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Fendi fetes its century in style

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February 27, 2025

Fendi feted its century of existence in style Wednesday with a great and often beguiling collection designed by Silvia Fendi, a granddaughter of the brand’s founders.

Fendi – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Though launched and still based in Rome, the show was staged in Milan, in Fendi’s north Italian headquarters with considerable style.
 
Sarah Jessica Parker, Hailee Steinfeld, Ashley Park and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu sat front row, joining Sean Paul who later performed a set inside the soaring south Milan space. Redone in thick pile banquettes to host this collection, which smartly riffed on some Fendi classics even as it broke new ground.

Founded in 1925 by Adele and Edoardo Fendi as a fur and leather shop, which quickly became a destination for sophisticated shoppers. All the way to the post-war Dolce Vita era when international movie stars shooting in Rome’s Cinecittà film studios began discovering the brand.
 
A second generation of Fendi five sisters, each with 20%, owned and skillfully developed the brand, hiring Karl Lagerfeld to guide its fashion creation in 1965.

Fendi – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 
Fendi is most celebrated for its remarkable exotic fur, though Silvia turned a new page with a series of great shearling coats and stoles made to look like fox, mink and sable, but were not.
 
The cast appearing out of a towering double door – made to resemble the entrance to the brand’s historic boutique and salon on Via Borgognona. The first look, a flawless flared coat worn as a dress – with funnel collar and waist cinched with a gold belt. Silvia also showed some marvelous tubular leather coats and beautiful double face cashmere redingotes.
 
Worn by a cast of young hopefuls and famed veterans: Eva Herzigova in an accordion pleat silk cocktail; Edie Campbell in a strass-encrusted tweed cocoon coat; or Natasha Poly in a dazzling metallic skirt and cashmere cardigan. Before Silvia sent the atelier into overdrive with chevron and zig zag mink coats that reeked rich.
 
Today, Fendi is part of the luxury empire of LVMH, though its creation is still family driven by the third generation Silvia.
 
“I didn’t want to spend too much time dwelling on the physical archives. For me, Fendi 100 is more about my personal memories – real or imagined – of what Fendi was and what Fendi means today,” explained Silvia.

Fendi – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

While the fourth generation Delfina Delettrez Fendi dreamed up the jewelry for this show – fur-like textures, from snake chain collars to chandelier ‘fountain’ earrings. With sterling silver obelisk pendants and FF ball chain necklaces for men in a co-ed show.  Delfina’s two seven-year-old twins Dardo and Tarzio even kicked off the action by opening the huge doors, a fifth generation playing a charming role.
 
The pair dressed in replicas of an equestrian look originally designed by Karl. Talk about blending the past with the present.
 

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Jil Sander, the Meiers take a long, slow final bow

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February 26, 2025

If, as most people believe, the designers of Jil Sander, Luke and Lucie Meier are about to be replaced, they certainly have left Germany’s most famous fashion label on a high note.
 

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

A bold blend of sharp tailoring, punchy effects, unusual material mixes, and urban chic was an admirable final collection in their tenure at Jil Sander, a house founded in Hamburg in 1973.
 
Staged in funeral black, with two narrow runways beneath black-curtained walls, in dim undertaker’s light, the mood and the collection were sombre as one entered from a sunny Wednesday morning at Milan Fashion Week

That said, the clothes often dazzled, from pink shard dresses to metallic silver plissé cocktails. The design duo’s big idea was plastic shard skirt dresses—cut like techy Pacific Island chic.
 

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

In a co-ed show, the guys appeared in Edwardian coats and blazers bristling with cock feathers and biker leather suits in electric blue, while a series of coats for men and women featured ingenious degradé colouring, beginning in black and fading into bronze, then white at their high funnel necks.
 

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

Considering that Jil Sander was once dubbed “the Queen of Less,” this felt like a very distant “More is More”—especially the shoes: hyper-studded and spiked winklepickers and brothel creepers. There was nothing minimal about them.
 
