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Swiss consumer association files greenwashing complaint against On

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AFP

Translated by

Nicola Mira

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February 11, 2025

A consumer association in Switzerland has filed a complaint against running shoes brand On, based on new rules introduced in the country against greenwashing practices.

A model by On – ON

In a press release published on Monday, the Romandy Consumers Association (FRC) questioned On’s promotion of the ‘Cyclon’ programme, which gives customers the opportunity to take out a subscription for the use of a pair of shoes, rather than buying them. Subscribers are able to use the shoes until they are worn out and then exchange them for a new pair, on the understanding that the used shoes will be recycled.

The FRC press release questioned the references to circularity that are “ubiquitous” in On’s communication, which promises “sustainable gear, renewable every six months.”

A broadcast by Swiss channel RTS in June 2024 stated that “no shoes had yet been recycled.” Following the RTS broadcast, FRC contacted On but their interaction “only resulted in minor changes.”

FRC therefore thinks that On’s messages to consumers “are misleading and incomplete,” a position that On’s management is “disputing,” according to FRC’s press release.

FRC wanted to “test” a new rule in a Swiss law that came into force on January 1 2025. The federal law against unfair competition includes a new paragraph aimed at countering greenwashing practices, relating to claims about the climate impact of goods or services that cannot be proven on an objective and verifiable basis.

The complaint is “under investigation, having been filed with a prosecutor in Zurich,” said FRC, which is trying to verify the new rule’s effectiveness.

Contacted by AFP, sportswear and running shoes brand On stated that FRC has “no legitimate reason” to start “a court case now.” In a press release, On said that a first recycling round started in August 2024, and underlined it has been talking “in good faith” and “in a transparent manner” with FRC.

“We implemented a systematic and sustainable recycling process once we collected a sufficient quantity of shoes returned by customers,” On said in the press release, since recycling the shoes “pair by pair would have been inefficient and counterproductive.”

Zurich-based On was founded in 2010, and contacted tennis legend Roger Federer after spotting him wearing one of their models, proposing he invest in the company. On was listed on the stock market in 2021, and has been growing at a fast pace. In the first nine months of 2024, its revenue soared by 27.3% year-on-year to CHF1.7 billion (€1.8 billion).

Copyright © 2025 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.



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Fashion

UK January online spend rose 3% following stronger December and Black Friday

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February 11, 2025

UK online spending rose 2.9% year on year to hit £8.1 billion in January, according to new data from Adobe Analytics. It followed annual growth of 19.9% in December, although this was impacted by Cyber Monday falling in December 2024 against November 2023.

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Overall, spend increased 5.9% during the whole festive period and with the almost-3% January rise, Adobe said it indicated “continued consumer confidence and online spending power following 2024’s record holiday spending period”.  

So what were people buying last month? Health & wellbeing were key, we’re told.

“Shoppers looking to start the year well, focused their spending [here]”, Adobe explained. “Consumers browsed online to upgrade their home gym, with online purchases of exercise equipment rising by 60% when compared with the previous month. Health and nutrition were top of mind, as online spending on natural supplements including multivitamin powders and pills increased by 26% and fruits and vegetables by 24%”. 

Consumers also enjoyed discount deals across categories including apparel (-5.2%), sporting goods (-1.9%), furniture (-2.9%), and appliances (-1.2%), “as retailers kept prices competitive to stimulate demand after record spending between November [and] December”.  

But while they may have been spending freely, shoppers were also still reliant on buy now, pay later (BNPL) services to boost their spending capabilities. In January, £1.26 billion was spent via BNPL, accounting for 15% of total January spend, and up 3.3% compared to January 2024.

Vivek Pandya, lead analyst, Adobe Digital Insights at Adobe commented: “After indulging in deep online discounts during the holiday season, shoppers kicked off 2025 by putting their money where their health is and spending on items to boost their wellness and fitness. Consumers also took advantage of continued discounting in January with online retailers dropping the prices of apparel, sporting goods, furniture and appliances in an effort to avoid a post-Christmas spending hangover.” 

The Adobe Digital Insights team used Adobe Analytics to analyse hundreds-of-millions of visits to retail sites from UK consumers in January 2025, tracking 100 million stock-keeping units (SKUs) across 18 product categories.

