In the most recent New York Fashion Week, several platforms assembled multiple designers to introduce their collections.
Despite the substantial collections shown, the latest installment of NYFW done-and-dusted was labeled as lacking the powerhouse punch of ample major brands. The reduction in smaller labels participating in the industry-crucial week was also quite evident.
At an NYFW kickoff event hosted by the CFDA, FashionNetwork.com spoke to several emerging designers choosing to forgo a traditional runway show to debut their new collections. This stance is supported by the media, which recognizes that the cost of throwing such events strains a young business. It can also be seen as a distraction from building the business aspect of a newer label. Since the departure of IMG’s official role during NYFW, which allowed for reasonably priced show locations and production by hosting a central hub, less new talent has shown during NYFW. While often generic, these spaces made it feasible for fresh labels to have fashion shows. Thus far, nothing official has replaced this concept. Still, several initiatives—New York Men’s Day, the House of Arches group show, and WeWearAustralian- prevailed, proving safety in numbers for brands starting off.
A. Potts as part of New York Men’s Day at NYFW – Courtesy
Now in its 23rd season, New York Men’s Day, initiated by Erin Hawker of Agentry PR firm, has given emerging menswear labels a voice during NYFW in a format that allows brands to express their vision in an affordable approach to showing a collection while giving guests flexibility in viewing.
With the help of sponsors such as Sperry, Hawker, and her team organized six brands, positioned as either menswear or genderless, divvied up between two sessions that allow guests to arrive at their convenience to experience the installation-type presentations or repeating mini fashion shows. This most recent lineup included four new brand debuts: Hold NYC, menswear; Joseph McRae, genderless; Max Esmail menswear; Peak Lapel, unisex; and the return of A. Potts, genderless; and Sivan, menswear. Each expressed their wares uniquely in three separate rooms within the Location05 studio space during two 90-minute sessions, each featuring three designers at a time.
Aaron Potts staged a continuous fashion show focused on his signature styles based on core easy shapes: caftans and dashiki-inspired styles, ponchos, and capes, telling fashion network that while 70 percent of his line is unisex, “Women’s has become an important part of the business, the market demanded and we answered,” he told FashionNetwork.com.
Newcomer and former Ralph Lauren men’s designer Holden Akerley debuted his Hold NYC collection with a bevy of snow-sport tropes.
“We love optimistic nostalgia, warmth, happiness, and elevated take on sporty nostalgia. We have mountain ski boys and the chalet boys. It’s Americana with a cooler, queer edge,” he told FashionNetwork.com.
Designer Jack Sivan of Sivan imagined his continental traveling customer at the ‘Hotel Sivan,” which featured three charming lifestyle vignettes ranging from day to evening looks. For each to produce their show, it would have been cost-prohibitive.
Sperry as part of New York Men’s Day at NYFW – Courtesy
“New York Men’s Day has supported emerging designer talent since its inception. Our mission is to support designers who cannot afford to show at the NYFW because showing during fashion week is very cost-prohibitive. We cover 85% of the cost, i.e., the space (and basic supplies), FOH PR efforts, hair and makeup sponsorship, security, etc. Then there are many extras such as a water sponsor, liquor sponsor, etc. It’s been a labor of love for Agentry PR, and we view this as giving back to our communities.”
According to Jonathan Frankel, president of Sperry, the synergy benefits both parties: “Sperry has proudly sponsored New York Men’s Day for many seasons, supporting a platform that celebrates both innovation and heritage in menswear. This event provides a unique opportunity for us to connect with the next generation of fashion designers, showcasing elevated interpretations of our iconic styles in NYMD’s seasonal presentations. As we celebrate 90 years of adventure and craftsmanship in 2025, we remain committed to inspiring new creative voices while staying true to the legacy that defines Sperry.”
McDonald’s Change of Fashion cumulated its year-long mentorship program that supported five up-and-coming independent designers of colors. Each was paired with established designers to help them in their brand-building journey. Closing out NYFW, the group show, which featured designs from Larissa Muehleder of Muehleder; Shareef Mosby of Victim15; Durrell Dupard of Freddie Estelle; Heart Roberts of Hearthrob; and Nia Thomas, was the first time any had held a fashion show.
Nia Thomas as part of the House of Arches group show at New York Fashion Week – House of Arches
For the group, it was a game-changer, as designer Nia Thomas said: “Securing a runway show slot during New York Fashion Week is a strategic imperative for my independent brand, as it allows me to transcend the limitations of traditional marketing channels and amplify my presence among a global audience. By leveraging this high-profile platform, I can effectively bypass the prohibitively expensive costs associated with large-scale marketing events, where the return on investment is often uncertain.”
For the burger giant’s participation, it was about supporting and giving visibility to creatives that are vastly underrepresented in the market.
“For decades, McDonald’s has leveraged its size and scale to invest in and support the diverse communities we serve,” said Tariq Hassan, chief marketing and customer experience Officer at McDonald’s. “The Change of Fashion program builds on that legacy, pushing new boundaries to inspire real change, not only for our five designers but for the fashion industry at large.”
