long rectangles of fabric gently wrapped around the torso and shoulder—seen on many models as they walked through a rising shower of confetti.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

“I call it the one-minute Courrèges,” laughed the ever-unpretentious Di Felice in a packed and celebratory backstage as guests and models swigged champagne.
 
Seen in the opening look: a three-meter black rectangle of fine wool looped around the neck, transforming into a scarf, blouse, and train.

Curling, twisting, and wrapping rectangles into stunningly shaped tops—paired with pencil pants. Continuing the idea with barely-there cocktails—long parallelograms coiled around the neck before entangling the torso and cascading to the floor.

Nicolas Di Felice paid clever homage to André Courrèges in the final look. The founder’s futurist gleaming white vinyl sheet dress from 1968 was reborn as a rolled wrap dress with a back flare, made without any sleeves, leaving the model’s arms trapped inside.

For chilly evenings, he designed razor-sharp coat dresses and bodices in the brand’s signature black plastic toile. But the heart of the show was the bold new draping—the freshest we’ve seen in many seasons—anywhere. A reminder of why Di Felice has turned Courrèges into such a hot label again. Making him the first designer to successfully revive the house founded by André Courrèges, following a half-dozen wannabe successors after the founder’s retirement in 2011.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

“I wanted to recall the optimism of André and the love of a party. In tough times like today, one needs them,” he concluded.

Overall, it’s a great fashion statement, even if one feels Di Felice has reached the end of the path with his staging. Please, no more white boxes.

 

The Row: Poetry and poise

A moment of fashion poetry and calm at The Row, where half the guests sat on deep-pile carpets in the grand Paris mansion where the show was staged.

Light filtered onto the guests, cast from the milky blue sky outside. None of the models wore footwear as they gently drifted through a series of rooms, serenaded by the acoustic guitar and soft horns of “Abussey Junction” by Kokoroko.
 
The mood reflected the purity of the clothes—especially the super trench coats, shortened with precise panels or flowing wide and nipped at the neck with two visible buttons. 
 
Every coat looked classy yet never attention-seeking—double-face cashmere wrap coats with tuxedo lapels, lambskin greatcoats in burgundy, or soft spy coats with big lapels in black leather.

These were precisely the kind of clothes that every lady editor and buyer wanted to wear—understated but never underwhelming, and thousands of miles from noisy Instagram. Attendance at the show even came with one condition: guests were prohibited from publishing iPhone photos on social media.
 

Dries Van Noten: A day at a closed opera

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

Looks like this succession plan will work at Dries Van Noten, where Julian Klausner presented what was effectively his third collection for the Belgian brand.
 
Unveiled at the Opéra Garnier, the collection earned substantial applause for Dries Van Noten’s designated successor. The mood was self-confident chic, particularly in mannish tailoring that honored the house’s codes while pushing them forward—blazers and double-breasted jackets crafted from silk tie fabrics, whether polka dot or geometric.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

 
The show opened with a lot of black—not traditionally a Dries color, perhaps—but still a series that worked, particularly the coats with peplums and pencil pants paired with silk scarf wrap tops.
 
Klausner also played on Dries’ ethnographic roots, incorporating snakeskin obis, cummerbunds, and Africa-style piping. He also tapped into the season’s biggest trend—faux exotic fur—with a great shearling coat in an Appaloosa print.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

 
All told, this marked a significant step up from his debut, where Klausner grappled with his choice of prints and silhouettes.
 
“I liked the idea of the cast visiting the opera on a day it was closed. Or after a show, wondering what might happen,” smiled Klausner backstage. Strangely, the backstage area was the most beautiful room in the Palais Garnier, while the runway itself was held in a darkened side passage with blacked-out windows.
 
When asked to define the DNA of Dries Van Noten, Klausner responded: “What I wanted was to be free. But for me, the key to Dries is the wardrobe—that people wear the clothes, and hopefully several times, and that they bring them joy.”
 
With the Puig cousins, who own Dries and four other fashion houses, standing nearby and beaming, one imagines women will be wearing these clothes for a long time. Yet, what might matter even more to the Catalan cousins is seeing their beloved Barcelona FC win the Champions League this year—though that seems less likely.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



Source link

Continue Reading

Fashion

Ralph Lauren to stage April 17 show in New York

Published

on


Ralph Lauren will stage a special runway show on April 17 in New York, marking his first return to the runway since his epic September display at a Hamptons horse farm.

©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 
The exact location remains undisclosed, but expectations are high for another unique setting. Lauren’s last runway show was a fashion spectacle set on an equestrian estate, attended by First Lady Jill Biden, Laura Dern, and Usher. Guests sipped cocktails and champagne while admiring a selection of Ralph Lauren’s vintage cars. Following the show, the 85-year-old designer hosted the audience for a surf-and-turf dinner in a near-perfect recreation of his famed Polo Bar restaurant.
 
That show featured designs from the Ralph Lauren, Purple Label, and Polo Ralph Lauren collections, showcasing menswear, womenswear, and childrenswear.

