Tougher laws on UK retail crime are taking their first steps through parliament today (Tuesday 25 February).
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The government’s Crime and Policing Bill, which will mostly apply in England and Wales, contains over 50 measures including stricter penalties for shoplifting of items under £200 and making it a new offence to assault a shop worker.
It also contains new ‘Respect Orders’, reminiscent of the Anti-social Behaviour Orders introduced by the last Labour government before being abolished in 2014.
Current laws don’t go far enough for shoplifting theft under £200 and such crimes can only be tried in a magistrates court.
Home secretary Yvette Cooper said: “The new Crime and Policing Bill is about taking back our streets and town centres, restoring respect for law and order, and giving the police and local communities the support and tools they need to tackle local crime.”
The British Retail Consortium warned in January that retail crime is “spiralling out of control”, hitting its highest level on record. Theft alone is now costing retailers £2.2 billion a year while violent and abusive incidents were up more than 50% last year. The crime prevention cost for stores is around £1.8 billion annually.
Swarovski’s recent Ariana Grande collab launch was huge deal for the company and garnered headlines globally. It was also a major move operationally with the company opening some department store pop-ups in key locations where it hasn’t previously had a presence. In the UK, it appeared in Harrods for the first time and FashionNetwork.com caught up with UK General Manager Craig Ash to find out how that has gone.
Craig Ash at the Harrods pop-up – Swarovski
FashionNetwork.com: Why did you choose Harrods for the big UK Ariana Grande launch?
Craig Ash: When we brought together Ariana Grande, a global pop icon, and Swarovski, one of the world’s most iconic luxury jewellery brands to create a capsule collection, we knew we needed to find a special place to launch it in the UK. Harrods, as one of the most iconic department stores in the world, made total sense as this environment really represents the joyful extravagance that runs through our brand. The team at Harrods also saw a strong synergy and we worked together to create a truly remarkable space for customers to discover this unique collection.
FN: Given your first entry into Harrods, are you planning more collaborations with other department stores?
CA: Swarovski’s Luxury Brand positioning matches perfectly with high-end department stores so we will continue to explore future collaborations within this sector. We already work with several department stores such as Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Frasers and John Lewis and we look forward to further expansion moving forwards with both existing and new partners.
FN: How important do you think luxury department stores and generally wider distribution are to a brand like yours at present?
CA: Department stores such as Harrods that allow us to create unique luxury experiences for our customers are very important to our brand. Our distribution strategy is to deliver Luxury@Scale and this means not only having our own stores in great locations but also collaborating with department stores and independent retailers to make the brand accessible. We don’t believe that luxury is about having a super small distribution footprint or charging excessively high prices. Luxury is ultimately providing true value to the customer and creating a feeling of joy, so luxury department stores provide a great environment to do this.
FN: Where else are you running pop-ups? I notice that you’ve opened one at Heathrow Airport — is this a key strategy for travel retail or just a one-off?
CA: Our teams worldwide have launched pop-ups in iconic Luxury location’s in Paris, Dubai, NYC, Mexico City, Toronto and Buenos Aires to celebrate the collection launch. Heathrow was selected as the only travel retail location worldwide, and we have partnered with Avolta to create an immersive shopping experience here for travellers.
Ariana Grande – Swarovski
FN: What has been the response to the Ariana Grande collab? I notice you’ve had a lot of publicity around it. Has this translated into sales? And are we likely to see further collabs with Grande (or any other celebs) in the near future?
CA: The reaction to Ariana Grande’s Capsule collection has been nothing short of sensational and the timing of this has coincided with Valentine’s Day and also now Mother’s Day, which has allowed us to offer our gift buyers truly unique product for their loved ones alongside our self-purchasing customers. We have seen the quickest rates of sale on this product that I can remember, which is no surprise given the combination of savoir-faire with contemporary coolness that the collection brings. Swarovski has always been intertwined with pop culture and we have worked with a wide breadth of incredible designers, actresses, models, singers and individuals who shape the zeitgeist, which we will continue to do moving forwards.
FN: Of course, all this talk of pop-ups doesn’t minimise the importance of your own standalone stores. How has the Regent Street store that opened in late 2024 been faring?
CA: The Regent Street store has been trading especially strongly since opening. We were delighted to secure this new location last year as Regent Street was an obvious gap in our London store portfolio. Now alongside our Swarovski boutiques in Oxford Street, Covent Garden, White City and Stratford we have great coverage in our key city, alongside new stores in Canary Wharf & Battersea which we also opened last year.
If, as most people believe, the designers of Jil Sander, Luke and Lucie Meier, are about to be replaced, they certainly have left Germany’s most famous fashion label on a high note.