With an entirely different approach, another group that may be daunted by the prospect of showing their collections in New York, Australian-based brands, banded together to have their own presence in NYFW. Founded by Kelly Atkinson and Richard Poulson, the inaugural WeWearAustralian collective supported by Australia Post hosted an immersive NYC pop-up.
The store’s concept brought a bit of the down-under essence to New York, turning the urban space into a “sensory journey’ by blanketing the floor in red earth, a nod to the untamed vastness of the Australian landscape, with tea tree branches weaving throughout and the giving space the space a crisp botanical scent.
The WeWearAustralian group, with Kelly Atkinson pictured fourth from the left, at New York Fashion Week – Madi Atkins
Brands Acler, Bond-Eye, Christian Kimber, Jac + Jack, Mariam Seddiq, Morrison, Ngali, R E L A X Remade, R.M. Williams, Vander Kooij, Viktoria & Woods, and Wah-Wah Australia, most showing in New York for the first time, kicked off the dual-activation event by inviting press and buyers to an in-person preview that was aligned with a digital wholesales showcase for 40 Australian brands via the JOOR Passport Series as part of New York Fashion Week. The following day, the store was open to the public, who had a chance to shop the group’s Spring/Summer 2025 offerings.
“For many participating brands, the cost of showcasing at this scale would have been prohibitive. Fortunately, our partnership with Australia Post made it possible. They provided vital support in bringing these brands to international markets with the opportunity to expand and grow their businesses. This collaboration was a holistic approach, ensuring these brands were both operationally and consumer-ready for their introduction to the USA,” said Atkinson.
The results paid off, according to Atkinson, with one brand tripling their wholesale sales in the U.S. market. Additionally, Atkinson said the digital presence engaged over 1.4 million people, and the foot traffic and direct-to-consumer sales far exceeded the projections.
“We are exploring how to establish #WeWearAustralian in New York City for the long term—building a lasting presence that continues to champion and elevate Australian brands on the international stage,” Atkinson added.
Despite a half-decade of Brexit, ignited in many ways by a perverse fear of immigration, London Fashion Week witnessed a striking day of action by designers, few of whom were born in Britain.
Staged on the top floor of Space House, a rotund building in Covent Garden, the cast marched around in a circle before fantastic views of London’s latest generation of skyscrapers. Their forms evoked in the bravura silhouettes dreamed up by Serbian-born Roksanda Ilinčić.
From the Shard to the Cheesegrater to the Shaver, their eclectic shapes and profiles almost magically appeared in the three-sizes-too-big blazers or wool sheathes sprouting fabric like balconies from the hip.
But above all, it was Roksanda’s ability to make hyper-exaggerated proportions work that marked this out as a very special collection. Like an absurdly elegant oversized tuxedo coat worn with grand sequined skirt or two beautiful lavender pink layered chiffon and silk dresses.
Her prints were also remarkable: scanned images of left over plastic mixed with bold painted strokes, riffing on the show’s inspiration, British artist Phyllida Barlow, known for her sculptural drawings and crudely painted industrial constructions.
A tape of Barlow’s from her final interview before her passing ended the show in a poignant finale. Adding to the perfect choice of music: Just (After Song of Songs) by Melissa Hughes, Jamie Jordan and others, like modernist Gregorian chant, or post-modern cathedral music.
“And I suppose for me, sculpture, whatever sculpture is, it isn’t just the object I think, it’s a sentient physicality of something that replaces us with our own physicality,” says Barlow, rather tellingly sounding like a clever comment on this collection.
Leading to a great finale, Roksanda triumphing with a half-dozen diaphanous gowns, done with giant petals composed of neoprene cut with a flourish Frank Gehry would have envied.
Chet Lo: The East fights back
A kicky and edgy take on fashion from Chet Lo, whose goal of reinterpreting Asia tropes into subversive chic led to a kick-ass show.
Body-con boldness throughout, led by some great clingy knitwear as Lo riffed on Chinoiserie in padded sweaters, slit-up-the-knee skirts, some great sexy graphic knitwear, figure-hugging jackets and mini skirts.
Though the heart of the matter was Lo’s fetish merino wool spike looks, seen in long evening sheathes, skinny sweaters or sleeves of blazers. In a co-ed show, the guys wore trim knits, their shoulders topped with spikes, fluid pants and super new sneakers wrapped in spikes, courtesy of the latest linkup in LFW of Converse.
You know a designer is doing something right when the models dig the clothes. As the girls certainly did today at Chet Lo, an Asian American from New York. One could imagine them happily exiting the show space at 180 The Strand in these happening outfits and off to enjoy a party in ever-swinging London.
Simone Rocha injected a large dose of tough chic into her aesthetic, adding another weapon to her formidable design aesthetic. Though the strongest memory of this collection will be the Noah’s Ark of animals that entangled the cast. From satin bags cut in the shape of hares and plastic tortoises, to faux-fur Rhesus monkey backpacks and bunny ear nylon bags, animals embraced most looks.
Staged inside Goldsmith’s Hall in the city of London, Rocha’s latest historic location for one of her shows, it was an excellent collection, where Dublin-born Simone broke new ground with racy negligee looks and semi-sheer cocktails, albeit worn with bobby socks.
