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Paris Fashion Week opens with Weinsanto and IFM

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Paris Fashion Week opened on a Monday afternoon with the latest graduate show from the master class of the Institute de la Mode (IFM) and a display by Paris current favorite enfant terrible Victor Weinsanto.
 

Weinsanto: Cleverly completely nuts

Paris will always love a bit of a bad boy, and in that department, the city’s latest heartthrob is Victor Weinsanto, who kicked off the latest designer runway season in Paris on a sunny but chilly day.

Weinsanto – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

He has oodles of attitude, a rich imagination and is not afraid to take a few risks, as he did this season in a show staged in the disused basement of a former Holiday Inn in Place de la Republique.

His funky femme fatales appearing in blotchy denim coats that were, in fact, made of leather. Using the same material in kilts, jeans and even his own overshirt when he took his bow.

For evening, he went into a higher gear with silver leather bustiers paired with matching mini-skirts or a jumpsuit worn by a model whose matching silver hair reached her calves.
 
His cast liked spiky boots and shoes and major statement earrings. And when they get married, they do so in corset wedding gowns the better to show off their fitness. While his bridesmaid wear black dresses way of the shoulder cocktails with a full train added.

Weinsanto – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Victor entitled the collection “Complètement Givré”, a clever pun since it means both completely nuts and completely frosted, just like the silver series in the show. Born in eastern France in Alsace and trained in Jean-Paul Gaultier, Weinsanto is a singular French talent, which, in a moment of darkness and intolerance, we should cherish and applaud. 
 
His clothes are not for the faint-hearted, but this is Paris after all, and he is loved for that.
 

IFM: Looking like a potentially vintage crop

This year’s master’s class from IFM looks like it might be a very good vintage. A good half-dozen fledgling designers showed off plenty of talent, while as many again demonstrated the technical skills and dexterity to have long careers.

IFM Master of Arts collections
IFM Master of Arts collections – Courtesy

As ever at a student show, the self-editing button was switched off, as these young talents strove to stand out from the crowd. Inevitably, there were some absurdities, but overall, when there were, they at least they contained evidence of hard-working students giving their all.
 
At the risk of offending the absent, a half-dozen stood out. Kicking off with the aptly named Steven Chevalier, whose high-color party knights wore multicolored wool bouclé coats, painterly tops and buccaneer boots to pack plenty of wallop. His collection was named “Out Rage”, and one could see why.
 
Reece Liang’s blend of over-painted camouflage and metal mesh had great visual kick as did Darius Betschart’s bold cloaks paired with bloomers.
 
Top marks to some eye-punching cable sweaters and dresses by Clémentine Lagadec Thévoux-Chabuel, where her knits even extended over boxing boots. 
 
Filip Bejek’s collection, entitled “Anastasiia Kleptomanov”, was a neat visual pun on overconsumption. With one of his models carrying a giant stuffed transparent garment bag – as if fleeing the cops, or maybe a bailiff.
 
Each of the 26 designers from 13 countries were allowed to send out six looks. After several score, it was tricky to know who. So, we are guessing one of our favorite looks was Rachel Luurssen, where she out Pharrell-ed Pharrell Williams with a beautifully exaggerated denim jean/cocktail with massive lamb-of-mutton sleeves. She is definitely a name to watch.
 
Elsewhere, bravo for more excellent crochets and knits by Xingyi Jin. Think cool-gal gothic for 2024. And respect to Andu Yeonju Jang for clothes that managed to balance kicky and commercial.
 
Perhaps the most admired young talent was Wenji Wu, who wowed childishly grotesque comic book heroes fighting over knit tops. Later, Richard Baldomà sent out several great chopped up patchwork coats, before following that with an Adonis in a grand singlet gown made of the yellow and blue of the Ukrainian flag.
 
Today, Kiev is the center of a brave fight to maintain Ukraine’s independence and defeat barbarism by a cruel Russian regime. Shockingly suddenly supported by what we used to regard as the arsenal of democracy.
 
Here in Paris, fashion designers will always be in a struggle to freely express themselves via clothes, shows and ideas. These masters students today maintained that proud tradition. They sought liberty through self-expression. More power to them for doing so.
 
 

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ASOS launches Arrange premium brand with focus on design and elevation

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ASOS has a lot of headline-grabbing activity going on at the moment and following the recovering e-tail giant’s huge strategy announcement last week, now it has unveiled a brand new premium label.

ASOS Arrange

Called Arrange, and available exclusively via the webstore, it blends “directional design with a feminine edge”, we’re told. The company also said the label is “bringing a unique take on elevated dressing to ASOS’s audience of fashion-loving customers”.

“London-born and women-led”, Arrange offers “a capsule of standout occasion dresses and luxe essentials. Combining a couture sensibility with a practical mindset, each piece is designed and pattern-cut in-house from premium materials, and sized inclusively (from UK 4-30)”.

