French Culture Minister Rachida Dati on Thursday unveiled a new plan for French fashion including financial support for young designers and residences for fledgling talent.
“Wherever you go, when you think of fashion, you think of Paris. And we are determined to guarantee that remains the case,” explained Dati, in what was billed as a media statement but turned into a scrum of French TV crews.
Before the self-assured minister revealed that the ministry will provide some €200,000 in annual financing for various aids to young designers.
Among the innovations, she promised access for young designers to the Quadrilatère des Archives, a series of grand palaces in the Marais. Even though these spaces have been used quite frequently in recent years by emerging designers to stage shows.
The ministry will also provide a $10,000 grant and one-month residency in the Villa Medici, the French cultural center in Rome. A bourse of €20,000 to fund the creation of costumes for the Chaillot Theater working with a young choreographer; a Patrimony of the World bourse of €10,000 for three years for a research student in public fashion archives; and a further three years bourse of the same amount to study fashion prospective and innovation.
Dati made her remarks inside Sphere, the talent incubator of the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion’s governing body. Touring the space and chatting animatedly with young designers both French and foreign – from Arthur Robert of denim-driven Quest from Paris; to Spanish-born Marie Bernard of the label Les Fleurs.
Earlier in the day, she had visited the Louvre, where she helped unveil Louvre Couture, an unprecedented exhibition of the great museum’s rare couture archives, curated by fashion and applied art expert Olivier Gabet.
Dati, one of 11 children born into a family from a poor district in provincial France, studied law before entering politics. Rising to be Minister of Justice in the government of Nicolas Sarkozy. Last year, under the presidency of Emmanuel Macron, she was named Minister of Culture of France, the first country to have created such a position back under General de Gaulle.
At times, it felt as if a flash mob had descended around Dati into Sphere, as fashion honchos, a half-dozen French TV crews, a dozen political paparazzi, nervous ministry staff, designers and models vied for her attention.
In effect, despite the laudable initiatives, the confusing scramble and soi-disant presentation unintentionally mirrored the confusion in the greater political scene in France.
One of the world’s great democracies, France managed to run through four different prime ministers in less than one year.
Burberry announced a key appointment on Friday with the luxury business saying it will soon have a new chief information officer.
It has appointed Charlotte Baldwin to the role and she’ll join the business at the end of March. Baldwin will be responsible for leading Burberry’s global technology team and will join the executive committee. She’ll report directly to Burberry CEO Joshua Schulman.
He described her as “a highly experienced technology and digital leader with a track record of leading large-scale digital transformation”.
She hasn’t previously worked in the luxury fashion sector but has wide-ranging experience across some major-name businesses in Britain.
She’s currently the global chief digital and information officer at coffee chain Costa Coffee where she oversees the company’s technology, digital and data organisation.
Prior to joining that firm, she was the chief information, digital and transformation officer at private healthcare giant Bupa’s Bupa Insurance unit. She’s also held senior roles at Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer, Pearson and Thomson Reuters.
Burberry has been navigating a tough period of late and Schulman joined in the top job last year, tweaking the firm’s strategy. His approach seems to be paying off with the company last week porting improved results, although the turnaround is still undeniable a work in progress.
Another day, another shopping centre delivering a “record-breaking” performance in 2024. This time it’s Gloucester Quays “capping off another year of considerable growth”, for the owner/operator Peel Retail & Leisure.
That included record Christmas trading at the key Gloucester mall, which helped overall sales for the year finish 6.7% ahead of the national average. Across November and December, retail sales grew 3.6% compared with 2023.
Looking at 2024 in total, an overall 7.4% year-on-year sales increase across its tenants was split between 6.1% for retail, and 8.5% for F&B.
But there was also double-digit growth from leading fashion, homewares, and outerwear brands including Next, Skechers, All Saints, Mountain Warehouse, Puma, Crew Clothing and Suit Direct.
It said sustained growth was seen across all categories “points to the increasing relevance of the Gloucester Quays experience”.
Paul Carter, asset director at Peel Retail & Leisure, added: “There have been various headlines this month about how challenged retail was around Christmas, so to have Gloucester Quays performing so well is a real credit to our team and our brands.
“These results also serve as a reminder of how relevant and in demand this outlet is. We have experienced consistent growth for several years, and that success can be put down to the quality of our offer and waterside environment. There is no doubt our catchment is responding to how we have evolved Gloucester Quays, as an urban outlet that combines a compelling shopping environment with dining and leisure to fit all tastes and needs, benefitting from a heritage waterside setting that few regionally can match.”
Italy’s Give Back Beauty, which makes perfumes for luxury brands such as Chopard and Zegna, on Friday said it had agreed to buy domestic rival AB Parfums to grow its distribution operations and add licensing deals.
Fragrances have been outperforming the broader beauty sector and Give Back Beauty founder and Chairman Corrado Brondi told Reuters his company did not rule a possible bourse listing in the future, adding it had no financial need for it at present.
Brondi said AB Parfumes had sales of around €100 million, which would add to Give Back Beauty’s net revenues that totalled around €300 million in 2024.
Give Back Beauty, which was founded in 2019 and has a distribution deal with Dolce & Gabbana and a beauty license with Tommy Hilfiger, has a core profit margin currently a little over 15%, it said.
AB Parfums is being sold by Italy’s Angelini Industries, a family-owned group that is mostly active in the pharmaceutical sector.
Give Back Beauty’s business is currently focused on fragrances, which represent roughly 70% of its revenues, but it aims to grow its skincare, make-up and haircare product lines, Brondi said.