Last, but very much not least, Kevin Germanier from Switzerland, whose beaded fantasies and recycled magic made for a brilliant show to bring down the curtains on Paris haute couture season.
Inspired by the character Bree Van de Kamp of “Desperate Housewives”, and the idea how she might go slightly crazy if she popped a powerful pill, this was the most far-out collection seen in the four-day Paris season that ended Thursday night.
Presented in a salon overlooking the Seine, just 25 models in a surreally beaded wardrobe many based on second-hand French luxury jackets, blazers and dresses that Kevin revealed he had acquired in vintage stores in LA. Before sending his embroiderers into overdrive – showering every inch of each outfit in dazzling and glistening beading. Opening with a Swiss flag red-and-white suit, completed with scalloped hem of glistening plastic spikes. Then mashing-up tribal colors, Rio carnival and flamenco crochets into the ultimate in sustainable chic.
“I am Swiss. And I was raised to be perfect. Just like Bree Van de Kamp in ‘Desperate Housewives’. I am the busy Bree of fashion, or maybe I should say ‘bead’, as there is so much beading in my collections!” joked Kevin post-show.
“Anyway, I imagined if Bree had taken a pill and suddenly went a little crazy and colorful. That’s what I wanted on the runway,” chuckled Germanier, who was so emotional after taking his bow he needed three minutes to gather his breathe to talk.
In a co-ed show, the guys wore beaded and encrusted tunics where roses, urchins and peonies bloomed. Anything and everything thrown together in this very cool moment. Faber & Castell cool – as pencils sprouting from one futurist goddess body stocking.
What looked like thigh boots were, in fact, beaded socks that ran a meter up the leg. Though most of the cast wore spike heels encrusted with so much beading they looked like red sea whip or deep-water anemone.
Before Kevin took his ovation to a huge cheer, every whoop and clap and whistle deserved.
President Donald Trump said on Sunday the sweeping tariffs that he has imposed on Mexico, Canada and China may cause “some pain” for Americans, as Wall Street and the largest U.S. trading partners signaled hope that the trade war would not last long.
Trump, who began his second term as president on Jan. 20, defended the tariffs that he announced on Saturday. Canada and Mexico said they were working together to face the 25% U.S. duties on imports, which promise to jolt the integrated economies of three North American countries that have had free-trade agreements for decades.
Canada and Mexico immediately vowed retaliatory measures after Trump’s announcement on Saturday. China said it would challenge Trump’s 10% tariffs at the World Trade Organization and take unspecified countermeasures.
Critics said that the moves against the three largest U.S. trading partners will hurt Americans by driving prices higher and slowing global growth.
Trump defended his decision on social media on Sunday.
“The USA has major deficits with Canada, Mexico, and China (and almost all countries!), owes 36 Trillion Dollars, and we’re not going to be the ‘Stupid Country’ any longer,” the Republican president wrote.
Writing in capital letters, Trump added, “This will be the golden age of America! Will there be some pain? Yes, maybe (and maybe not!).”
Trump did not specify what he meant by “some pain.”
A model gauging the economic impact of Trump’s tariff plan from EY Chief Economist Greg Daco suggests it would reduce U.S. economic growth by 1.5 percentage points this year, throw Canada and Mexico into recession and usher in “stagflation” – high inflation, stagnant economic growth and elevated unemployment – at home.
Financial markets were closed over the weekend but the measures will initially be felt when U.S. stock futures trading 6 p.m. ET (2300 GMT) on Sunday. Markets were awaiting developments with anxiety, but some analysts said there had been some hope for negotiations, especially with Canada and China.
“With only two days before implementation, the tariffs look likely to take effect, though a last-minute compromise cannot be completely ruled out,” Goldman Sachs economists said in a note Sunday.
They added that since the White House set very general conditions for their removal, the levies are likely to be temporary, “but the outlook is unclear.”
The Trump tariffs, outlined in three executive orders, are due to take effect on at 12:01 a.m. ET (0501 GMT) on Tuesday. Trump vowed to keep them in place until what he described as a national emergency over fentanyl, a deadly opioid, and illegal immigration to the United States ends.
China left the door open for talks with the United States. Its sharpest pushback was over fentanyl.
“Fentanyl is America’s problem,” China’s foreign ministry said, adding that China has taken extensive measures to combat the problem.
Canada’s ambassador to the United States, Kirsten Hillman, on Sunday signaled hope for an agreement.
“We’re hopeful that they don’t come into effect on Tuesday,” Hillman said on ABC’s “This Week” program.
Hillman said Canadian officials are ready to keep talking to the United States but that Canadians expect that their government “stands up for itself.”