Always happy to blend in some punk rock grit, Rocha also showed superb biker jackets cut like tunics and finished with puff sleeves.
The cast also totally loving the clothes as they paraded around Goldsmith’s Hall, where the Duke of Wellington and Robert Peel dined in 1835 at its opening dinner.
Unlikely pairings and unexpected proportions and combinations were at the heart of the latest collection from Toga by founder Yasuko Furuta, presented inside a back room of the Royal Academy.
The result was a hit-and-miss collection, though one of considerable cool by this Japanese designer.
What worked were the wrap around blazers or ribbed military sweaters accessorized with giant men’s cotton collars; the reverse mannish blazers with huge cut-out Renaissance collars; or some fab’ multi-reverse pleat pants.
What didn’t work were: were the faux fur cut like furrows, or short capes worn over inflated bubble skirts in check – a dressmaker’s caper if ever there was one.
That said, her footwear was the coolest in London, from crystal sequined studded, silver heeled boots for boys, to silver buckle ballet slippers from which sprouted fangs of horsehair.
Erratic, but well worth the visit.
Paolo Carzana: A star is born
Last but very not least, a charming fashion moment by London’s most decisive new talent, Paolo Carzana.
Paolo Carzan autumn/winter 2025 collection at London Fashion Week
Presented in a tiny wee pub called The Holy Tavern with just 40 patrons inside; a dozen on bar stools in light rain on the pavement; and a score more fans inside a narrow Victorian passage named St John’s Path. From which emerged a delightful gang of beguilingly disheveled dandies and molls, all attired in bizarrely dyed fabrics, crumpled and creased and sewn into Restoration pirate chic.
Beautifully bedraggled, the cast wore a collection that was tied, twisted, coiled and ruched – like extras from “The Raft of the Medusa”. Finished with rough seams and unspooling threads, the clothes looked like they had a life of their own. The models heads finished with mashed up sans culottes caps, or lopsided mini turbans. A co-ed show that ended with a poetically oft-kilter Charlotte Corday following her gang into the pub.
“I wanted to show where we are today – in purgatory. We live in dark times… Because humanity is destroying our planet. And also the way that LGBT rights are being taken away from us, so we cannot be ourselves,” explained a palpitating Carzana.
Who took his bow almost overwhelmed with emotion. A sustained ovation of cheering heralding Carzana, led by Sir Paul Smith, his mentor in a cool new fashion incubator put together in the East End of London.
Bringing its avant-garde aesthetic to the UK, CamperLab—the boundary-pushing arm of Mallorcan footwear label Camper—has opened a temporary retail space in London. Running until March 20, the pop-up is the result of a partnership with Htown, a local retailer known for curating contemporary fashion.
Inside CamperLab’s new London pop-up store – CamperLab
. Located at 147 Commercial Street, the ephemeral boutique is designed to showcase CamperLab’s signature experimental aesthetic. Featuring floor-to-ceiling orange vinyl, the space creates a bold, immersive environment that embodies the brand’s avant-garde spirit.
The London pop-up spotlights CamperLab’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, defined by bold silhouettes and a commitment to sustainability. The ready-to-wear capsule features unisex suede jackets and trousers, cotton shirts, and denim pieces, complemented by a curated selection of accessories, including boots, sandals, and two exclusive sunglass styles.
Founded in 1975 by the Fluxà family, Camper operates a global retail network of approximately 350 standalone stores and 2,500 multi-brand points of sale across 50 countries. In 2023, the Balearic footwear company posted a record turnover of €225 million, reflecting a 2% increase compared to the previous fiscal year.
Jacquemus will open its first boutique in Los Angeles in a few weeks, around mid-March. The fifth of its kind after Paris, New York, London and Dubai which is managed in partnership with the Chalhoub Group. Another seasonal boutique has also opened in the Alps, in Courchevel.
The new Jacquemus store will open at 8800 Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood – Alexis Chenu
Founder and designer Simon Porte Jacquemus chose the West Hollywood neighborhood for this new boutique, located at the crossroads of Melrose Avenue and Robertson Boulevard, close to the famous multi-brand Maxfield, and the Acne Studio and James Perse stores.
Long occupied by the John Varvatos brand, and taken over a year ago by the Louis Vuitton pop-up, which created a flamboyant set-up around the famous Pont Neuf bridge, the store occupies a surface area of 11500 square feet.
Launched as part of an international expansion plan for 2025 and 2026, the opening of this new boutique marks the acceleration of the brand’s development in the United States, a key market alongside Asia and Europe.
In addition to men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections, leather goods and accessories, the Jacquemus brand will also present its beauty and fragrance line here in the future. In early February, the brand opened up its capital to L’Oréal. According to a source close to the matter, L’Oréal’s stake in Jacquemus is estimated at around 10%, or around 100 million euros.
For the time being, the Jacquemus brand remains distributed in other flagship stores in Los Angeles, including the multi-brand H.Lorenzo and Mohawk General Store in Silver Lake.