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Beales to close final store as it says Budget made it unviable

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February 12, 2025

The Beales retailer banner is set to disappear for good. The department store retailer is closing in Poole, Dorset, citing increased government-introduced costs to the tune of £200,000.

Staff have already been informed of the Dolphin Centre store’s closure at the end of May, with Beales’ CEO Tony Brown saying: “It is with deep regret that today we have had to inform our team that the store will be closing.

“[Due] to the recent National Insurance increases, the National Minimum Wage increase and the reduction of business rates relief to 40%, approximately £200,000 has been added to our costs, which makes the business unviable.

“This, coupled with the risks and uncertainty of further tax increases in the coming years, have left us no other option. We have been working with the Dolphin Centre, who have been supportive, along with our investors to ensure an orderly exit.

“Our people have been the backbone of the business, and we were confident in the future until the new budget was announced.”

John Grinnell, Centre Manager of The Dolphin added: “We’re very sorry to see Beales go after so many years at The Dolphin. No future plans have been confirmed for the space that Beales will be leaving vacant.”

Beales was one of Britain’s oldest department stores after trading for more than 140 years, first opening in Bournemouth in 1881. It went into administration in January 2020 and, following the pandemic, it closed 22 of its remaining 23 branches in March that year.

Meanwhile, the former Beales department store site in Peterborough city centre has been sold for £4 million. The historic building in Westgate, which went on the market in January 2024, has been sold to a private investor. The identity of the new owner has not been revealed.

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Lila Moss is new DKNY global face, fronts spring campaign

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February 13, 2025

DKNY has unveiled British model Lila Moss as the new global face of the brand, starting with its SS25 campaign that’s a continuation of its New York Stories theme.

DKNY

The label this time shifts the focus from literature to cinema, “drawing inspiration from iconic movies that showcase New York City as a vibrant backdrop”.

The campaign features both the city and Moss as its main characters, “with the cinematic atmosphere allowing Lila to seamlessly embody different roles”.

Moss recently moved to NYC and the company said she “already shows the self-assurance of a local whose personal style becomes a calling card. In DKNY, she finds her own self in the city”.

Her appearance in the campaign comes at a time when her mother Kate Moss stars in the Donna Karan New York SS25 campaign – “a mother-daughter connection between these two brands that echoes DKNY’s story of origin, when Donna Karan drew inspiration from her daughter for the line’s cool, youthful attitude”.

Jeff Goldfarb, executive VP at G-III Apparel Group, said the campaign “further strengthens our commitment to expanding DKNY’s global presence”.

The images were shot by Mikael Jansson as Moss “gives off main character energy in looks that are youthful yet elevated, and feature the ‘DKNY est. 1989 collection, which revisits iconic pieces from the DKNY archive and reinterprets them in a contemporary way”.

Jacki Bouza, SVP of Global Marketing and Communications at G-III, said that the campaign “represents a pivotal moment, highlighting the brand’s unwavering commitment to creativity, authenticity, and accessibility”.

It debuts on Thursday through a diverse media mix, including social, digital, premium outdoor, select print and influencer partnerships.

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John Lewis adds raft of new brands to boost fashion profile, SS Daley is on board

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February 13, 2025

As SS25 gets under way, John Lewis is upping its fashion credentials with the addition of 49 new women’s and menswear labels, including SS Daley, the award-winning brand that recently saw Harry Styles joining as an investor.

SS Daley for John Lewis

It means the department store chain will now be selling more than 350 labels alongside its own-brand fashion offer.

Selected stores and the webstore will carry over 40 women’s and men’s pieces from SS Daley, including knits and dresses with Daley’s signature design elements.

The newcomers also include Dragon Diffusion, Second Female, NN07, Norse Projects, Fast Retailing’s Theory, Summery Copenhagen and Fabienne Chapot.

It’s believed that the SS Daley deal came about through John Lewis’s long-term relationship with the British Fashion Council, and follows its inclusion of AWAKE Mode last year.

In menswear, the retailer is also expanding its selection of the existing labels it sells, including more exclusives from Barbour, Gant, Ralph Lauren and The Kooples.

Fashion director Rachel Morgans said the company still offers the quality and value expected with its fashion but it’s also introducing “sharper designs from exciting new designers, which will make our customers sit up and take notice”.

She added that menswear in particular is responding to customers getting “bolder with their choices” and that the chain wants to sell labels that make people stop and ask ‘where did you get that?’

The retailer continues to hunt down “cool, trending brands” and has seen a very good response to labels like AWAKE Mode, Hayley Menzies and The Kooples.

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Unilever sees mixed results for prestige beauty, closes in on Wild acquisition

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February 13, 2025

Unilever has filed its Q4 and full-year results and said that its underlying sales growth (USG) was 4.2%. But turnover on a reported basis was up only 1.9% at €60.8 billion.

Hourglass

Underlying operating profit jumped 12.6% to €11.2 billion, while reported operating profit was actually down 3.7% at €9.4 billion. For the fourth quarter USG increased 4% while turnover dipped 0.1% to €14.2 billion.

The news comes as it has also emerged that the company is close to announcing the purchase of plastics-free premium cosmetics brand Wild.

The six-year-old brand could be acquired from its founders and early-stage investors in a £230 million deal, which would be one of the firm’s most significant acquisitions for a while.

Wild sells refillable personal care products on a DTC basis with its most recent account (for 2023) showing sales up 77% at almost £47 million. 

Back with Unilever’s results, the underlying and reported figures differ as the company continues to reshape its business, most particularly it’s demerging its giant Ice Cream operations with a separate stock exchange listing for them.

Looking specifically at the two divisions relevant to us — Beauty & Wellbeing and Personal Care — the former saw USG up 6.5% with reported turnover up 5.5% at €13.2 billion. The latter increased USG by 5.2%, but fell 1.5% on a reported basis to €13.6 billion. The two divisions account for 22% of group turnover each. 

Beauty & Wellbeing delivered a strong full-year performance, with the underlying sales rise divided into a volume increase of 5.1% and price rises accounting for 1.3%. Volume growth was broad-based with strong performances from its Power Brands including Sunsilk, Dove, Vaseline, Ponds, Liquid I.V. and Nutrafol. 

In Q4, Beauty & Wellbeing grew 5.2% with a 3.9% volume uplift.

The full-year performance reflects the ongoing premiumisation of its core Hair Care and Skin Care portfolio and the continued strength of its Prestige Beauty and Wellbeing portfolio, which combined, accounted for around 30% of Beauty & Wellbeing’s turnover.

That said, Prestige Beauty grew in ‘only’ mid-single-digits reflecting a slowdown in the US beauty market. Hourglass and Tatcha grew in double-digits while other brands including Paula’s Choice delivered low growth. 

During the year, it completed the acquisition of K18, a premium biotech hair care brand, which grew in double-digits and will be included in underlying sales growth from February 2025.

Underlying operating margin improved 70bps with strong gross margin improvement partially reinvested in increased brand and marketing investment.

In Personal Care, Dove, which makes up 40% of the division’s turnover, grew in high-single-digits with the successful launches of a new range of whole-body deodorants and a serum shower collection, using active face care ingredients in body wash formats. 

Skin Cleansing grew in low-single-digits with volume and price rises. Good growth in Dove was partially offset by declines in Lifebuoy and Lux, driven by challenges in Indonesia, China, and India.

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