Trump has sounded particularly dismissive toward Canada, with calls for the country to become the 51st U.S. state and saying it “ceases to exist as a viable country” without its “massive subsidy.”
A Reuters/Ipsos poll released last week showed Americans were divided on tariffs, with 54% opposing new duties on imported goods and 43% in support, with Democrats more opposed and Republicans more supportive.
The tariff announcement made good on Trump’s repeated threat during the 2024 presidential campaign and since taking office, defying warnings from top economists that a new trade war with the top American trade partners would erode U.S. and global growth, while raising prices for consumers and companies.
Less than two weeks into his second term, Trump is upending the norms of how the United States is governed and interacts with its neighbors and wider world.
Trump declared the national emergency under laws called the International Emergency Economic Powers Act and the National Emergencies Act to back the tariffs. They give the president sweeping powers to impose sanctions to address crises.
Trade lawyers said Trump was once again testing the limits of U.S. laws, and the tariffs could face legal challenges. Democratic lawmakers Suzan DelBene and Don Beyer decried what they called a blatant abuse of executive power.
Republicans welcomed Trump’s action. Industry groups and Democrats issued warnings about the impact on prices. “Who will suffer most? American consumers – who will face skyrocketing prices on everything from groceries to gas to cars,” U.S. Representative Josh Gottheimer wrote on social media.
Investors were considering the effects of additional tariffs promised by Trump, including those related to oil and gas, as well as steel, aluminum, semiconductor chips and pharmaceuticals. Trump has also vowed actions against the European Union. “It’s only a matter of time before the EU is targeted,” said Marchel Alexandrovich of Saltmarch Economics in London.
The European Union said it was not aware of any additional tariffs being imposed on EU products. A European Commission spokesperson said the EU believes tariffs are harmful to all sides but “would respond firmly to any trading partner that unfairly or arbitrarily imposes tariffs on EU goods.”
Europe’s biggest carmaker, Volkswagen, said it was counting on talks to avoid trade conflict.
Automakers would be particularly hard hit, with new steep tariffs on vehicles built in Canada and Mexico burdening a vast regional supply chain where parts can cross borders several times before final assembly.
In a message aimed at Americans, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau said U.S. citizens would be hurt by rising grocery and gasoline prices, as well as the possible shuttering of auto assembly plants and limited supplies of metals and minerals. Trudeau urged Canadians to boycott the United States and its goods.
Trudeau said on Saturday evening that Canada would respond with 25% tariffs against $155 billion of U.S. goods, including beer, wine, lumber and appliances, beginning with $30 billion taking effect on Tuesday and $125 billion 21 days later.
Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum did not provide details on planned retaliatory tariffs.
A White House fact sheet said the tariffs would stay in place “until the crisis alleviated,” but gave no details on what the three countries would need to do to win a reprieve.
Trump imposed only a 10% duty on energy products from Canada after concerns raised by oil refiners and Midwestern states. At nearly $100 billion in 2023, imports of crude oil accounted for roughly a quarter of all U.S. imports from Canada, according to U.S. Census Bureau data.
The White House officials said that Canada specifically would no longer be allowed the “de minimis” U.S. duty exemption for shipments under $800. The officials said Canada, along with Mexico, has become a conduit for shipments of fentanyl and its precursor chemicals into the U.S. via small packages that are not often inspected by customs agents.
Reliance Retail has launched an app in India to sell fashionwear from China’s Shein under a licensing deal, almost five years since Shein’s app was banned in the country after getting caught up in a diplomatic tussle.
Reliance, owned by billionaire Mukesh Ambani, launched the app on Saturday morning, said a person with direct knowledge of Reliance’s launch plans. The firm did not announce the launch.
Neither parent Reliance Industries nor Shein responded to requests for comment outside of business hours.
The Shein India Fast Fashion app represents a departure from Reliance’s strategy of adding brands to its flagship fashion app Ajio – whose offering includes Superdry and Gap – as it competes with rivals such as Myntra from Walmart’s Flipkart.
Shein, founded in China in 2012 and later headquartered in Singapore, offers a vast selection of low-priced Western clothes. Its app was banned in India in 2020 alongside other Chinese apps such as ByteDance’s TikTok due to data security concerns, after a border dispute soured Indo-Chinese relations.
Last year, India’s government disclosed to parliament that Reliance had entered an agreement with Shein under which Indian manufacturers would supply products under the Shein brand. It did not make any other details public.
“The fashion OG (original) is back,” said a message displayed upon opening the app. Deliveries will initially be limited to a few cities including New Delhi and Mumbai and expanded nationwide soon, it said.
Offerings include dresses priced as low as 350 rupees ($4).
