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Fashion finally finds a home in the world’s greatest museum

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February 2, 2025

“The Louvre is the greatest mood board in the world,” insisted curator Olivier Gabet, as he gave FashionNetwork.com a personal tour of “Louvre Couture”, the first fashion exhibition inside the planet’s most famous museum.

A Chloé look at the ‘Louvre Couture’ exhibition – Courtesy

A fascinating display, “Louvre Couture” is a unique visual tour through the museum’s Department of Decorative Arts, to illustrate the close links between art, fashion and fashion designers.
 
Many of the couturiers from the 45 houses fashion represented were frequent visitors to the Louvre, so often that at times their works of fashion and accessories seem to walk right out of the oil paintings or tapestries; or look like they had lived in the opulent decorative settings for many decades.

Fashion visionaries like Karl Lagerfeld, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Azzedine Alaia or Irish Van Herpen, to name just a few, have all be regular visitors. As is evident from “Louvre Couture, Art and Fashion: Statement Pieces”, to give it its full name.
 

Paco Rabanne, Balenciaga, Loewe, and Gareth Pugh at the “Louvre Couture” – Courtesy

Part of the Louvre Couture’s strength is that it has already in the few days since it opened has begun luring hundreds more visitors daily to the northern wing of the museum, and its unique decorative rooms, allowing them to discover remarkable, sometimes overlooked objects.

And not just concentrate their time on the southern wing with its oil paintings, and the world’s most viewed work of art, the Mona Lisa. Taking fashionistas and style novices on a journey through 9,000 square-meters to discover over 100 exquisite works of fashion, placed amid unique craftsmanship and the rarest ornamentation. A useful pamphlet lists each fashion object making discovery easier.
 
Louvre Couture covers fashion from 1960 to 2025, all the works borrowed from fashion houses, ranging spatially all the way to Napoleon’s apartment, where creations by the likes of Jean-Paul Gaultier and Yohji Yamamoto greet you. All are borrowed, except for three looks – a trio of early 18th-century ceremonial velvet capes of the Order of the Holy Spirit, founded by Henri II, and abolished in the Revolution. Who seemed to have found new friends among gilded works by Balmain and Schiaparelli.

A golden dress from Versace at “Louvre Couture” – Courtesy

Other designs just look naturally at ease, like a splendid silk faille Versace dress created by Donatella in a homage collection to Gianni’s prints. In this case, the golden foliage and acanthus leaves of the print fit perfectly with an uber grandiose Second Empire canopy bed. While Rick Owens 2020 split cocoon crepe dress from his Tecuatl collection, which blends Aztec and Egyptian elements, dovetails perfectly with its surroundings, given the Egyptomania that engulfed early 19th-century France.
 
At times, it’s hard to tell the fashion item apart from the objects: a Dolce & Gabbana box handbag in hand painted pine, looks almost interchangeable with a series of Sevres ceramic basins, while a Chanel Byzantine brooch blends in completely with mid 18th century Germanic snuff boxes.
 
Colors discovered in the Louvre leak into high fashion. A spring 2019 blue-and-white Chanel jacket embroidered by Lesage, has the exact same hues as 1742 commode by Mathieu Criaerd, while a curvaceous moiré dress by Jeremy Scott for Moschino echoes the curves of a Boullé table, and a golden pajama suit by Hubert de Givenchy – a famed furniture collector – boasts the exact same sheen as a bronze gold Boulle armoire.
 
Another key element is the skillful scenography by Agence Nathalie Crinière, like leaving an ottoman silk wedding dress by Yves Saint Laurent in a charming room of sculpted and gold-trimmed boiserie. As if a bride were having a moment of calm and reflection right before taking her vows.
 

An Alexander McQueen look for Louvre Couture – Courtesy

 Nicolas Ghesquière’s 2018 silk and metal brocade frock coat for Louis Vuitton finds a happy space among a Louis XIV drawing room, as does an Alessandro Michele Flower Power-meets-Anatole France coat.

