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Ray-Ban names A$AP Rocky as first creative director

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Nicola Mira

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February 24, 2025

Ray-Ban has reached a new milestone in forging its brand identity. The eyewear brand, a flagship asset of eyewear giant Essilux, has named US celebrity rapper A$AP Rocky as its first creative director, in charge of the Ray-Ban Studios.

A$AP Rocky has teamed up with Ray-Ban – Ray Ban

The Ray-Ban Studios were set up in 2016 with the goal of establishing relationships between the brand and artists and musicians, in order to associate Ray-Ban with a distinctive cultural environment. Until now, the studios hadn’t been involved in product design.

Last summer, Ray-Ban named another US singer, Lenny Kravitz, as its brand ambassador, and is now officially collaborating with A$AP Rocky, 36, real name Rakim Mayers. The rapper, also Rihanna‘s life partner, has a number of links with the fashion world. A former member of the A$AP Mob band, A$AP Rocky owns the AWGE (acronym of A$AP Worldwide Global Entertainment) design studio, and last year launched a fashion label, American Sabotage, staging a presentation in Paris during the fashion week which featured a sunglasses collaboration with Ray-Ban. He is also in charge of design for Puma‘s motor sport lines, a collaboration announced in late 2023.

“For nearly 80 years, the brand has been on the faces of the most iconic musicians, artists, actors and heroes. Today, we are welcoming A$AP Rocky into our family. He’s a visionary artist and creator. His ability to push the boundaries of the diverse worlds he explores aligns with the Ray-Ban DNA. We are reinforcing the brand’s values of innovation, pioneering spirit, and courage,” said Leonardo Maria Del Vecchio, son of the founder of eyewear giant Luxottica and president of Ray-Ban, about the rapper’s appointment.

Leonardo Maria Del Vecchio (left), heir to the group that owns Ray-Ban, with A$AP Rocky – Instagram

Ray-Ban has very likely refrained from announcing the A$AP Rocky collaboration for a few weeks. The announcement in fact came only three days after A$AP Rocky was found not guilty by a California court of a charge of firing a semi-automatic weapon at one of his former friends in 2021.

He’s now officially collaborating with Ray-Ban in various fields, “overseeing the brand’s creative projects and shaping its image and future design,” according to the press release. Ray-Ban also said that “he will take charge of campaigns and rethink the interiors of Ray-Ban stores, incorporating within them music, fashion and art.” A big job, since Ray-Ban directly operates 282 stores worldwide. The Essilux group, whose main business is opticians’ products, reported revenue of over €26 billion in 2024, and said that 23% of it was generated by apparel (Essilux owns the Supreme brand, which will soon open its 18th store worldwide in Miami) and sunglasses. Essilux did not provide revenue details for Ray-Ban, simply stating that last year the brand sold approximately 2 million pairs of smart glasses developed with Meta.

For the time being, A$AP Rocky will not be involved with the smart glasses segment, but is working on the Blacked Out collection due to be launched in April, a reinterpretation of Ray-Ban’s Mega Icons range featuring a new lens type. Fans of A$AP Rocky, who will soon release his fourth solo album, Don’t Be Dumb, will be looking out for references in his tracks to the famous sunglasses created in the 1930s to equip US aircraft pilots.
 

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Marla Aaron opens first UK physical space in Liberty department store

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February 24, 2025

New York-based fine jeweller Marla Aaron has opening her first physical UK retail destination with a permanent shop-in-shop at high-end London department store Liberty.

The dedicated space within Liberty’s ground floor jewellery hall “brings the spirit of the NYC maximalist Diamond District showroom”, featuring an expanded selection of jewellery, exclusive pieces and objects, “all designed to welcome visitors to play”. 

The brand’s arrival will include a charity angle, supported by Liberty. Aaron’s ‘Lock Your Mom’ project, which has run for over a decade in the States, offering single mums the chance to be nominated to receive a special heart lock over Mother’s Day “to recognise them for their amazing work”.

This will be the first time Aaron has run the initiative outside of the US, and Liberty will hold an in-store event hosted by the designer on Mother’s Day (30 March) giving out 100 locks on the day. 
 
