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Harrods buying director hails Fendi and Erdem collections, thinks shaggy textures are key

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As the world’s leading store buyers continue to analyse the key messages from Fashion Month so far, Simon Longland of Harrods has delivered his verdict.

Fendi – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The luxury department store’s fashion director of buying has given a thumbs-up to Fendi from Milan and London’s Erdem.

He said that “Fendi stood out as the highlight of Milan Fashion Week, delivering a collection that seamlessly blended heritage craftsmanship with modern sophistication. The house’s ability to balance tradition with contemporary allure made it a clear frontrunner of the season”.

As for Erdem, he thinks “London Fashion Week AW25 was a study in refined impact, with Erdem delivering the season’s most exceptional collection — its poetic elegance amplified by a masterful presentation at the British Museum”.

In terms of the fashion show event itself, he was also impressed by Dolce & Gabbana, which “mastered the art of spectacle, with models seamlessly transitioning from the runway to an open-air setting, where a live DJ set brought the energy of the show to the surrounding crowds. This immersive format blurred the lines between the exclusive fashion world and the city itself, creating a dynamic and inclusive experience”.

The key trends he’s focusing on from Milan include shaggy textures. “Shearling and faux fur dominated the runways, appearing in full jackets and coats as well as linings, and trims on trousers and skirts,” he said.

He also took note of the muted palette with a pop of red.

“Black and ivory formed the foundation of most collections, while shades of brown — from soft latte hues to deep espresso — emerged as the strongest colour story. Where designers did embrace colour, red was the undeniable standout, ranging from bright scarlet to deep Bordeaux,” he explained.

Longland noted the leather and suede resurgence too “as a natural complement to the shaggy trend… and not just restricted to outerwear pieces”.

Oversized knitwear was also key with “chunky, enveloping knitwear add[ing] to the season’s theme of tactile comfort and understated luxury”.

Erdem – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

But his must-have piece for AW25 from Milan was “a beautifully crafted shearling coat” that he thinks “is set to be the ultimate wardrobe investment for the season, embodying both warmth and timeless elegance”.

His key themes from London meanwhile included “green in its many shades — mint, apple, grass — woven through collections at Erdem, Huishan Zhang, and Emilia Wickstead, while embellishment took centre stage, from crystal-encrusted gowns to subtle sequin panels. 

“A 1960s influence brought reimagined pillbox hats, sculptural minis, and novelty PVC coats at Emilia Wickstead and Huishan Zhang, while colour palettes softened — muted yet intentional tones defining Roksanda, Erdem, and Edeline Lee”.

As with Milan, he saw outerwear as a key “statement of both function and indulgence” but here it seems to have been less about shaggy textures than luxe details, colour and functionality. 

Longland liked “Huishan Zhang’s crystal details and Simone Rocha’s pearl-embellished hardware [that] elevated utility into luxury. Nowhere was this more evident than at Burberry, where trenches, greatcoats, and rain capes in deep earth tones reasserted the house’s mastery of protection from the elements. The iconic check appeared with subtle restraint, reinforcing heritage through quiet sophistication”.

He thought art “left its mark” too, particularly in Erdem’s collaboration with Kaye Donachie that “brought portraiture to fabric”, while SS Daley “channelled Francis Cadell’s brushwork, and Roksanda reinterpreted Phyllida Barlow’s sculptural language into volume and form”.

Overall in London, he thought the season “was about restraint and impact — where luxury was deliberate, innovation measured, and the conversation between past and present more compelling than ever”.

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Mr Porter unveils Spring Wardrobe Campaign

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Men’s high-end online fashion platform Mr Porter has launched its Spring Wardrobe Campaign from today (3 March).

Mr Porter

Showcasing “coveted essentials and must-try trends”, the 43-piece new season edit includes “the elevated nostalgia” of A.Presse workwear-inspired silhouettes, refined tailoring from Gucci, lightweight outerwear from Saint Laurent, understated denim from Tom Ford and shirting from Dries Van Noten “form versatile foundations for the season”. 

Finishing touches range from fine jewellery by David Yurman, to accessories by Bottega Veneta and footwear from Mr P.

Buying director Daniel Todd said: “With our Spring Wardrobe campaign, Mr Porter continues to be the go-to destination for menswear, with our coveted brand list and unrivalled edits making the shift to warm weather dressing effortless and enjoyable.”