Other looks restore reputations, like Alexander McQueen’s widely panned 1997 debut show for Givenchy, which included a white high-collar general’s ceremonial suit, which could have been tailored for Napoleon Bonaparte, a portrait of whom hangs behind it.
 
Contemporary designers are well represented – Gareth Pugh, Marine Serre, Duro Olowu, and Jonathan Anderson with his glass pearl Bologna Dog on a trapeze dress. Or a heroic Dries Van Noten gents’ coat that seems made out of the outstanding Bruges Renaissance tapestries it stands among.
 
But one senses the stars of the show are often Gabet’s favorites – like Karl, Demna and John. Lagerfeld – with multiple Chanel creations, including his 2010 Paris-Byzantine Métiers d’Art collection – a major theme in Louvre Couture. Doubly so, as the museum plans to open a dedicated Byzantine division in the coming years.

A Gucci look at Louvre Couture – Courtesy

Demna’s famed medieval collection, a knight in armor – made of coated resin –  takes pride of place in the Armory Room, while the phantasmagorical deranged madcap king by Galliano for Dior is such a clearly surreal interpretation of a great oil of the Sun King that it would be a pity to ever move it.
 
In a very real sense, the Louvre has been slow to embrace fashion. Keeping it always at an arm’s length, as an applied art presented inside the adjacent Decorative Arts Museum (MAD),  but never until this month inside the actual Louvre.

Asked if he considered fashion as fine art? Gabet raises an eyebrow, as if being posed a trick question, before responding by asking another question: “I think that separating and dividing creativity into different hierarchies is very old fashioned, isn’t it?”
 
And, yes, I suppose it is.
 
Louvre Couture is open until July 21.

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Trump says Americans could feel ‘pain’ in trade war with Mexico, Canada, China

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February 2, 2025

President Donald Trump said on Sunday the sweeping tariffs that he has imposed on Mexico, Canada and China may cause “some pain” for Americans, as Wall Street and the largest U.S. trading partners signaled hope that the trade war would not last long.

Reuters

Trump, who began his second term as president on Jan. 20, defended the tariffs that he announced on Saturday. Canada and Mexico said they were working together to face the 25% U.S. duties on imports, which promise to jolt the integrated economies of three North American countries that have had free-trade agreements for decades.

Canada and Mexico immediately vowed retaliatory measures after Trump’s announcement on Saturday. China said it would challenge Trump’s 10% tariffs at the World Trade Organization and take unspecified countermeasures.

Critics said that the moves against the three largest U.S. trading partners will hurt Americans by driving prices higher and slowing global growth.

Trump defended his decision on social media on Sunday.

“The USA has major deficits with Canada, Mexico, and China (and almost all countries!), owes 36 Trillion Dollars, and we’re not going to be the ‘Stupid Country’ any longer,” the Republican president wrote.

Writing in capital letters, Trump added, “This will be the golden age of America! Will there be some pain? Yes, maybe (and maybe not!).”

Trump did not specify what he meant by “some pain.”

A model gauging the economic impact of Trump’s tariff plan from EY Chief Economist Greg Daco suggests it would reduce U.S. economic growth by 1.5 percentage points this year, throw Canada and Mexico into recession and usher in “stagflation” – high inflation, stagnant economic growth and elevated unemployment – at home.

Financial markets were closed over the weekend but the measures will initially be felt when U.S. stock futures trading 6 p.m. ET (2300 GMT) on Sunday. Markets were awaiting developments with anxiety, but some analysts said there had been some hope for negotiations, especially with Canada and China.

“With only two days before implementation, the tariffs look likely to take effect, though a last-minute compromise cannot be completely ruled out,” Goldman Sachs economists said in a note Sunday.

They added that since the White House set very general conditions for their removal, the levies are likely to be temporary, “but the outlook is unclear.”

The Trump tariffs, outlined in three executive orders, are due to take effect on at 12:01 a.m. ET (0501 GMT) on Tuesday. Trump vowed to keep them in place until what he described as a national emergency over fentanyl, a deadly opioid, and illegal immigration to the United States ends.

