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Milan Saturday: A tale of the two F’s: Ferrari and Ferragamo

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A tale of two F’s on Saturday morning in Milan, with big-budget shows by Ferrari and Ferragamo, as the six-day Milan Fashion Week entered its penultimate day.
 

Ferrari: It’s official—Ferrari does office wear

It felt like a major change of brief at Ferrari, with a more upmarket take on fashion and clothes for career men and women.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

Gone were the pricey versions of Off-White that characterized much of the first collections by designer Rocco Iannone for Ferrari. In their place were some dashing tailoring and sleek cocktails that would not have looked out of place—at least in their youth—on Marella or Gianni Agnelli, the Fiat billionaire who acquired the Formula One marque from founder Enzo Ferrari.
 
Presented with panache inside the former Teatro Versace in the happening Porta Ticinese neighborhood of south Milan, the collection also underlined Rocco’s considerable range.

The show opened with assured belt coats and neat cashmere Eisenhowers as the cast toured four parallel runways. The tailoring was surgical and snappy, often crafted from a dense pile of chalk-stripe fabric, seen in raffish double-breasted jackets and blazers with slant pockets for both men and women. All finished at the back with raised seams and a car medallion logo on the nape.
 
Plus, in a season that marked the massive return of fur, Rocco showcased bold horse-hair Klondike coats, paired long skirts with crisp mannish shirts, and introduced dramatic iridescent shearling winter greatcoats.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

 
The models appeared against a striking imperial Roman purple velvet backdrop, highlighting the golden goatskin jean jackets and sleek evening cocktails—perfect for formal events and clubbing.
 
“The ethos of the brand is told through garments that condense precise aesthetic and artisanal values—sensuality, a sense of volume, a vibrant authentic and chromatic research—while defining, all together, a concrete and authentic apparatus,” read Rocco’s somewhat highfalutin program notes.
 
Soundtracked by Ibiza dance tracks and “Flying Apples” by Fabio Martoglio and worn by a stunning cast, there were worse ways to begin a Saturday morning in damp Milan.
 

Ferragamo:  A dance to the music of Pina

A fine, frequently fabulous collection from Ferragamo was staged rather oddly amid the murkiest of light, evoking this house’s mysterious and somewhat muddy performance.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

Ferragamo’s creative director, Maximilian Davis, clearly has the design chops for the role and has earned critical approval. Every key scribe in Milan gathered backstage to celebrate Davis and hang on his every word after the show.

On the runway is a poetic and evocative collection inspired by Pina Bausch, using relatively easy shapes but made in the most opulent fabrics.
 
“It’s a story about Ferragamo and dance. What I wanted to reference was Pina’s style and sense of comfort, where everything was very easy—effortless pieces,” explained the UK-raised designer.
 
The collection opened with simple sheaths, leggings, taut tops layered under languidly cut double-face cashmere coats, and T-shirts made from wool cashmere and georgette slip dresses.
 
The ladies’ tailoring was classy, from the crisp mannish blazers to several punchy leather suits with horn buttons. Davis also embraced Milan’s biggest trend: using shearling treated to look like fox, wolf, or mink—most brilliantly woven into semi-sheer cocktails or a rock goddess evening jacket worn with a sinful red negligee.

In a co-ed show, men wore roomy suits featuring mega-wide loon pants with reverse pleats, harlequin sweaters, or pale princely gray cashmere banker’s suits.

All walked on thousands of scented paper rose petals, an idea culled from the house’s ’80s archives.

“All of Pina’s work is about romance, passion, and tension, and I wanted that in the show,” Davis smiled, who has yet to design costumes for dance.

However, much like the moody lighting, the styling felt overly complicated—with models maneuvering double handbags at their waists while wearing cashmere body stockings.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

 
This show, staged in a factory in northern Milan used by multiple brands, also raised plenty of questions. If Davis is so talented, why are Ferragamo’s numbers struggling? Sales declines over the past two years led to the departure of CEO Marco Gobbetti barely three years after his arrival. Gobbetti, who hired Davis, bid farewell today.
 