In truth, the house of Jil Sander has had an erratic history since the founder departed in 2004 after repeated clashes with then-owner Patrizio Bertelli of Prada. Ownership changed hands several times, including to a vulture fund, before being acquired by OTB and its chairman, Renzo Rosso, the Italian billionaire founder of Diesel, in 2021.
 
However, for several seasons now, Renzo Rosso has been openly expressing his desire to make Jil Sander into an Italian Hermès with an edge. This collection was far from that. Indeed, if one could fault Luke and Lucie Meier for anything, it was that the collection, with its sharp lines and exaggerated finishes, felt more targeted at critics than clients.
 
Three weeks ago, Rosso named Serge Brunschwig from Fendi as Jil Sander’s new CEO, underlining that change is on the way. That change came shortly after the show with news that the Meiers were out.

They clearly knew the end was near, but they can leave Jil Sander with their heads held high (and some well-earned applause during their long, rather mournful tour of the catwalk). Their seven-year tenure featured several excellent collections that were among the half-dozen best in fashion in certain seasons—no easy feat to achieve, rest assured.

For the future, the current favourite to replace them at Jil Sander is Daniel Lee of Burberry. Stay tuned as the career carousel that high fashion has become takes another turn.

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Primark to roll out Click & Collect to all UK stores by summer

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February 26, 2025

Value fashion and lifestyle retail giant will complete rolling out its Click & Collect service to all 186 stores across the UK for summer, months ahead of schedule. Eighteen new stores are set to go C&C live from today (26 February) taking the total number of Primark stores to 131 across England and Wales, almost three-quarters of its UK estate.

And as the rollout continues, Primark said “thousands more products” will be available to shoppers for the first time, including women’s, men’s, kids and homewares, as well as the retailer’s new adaptive clothing range launched last month.

Although the retailer continues to avoid selling goods online, its customers can browse and order on its website before picking up their items in store from two days later.

Kari Rodgers, UK Retail director, said: “We know that our customers love the convenience that Click & Collect offers, as well as the opportunity to access ranges otherwise only found in larger stores. With the roll out now due to complete in time for summer we hope this will help make summer holiday shopping that little bit easier.”

Meanwhile, Primark said independent research conducted by Public First claims the retailer now contributes £2.6 billion to the UK economy and supports 54,000 jobs across the country.

Additionally, it said 2.3 million people cite Primark as the main reason for visiting their high street each week, with every £10 spent at a Primark store also generating an additional £3.60 for the high street. “This means Primark supports around £1 billion of spending in other stores and £500 million in restaurants each year”, it noted.

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Strathberry opens fourth store and second in hometown Edinburgh

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February 26, 2025

Scottish “accessible luxury” brand Strathberry has opened its fourth store. The new Victoria Street, Edinburgh, store becomes the handbag-centric brand’s second location in the city, adding to its Multrees Walk store, which opened in 2020.

Embracing the listed property’s architectural features, the store also includes its Strathberry Lounge, decorated with a selection of curated books, decorative and locally sourced objects, “conveying a sense of home and warmth”.

Inspired by art and culture, Strathberry’s design features bespoke wall art as part of is ongoing collaboration with local Scottish artists and craftspeople. It includes local artist Hayley McCrirrick’s commission to create artwork inspired by the colourways of the brand’s signature styles.

Founded by husband-and-wife team Guy and Leeanne Hundleby in 2013, they describe the new store as “exuding a contemporary yet heartfelt charm” while complementing the original store on Multrees Walk and London stores on Burlington Arcade and in Covent Garden.

The expanding business, which is expected to deliver a new set of  accounts in April, has a track record for growing sales and profits. Accounts filed for the year ended last April showed an increase in turnover and rises in all measures of profit. Then, turnover increased to £26.88 million from £17.382 million in the previous 12 months. And despite the cost of sales increasing by almost £5 million and admin expenses rising by more than £2 million, gross profit was up to £15 million from £10.28 million and operating profit increased to just short of £3 million from £1.36 million.

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