Swarovski’s recent Ariana Grande collab launch was huge deal for the company and garnered headlines globally. It was also a major move operationally with the company opening some department store pop-ups in key locations where it hasn’t previously had a presence. In the UK, it appeared in Harrods for the first time and FashionNetwork.com caught up with UK General Manager Craig Ash to find out how that has gone.
Craig Ash at the Harrods pop-up – Swarovski
FashionNetwork.com: Why did you choose Harrods for the big UK Ariana Grande launch?
Craig Ash: When we brought together Ariana Grande, a global pop icon, and Swarovski, one of the world’s most iconic luxury jewellery brands to create a capsule collection, we knew we needed to find a special place to launch it in the UK. Harrods, as one of the most iconic department stores in the world, made total sense as this environment really represents the joyful extravagance that runs through our brand. The team at Harrods also saw a strong synergy and we worked together to create a truly remarkable space for customers to discover this unique collection.
FN: Given your first entry into Harrods, are you planning more collaborations with other department stores?
CA: Swarovski’s Luxury Brand positioning matches perfectly with high-end department stores so we will continue to explore future collaborations within this sector. We already work with several department stores such as Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Frasers and John Lewis and we look forward to further expansion moving forwards with both existing and new partners.
FN: How important do you think luxury department stores and generally wider distribution are to a brand like yours at present?
CA: Department stores such as Harrods that allow us to create unique luxury experiences for our customers are very important to our brand. Our distribution strategy is to deliver Luxury@Scale and this means not only having our own stores in great locations but also collaborating with department stores and independent retailers to make the brand accessible. We don’t believe that luxury is about having a super small distribution footprint or charging excessively high prices. Luxury is ultimately providing true value to the customer and creating a feeling of joy, so luxury department stores provide a great environment to do this.
FN: Where else are you running pop-ups? I notice that you’ve opened one at Heathrow Airport — is this a key strategy for travel retail or just a one-off?
CA: Our teams worldwide have launched pop-ups in iconic Luxury location’s in Paris, Dubai, NYC, Mexico City, Toronto and Buenos Aires to celebrate the collection launch. Heathrow was selected as the only travel retail location worldwide, and we have partnered with Avolta to create an immersive shopping experience here for travellers.
Ariana Grande – Swarovski
FN: What has been the response to the Ariana Grande collab? I notice you’ve had a lot of publicity around it. Has this translated into sales? And are we likely to see further collabs with Grande (or any other celebs) in the near future?
CA: The reaction to Ariana Grande’s Capsule collection has been nothing short of sensational and the timing of this has coincided with Valentine’s Day and also now Mother’s Day, which has allowed us to offer our gift buyers truly unique product for their loved ones alongside our self-purchasing customers. We have seen the quickest rates of sale on this product that I can remember, which is no surprise given the combination of savoir-faire with contemporary coolness that the collection brings. Swarovski has always been intertwined with pop culture and we have worked with a wide breadth of incredible designers, actresses, models, singers and individuals who shape the zeitgeist, which we will continue to do moving forwards.
FN: Of course, all this talk of pop-ups doesn’t minimise the importance of your own standalone stores. How has the Regent Street store that opened in late 2024 been faring?
CA: The Regent Street store has been trading especially strongly since opening. We were delighted to secure this new location last year as Regent Street was an obvious gap in our London store portfolio. Now alongside our Swarovski boutiques in Oxford Street, Covent Garden, White City and Stratford we have great coverage in our key city, alongside new stores in Canary Wharf & Battersea which we also opened last year.
The European Commission on Wednesday proposed sweeping changes to EU green rules, scrapping sustainability reporting requirements for thousands of companies and delaying its due diligence policy by a year.
Reuters
Under the proposals, only companies with over 1,000 employees would be obliged to report on their environmental and human rights impact.
The rules currently target firms with over 250 employees, and the commission said the change would exempt 40,000 companies – or 80% of all firms the policy was originally designed to apply to.
The proposals will need to be negotiated and approved by the European Parliament and EU member states.
It may be widely expected but it’s still a shock when highly respected designers are ousted from their creation director posts and so it was on Wednesday as, post-AW25 runway show, we learned that Jil Sander and its creative chiefs Lucie and Luke Meier “have mutually decided that this collection would be the last of their collaboration”.
Their impending exit has been talked about for months and finally came just after they showed a collection that received — like many of their previous collections — widespread praise.
And unlike some creative director exits, the parties concerned were full of praise for each other. Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB Group, owner of the Jil Sander brand, said he “wishes to thank Lucie and Luke for their vision, passion for excellence, and dedication to the brand”.
At the same time, in a press release, OTB said “the designers seize this occasion to express their heartfelt gratitude to OTB and the Jil Sander teams who have consistently dedicated their energy, passion, and talent to this project, and are proud of the work they have accomplished alongside such wonderful people. A special thanks as well to Mr Rosso”.
The company didn’t share any information about what happens next, although there have been rumours for some time that Daniel Lee might be exiting a changing Burberry to helm the label. As for the Meiers, they’re likely to be in demand after their creatively successful tenure at Jil Sander.
Clergerie is struggling to get out of this new rut. After first filing for receivership in 2023, and subsequently being acquired by a US group, the footwear brand based in Romans-sur-Isère, France, has again been placed in receivership. The proceedings formally opened late last year at the trade court in Romans-sur-Isère, where Clergerie operates a production site, and FashionNetwork.com has learnt that the court-appointed receivers are looking for a buyer.
Clergerie’s leather boots are priced between €525 and €745 – Clergerie
Nearly two years ago, Clergerie was bought by US group Titan Footwear following commercial court proceedings in Paris, having filed for receivership in March 2023. However, Joe Ouaknine, businessman and owner of Titan Footwear, hasn’t been able to revive Clergerie. Was it for lack of investment, or because the market is too disrupted? Last November, the brand’s French factory, which used to produce nearly 500 pairs of shoes a week, was shut down, and its workers were put on short-term unemployment, as local paper Ici Drome Ardèche reported. According to some workers, production later resumed but only in “fits and starts,” and with “constant raw materials supply issues.”
52 jobs at two companies at risk
The public notice recently published by the court-appointed receivers to find potential new owners relates to two companies. The first is responsible for the manufacturing activity at the factory in Romans, a 3,800-square-metre facility that currently employs 32 workers. In the 14 months ending on August 31, 2024, the company generated a revenue of €4.5 million.
The second company is looking after the products’ commercialisation via the retail and wholesale channels, and online. It includes a factory outlet in Romans, a directly owned store in Paris, and several department store corners (at Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, and Le Bon Marché), and generated a revenue of €4.9 million over the same period. The second company has 20 employees.
Clergerie’s Parisian store is located at 5 rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th arrondissement – Google Street View
Interested parties have until March 18 to put forward their bids. Clergerie also operates a few stores outside France, in Madrid, London and the USA, but they don’t seem to be included in this potential sale.
The brand was founded in 1981 by Robert Clergerie, and is one of the last bastions of French footwear production. It benefits from a long-standing industrial heritage, since Romans-sur-Isère has been a shoe manufacturing hub since the end of the 19th century. A few other iconic footwear brands hail from the same area, like Stéphane Kélian – owned by the Royer group and about to be relaunched – and Charles Jourdan, also owned by Royer but currently dormant. Charles Jourdan’s old factory in Romans, disused since 2010, used to employ up to 3,000 people in its heyday, but it is about to be demolished to make room for a secondary school, as reported by Le Dauphiné Libéré.
Perhaps a leading luxury name, or a footwear manufacturer, could be interested in buying Clergerie to stop its factory suffering the same fate.