Now that’s what we call a bona fide great haute-couture show. Giorgio Armani inaugurated his new Paris mansion HQ on Tuesday with his most path-breaking couture show, and the best fashion moment of the French season.
Presented inside a Grand Empire cut-stone building on rue François Premier, this spring/summer 2025 collection also celebrated Armani’s 20th anniversary in Paris couture. The result: easily the most beautiful clothes in this week’s couture.
Winning Giorgio a standing ovation from a front row that included Demi Moore, Jessica Biel, Marisa Berenson and Poppy Delevingne. A key element in any January couture show is spotting the looks that nominees will wear to the Oscars on March 4. No show in Paris this season will have as many beautiful and beguiling options.
Starting with the feather-light tailoring in silk gazars and metallic satins, paired with fluid silken dhotis. Worn by models with Malay hats and skullcaps encrusted with crystals. Every exactly draped jacket with peplums reeking of luxury and elegance.
Armani’s cast toured through several rooms on a Perspex covered mock alabaster runway driven on by his preferred galactic funk, led by “Waiting” from Maratus & Just Emma.
The show went into overdrive twice. First with a series of magnificent columns or singlet dresses in micro plissé metallic silks, their bodices embroidered in bugle beads, sequins and micro strass.
Asia, a huge influence on Armani’s oeuvre, then played a huge role in a series of chiffon pants suits and more columns in Giorgio’s non-colors of cement, steam or pale clouds, magically finished with images of bamboo, chrysanthemums and palm trees. Talk about a wow factor.
Backed up orchestra sounds – “From Nothing” by Generdyn – suggesting another stylistic universe, the show felt triumphant. Before a beaming Giorgio took a full tour of the gilded rooms, arm in arm with a couture bride.
In a sense, it’s been a long struggle for Armani to win over the toughest judges in the world of style – the Paris fashion elite. Twenty years ago, when he staged his debut Privé collection Armani got off to a bizarre start by staging it inside a banal modernist building on a side street. Throughout the aughties, he garnered respect, but critics were more wowed by the theatrics of John Galliano at Dior, the monumental staging of Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel or the grandeur of Valentino.
Today, however, in his 90th year, as he opened his Paris mansion, it is clear that this couture season belongs to Giorgio Armani, the Italian maestro della mode. Roll on the Academy Awards.
As the Italians like to say: Dieci e lode! Or ten out of ten!
Canadian design company Arc’teryx announced on Thursday the appointment of Matt Bolte as chief merchandising officer, as well as Marissa Pardini as general manager, and Ben Stubbington as creative director of the company’s Veilance brand.
Bolte brings nearly 35 years of retail leadership experience across global markets to Arc’teryx. He previously served as a partner at ThenWhat, focusing on brand consulting and launching innovative apparel brands. Prior to that, he had a 17-year tenure at Nike including key roles in product and merchandising across men’s performance and sportswear categories in multiple regions.
In his new position, Bolte will oversee the strategic direction of merchandising, planning, and business development across all product categories.
“Matt’s deep expertise in executing complex, global merchandising strategies and extensive industry experience will be invaluable as we continue to strengthen our leadership position in both our technical outdoor and premium apparel businesses,” said Stuart Haselden, CEO of Arc’teryx.
“Over the past year, the merchandising team has undergone a transformative journey. With Matt’s deep understanding of merchandising and his passion for the Arc’teryx brand, he is an excellent fit for this role.”
Meanwhile, Pardini joins Arc’teryx from Vans, where she most recently served as chief product and merchandising officer. In this role, she oversaw the global apparel and footwear product functions, helping drive Vans’ direct-to-consumer sales past the $1 billion mark. Pardini’s experience also includes leadership roles at The North Face and Bloomingdale’s.
As general manager of Veilance, Pardini will lead the brand’s global strategy, ensuring continued alignment with its mission to deliver precision-engineered apparel for urban environments.
Lastly, Stubbington brings nearly 20 years of design leadership experience to Veilance. He previously served as senior vice president of design for Lululemon, where he oversaw men’s, men’s and women’s Lab, and overarching creative direction for the business. Prior to that, Stubbington was creative director for Theory’s men’s division for nearly eight years. He is also a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
Stubbington will oversee Veilance’s creative direction, shaping its product offerings and brand identity.
“The addition of Marissa and Ben to our Veilance team marks a pivotal moment in our journey as we double down on our commitment to innovation and excellence with this unique line in the Arc’teryx collection,” added Haselden. “Their combined leadership and innovative thinking will be instrumental in elevating Veilance as a leader in the performance luxury space.”
French luxury group Kering announced on Thursday it had sold 100% of its Italian The Mall Luxury Outlets to U.S. real estate investor Simon, generating some €350 million in net proceeds as part of a wider plan to restructure its real estate portfolio.
Kering’s brands will maintain a presence in the two sites, located near Florence and Sanremo, the company said.
E-commerce firm ESW announced on Thursday the appointment of Tonia Luykx as chief revenue officer.
Luykx replaces Martim Avillez Oliveira, and will be based in ESW’s Dublin headquarters. She will report directly to ESW chief executive officer, Eric Eichmann.
With more than 20 years of expertise in sales and leadership, Luykx joins ESW from Xeneta, a freight intelligence and analytics platform, where she served as CRO. Prior to Xeneta, the executive held positions of increasing importance at Sift, the AI-powered security platform, where she was most recently vice president of global sales and interim CRO. She was also head of Amazon Pay Ireland for Amazon Pay UK and Ireland, and head of strategic accounts for Dropbox in the UK and Ireland.
Earlier in her career she was country sales manager for Google Enterprise Ireland, and Microsoft Dynamics sales manager for Logica UK. She began her career at SAP Business Development.
“Tonia’s extensive international experience leading strategic planning, marketing, customer success and sales for some of the world’s top businesses makes her the perfect candidate to fill this role,” said Eichmann.
“Her leadership skills and deep knowledge of enterprise solutions encompassing shipping, payments, fraud and customer service will benefit the entire organization as we expand into new business verticals and markets.”
ESW offers brands solutions that reduce cross-border complexity, localizing the online shopping experience to increase conversions and loyalty while also taking on the complications of doing business in international markets.