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
A bold blend of sharp tailoring, punchy effects, unusual material mixes, and urban chic was an admirable final collection in their tenure at Jil Sander, a house founded in Hamburg in 1973.
Staged in funeral black, with two narrow runways beneath black-curtained walls, in dim undertaker’s light, the mood and the collection were somber as one entered from a sunny Wednesday morning at Milan Fashion Week.
That said, the clothes often dazzled, from pink shard dresses to metallic silver plissé cocktails. The design duo’s big idea was plastic shard skirt dresses—cut like techy Pacific Island chic.
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
In a co-ed show, the guys appeared in Edwardian coats and blazers bristling with cock feathers and biker leather suits in electric blue, while a series of coats for men and women featured ingenious degradé coloring, beginning in black and fading into bronze, then white at their high funnel necks.
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
Considering that Jil Sander was once dubbed “the Queen of Less,” this felt like a very distant “More is More”—especially the shoes: hyper-studded and spiked winklepickers and brothel creepers. There was nothing minimal about them.
In truth, the house of Jil Sander has had an erratic history since the founder departed in 2004 after repeated clashes with then-owner Patrizio Bertelli of Prada. Ownership changed hands several times, including to a vulture fund, before being acquired by OTB and its chairman, Renzo Rosso, the Italian billionaire founder of Diesel, in 2021.
However, for several seasons now, Renzo Rosso has been openly expressing his desire to make Jil Sander into an Italian Hermès with an edge. This collection was far from that. Indeed, if one could fault Luke and Lucie Meier for anything, it was that the collection, with its sharp lines and exaggerated finishes, felt more targeted at critics than clients.
Three weeks ago, Rosso named Serge Brunschwig from Fendi as Jil Sander’s new CEO, underlining that change is on the way.
That said, the Meiers can leave Jil Sander with their heads held high, even if they took a long, rather mournful tour of the catwalk to some well-earned applause. Their seven-year tenure featured several excellent collections that were among the half-dozen best in fashion in certain seasons—no easy feat to achieve, rest assured.
For the future, the current favorite to replace them at Jil Sander is Daniel Lee of Burberry. Stay tuned as the career carousel that high fashion has become takes another turn.
Together Group has announced two acquisitions, Imerza and Visualisation One, for an undisclosed price. They’re “pioneers in digital twin technologies, immersive content production and digital animation”.
Together Group
The company is a “curated collective of high-quality creative consultancies, immersive technology, marketing and production studios, crafting the future of luxury and lifestyle experiences”. It includes Harvey Nichols, Dior, Liberty, Skims, Selfridges, Chanel and Louis Vuitton among its clients and said the “strategic acquisitions enhance [its] ability to deliver transformative customer experiences across all key luxury segments, including real estate and placemaking, as well as fashion, beauty, hospitality, art, design and culture, responding to the growing demand for innovation in the experience economy as well as for the coming together of luxury and entertainment”.
For instance, for fashion and beauty, Together said “next-generation digital flagship store environments, interactive product try-ons, and personalised, immersive virtual shows and campaigns can redefine consumer engagement”.
And CEO Christian Kurtzke added: “We create emotionally engaging and highly-personalised immersive digital luxury experiences that reach well beyond what traditional websites, movies or live events can offer. The integration of Imerza and Visualisation One allows us to offer unparalleled capabilities in digital twin and realtime visualisation technologies, creating life-like digital environments driven by real-time data – empowering destinations and brands to reimagine the way they connect with their audiences in both physical and virtual worlds. In short, we blend creativity, culture and cutting edge immersive technologies to take ideation, storytelling and entertainment to the next level.”
So what do the two businesses it has bought do? Imerza is a US leader in architectural game-engine technology and visualisation and is Epic Games’ official US partner studio for Digital Twins.
And Visualisation One (V1), led by founder Vince Flynn, is known for its cinematic architectural visualisations and immersive VR experiences for “top-tier global clients”.
The integration of both into Together Group’s Noë & Associates Studios “will create an advanced hub for immersive digital innovation and experiences, with offices in London, New York, and Dubai”, in addition to Imerza’s and V1’s respective HQs in Florida, US, and Chester, UK.
Noë & Associates Studios is a “curated collective of contemporary artists, next-gen technologists, and artisans tasked with redefining how people interact with environments, realms, and ,” we’re told.
The new additions “significantly expand Together Group’s ability to serve brands in sectors undergoing profound transformation”.
The company added that buying the two businesses means it has made its 12th and 13th acquisition since the group acquired its first agency, Purple communications in 2021.