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Woolrich shows third Black Label collection in Milan, prepares China retail expansion

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Nicola Mira

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January 23, 2025

Woolrich has shown at Milan Fashion Week Men its third Black Label collection, created in collaboration with US designer Todd Snyder, founder of the eponymous New York-based label, who was named global creative director of Woolrich Black Label at the end of 2023.

Woolrich Black Label, Fall/Winter 2025-26 – DR

 
“We’ve had very interesting feedback from consumers on the Black Label line,” said Lorenzo Flamini, CFO of Woolrich, talking to FashionNetwork.com. “The Black Label line is currently available on our e-shop and at about 10 directly operated stores between Europe and Japan, as well as on the Todd Snyder e-shop and at the label’s 25 stores in the USA,” he added.

The Woolrich Black Label collection for Fall/Winter 2025-26 is inspired by the volcanic and glacial landscapes of Northern Europe. It reinterprets performance outerwear and winter apparel in a contemporary way, combining functionality, luxury and elegance. Snyder has named the 60-item collection ‘Ice Fall’. It reflects the essence of nature in the wilderness through key items like the oversize, glacier-inspired tie-dye parka, the triple-layered waterproof wool field jacket, and the water-repellent nylon cargo jacket, decorated with a printed pattern evoking the frozen surfaces of Nordic lakes. Also included, a new take on Woolrich’s iconic Buffalo Check shirt, enhanced with reflective fibres woven into the fabric.

Woolrich Black Label, Fall/Winter 2025-26 – DR

 
“My goal with this collection was to reinterpret the concept of ‘rugged luxury’, combining technical outerwear silhouettes designed for extreme conditions with fabrics of the highest quality, redesigned to resist the elements,” Snyder said. “The result is a wardrobe that embodies the concept of ‘wanderluxe’: Garments that are as functional as they are sophisticated, perfect for exploring nature as well as city streets in style,” he added.

Woolrich has produced the garments in collaboration with Italian manufacturers including Olmetex, Limonta, Bacci and Majocchi, aiming to develop exclusive fabrics combining high performance with elegance. The colour palette is minimalist and sophisticated, featuring hues like Meteorite Black, Oyster Mushroom and Cardamom Seed, accented with bright Aurora Red accents. “I wanted a mix of all the elements I love: streetwear, workwear, military style, vintage and luxury. The outcome is a collection that responds to the contemporary demand for garments that are as practical as they are stylistically unique,” said Snyder.
 

Woolrich Black Label, Fall/Winter 2025-26 – DR

In retail distribution terms, Woolrich is continuing its partnership with Baoxiniao Holdings Co. Ltd. The deal with the Chinese group, owner of brands like Saint Angelo, Hazzys, Bono and Camicissima, was announced last December, and is aimed at expanding Woolrich’s presence in Asia.

“Our focus is on China, a market in which we already have a presence that we can define as superficial, but in which we want to grow via our new local partner. We’re planning to open a series of monobrand stores, the first few of them this year,” concluded Flamini. According to company policy, he declined to share any detail of Woolrich’s 2024 financial results.

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Fashion

Burberry names new exec in charge of tech team

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January 31, 2025

Burberry announced a key appointment on Friday with the luxury business saying it will soon have a new chief information officer.

Charlotte Baldwin

It has appointed Charlotte Baldwin to the role and she’ll join the business at the end of March. Baldwin will be responsible for leading Burberry’s global technology team and will join the executive committee. She’ll report directly to Burberry CEO Joshua Schulman

He described her as “a highly experienced technology and digital leader with a track record of leading large-scale digital transformation”.

She hasn’t previously worked in the luxury fashion sector but has wide-ranging experience across some major-name businesses in Britain.

She’s currently the global chief digital and information officer at coffee chain Costa Coffee where she oversees the company’s technology, digital and data organisation. 

Prior to joining that firm, she was the chief information, digital and transformation officer at private healthcare giant Bupa’s Bupa Insurance unit. She’s also held senior roles at Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer, Pearson and Thomson Reuters.

Burberry has been navigating a tough period of late and Schulman joined in the top job last year, tweaking the firm’s strategy. His approach seems to be paying off with the company last week porting improved results, although the turnaround is still undeniable a work in progress.

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Gloucester Quays joins the record-breaking band of shopping centre successes

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January 31, 2025

Another day, another shopping centre delivering a “record-breaking” performance in 2024. This time it’s Gloucester Quays “capping off another year of considerable growth”, for the owner/operator Peel Retail & Leisure.

That included record Christmas trading at the key Gloucester mall, which helped overall sales for the year finish 6.7% ahead of the national average. Across November and December, retail sales grew 3.6% compared with 2023.
 
Looking at 2024 in total, an overall 7.4% year-on-year sales increase across its tenants was split between 6.1% for retail, and 8.5% for F&B.

But there was also double-digit growth from leading fashion, homewares, and outerwear brands including Next, Skechers, All Saints, Mountain Warehouse, Puma, Crew Clothing and Suit Direct. 

It said sustained growth was seen across all categories “points to the increasing relevance of the Gloucester Quays experience”.

Paul Carter, asset director at Peel Retail & Leisure, added: “There have been various headlines this month about how challenged retail was around Christmas, so to have Gloucester Quays performing so well is a real credit to our team and our brands.

“These results also serve as a reminder of how relevant and in demand this outlet is. We have experienced consistent growth for several years, and that success can be put down to the quality of our offer and waterside environment. There is no doubt our catchment is responding to how we have evolved Gloucester Quays, as an urban outlet that combines a compelling shopping environment with dining and leisure to fit all tastes and needs, benefitting from a heritage waterside setting that few regionally can match.”

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Chopard fragrance licensee Give Back Beauty agrees to buy rival AB Parfumes

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January 31, 2025

Italy’s Give Back Beauty, which makes perfumes for luxury brands such as Chopard and Zegna, on Friday said it had agreed to buy domestic rival AB Parfums to grow its distribution operations and add licensing deals.

Corrado Brondi, founder and president of Give Back Beauty

AB Parfums has an agreement with beauty giant L’Oréal Group to distribute some of its fragrances such as Ralph Lauren, Maison Margiela and Diesel. It also produces and distributes fragrances for brands such as Trussardi and Laura Biagiotti.

Fragrances have been outperforming the broader beauty sector and Give Back Beauty founder and Chairman Corrado Brondi told Reuters his company did not rule a possible bourse listing in the future, adding it had no financial need for it at present.

Brondi said AB Parfumes had sales of around €100 million, which would add to Give Back Beauty’s net revenues that totalled around €300 million in 2024.

Give Back Beauty, which was founded in 2019 and has a distribution deal with Dolce & Gabbana and a beauty license with Tommy Hilfiger, has a core profit margin currently a little over 15%, it said.

AB Parfums is being sold by Italy’s Angelini Industries, a family-owned group that is mostly active in the pharmaceutical sector.

Give Back Beauty’s business is currently focused on fragrances, which represent roughly 70% of its revenues, but it aims to grow its skincare, make-up and haircare product lines, Brondi said. 
 

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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