China left the door open for talks with the United States. Its sharpest pushback was over fentanyl.

“Fentanyl is America’s problem,” China’s foreign ministry said, adding that China has taken extensive measures to combat the problem.

Canada’s ambassador to the United States, Kirsten Hillman, on Sunday signaled hope for an agreement.

“We’re hopeful that they don’t come into effect on Tuesday,” Hillman said on ABC’s “This Week” program.

Hillman said Canadian officials are ready to keep talking to the United States but that Canadians expect that their government “stands up for itself.”

Trump has sounded particularly dismissive toward Canada, with calls for the country to become the 51st U.S. state and saying it “ceases to exist as a viable country” without its “massive subsidy.”

A Reuters/Ipsos poll released last week showed Americans were divided on tariffs, with 54% opposing new duties on imported goods and 43% in support, with Democrats more opposed and Republicans more supportive.

The tariff announcement made good on Trump’s repeated threat during the 2024 presidential campaign and since taking office, defying warnings from top economists that a new trade war with the top American trade partners would erode U.S. and global growth, while raising prices for consumers and companies.

Less than two weeks into his second term, Trump is upending the norms of how the United States is governed and interacts with its neighbors and wider world.

Trump declared the national emergency under laws called the International Emergency Economic Powers Act and the National Emergencies Act to back the tariffs. They give the president sweeping powers to impose sanctions to address crises.

Trade lawyers said Trump was once again testing the limits of U.S. laws, and the tariffs could face legal challenges. Democratic lawmakers Suzan DelBene and Don Beyer decried what they called a blatant abuse of executive power.

Republicans welcomed Trump’s action. Industry groups and Democrats issued warnings about the impact on prices.
“Who will suffer most? American consumers – who will face skyrocketing prices on everything from groceries to gas to cars,” U.S. Representative Josh Gottheimer wrote on social media.

Investors were considering the effects of additional tariffs promised by Trump, including those related to oil and gas, as well as steel, aluminum, semiconductor chips and pharmaceuticals. Trump has also vowed actions against the European Union.
“It’s only a matter of time before the EU is targeted,” said Marchel Alexandrovich of Saltmarch Economics in London.

The European Union said it was not aware of any additional tariffs being imposed on EU products. A European Commission spokesperson said the EU believes tariffs are harmful to all sides but “would respond firmly to any trading partner that unfairly or arbitrarily imposes tariffs on EU goods.”

Europe’s biggest carmaker, Volkswagen, said it was counting on talks to avoid trade conflict.

Automakers would be particularly hard hit, with new steep tariffs on vehicles built in Canada and Mexico burdening a vast regional supply chain where parts can cross borders several times before final assembly.

In a message aimed at Americans, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau said U.S. citizens would be hurt by rising grocery and gasoline prices, as well as the possible shuttering of auto assembly plants and limited supplies of metals and minerals. Trudeau urged Canadians to boycott the United States and its goods.

Trudeau said on Saturday evening that Canada would respond with 25% tariffs against $155 billion of U.S. goods, including beer, wine, lumber and appliances, beginning with $30 billion taking effect on Tuesday and $125 billion 21 days later.

Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum did not provide details on planned retaliatory tariffs.

A White House fact sheet said the tariffs would stay in place “until the crisis alleviated,” but gave no details on what the three countries would need to do to win a reprieve.

Trump imposed only a 10% duty on energy products from Canada after concerns raised by oil refiners and Midwestern states. At nearly $100 billion in 2023, imports of crude oil accounted for roughly a quarter of all U.S. imports from Canada, according to U.S. Census Bureau data.

The White House officials said that Canada specifically would no longer be allowed the “de minimis” U.S. duty exemption for shipments under $800. The officials said Canada, along with Mexico, has become a conduit for shipments of fentanyl and its precursor chemicals into the U.S. via small packages that are not often inspected by customs agents.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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Billionaire Ambani’s Reliance brings Shein back to India after 2020 app ban

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February 2, 2025

Reliance Retail has launched an app in India to sell fashionwear from China’s Shein under a licensing deal, almost five years since Shein’s app was banned in the country after getting caught up in a diplomatic tussle.

