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Pitti Bimbo responds to childrenswear market’s evolution

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Nicola Mira

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January 23, 2025

The 100th edition of childrenswear show Pitti Bimbo opened on Wednesday January 22 at the Fortezza da Basso venue in Florence, under a sprinkling of light rain. The show’s centenary edition has been presented as a transformational one, while the childrenswear industry is forced to take stock in the face of slumping consumption. “If you read the number 100 in reverse, it becomes 001,” argued the event’s communication.

At Pitti Bimbo on January 22, 2025 – FNW

Pitti Bimbo brought together 170 exhibitors, 65% of them from outside Italy, and was held over two days, as opposed to three in the past, making it busier. The range of brands on show at the new-look event included, besides ready-to-wear and fashion accessories, also some from the beauty, lifestyle and even food sectors. The latter is a sector that Pitti Immagine, Pitti Bimbo’s organiser, is very familiar with, because its portfolio includes Taste 18, a trade show for the catering industry. By broadening the range of exhibitors, as some of its competitors are doing, Pitti Bimbo is setting out to appeal to concept stores too.

The show’s centenary edition also featured the return of some leading Italian childrenswear names, for example Monnalisa, which had not exhibited since the pandemic. “Childrenswear is a small slice of the bigger fashion industry pie. And the slice is shrinking,” said Matteo Tugliani, CEO of Monnalisa, underlining that the key to continued success lies in boosting client engagement.

Monnalisa came to Pitti Bimbo with a large group of influencer mums and their children, notably seeking to promote the show on social media, ultimately aiming to reach end-consumers. Monnalisa distributes its products online, via the wholesale channel, and through some 40 monobrand stores, and now regards itself as a platform. “We’ve started producing childrenswear collections under licence for the Aeffe group, and we recently entered the second-hand market,” said Tugliani.

According to Leonardo Basagni, managing director of Italian group Miniconf, whose brand portfolio includes Sarabanda and the childrenswear licenses for Ducati and Roy Rogers, the children’s fashion market in Italy remains rather “flat,” but it is streamlining, with smaller players dropping out.

Among other exhibitors were big textile players such as Bestseller from Denmark, which came with four brands, including Only and Name It, as well as new brands like Vélocipède.

The latter was founded in New York by Vitaliy Bukhtulov, and presented a co-ed collection for girls and boys inspired by menswear looks. A successful mix of evergreen and more directional items, designed in Portugal with materials mostly sourced from Nona Source.
 

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Fashion

Burberry names new exec in charge of tech team

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January 31, 2025

Burberry announced a key appointment on Friday with the luxury business saying it will soon have a new chief information officer.

Charlotte Baldwin

It has appointed Charlotte Baldwin to the role and she’ll join the business at the end of March. Baldwin will be responsible for leading Burberry’s global technology team and will join the executive committee. She’ll report directly to Burberry CEO Joshua Schulman

He described her as “a highly experienced technology and digital leader with a track record of leading large-scale digital transformation”.

She hasn’t previously worked in the luxury fashion sector but has wide-ranging experience across some major-name businesses in Britain.

She’s currently the global chief digital and information officer at coffee chain Costa Coffee where she oversees the company’s technology, digital and data organisation. 

Prior to joining that firm, she was the chief information, digital and transformation officer at private healthcare giant Bupa’s Bupa Insurance unit. She’s also held senior roles at Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer, Pearson and Thomson Reuters.

Burberry has been navigating a tough period of late and Schulman joined in the top job last year, tweaking the firm’s strategy. His approach seems to be paying off with the company last week porting improved results, although the turnaround is still undeniable a work in progress.

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Gloucester Quays joins the record-breaking band of shopping centre successes

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January 31, 2025

Another day, another shopping centre delivering a “record-breaking” performance in 2024. This time it’s Gloucester Quays “capping off another year of considerable growth”, for the owner/operator Peel Retail & Leisure.

That included record Christmas trading at the key Gloucester mall, which helped overall sales for the year finish 6.7% ahead of the national average. Across November and December, retail sales grew 3.6% compared with 2023.
 
Looking at 2024 in total, an overall 7.4% year-on-year sales increase across its tenants was split between 6.1% for retail, and 8.5% for F&B.

But there was also double-digit growth from leading fashion, homewares, and outerwear brands including Next, Skechers, All Saints, Mountain Warehouse, Puma, Crew Clothing and Suit Direct. 

It said sustained growth was seen across all categories “points to the increasing relevance of the Gloucester Quays experience”.

Paul Carter, asset director at Peel Retail & Leisure, added: “There have been various headlines this month about how challenged retail was around Christmas, so to have Gloucester Quays performing so well is a real credit to our team and our brands.

“These results also serve as a reminder of how relevant and in demand this outlet is. We have experienced consistent growth for several years, and that success can be put down to the quality of our offer and waterside environment. There is no doubt our catchment is responding to how we have evolved Gloucester Quays, as an urban outlet that combines a compelling shopping environment with dining and leisure to fit all tastes and needs, benefitting from a heritage waterside setting that few regionally can match.”

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Chopard fragrance licensee Give Back Beauty agrees to buy rival AB Parfumes

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January 31, 2025

Italy’s Give Back Beauty, which makes perfumes for luxury brands such as Chopard and Zegna, on Friday said it had agreed to buy domestic rival AB Parfums to grow its distribution operations and add licensing deals.

Corrado Brondi, founder and president of Give Back Beauty

AB Parfums has an agreement with beauty giant L’Oréal Group to distribute some of its fragrances such as Ralph Lauren, Maison Margiela and Diesel. It also produces and distributes fragrances for brands such as Trussardi and Laura Biagiotti.

Fragrances have been outperforming the broader beauty sector and Give Back Beauty founder and Chairman Corrado Brondi told Reuters his company did not rule a possible bourse listing in the future, adding it had no financial need for it at present.

Brondi said AB Parfumes had sales of around €100 million, which would add to Give Back Beauty’s net revenues that totalled around €300 million in 2024.

Give Back Beauty, which was founded in 2019 and has a distribution deal with Dolce & Gabbana and a beauty license with Tommy Hilfiger, has a core profit margin currently a little over 15%, it said.

AB Parfums is being sold by Italy’s Angelini Industries, a family-owned group that is mostly active in the pharmaceutical sector.

Give Back Beauty’s business is currently focused on fragrances, which represent roughly 70% of its revenues, but it aims to grow its skincare, make-up and haircare product lines, Brondi said. 
 

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