A major revival and a veteran celebration were the key stories in Paris Fashion Week Tuesday, as Pieter Mulier presented his latest collection for Alaia in the brand’s spanking new HQ, and Jun Takahashi feted his 35th anniversary show.
 

Alaïa: Abstract geometry in the 11th arrondissement

On a chilly evening, Pieter Mulier presented a collection characterized by geometric abstraction for Alaïa, a noble manner to inaugurate the house’s brand-new headquarters in north Paris.

Both the new HQ and the Rue St. Servan were not fully finished causing a chaotic entry and exit from the show. Nonetheless, located just south of the famed Père Lachaise cemetery, the HQ trumpeted the renaissance of the house under the direction of Mulier, and the management of luxury behemoth, Richemont.

Though regarded as one of the greatest all-time designers, Azzedine Alaïa was notoriously stubborn – staging his rare shows months outside of fashion seasons, and, hence attracting few actual buyers. And ending a modest success given his innate talent.

Mulier to his credit manages to balance commercial with creditable, cool with cash register. His vision of Alaïa is respectful of his DNA, even as he extends its domain with unexpected materials and far more global influences.

This season, the Belgium-born designer explained he sought inspiration from multiple cultures: Bolivia, North Africa and the U.S. Yet there was nothing eclectic or culturally appropriative about the resulting clothes.
 
His revamped grass skirts, ethnographic headgear or Andean riffs all felt very new. The opening cowl headgear used with semi-sheer woolen tops or faux-leather puffer great coats with balloon necklines were all impressive. As was his super-heroine leather basketweave tops and slashed away blazers – Catherine de Medici on the Amazon.
 
Pieter cut shearling/mink coats and double-face cashmere coats diagonally with great flourish. All of them looked great. That said, it was far from a flawless display: due to too many repetitive pleated dresses and some overly theatrical shapes. A tad too many clothes for a runway and not real life.
 
But all told, this was a rather sublime collection cementing Mulier’s reputation as a fashion leader.
 
“The idea is to take the very essence of an idea or a garment and make it say ‘new’,” commented Mulier post-show. 
 
And, new this collection certainly was.

Undercover: Nostalgic, but not really

There are few more talented but willfully eccentric designers today than the great Jun Takahashi, whose 35th-anniversary collection of his brand Undercover actually commemorated his 20th-anniversary collection. Well, sort of.

See catwalk

His winter 2005 collection was entitled “but beautiful… part parasitic, part stuffed”. This season, his winter 2025 selection was named “but beautiful 4…”
 
Takahashi’s first clever idea was combining jogging pants from Champion with tailored jackets. A look that generally is slobby. But in Jun’s skillful hands, led to a poetic sense of comfort. Joggers with worn safaris or butterfly speckled blazers.
 
Two decades ago, his collection referenced Patti Smith and stuffed animals. This season, the entire soundtrack was from Nina Simone. From punk rock to soulful poetry, rather like these clothes. While the cast was composed of several familiar figures from Paris hipster world – like singer Joana Preiss.
 
The stuffed animals, however, made a brilliant return at finale with some outlandish avant-garde taxidermy. From two mashed up puffer ball gowns like deranged peacocks, to a trio of phantasmagorical feather creatures with illuminated headbands.
 

See catwalk

Finishing a show bristling with ideas inside the Salle Wagram, a 19th-century wrought iron and pine floor dance that is an iconic fashion show location in Paris.
 
In terms of global recognition, Jun Takahashi and Undercover will always remain obscure. However, for fashion insiders, Jun will always retain a high rank in the designer pantheon. His unexpected juxtaposition of ideas and forms, his sense of fashion poetry, his ability to funnel bizarre inspirations to suggest a fresh new fashion universe. Takahashi is a great designer who will always be cherished in Paris. While this collection, and his previous ideas from 20 years ago, will be loved.