In the end, one wonders if Davis’ vision might be too refined for the Ferragamo woman—especially, and ironically, his best looks: a divine red cock-feather cocktail dress and a finale black silk cocktail dress adorned with fabric stems and flowers.
 
“That was about taking the most common pieces and reimagining them in unexpected ways—like stitching the feathers up rather than down so they have a more ruffled effect. But at their core, these are still straightforward shift dresses,” said Davis.

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Mayor asks for Londoners’ views on Oxford Street’s traffic-free future

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​The Mayor of London is aiming to move forward with his ultimate aim to pedestrianise Oxford Street and has launched a consultation  to get the views of Londoners and businesses on the proposal.

Photo: Pixabay/Public domain

They have until 2 May to let Sir Sadiq Khan know what they think with the Mayor hoping that the long-discussed pedestrianisation will create a “world-class, accessible, clean, avenue” that will boost visitor numbers to the famous shopping street, create jobs, and boost the city’s overall growth.

Pedestrianisation has been discussed for decades but the last attempt to push it through in 2018 was derailed by then-Conservative-controlled Westminster City Council, which said local residents were against the idea.

The Mayor now has greater planning powers for the area following changes after last year’s general election and the arrival of the new Labour government, which means he can take control of the area away from the council, which itself is now Labour-controlled.

Sir Sadiq said: “Oxford Street has been known as the nation’s high street but the area has suffered in recent years. My proposals are designed to unlock the true potential of Oxford Street and deliver a world-class, accessible, clean, avenue. These proposals would help to restore this famous part of the capital and support good businesses, while creating new jobs and boosting growth.”

Dee Corsi, CEO of New West End Company said: “We have long championed the regeneration of Oxford Street, recognising its vital importance to London and the UK economy. The launch of the public consultation marks a significant milestone in the journey of the nation’s high street.”

And Kate Nicholls, chief executive of UKHospitality, said the proposed changes would turn the area into “one of Europe’s biggest plazas”. 

But while the pedestrianisation is general seen as a good thing, there’s no denying that banning traffic from a massive artery in the middle of London would create problems elsewhere. 

Daytime traffic is already restricted to buses and taxis but with those removed, adjoining and parallel roads are likely to see heavier traffic.

And while pedestrianisation could boost shopping, the removal of the ability to hop of a bus or into a cab outside Selfridges, John Lewis et al while carrying bags of shopping could be an issue. Disabled access could also be reduced.

Sir Sadiq, who has the backing of deputy PM and local government secretary Angela Rayner, added: “This is a street that contributes hugely to our national economy. But over the last few years it has been in decline due to a combination of competition from online shopping and out of town centre malls. It needs to have an injection of inward investment from future flagship stores.”

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Harrods buying director hails Fendi and Erdem collections, thinks shaggy textures are key

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As the world’s leading store buyers continue to analyse the key messages from Fashion Month so far, Simon Longland of Harrods has delivered his verdict.

Fendi – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The luxury department store’s fashion director of buying has given a thumbs-up to Fendi from Milan and London’s Erdem.

He said that “Fendi stood out as the highlight of Milan Fashion Week, delivering a collection that seamlessly blended heritage craftsmanship with modern sophistication. The house’s ability to balance tradition with contemporary allure made it a clear frontrunner of the season”.

As for Erdem, he thinks “London Fashion Week AW25 was a study in refined impact, with Erdem delivering the season’s most exceptional collection — its poetic elegance amplified by a masterful presentation at the British Museum”.

In terms of the fashion show event itself, he was also impressed by Dolce & Gabbana, which “mastered the art of spectacle, with models seamlessly transitioning from the runway to an open-air setting, where a live DJ set brought the energy of the show to the surrounding crowds. This immersive format blurred the lines between the exclusive fashion world and the city itself, creating a dynamic and inclusive experience”.

The key trends he’s focusing on from Milan include shaggy textures. “Shearling and faux fur dominated the runways, appearing in full jackets and coats as well as linings, and trims on trousers and skirts,” he said.

He also took note of the muted palette with a pop of red.

