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Hong Kong scientists fight to save fragrant incense trees

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ETX Daily Up

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February 9, 2025

Geneticist Zhang Huarong walks through the forest near his Hong Kong research lab, gesturing towards a rotting incense tree stump that is one of over a dozen illegally felled for the valuable wood inside.

AFP

A stone’s throw from the city’s urban centre are forests home to trees that produce fragrant — and valuable — agarwood, used in a number of high-end products from incense and perfume to traditional Chinese medicine.

Environmentalists say illegal incense tree felling is on the rise in Hong Kong, fueled by black market demand.

Scientists like Zhang are fighting back by taking DNA samples from each plant and creating a database that can help authorities crack down — as well as offer insights into how the trees can be better conserved.

“In one night, over 20 trees had been cut down by poachers,” Zhang, a researcher at Kadoorie Farm and Botanic Garden, told AFP.

“We have to take action.”

Hong Kong has long been a hub for sweet-smelling aromatic products. The city’s name — translating to “fragrant harbour” — is commonly linked to the area’s history of incense production and sale.

Agarwood is created when incense trees are cut, which causes the plant to produce a dark resin to prevent infection.

The product then takes the form of fragrant resinous wood.

Hong Kong authorities say that illegal incense tree felling soared twelvefold in 2023 compared to the previous year.

Often described as “black gold”, the highest-grade products can fetch up to $10,000 per kilo.

International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) has labelled Chinese Agarwood as “vulnerable” — blaming logging and wood harvesting for the population decline.

Aiming to reverse that, Zhang and other field researchers hiked for hours through swathes of Hong Kong’s dense jungle to access remote populations of incense trees.

Rural communities keen to protect the forests near their homes also assisted in developing the incense tree database, he told AFP.

“We have communications with those villages, and they share information with us about the remaining trees, and we also share our findings with them,” he said.

The database serves a joint purpose: assisting authorities in stopping illegal incense tree felling and helping researchers understand the species’ evolutionary potential.

Zhang said this research has identified unique genetic groups located in different areas of Hong Kong — diversity that could be key to cultivating a resilient wild population of the vulnerable species.

Larger genetic diversity protects populations from environmental changes, Zhang explained. 

For Hong Kong’s incense trees, that includes the effects of climate change and surges in logging activity.

This information lets conservationists know where to transplant certain incense trees from nurseries into the wild.

Authorities can then use this genetic data to cross-reference seized agarwood and check if it was taken from protected incense trees.

Hong Kong shop owner Aaron Tang sells wares that attest to the many uses of agarwood, from carved jewellery to oils and hand-rolled joss sticks.

To help protect the wild agarwood population, he said he verifies with raw material suppliers that their product comes from cultivated trees.

And when he teaches a class on making joss sticks, he warns his students against buying wild stock, or falling for illegally gotten products.

“The name of Hong Kong is because of agarwood so I want to keep this culture,” he said.

Unlike sustainable agarwood producers, the illegal ones create deep cuts on the tree in a bid to make it produce agarwood more quickly.

Then “they chop down the whole tree” for harvesting, Chinese University of Hong Kong scientist David Lau told AFP, pointing to a preserved incense tree trunk on campus.

A spokesperson for the city said they have set up patrols at “specific locations with important incense tree populations”.

They also insisted that illegal felling has decreased since measures implemented in 2018, including metal cages and surveillance around the most accessible trees.

But horticulturist Paul Melsom attributes the fall to there being “less trees to poach”.

And the illegal trade has continued to thrive despite government efforts.

Last year, Hong Kong’s customs department said it seized a tonne of agarwood in a single operation — its largest haul in two decades.

Authorities estimated it was worth about $2.3 million.

“The trees have been cut down and gone completely in many forests in Hong Kong,” Melsom said, adding he’s been planting incense trees in secret locations for over a decade in response.

“I’ve seen many incense trees disappear,” he said.
 

Copyright © 2025 ETX Daily Up. All rights reserved.



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Amazon faces union vote at North Carolina warehouse

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Reuters

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February 10, 2025

Amazon is facing its second workers’ union vote in as many months as laborers at a warehouse in suburban Raleigh, North Carolina, decide this week whether they wish to collectively bargain with the retail giant.

Reuters

Workers at the five-year-old warehouse in the city of Garner will vote through Friday to join or reject the upstart Carolina Amazonians United for Solidarity and Empowerment, or CAUSE, which seeks to push Amazon for higher wages, longer breaks and more scheduling flexibility, among other things. They will need a simple majority among voters to join the union.

In January, workers at a Whole Foods store in Philadelphia voted to unionize, the first successful organizing effort at the national grocery chain that Amazon acquired in 2017 for nearly $14 billion.

A successful union vote could open the door to further organizing at one of Amazon’s roughly 1,000 warehouses scattered across the U.S., potentially increasing its labor and logistics costs. A failed vote, on the other hand, could put a chill on organizers’ efforts.

Italo Medelius-Marsano, secretary for CAUSE, said the group is hoping to negotiate for wages of as much as $30 per hour and breaks of an hour, double what he said was the current time allowed for lunch, as well as better job protections. “We deserve better for the work we do day in and day out,” said Medelius-Marsano, 28, who staffs the warehouse’s shipping dock. “Amazon can afford to pay its workers better than they do.”