The launch follows quickly on from Mr Porter’s first campaign of 2025, releasing ‘The New Essentials’, a 44-piece edit collection at the end of January. It too is focused on a curated collection of new-season essentials and “key investment pieces… designed for the ultimate capsule wardrobe that effortlessly blends modern tailoring with elevated staples” from Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Mr P, The Elder Statesman, Saman Amel, Stòffa and Bode with accessories from Tom Ford, Drake’s and Métier.

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After contract wins and category expansion, sizing tech firm Makip sets up official UK subsidiary

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Online sizing technology provider Makip says it’s “rapidly expanding”, and if confirmation is required, the business has officially entered the UK market, establishing Makip London Limited.

The Japanese company, whose online sizing technology Unisize is a provider to major retailing brands such as Lacoste, Fred Perry and Calvin Klein, calls entering  the UK “an important step in accelerating its global expansion and is part of its strategy to strengthen its presence in overseas markets”.

Commenting on the continued expansion in the UK, Shingo Tsukamoto, president of Makip, said: “Establishing our UK subsidiary is just the beginning. Our goal is to ensure that the products we have refined in Japan are equally valued in the UK market. 

“Together with our overseas team, we are committed to taking on the challenges faced by UK retailers to deliver performances worthy of the reputation we have built over a decade of working in Japan and becoming the most popular online sizing technology. Looking ahead, I aim to position Makip, and Unisize, as a leading name in UK Fashion Tech within a few years.”  
 
He noted that the issue of “inadequate size information in apparel e-commerce leads to persistently high return rates.

“This has increased the return handling costs for retailers and raised environmental concerns as returned products are often discarded. Unisize addresses these issues as has the user data to prove it.”
 
Tsukamoto concluded: “By identifying local needs and offering a unique and highly accurate online sizing service we aim to help UK retailers overcome the challenges they face with online sizing and enhance the overall online customer experience. 
 
“The establishment of Makip London Limited is just the beginning, we will continue to grow our market presence, listen to the local needs and experiences of our customers and offer true business value by both increasing sales and reducing returns.”

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PrettyLittleThing reveals mega-rebrand as it looks to “complete renewal”

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Boohoo Group’s PrettyLittleThing (PLT) business on Monday unveiled a complete rebrand with the company saying this is PLT’s “most ambitious transformation since revolutionising digital fashion in 2012”.

Umar Kamani

Dubbed “A legacy In Progress”, we’re told it “heralds an elevated new era that celebrates the brand’s heritage while boldly reimagining its future”.

The site rebrand includes a complete overhaul of its look and feel, including the logo design, colour palette, typography, and website design, the tone of voice, website user experience, and overall brand positioning.

It also includes the removal of all previous social media content “as part of the brand’s complete renewal”. Its social channels went down at midnight on Sunday and returned at 18:00 GMT on Monday.

And while this is a newly-announced initiative, the company said that the transformation actually began back in September 2024 when founder Umar Kamani returned to the helm “with a passionate commitment to reconnect with customers. Through months of direct customer dialogue and feedback, Kamani has shaped a vision that captures the essence of modern sophistication”.

The new PrettyLittleThing
The new PrettyLittleThing

So what does that mean in practical terms? Well, the “evolution” launches with “two standout collections”. They are PLT Label, “setting a new standard in contemporary elegance”, and New Beginnings, described as a “sophisticated celebration of modern style”.

The company has also reimagined PLT’s visual identity and the distinctive unicorn emblem, “once a playful symbol in bubblegum pink, has matured into a sophisticated, heritage-inspired mark that marries the elegance of a historic coat of arms with modern design”. 

Continuing the elevation theme, PLT said the new monochrome emblem “pays homage to the craftsmanship of luxury house emblems while maintaining the unique spirit that has always set PrettyLittleThing apart”. 

The company's new wordmark
The company’s new wordmark

There’s also a reimagined wordmark that’s intended to be “a modern take on classic typography, blending timeless heritage with a youthful edge”, and once again, a “confident” shift in the colour palette from that bubblegum pink to “rich tones” of garnet, rose petal, and blush sand.”

Kamani added that this is “more than a rebrand – it’s a movement that celebrates our customers’ evolving style. We’re writing the next chapter of fashion history, and we’re just getting started”.

The new look from PLT
The new look from PLT

The rebrand also includes “an exclusive gathering” during Paris Fashion Week, “a pivotal moment that marks PrettyLittleThing’s elegant arrival in the world’s fashion capital. This event will showcase the new world of PrettyLittleThing with a ‘quiet luxury’ sensibility – featuring subtle branding, a chic venue, and a refined guest list that embodies our forward-looking identity”.

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