“Black and ivory formed the foundation of most collections, while shades of brown — from soft latte hues to deep espresso — emerged as the strongest colour story. Where designers did embrace colour, red was the undeniable standout, ranging from bright scarlet to deep Bordeaux,” he explained.

Longland noted the leather and suede resurgence too “as a natural complement to the shaggy trend… and not just restricted to outerwear pieces”.

Oversized knitwear was also key with “chunky, enveloping knitwear add[ing] to the season’s theme of tactile comfort and understated luxury”.

Erdem – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

But his must-have piece for AW25 from Milan was “a beautifully crafted shearling coat” that he thinks “is set to be the ultimate wardrobe investment for the season, embodying both warmth and timeless elegance”.

His key themes from London meanwhile included “green in its many shades — mint, apple, grass — woven through collections at Erdem, Huishan Zhang, and Emilia Wickstead, while embellishment took centre stage, from crystal-encrusted gowns to subtle sequin panels. 

“A 1960s influence brought reimagined pillbox hats, sculptural minis, and novelty PVC coats at Emilia Wickstead and Huishan Zhang, while colour palettes softened — muted yet intentional tones defining Roksanda, Erdem, and Edeline Lee”.

As with Milan, he saw outerwear as a key “statement of both function and indulgence” but here it seems to have been less about shaggy textures than luxe details, colour and functionality. 

Longland liked “Huishan Zhang’s crystal details and Simone Rocha’s pearl-embellished hardware [that] elevated utility into luxury. Nowhere was this more evident than at Burberry, where trenches, greatcoats, and rain capes in deep earth tones reasserted the house’s mastery of protection from the elements. The iconic check appeared with subtle restraint, reinforcing heritage through quiet sophistication”.

He thought art “left its mark” too, particularly in Erdem’s collaboration with Kaye Donachie that “brought portraiture to fabric”, while SS Daley “channelled Francis Cadell’s brushwork, and Roksanda reinterpreted Phyllida Barlow’s sculptural language into volume and form”.

Overall in London, he thought the season “was about restraint and impact — where luxury was deliberate, innovation measured, and the conversation between past and present more compelling than ever”.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Oscars’ red carpet features sculptural and shiny gowns and some props

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Reuters

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March 3, 2025

“Wicked” star Ariana Grande walked the Oscars red carpet on Sunday in a sculptural flared pink top and a tulle skirt by Schiaparelli, one of several actors to make bold fashion statements.

Reuters

Whoopi Goldberg wore a shiny blue gown with a flared skirt, while British actress Yasmin Finney sported a black dress featuring feathery attachments that shot over her head.

“A Complete Unknown” star Elle Fanning chose a lacy white gown with a full skirt and black belt, while “The Brutalist” best supporting actress nominee Felicity Jones wore a silver dress with slits and a tie around the waist.

Demi Moore, favored to win best actress for “The Substance,” won a sparkling silver gown with a train flowing behind her.

Zoe Saldana, a favorite to win best supporting actress for her turn in “Emilia Perez,” wore a multi-tiered maroon dress with a sparkling top and long gloves on her arms.

“A Complete Unknown” best supporting actress nominee Monica Barbaro won a voluminous high-waisted pink skirt with a sparkly top.
Halle Berry wore a strapless silver gown with shiny small tiles running down the dress, while Gal Gadot chose a bright red gown with a full skirt.

Among the men, the black tuxedo was popular and Oscars host Conan O’Brien sported one. But Jeff Goldblum picked a white jacket and a floral purple shirt with purple flowers attached to his lapel.

“A Complete Unknown” best actor nominee Timothee Chalamet chose a lemon yellow suit and shirt.

Colman Domingo, nominated for best actor for “Sing Sing,” amped up his look with a bright red jacket and shirt and black lapels to go with the black trousers.

Comedian Bowen Yang wore a pink shirt and an embroidered leather jacket with no tie.

The creators behind the animated film “Wallace & Gromit: Vengeance Most Fowl” carried props related to their film, and one of the directors of the documentary feature about Ukraine, “Porcelain War,” carried a small dog in his arms.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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