Amazon has vigorously rejected prior union actions, arguing that workers are better served by seeking changes directly with the company. Despite a successful 2022 union drive at a warehouse in Staten Island, Amazon is yet to recognize the group or negotiate with workers; and it is battling allegations of misconduct during two union votes at an Amazon warehouse in Alabama, for which the National Labor Relations Board has ruled a third election should be held.

Earlier this month, Whole Foods asked the NLRB to dismiss the results of the local election after the Trump administration fired two members of the agency, leaving it with only two board members, which it said is too few to certify the election results. Whole Foods also alleged the union coerced and intimidated workers in an effort to win the election.

Retaliation alleged

Meanwhile, Amazon has challenged the constitutionality of the NLRB itself in a September federal lawsuit.

An Amazon spokesperson, Eileen Hards, said the company opposed the formation of the union in North Carolina. “We’ve always said that we want our employees to have their voices heard, and we hope and expect this process allows for that,” said Hards in a statement, referring to the union vote. “We believe our employees favor opportunities to have their unique voice heard by working directly with our team.”

She said pay starts at $18.50 at the warehouse, more than double the state’s minimum wage.

Workers at several Amazon warehouses, from California to New York, walked off their jobs in December during the peak holiday shopping season. The strikes were organized by the International Brotherhood of Teamsters.

Medelius-Marsano said Amazon had already begun work to oppose the vote among the roughly 4,700 workers at the Garner facility, including playing anti-union messages on a loop in breakrooms and encouraging employees to attend voluntary meetings where officials push a “no” vote. Hards said Amazon has acted within its rights as an employer.

Several workers at the facility filed complaints with the NLRB last week alleging Amazon had retaliated against them for their union activity, including firing them or withholding benefits. Hards said Amazon “does not retaliate against employees for exercising their rights.”

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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The Lower East Side still rules, OK

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February 11, 2025

​Once, at the birth of punk rock, New Wave and street style, the Lower East Side was the trendiest neighborhood in the world. At Coach this season, it is again.

Coach – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Proudly mining the subcultures or lower Manhattan, and clearly referencing Larry Clark’s cult flick “Kids”, the latest collection by Coach was an ode to those glory days, even if it also riffed on the new generation’s desire to just be themselves.
 
The show was staged uptown on Park Avenue in the Armory, but the huge red brick set painted on toile suggested a forgotten factory under the old West Side Highway. 

Coach’s cerebral creative director Stuart Vevers didn’t live through that golden era in New York – unlike the author of this review – but he sure has absorbed its attitude and style.

Coach – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The key to the collection was a great series of figure-hugging biker and bomber jackets – in distressed leather or felt, finished with hyper high collars. All paired with gigantic washed-out heritage jeans, patched and lovingly repaired. Leo Fitzpatrick on the prowl.
 
Vevers, the father of two young kids, added a playful element – with half the cast sporting mini teddy bears, furry rabbits and even woolly carrots. While Vevers new series of sturdy and functional Twin Pocket bags recalled an even earlier era – Bonnie Cashin in the 1960s. A very youthful set of models, many culled from street castings marching around a synth-driven life group – Nation of Language.

Coach – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Etats-Unis – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

One of the biggest differences between major runway shows in Europe and in U.S., is that neither London, nor Milan, nor Paris suffer from months of sub-freezing weather as New York does. And did again Monday.
 
The result is that in fall/winter collections always have lots of bulky padded clothing. Vevers’ solutions was ingenious – long but snug peacoats with funnel necks and multi-pockets; or floor-sweeping duffell coats or undertaker coats in leather or shearling. All of them had great defiance and insolence, which is what Vevers planned.
 
“I try to listen to the new generation all the time, and what I hear is they want the right to self-expression, in their lives and in their fashion,” concluded Stuart.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Frame features Sienna Miller, Oli Green for Spring 2025 campaign

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February 10, 2025

Californian fashion house Frame has chosen its first ever double act to promote its new denim Spring 2025 collection. An intimate scene pairs British actors Sienna Miller and Oli Green for the latest in the brand’s series of ‘Icon’ portraits with this ‘powerful duo’ becoming the first to portray its men’s and women’s collections.

Frame’s campaign series “continues to redefine a new era of storytelling, putting fashion at the intersection of entertainment and art, through compelling casting and creative direction”, we’re told.

So Miller was a “natural choice” for Frame’s co-founder and creative director Erik Torstensson, choosing “an icon of the screen and red carpet, who has transcended her generation to become one of Hollywood’s most celebrated movie stars”.

Meanwhile Green, the London-based actor (Mosquito Coast and The Crown) and model (fronting several fashion campaigns) is the “handsome, promising young actor” in the scene.

The denim Icons campaign, shot by Torstensson, “continues the seminal series set in the bedroom, lending immediate intimacy to the portrait of the couple”. In it, Miller showcases The Vertical in Laurence (high-rise waist, full-length inseam, classic button-fly closure) in debuting the brand’s newest classic straight leg jean in rigid denim. Green wears the relaxed heavy denim shirt and the straight jean in vicente, crafted from sustainable and recycled cotton.

 

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