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A twisted Tory Burch in the MOMA

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February 11, 2025

The reigning queen of American sportswear Tory Burch was back in action Monday evening with a quirky take on her oeuvre inside a true temple of modernism.
 

Tory Burch – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

La Tory chose the Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) on 53rd street, for the first show ever inside the actual building, even if colleagues have staged runway displays in the museum’s garden.
 
Career-gal cool from Burch, who has built an empire on providing clothes that make women feel like they have a lead part in a new Manhattan-based drama series on Netflix.

Like Burch herself, the Tory gal is an overachiever, who manages to combine a certain je ne sais quoi chic with appealingly functional style. Burch’s initial choice of garments was typical this season – working trackpants, casual sweaters or wool cardigans – but the fresh surfaces and detailing she gave them all was very impressive.

Tory Burch – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

She broke new ground with a great series of handbag jackets in calfskin or felt – covered in multiple different sized pockets, like a monochrome de Stijl composition. While her excellently cut embroidered wool coats recalled a cubist image by George Braque.

“Twisted American sportswear. A second chance at classics… Women are defining classic for themselves,” argued Tory in her program notes. Staying true to that dictum in this collection.
 
Guests were divided into two floors, with most of the paparazzi action upstairs in Marron Family Atrium. The house had to install a large white wall to cover several works of art, for which MOMA could not provide visual rights in a show. Another wall was a humongous LED screen showing panning shots of guests arriving, where one could wave at oneself occasionally. 

Tory Burch – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Given the crisp production, the cackling track “Haha” by Charlotte Adigéry & Bolis Pupul jarred irritatingly to both begin and end the show. 
 
Apart from that small lapse, this was an impressive display from the 58-year-old Tory Burch, who took a languid bow looking remarkably unchanged from when she first appeared on the fashion scene with a small presentation in Little Italy back in 2024.  Today, Tory Burch is sold in over 3,000 stores. Like we said, overachiever chic.
 

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Finally an Executive Order-free fashion show

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February 11, 2025

Five days and some 30 shows into New York Fashion Week, and a designer finally has the guts to speak out against the new administration’s obvious attacks on the LGBTQI+ community. 

Luar fall/winter 2025 collection in New York City – Courtesy

His name is Raul Lopez, and his brand is Luar, whose latest collection was a great gutsy, provocative lust for love display. It’s title was “El Pato”, taken from a Spanish street slang homophobic slur, meaning “The Duck”, but implying someone is effeminate or queer. 
 
“It’s a term I wanted to reclaim. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, a Dominican Republic family in a primarily Puerto Rican neighborhood. The son of the super, so people would sneer “El Pato,” he explained.

The collection riffed on childhood images, of a young man playing with his hair like his mom, putting towels on his head, or wrapping jewelry around ankles. Paying homage to icons of the ballroom community, with nighttime jersey fabrics used as party gear – Nureyev in the neighborhood.

Luar fall/winter 2025 collection in New York City – Courtesy

“I come from an era where the caucasians got the diamonds and the pearls. While in the hood, you get the mink and fur and earrings and you are a happy doll,” insisted an energized Lopez in the backstage, as he embraced his mother.

Luar cut with a scalpel – from diagonally slashed tunics to fantasy pencil-thin pants suits in a muddy crocodile print. Or gathered chiffon skirts worn with high-tech leather blousons – the best of all on model Joan Smalls. Followed by a fantastical Martha Graham body stocking-meets-cape look that brought the first of many cheers from his ecstatic front row. Topped by fabulous bouffant space commander denim jackets – an after-hours Lieutenant Uhura in Bed-Stuy.
 
One T-Shirt even read in Spanish, ‘I talk shit about you,’ a Latino reply to others who would not respect their difference. 

Luar fall/winter 2025 collection in New York City – Courtesy

Asked about the flurry of Trump’s Executive Orders banning transexuals from the military and targeting drag queen performances in the Kennedy Center in Washington, Raul gave a robust response.
 
“I am not going in the closet for nobody. I had to fight to get where I am in an era where it was not cool to be me. Where I had strikes against me for being Latino, being flamboyant, being gay and dressing the way I do, and I’m not going in the closet for nobody ever again. We are at a point in our lives, where we need to tell people we are here, and we are not going anywhere! And the end of the day, we f*cking built this place. So let’s all unite. This brand is a platform to bring people together and enjoy a time of prosperity, love, abundance and joy,” he insisted to much applause.
 

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