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As designer merry-go-round continues, Sabato De Sarno exits Gucci

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February 6, 2025

After 2024 was a record year for creative director changes, it looks like 2025 will give it a run for its money and the latest big-name change was announced on Thursday as Kering said Sabato De Sarno is out at Gucci.

Gucci – Spring-Summer2025 – Womenswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The luxury giant said its star label is ‘ending its collaboration’ with De Sarno and the change will be quick with the AW25 fashion show in Milan on February 25 being presented by the Gucci design office.

We’re told that “the new artistic direction will be announced in due time”.

De Sarno has been praised for his collections by some, although others have said they lacked the massive buzz created by former Gucci star creative chiefs such as Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele.

Regardless of the buzz around the brand, the fact is that its performance has been declining and in its latest quarter, Kering reported that Gucci sales were down 25%, worse than the 21% decline analysts had expected.

Yet Stefano Cantino, CEO of Gucci, said: “I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honoured Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment.”

And Francesca Bellettini, Kering Deputy CEO in charge of Brand Development, added: “I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work that has been done to further strengthen Gucci’s fundamentals. Stefano and the new artistic direction will continue to build on this and to guide Gucci towards renewed fashion leadership and sustainable growth.”

It gave no hint of who might replace him but there’s no shortage of big names available, or potentially available, with plenty of speculation about star creatives soon to move on from their existing labels. For now though, we’ll just have to wait and see.

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Fashion

Ralph Lauren raises annual revenue forecast on strong apparel demand

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February 6, 2025

Ralph Lauren raised its annual revenue forecast on Thursday, betting on more younger shoppers picking up its spring collection of dresses, skinny cuffed trousers and floral dinner jackets.

Ralph Lauren – Spring/Summer 2025 – Menswear – USA – New York – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Shares of the apparel maker rose 8% in premarket trading.

Unlike European fashion houses LVMH, Hugo Boss and Kering, Ralph Lauren has enjoyed strong demand as efforts to invest in brands such as Polo and Purple Label helped pull in wealthy shoppers, especially from the younger demographic.

Ralph Lauren has also posted strong sales in China over the past nine quarters, as an e-commerce expansion on the Douyin platform and the opening of full-price stores boosted demand for its clothing.

China accounts for about 8% of the company’s total sales.

Demand at Ralph Lauren’s direct-to-customer channels also remained robust, driven mainly by full-price sales, while its wholesale business is starting to recover in North America following muted growth for several quarters.

The company now expects 2025 revenue to increase between 6% and 7%, compared with its prior forecast for a 3% to 4% rise.

Its third-quarter sales rose to $2.14 billion from $1.93 billion a year earlier, compared with analysts’ estimates of $2.01 billion, according to data compiled by LSEG.
 

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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Bank of England cuts rates again, sterling falls

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February 6, 2025

The Bank of England cut interest rates by a quarter of a percentage point on Thursday, judging a sharp upward revision to its inflation forecasts for this year will prove temporary.

The cut to 4.5% was in line with economists’ expectations in a Reuters poll, but two officials called for a bigger rate cut against a backdrop of weaker growth.

Sterling fell to $1.2370, from $1.2425 just before the decision and was down over 1% on the day. The pound also weakened against the euro to last trade around 83.74 pence compared 83.40 pence earlier.

UK government bond yields fell, with two-year yields last down 6 basis points at 4.08% versus 4.13% just before the rate decision.

London’s blue-chip FTSE and the mid-cap FTSE 250 stock index accelerated their gains and were last up over 1.5% each.

Comments:
Zara Nokes, Global Market Analyst, JP Morgan Asset Management, London:
“With December’s softer-than-expected inflation print having fuelled market expectations for a cut, the Bank of England likely felt it had no other choice today. The distribution of votes showed high conviction in the call, yet this approach is not without risks.

“While economic activity is clearly slowing, inflation pressures are not. Inflation expectations have picked up as a result of higher energy prices, strong wage growth and businesses signalling that they intend to charge higher prices in response to October’s tax hike.

“The growth outlook might also not be as bad as business surveys suggest, with the large increase to public services spending announced in the Autumn Budget likely to provide a tailwind to growth this year, offsetting some of the private sector weakness. Against this backdrop, the Bank must be resolute in its commitment to bring inflation back to target.

“Rate cuts might be popular in the short term but, ultimately, there will be a higher price to pay further down the line if inflation is not stamped out now.”

Zsolt Kohalmi, Deputy CEO & Global Head of Real Estate, Pictet Alternative Advisors, London:
“Interest rates are crucial to the real estate recovery story. UK rates are currently between the U.S., which are higher, and continental Europe, which are lower.
“For a recovery in the UK real estate market to really take place, though, UK rates need to come down significantly and be closer to the European rate curve outlook, rather than the U.S. For now, this is far from certain, but would be a bonus for investors in UK real estate.”

Michael Field, Chief European Strategist, Morning Star, Amsterdam:
“With plentiful equity market opportunities for investors in the UK, we believe further interest rate cuts over the course of 2025 will lighten the load for consumers and businesses alike. This should create a more supportive economic backdrop for commerce generally.”

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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CurrentBody owner The Beauty Tech Group mulls £350m IPO

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February 5, 2025

Ambitious Beauty Tech Group is working with investment bank Berenberg on plans to float the business on the main London market later this year.

The owner of CurrentBody, ZIIP Beauty and Tria Laser brands is plotting a £350 million IPO, reported Sky News. However details, including the size of any primary share sale, have yet to be finalised, insiders said, with the £350 million figure an estimate.

Manchester-based The Beauty Tech Group, which is run by co-founder and chief executive Laurence Newman, is owned by its management team including fellow co-founder and chief technology officer Andrew Showman and finance chief Sam Glynn together with “a group of high net worth individuals”, the reports said.

The group saw a major increase in revenue last year, with sales passing the £100 million for the first time, up from £80m in 2023. Its revenues comprise just under a quarter from the UK and 77% internationally. Since the beginning of this year, it has been exclusively focused on own-brand sales.

The report says the beauty technology market is projected to grow from £2.7 billion in global sales in 2023 at a compound annual growth rate of up to 17% until 2026, according to PricewaterhouseCoopers.

In a statement to Sky News, Newman said: “2024 was another significant year financially and strategically for the group. We delivered revenue of over £100 million and successfully acquired Tria Laser while also completing the integration of ZIIP Beauty.

He added: “These acquisitions have diversified and increased the group’s product offering across the rapidly growing beauty tech market and, in line with our strategic ambitions, the group is now focused exclusively on own-brand products. I am confident that 2025 will be another record year.”

The business, which describes itself as a global industry leader in home-use beauty technology, is focused on products which use LED, radio frequency, microcurrent and laser treatments. It counts Harrods among its retail partners, while its products are also sold on more than 20 direct-to-consumer websites around the world.

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