Marla Aaron, which “takes a functional maximalism approach to fine jewellery”, launched in 2012 with the recasting of the carabiner Lock into precious metals “quickly expanded into a universe of mechanism-inspired ‘hard-working’ fine jewellery” made by hand in small artisanal workshops in New York City.

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River Island names Slavid trading MD

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February 24, 2025

River Island has appointed a returning Suzy Slavid as trading managing director, following Ben Lewis’s recent appointment of CEO for the privately-held UK fashion retailer.

Slavid was most recently CEO of Wyse London for two years, joining the premium womenswear brand in January 2023 but originally spent over 13 years at River Island (1999-2012) latterly as merchandise manager for kidswear and womenswear. She then joined women’s, men’s and kidswear group Boden in 2012 as director of merchandising and marketing before becoming its chief trading officer in 2019.

Her return, which was reported by Drapers, follows this month’s announcement that Ben Lewis, related to founder and business owner Bernard Lewis, will also return to the position of CEO. He was previously chief executive for almost a decade until 2019.

At the same time, executive chair Richard Bradbury announced he was stepping down from his role due to personal circumstances, the business said in a statement.

Meanwhile, Clive Lewis, son of Bernard Lewis, will also take on his previous role as non-executive chair, with immediate effect.

After swinging to a loss in 2023, River Island reportedly last month drafted in consultants from AlixPartners to focus on profit improvement with the latest managerial rejig expected to focus on the brand’s sustained revival.

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Elsewhere in London: Johanna Parv and Ashish

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February 25, 2025

All told, this was the weakest London Fashion Week in several years, amid depressed markets, global disruptions, Brexit bruises, a fashion funeral and a general sense of exhaustion. Two collections on Monday, however, stood out – Johanna Parv and Ashish
 

Johanna Parv: London’s most coherent collection

One London-based designer always worth checking out is Johanna Parv, an Estonian who makes activewear actually look very cool. She staged no show, but her collection still felt like the most relevant and clued-in in London.

Johanna Parv Autumn/Winter 2025 collection – Courtesy

Parv’s key ideas often come from cycling, which helps gives a multi-functional twist to everything she does. For next winter, she showed great cambered pants in a crinkly nylon, excellent co-ed fashion that was hyper-functional and stylish.
 
While her precise new techy fencing-meets-Mandarin cotton shirts with peak collars, side pocket and reflective sign at back were excellent.

She also cut great cantilevered Velocity Trousers in sturdy Italian wool gabardine with nylon lining that hung perfectly. And her Tech Vent Blazers looked like they could work in a club, boardroom, cocktail or gym – defining what makes Johanna Parv such a great designer.

Johanna Parv Autumn/Winter 2025 – Courtesy

We will say it again – some bright clued-in CEO of a major active sport giant should make Johanna Parv their creative director. She has that much talent.
 

Ashish: Fashion, not fascism

Glitz and blitz from Delhi-born designer Ashish with a bold homage to partying, in a collection unveiled somewhat confusingly at 9.15 AM Monday morning.
 

Ashish – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Staged inside the showroom basement of 180 The Strand with a great live DJ name Bestley waxing the stacks, this was really a Friday night show held at breakfast time. Blown-up balloons greeted guests reading “Everyone Welcome” or “Walk of Shame”, as the quirky cast danced around the catwalk.
 
Opening with spiky blood-orange columns, degradé silver sequin cocktails, and a gal in fishnet tights and white T-shirt that read – “Not in the Mood”. Well, Ashish and his gals clearly are, as they smoldered in transparent dresses finished with power pop stars, or in glitzy Chanel-style suits, the jackets worn open to reveal mini black bras. 
 
His guys were fairly raunchy too: wearing bovver boots, pink sequin knickers and crew neck sweaters reading “Pig”; or knickers and black sequin tops that shouted: “Wow, What a Shit Show”.

Ashish – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

One mock monk in skirt, Alpine sweater and cord belt holding a knit penis, held a cardboard reading, “The End is Near”.
 
The collection marked the latest outcry in fashion against Trump’s executive orders and Meloni laws targeting LGBT rights, ending with another sequined top that read, “Fashion Not Fascism”.
 

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