Shein

Reliance, owned by billionaire Mukesh Ambani, launched the app on Saturday morning, said a person with direct knowledge of Reliance’s launch plans. The firm did not announce the launch.

Neither parent Reliance Industries nor Shein responded to requests for comment outside of business hours.

The Shein India Fast Fashion app represents a departure from Reliance’s strategy of adding brands to its flagship fashion app Ajio – whose offering includes Superdry and Gap – as it competes with rivals such as Myntra from Walmart’s Flipkart.

Shein, founded in China in 2012 and later headquartered in Singapore, offers a vast selection of low-priced Western clothes. Its app was banned in India in 2020 alongside other Chinese apps such as ByteDance’s TikTok due to data security concerns, after a border dispute soured Indo-Chinese relations.

Last year, India’s government disclosed to parliament that Reliance had entered an agreement with Shein under which Indian manufacturers would supply products under the Shein brand. It did not make any other details public.

“The fashion OG (original) is back,” said a message displayed upon opening the app. Deliveries will initially be limited to a few cities including New Delhi and Mumbai and expanded nationwide soon, it said.

Offerings include dresses priced as low as 350 rupees ($4).

Reliance will pay a licence fee for using Shein’s brand name, said the person with direct knowledge of the matter. There is no equity investment in the partnership, the person said, without elaborating on financial arrangements.

All Shein-branded products sold through the app are designed and made in India, said a second person with direct knowledge of the matter. The clothing will later be made available on Ajio, the person said, without providing a time frame.

Shein aims to list in London in the first half of the year. It ended its attempt to list in the U.S. following objections from lawmakers who questioned China’s requirement for businesses to seek approval to list abroad, Reuters has reported. 

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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Germanier: Desperate Housewives Swiss fantasy

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February 2, 2025

Last, but very much not least, Kevin Germanier from Switzerland, whose beaded fantasies and recycled magic made for a brilliant show to bring down the curtains on Paris haute couture season.

Germanier – Spring-Summer2025 – Haute Couture – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Inspired by the character Bree Van de Kamp of “Desperate Housewives”, and the idea how she might go slightly crazy if she popped a powerful pill, this was the most far-out collection seen in the four-day Paris season that ended Thursday night. 
 
Presented in a salon overlooking the Seine, just 25 models in a surreally beaded wardrobe many based on second-hand French luxury jackets, blazers and dresses that Kevin revealed he had acquired in vintage stores in LA.  Before sending his embroiderers into overdrive – showering every inch of each outfit in dazzling and glistening beading. Opening with a Swiss flag red-and-white suit, completed with scalloped hem of glistening plastic spikes. Then mashing-up tribal colors, Rio carnival and flamenco crochets into the ultimate in sustainable chic.

“I am Swiss. And I was raised to be perfect. Just like Bree Van de Kamp in ‘Desperate Housewives’. I am the busy Bree of fashion, or maybe I should say ‘bead’, as there is so much beading in my collections!” joked Kevin post-show.

Germanier – Spring-Summer2025 – Haute Couture – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

“Anyway, I imagined if Bree had taken a pill and suddenly went a little crazy and colorful. That’s what I wanted on the runway,” chuckled Germanier, who was so emotional after taking his bow he needed three minutes to gather his breathe to talk.
 
In a co-ed show, the guys wore beaded and encrusted tunics where roses, urchins and peonies bloomed. Anything and everything thrown together in this very cool moment. Faber & Castell cool – as pencils sprouting from one futurist goddess body stocking.
 
What looked like thigh boots were, in fact, beaded socks that ran a meter up the leg. Though most of the cast wore spike heels encrusted with so much beading they looked like red sea whip or deep-water anemone.
 
Before Kevin took his ovation to a huge cheer, every whoop and clap and whistle deserved.
 
 

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