It’s interesting that the launch comes at the same time as rival Boohoo Group relaunches and rebrands PrettyLittleThing and it too is talking about luxury and elevation. It seems businesses once closely associated with fast fashion are aiming to move beyond that into a more highly-valued arena — and perhaps to focus less closely on a core 20-something audience.

ASOS Arrange
ASOS Arrange

Prices reflect this. While not at luxury level, they’re far from the ‘buy it in every colour and wear it just a few times’ pricing of fast fashion’s heyday.

For instance, a chiffon pleat maxi dress is £160, a cutwork dress is £180, an embellished halter top is £120, a geo sequin dress is £250, a barrel jean is £65, leather city shorts are £150, a blazer is £120, and a knot detail T-shirt is £35.

ASOS said the new line’s signature design details – “oversized paillettes, hand-painted prints, bold colours, [and] experimental silhouettes” – appear throughout the collection.

Meanwhile the e-tailer said the accompanying campaign “spotlights the collection’s distinctive aesthetic: beautiful craftsmanship and unexpected pairings of cut, colour, proportion and texture. A dramatic embellished skirt is pared back with an oversized white T-shirt; an ice-blue trapeze top is styled with tobacco suede trousers; a red co-ord reveals an impressive attention to detail in its white contrast stitching.

“A selection of signature pieces, like the barrel-leg Sydney jean, recur from season to season – putting a refined spin on the most-wanted silhouettes and inspiring collection and curation over time”.

ASOS Arrange
ASOS Arrange

Vanessa Spence, executive VP of Creative at ASOS, said “the designers’ passion for this premium brand shines through in the level of detail and craftsmanship in the collection”.

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Kipling stages first-ever London event for G.rilla Girlz launch

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Bags label Kipling has hosted its first-ever event in London, which it said “sets the stage for an exciting new chapter for the brand in the UK”.

Kipling

The event — at Village Underground in Shoreditch — late last week was staged to support the unveiling of its latest collection, G.rilla Girlz, “while celebrating its most iconic designs”. 

As part of a 360-degree marketing activation, the event brought together influencers, content creators, industry leaders and press for an immersive experience in support of a collection that’s described as “fresh and outgoing… designed for the now. It’s not just about bags, it’s a whole vibe. Iconic styles are reimagined with bold colours and smooth recycled satin, designed for the trendsetters who aren’t afraid to make a statement – unapologetically Kipling”.

It added that the G.rilla Girlz offer “was designed to match a unique vibe for every woman, making these bags the perfect companions for all lifestyles. The Kipling monkey played a starring role, reinforcing the brand’s core values of playfulness, creativity, and self-expression”.

The company said Village Underground “was carefully chosen to reflect the brand’s bold and playful energy, featuring a striking set-up that blended fur, metallic textures, and dynamic lighting, all paying homage to Kipling’s signature monkey mascot”.

Beyond the event, it has launched a two-week out-of-home campaign, featuring fly-postering across key locations in London, Belgium and Spain. 

Kipling

The highlight was a giant inflatable of Kipling’s signature monkey at King’s Cross Station last week. To celebrate, “Kipling invited fans to join the moment, with a few lucky winners receiving an invitation to the exclusive event”.

There was also a social media takeover to “showcase Kipling’s versatile bags in everyday moments, led by top influencers and creators”. 

Away from the London event, the brand’s key retail partners in other markets, including Inno (Belgium), El Corte Inglés (Spain) and Galleria (Germany), also activated in-store displays featuring furry installations, “bringing the campaign to life in a tactile, engaging way”.

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Shop price deflation continued in February as fashion stores discounted heavily says BRC

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Shop price inflation stayed as shop price deflation in February with the latest figures from the British Retail consortium showing prices fell 0.7% year on year last month. That was the same dip as it had reported in January. 

Photo: Pixabay

And for non-food products, the fall in the BRC-NIQ Shop Price Index was even more marked at 2.1%, a bigger drop than the 1.8% deficit seen in January.

The overall figure was skewed by the fact that food prices continued to rise, edging up by 2.1% in February compared to just a 1.6% increase in January.

And while food prices may not seem directly linked to fashion retailers and brands, the fact is that with prices for necessities still rising, consumer are more likely to cut back on discretionary items and fashion is frequently cited as the products they’ll leave on the store rails when money is tight.

That’s a key reason why non-food prices continue to fall with BRC chief executive Helen Dickinson saying that “discounting is still widespread in fashion as retailers tried to entice customers against a backdrop of weak demand”.

She expects inflation to rise across the board as the year progresses “with geopolitical tensions running high and the imminent £7 billion increase in costs from the Autumn Budget and the new packaging levy arriving on the doorsteps of retailers”.

The BRC expects food prices to be up by 4%+ by the second half of the year, and while Dickinson didn’t give a prediction for non-food prices, chances are that even more discounts will be required.

Mike Watkins, Head of Retailer and Business Insight, NielsenIQ, said: “With many household bills increasing over the next few weeks, shoppers will be looking carefully at their discretionary spend and this may help keep prices lower at non-food retailers.”

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