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KidSuper: Tornado hits Paris menswear

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January 26, 2025

The worst storm in history hit Ireland this weekend, and a virtual tornado hit the runway of Irish American designer Colm Dillane in Paris during his latest epic staging for his brand KidSuper.

Kidsuper Studios – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 
A memorable gift from Daniel Wurtzel, the artist with whom Dillane collaborated, who created a mini-maelstrom of dry ice and feathers, and a staging of great bravura beauty.
 
Around which Dillane, a funky fine artist, sent his cast in a gutsy collection of patchwork panache, intriguing intarsia and striking imagery.

As a young man, Dillane studied mathematics at NYU. But had been sketching, painting and designing for many years, before his stop-motion mock runway show of fashion figures went viral on the web during Covid, suddenly seeing his profile explode.
 
So, even amid a soaking Saturday night, 2,000 fans headed out to the former slaughterhouse La Villette on the rim of Paris to catch this show. On their seats were mock blue KidSuper Citizen passports, featuring a map of the world. Within, the program note unveiled a series of partnerships.
 
Such as the white Bathing Ape collab’ T-shirts emblazoned with an image of spiky pre-teen Dillane with a painter’s easel. Or some fine black suits with Wildside Yohji Yamamoto – gangster chalk-stripes have occasional vertical stripes reading KidSuper.  And, in a Margiela-worthy conceptual twist Colm had his cast carry new sneakers inside clear plastic display boxes.
 

Kidsuper Studios – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Though he opened with Geisha figures in humongous veils, and a series of massively cloaked nomads, huge cotton scarves coiled around their faces. Anything was a raw material for his down coats – embroidered nylon, intarsia, camouflage or tapestry. While his hand-painted designs of arty figures and the human form decorated some great bags.

Dillane can’t quite tailor like Giorgio Armani or drape like Alber Elbaz, but when it comes to runway theatrics and bold imagery, the likes of John Galliano or Alexander McQueen would be impressed.
 
Like all true Celts, he loves to talk, so much so he takes to the stage with a microphone for his ovations. This season, amid flying feathers in mini-swirl Dillane explained: “Building a tornado indoors is not easy, but I collaborate with amazing people and an artist called Daniel Wurzel… But I try to do the impossible every time. So, see you guys next year.”
 

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Fashion

German retailers see slower sales growth over consumer uncertainty

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January 31, 2025

German retail sales rose in 2024, but growth should be more modest this year due to the high level of uncertainty, according to retail association HDE.

Last year, retail sales rose 1.1% compared to the previous year in inflation-adjusted terms, official data showed on Friday. The HDE forecasts 0.5% growth in real terms this year.

“Consumption and the retail sector in Germany will not really gain momentum in 2025 either,” said HDE managing director Stefan Genth.
“There is simply too much uncertainty,” he said. “Wars, high energy costs and overall economic stagnation are a toxic cocktail for consumption.”

In nominal terms, retail sales rose by 2.5% in 2024 and are expected to grow by 2.0% in 2025, according to HDE’s forecast.

The latest HDE survey with 700 retailers shows that 22% of respondents expect sales to increase this year, while almost half of them expect results to be below the previous year’s level.

In December, retail sales fell by 1.6% compared with the previous month, official data showed. Analysts had predicted a 0.2% increase.

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John Lewis had disappointing festive season

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January 31, 2025

Many big names in UK retail had a good Christmas season — despite the sector being generally sluggish — but it seems John Lewis Partnership (JLP) may not have been one of them.

The retailer — which operates its eponymous department stores and webstore, plus Waitrose supermarkets — has missed its profit target after a disappointing festive season.

It hasn’t shared any info officially but internal documents seen by The Telegraph suggest bad news to come when it does release its results.

Those internal documents have only been shared with staff so far with the company saying that sales have fallen short of expectations and it’s unlikely to achieve its hoped-for £131 million full-year profit.

The company is said to have blamed “lower consumer confidence and weaker than expected market confidence” for the sales miss in the month to 21 December, although also the fact that key trading days fell outside the period.

Sales targets were missed at both of the firm’s chains, although the newspaper said it still claimed it outperformed rivals and staff should be “proud of our performance”.

It will be interesting therefore to see exactly what its figures were as  a number of rivals have actually reported a good Christmas. If its stores have beaten other supermarkets and chains like M&S, perhaps its targets were too ambitious in the first place.

We won’t know for a while, but we do know that with M&S resurgent, JLP’s supermarkets and department stores have lost some of their lustre as the destination of choice for Britain’s middle classes.

So what were the firm’s benchmarks? Back in September it had said it was seeing strong demand and expected a significant rise in profits for the year to January. The prior year’s pre-tax profit had been £56 million and the year before that it made a loss.

It had also talked about its turnaround efforts paying off and that it was seeing a “considerable improvement” in performance, with the John Lewis chain in particular expected to benefit from a buoyant second half.

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Kim Jones steps down from Dior menswear creative helm

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January 31, 2025

Christian Dior Couture announced on Friday that Kim Jones, its Dior Homme artistic director, is leaving the post after seven years.

Dior Men – Spring-Summer2025 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

It’s been rumoured for some time that he would exit the label but it’s not yet known what his next step will be.

Jones has been widely praised for his work at Dior with his latest men’s collection shown this month being hailed as a success.

He’s been a key creative at LVMH having also designed its Fendi women’s collections. And he helmed Louis Vuitton’s menswear before he joined Dior.

The company said it “wishes to express its deepest gratitude” to the designer “who has accelerated the development of Men’s collections internationally and has greatly contributed to the worldwide influence of the House by creating an inspiring wardrobe that is both classic and contemporary, and connected to some artists of our time”.

And Delphine Arnault, who’s chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture, added: “I am extremely grateful for the remarkable work done by Kim Jones, his studio, and the ateliers. With all his talent and creativity, he has constantly reinterpreted the House’s heritage with genuine freedom of tone and surprising, highly desirable artistic collaborations.”

Jones meanwhile called it a “true honour to have been able to create my collections within the House of Dior, a symbol of absolute excellence. I express my deep gratitude to my studio and the ateliers who have accompanied me on this wonderful journey. They have brought my creations to life. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the artists and friends I have met through my collaborations. Lastly, I feel sincere gratitude towards Bernard and Delphine Arnault, who have given me their full support.”

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