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Bullring and Westquay owner Hammerson sees record results in “transformative” year

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February 26, 2025

After a “transformative” fiscal 2024, Hammerson said Wednesday (26 February) the commercial property giant is now “repositioned to drive growth”. With key destinations in the UK, France and Ireland (including 10 city locations ranked in the top 20 of all retail venues across its geographies), it was “another record year” of leasing, up 56% and 13% over estimated rental value (ERV).

Bullring

Occupancy also improved to over 95%, with few leasable units in most locations, “driving rental tension across our portfolio”. In the year, 262 leases were signed on 1m sq ft of space generating annual headline rent of £41m, “another record performance” on a like-for-like basis.

It also described occcupier demand as “robust” with £8.6m of headline income already exchanged in 2025, 10% above previous passing rent and 11% ahead of ERV. There is also “good visibility and a strong pipeline for the remainder of 2025, underpinning our confidence in the outlook”, it stressed.

And performance in key trading periods stood out. It said Black Friday, Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve all saw year-on-year increases of 10-12% for all its flagship destinations. For instance, its Westquay mall had 112,000 visitors on the Saturday of Black Friday weekend, its highest number since November 2017.

There was also good footfall momentum to report in the final quarter, “reflecting new openings and seasonal events”, with UK footfall up 17% quarter-on-quarter, also up 16% in Ireland and by 5% in France. That meant hosting 170 million visitors across its destinations (+600,000). 

Investment in its Bullring and Dundrum centres has also paid dividends, generating £184 million of rent “benefiting from [the] halo effect of repositioning”.

This included the repositioning of Cabot Circus and The Oracle in 2024, already securing £52 million of rent contracted. Investments will see marquee openings in 2025 such as M&S at Cabot Circus, and TK Maxx at The Oracle.

Rita-Rose Gagné, chief executive of Hammerson, said:In landing the pivotal sale of Value Retail and completing our non-core disposals, we have generated £1.5 billion of cash proceeds over the last four years, materially strengthening our capital structure, and enabling investment for growth in our high-quality portfolio.

She added: “Cities are engines of economic growth, and we have concentrated our portfolio on exceptional assets in some of Europe’s fastest growing and most vibrant cities. The flight to quality where occupiers want fewer and more productive stores in only these locations, enables us to attract leading global and local brand partners. 

The physical experience has become more relevant for consumers and our brand partners, with at least 80% of all retail transactions touching a store.”

And its FY25 outlook? “We will see marquee openings in Cabot Circus and The Oracle as we bring major new uses to each of these assets, matching our experiences and building momentum at Bullring and Dundrum. 

“We have already secured £8.6m of leases in 2025, the pipeline is robust, and discussions are progressing on other acquisitions.

Notwithstanding the uncertainty in the macroeconomic environment, our portfolio is well positioned to drive rental growth and earnings from the high demand for scarce, relevant space where brands are consolidating.”

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Shein reports two child labour cases in 2024 as it increased supplier audits

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February 26, 2025

Fast-fashion retailer Shein found two cases of child labour at its suppliers last year, the same number as in 2023, following more audits of its mostly China-based third-party manufacturers, the company told British lawmakers in a letter.

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The disclosure by Shein, which is planning an initial public offering in London, was in a February 7 response to questions from a British parliamentary committee. It was written by Yinan Zhu, Shein’s general counsel for Europe, Middle East and Africa, and published late Tuesday.

Shein has faced allegations of worker abuses in its supply chain, and the cross-party Business and Trade Committee questioned Zhu in person in January, following up with letters asking for additional information.

In the letter, Zhu said one of the incidents involved a child aged 11 years and 8 months, whom the audit found spent time during the summer holiday at a factory where her father was the general manager and her mother worked, and “helped with tasks”.

“Nonetheless, and irrespective of these details, we took the issue extremely seriously, including designating the incident as child labour and immediately terminating our relationship with the supplier,” Zhu said in the letter.

The second case was 15 years and 3 months. Zhu also gave the ages of the children Shein previously said it found working at suppliers in 2023 as 15 years and 11 months, and 15 years and 9 months.

Shein conducted around 4,300 audits in 2024, covering about 317,000 workers, up from 4,000 audits in 2023 covering 285,000 workers, according to the letter.

“We take a strict zero tolerance approach to child labour,” Zhu wrote. “We will continue to work tirelessly to ensure that these isolated cases are removed from our supply chain entirely in future, bringing our network of third-party suppliers globally, including in China, Brazil and Turkey, along with us.”

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EU proposes cutting back sustainability laws for companies

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February 26, 2025

The European Commission on Wednesday proposed sweeping changes to EU green rules, scrapping sustainability reporting requirements for thousands of companies and delaying its due diligence policy by a year.

Reuters

Under the proposals, only companies with over 1,000 employees would be obliged to report on their environmental and human rights impact.

The rules currently target firms with over 250 employees, and the commission said the change would exempt 40,000 companies – or 80% of all firms the policy was originally designed to apply to.

The proposals will need to be negotiated and approved by the European Parliament and EU member states.

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Lucie and Luke Meier are out at Jil Sander

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February 26, 2025

It may be widely expected but it’s still a shock when highly respected designers are ousted from their creation director posts and so it was on Wednesday as, post-AW25 runway show, we learned that Jil Sander and its creative chiefs Lucie and Luke Meier “have mutually decided that this collection would be the last of their collaboration”.

Jil Sander – Fall-Winter2023 – 2024 – Womenswear – Milan – © ImaxTree

Their impending exit has been talked about for months and finally came just after they showed a collection that received — like many of their previous collections — widespread praise.

And unlike some creative director exits, the parties concerned were full of praise for each other. Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB Group, owner of the Jil Sander brand, said he “wishes to thank Lucie and Luke for their vision, passion for excellence, and dedication to the brand”.

At the same time, in a press release, OTB said “the designers seize this occasion to express their heartfelt gratitude to OTB and the Jil Sander teams who have consistently dedicated their energy, passion, and talent to this project, and are proud of the work they have accomplished alongside such wonderful people. A special thanks as well to Mr Rosso”.

The company didn’t share any information about what happens next, although there have been rumours for some time that Daniel Lee might be exiting a changing Burberry to helm the label. As for the Meiers, they’re likely to be in demand after their creatively successful tenure at Jil Sander.

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