The house of Ralph Lauren confirmed to Fashion Network that this upcoming April show will focus exclusively on womenswear. It marks the latest time Ralph has shown outside New York Fashion Week, which was staged in February.
 
Beyond the runway, the house of Ralph Lauren has been active in other major projects, notably outfitting the U.S. Olympic team for the Paris 2024 Summer Olympics. The brand will also dress the Winter Olympic team in a dashing Dolomite-inspired collection for the upcoming Cortina d’Ampezzo Winter Games.
 
Financially, the company continues to thrive. In the three months ending December 28, turnover grew by 11% to $2.1 billion, reinforcing Ralph Lauren’s strong presence in the luxury market.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



Source link

Continue Reading

Fashion

Sycamore nears $10 billion acquisition of Walgreens Boots Alliance

Published

on


Sycamore Partners is nearing an acquisition of Walgreens Boots Alliance, people with knowledge of the matter said, in a deal that could end the beauty and health retailer’s tumultuous run as a public company.

Photo: Sandra Halliday

The private equity firm and US-based Walgreens are said to be putting the final touches on a transaction that may be announced as soon as this week. The Wall Street Journal reported earlier that Sycamore was closing in on a deal to acquire Walgreens for $11.30 to $11.40 per share in cash, or around $10 billion.

Following the news, Walgreens’ shares surged as much as 8.2%, closing at $10.84, which is understandable given the potential offer price.

If the deal proceeds, Walgreens would be removed from the stock market, marking the end of its public trading period, which has been characterised by declining revenues, legal challenges related to opioid prescriptions, and increasing competition in the healthcare sector.

Potential restructuring of Walgreens

A takeover by Sycamore could lead to a significant restructuring of WBA, potentially involving the break-up of the company’s various divisions. Its portfolio includes UK beauty and health chain Boots, US healthcare provider VillageMD, drugstore chain Duane Reade, and speciality pharmacy group Shields Health Solutions.

Boots in particular is interesting at the moment and despite some tough times in recent years, appears to be on a solid recovery trajectory that’s making the most of its strength in both mass-market and prestige beauty.

Analysts have long suggested that Walgreens’ complex business model would require restructuring to optimise its operations. Reports indicate that Stefano Pessina, Walgreens’ chairman and a key figure behind its 2014 merger with Alliance Boots, is expected to roll over his stake as part of the transaction.

While discussions are at an advanced stage, sources caution that delays or last-minute hurdles could still emerge before the official announcement.

Financing and previous takeover attempts

The transaction would require significant financing from banks, and reports suggest that several of the largest financial institutions in the US are preparing proposals to support the acquisition.

This isn’t the first time Walgreens has considered going private. In 2019, KKR & Co. explored a leveraged buyout of the company, but the deal ultimately collapsed. For Sycamore, this acquisition represents another high-profile retail deal, underscoring private equity’s continued interest in large-scale transactions within the healthcare and consumer sectors.

There have been a number of other attempts to sell the business but these have reportedly faltered on the inability to find a buyer who would pay the price WBA wanted.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



Source link

Continue Reading

Fashion

YSL Beauty launches Don’t Call It Love film as part of anti-abuse campaign

Published

on



YSL Beauty has unveiled a new global campaign, Don’t Call It Love, part of its Abuse Is Not Love programme.

 

It portrays a “seemingly idyllic Parisian romance where the warning signs of abuse are hidden in plain sight to educate about domestic violence”. 

Through the launch, the brand “invites a collective reflection on how it can contribute to healthier representations of love and create narratives that do not perpetrate toxic relationship norms”.

It comes as intimate partner violence (IPV) is the most common form of violence against women, affecting around 736 million women and girls globally with the behaviour linked to it “wrongly justified as love”. 

Since the launch of the Abuse Is Not Love programme in 2020, YSL Beauty has donated over €5.2 million to local NGO-partners and more than 1.3 million people have been trained or supported across 25+ markets.

The programme is also said to have “made significant strides in educating young people about IPV and empowering grassroots organisations on a global scale”.

The company said the campaign “cleverly subverts the timeless and expected codes of luxury advertising”. The people featured give an initial impression “of a magnetic and elegant couple”.

But we’re told that “as the story progresses, a subtle unease begins to creep in. Almost imperceptibly, warning signs of abuse emerge, woven into the fabric of these seemingly romantic scenes. Viewers are drawn into the narrative, initially captivated by the romance, then subtly unsettled by a growing sense of disquiet”.

The film abruptly halts, with the question: did you see signs of abuse in this film? The narrative then rewinds, “exposing the signs of abuse from each scene, hidden in plain sight”.

YSL said that “media portrayals of toxic relationships often romanticise, trivialise or even glamorise abusive behaviours, impacting young people’s understanding of healthy relationships”.

The campaign was brought to life by Léa Ceheivi, award-winning French film director, known for her collaborations with music titans Justice and luxury brands; Nicolas Loir, the director of photography, best known for his work within the music industry, notably with Blaze and also with luxury brands; and Dr Sara Kuburic, lead film consultant and doctor of psychotherapy, known widely as the Millennial Therapist.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



Source link

Continue Reading

Trending

Copyright © Miami Select.