Reliance will pay a licence fee for using Shein’s brand name, said the person with direct knowledge of the matter. There is no equity investment in the partnership, the person said, without elaborating on financial arrangements.
All Shein-branded products sold through the app are designed and made in India, said a second person with direct knowledge of the matter. The clothing will later be made available on Ajio, the person said, without providing a time frame.
Shein aims to list in London in the first half of the year. It ended its attempt to list in the U.S. following objections from lawmakers who questioned China’s requirement for businesses to seek approval to list abroad, Reuters has reported.
Paris Haute Couture Week for the Spring/Summer 2025 collections has showcased sophisticated and highly inventive creations, such as those presented on Thursday by Franck Sorbier, who continues with his amazing artisanal work, Viktor & Rolf, which reinterpreted the codes of haute couture, and Gaurav Gupta, who blended spirituality and a futuristic vibe.
This season, Franck Sorbier created a collection full of contrasts. Black contrasted with soft hues, structured textures with lightweight ones, and power with finesse. The collection was inspired by the theme of barbarians and ancient Rome. Sorbier’s first silhouettes put the emphasis on materials. They featured dark dresses alternating with shimmering, metallic ones, made using the compression technique developed by Sorbier, in which different materials, such as velvet, taffeta and pleated fabrics, are assembled and stitched together.
The dresses consisted of panels that floated downward, while their tops looked almost like cuirasses. A sinuously shaped dress was made with swathes of bronze-coloured fabric, as if cut out of animal hide. Short A-line dresses with large collars, some adorned with fabric feathers, were reminiscent of the outfits of a Roman legions’ centurions.
They were made in a shiny, textured jacquard fabric, sometimes threaded with metal, sometimes with golden leaves, giving them a luxurious 1970s vibe. “These are young people’s looks, very cocktail party,” said Sorbier, adding that “it’s important for haute couture to have a young allure. It’s also a message for the future. We’re preparing tomorrow today.”
The show ended with ethereal silhouettes featuring pastel-coloured muslin dresses, vaporous and gathered at the top. They represented peace, embodied in young girls holding olive branches, accompanied by the melodious voice of opera singer Catherine Trautmann singing the Pie Jesu aria from Gabriel Fauré’s “Requiem”. As always, Sorbier managed to arouse emotion. He took a clear stand against war, displaying the symbol of peace on the back of his jacket.
As it often does, Viktor & Rolf took a tongue-in-cheek approach to haute couture. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren focused this time on a single silhouette, which they presented in 24 possible variations. “Beige silk gazar trench coat, white gazar shirt, blue gazar trousers,” recited an off-stage voice as each look walked out, every time introducing a totally different creation.
The trench coat played the starring role, often enveloping the body in voluminous coat-dresses, including sumptuous evening gowns and a majestic cape. In turns, the coats were richly decorated with knots, ruffles, gathers, pleated bands, or overflowed with strips of fabric with frayed hems. Some items featured oversize collars and burgeoning shoulders. Others morphed into a crinkled draped jacket, or a short biker-style top. In some cases, the coats dropped down to the ankles, cinched with a belt below the buttocks, or extended into a long train. In yet another version, the sleeves were tied at the waist in a huge knot, while the coat was reduced to a cloak covering just the thighs at the back of the trousers. One of Viktor & Rolf’s trench coats even turned into a dress for a doll attached to the model’s waist.
The label played the same magician’s tricks with the white shirt, turning into a dress, and featuring it in all possible shapes and puffed-up volumes. And with the blue trousers, transformed as needed into assorted shorts, gathered knickers, and of course into a skirt. The approach was reminiscent of a previous collection, that of Spring/Summer 2024, in which the designer duo presented four different versions of each wardrobe staple, each cut in different shapes.
Gaurav Gupta presented a high-impact collection emphasising striking, sculptural silhouettes. His models looked like goddesses or warriors from distant galaxies, clad in slinky black sheath dresses with oversized collars, their faces and heads adorned with masks and futuristic jewellery.
Garments in black velvet or silk were accented by gold and midnight blue metallic elements: gleaming brooches, serpents snaking across the chest, belts, metal bras, plastrons, and armour-like corsets. Ribbons floated airily around a top. Cascades of crystals beaded long dresses. Some silhouettes’ organic shapes were reminiscent of Iris van Herpen.
The collection was entitled “Across the Flame”, and was conceived as a celebration of resilience. The Indian designer, who studied at Central Saint Martins in London, is celebrating his label’s 20th anniversary this year. He was the victim of a fire which seriously injured him and his partner Navkirat Sodhi. The latter opened the show treading barefoot on the runway, wearing a tulle veil that barely hid his scars, and reciting a poem about his healing journey. Two models laced together into a single orange draped sari symbolised resilience in the collection.