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No day-one tariffs but Trump plans trade overhaul, official says

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Reuters

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January 21, 2025

President Donald Trump did not immediately impose tariffs on Monday but said in his inaugural address the U.S. would collect “massive amounts” of income from foreign trade duties as his administration works to rebuild American industry.

Reuters

A Trump administration official said the new president would issue a broad trade memo that stops short of immediate tariffs but directs federal agencies to evaluate U.S. trade relationships with China, Canada and Mexico.

After weeks of global speculation over which duties Trump would impose on his first day in office, news that Trump would take more time on tariffs drove a relief rally in global stocks, while other major currencies rallied against the dollar.

Trump mentioned no specific tariff plans in his inaugural address, but repeated his intention to create the External Revenue Service, a new agency to collect “massive amounts” of tariffs, duties and other revenues from foreign sources.

“I will immediately begin the overhaul of our trade system to protect American workers and families,” Trump said. “Instead of taxing our citizens to enrich other countries, we will tariff and tax foreign countries to enrich our citizens.”

Trump added that his policies would make America “a manufacturing nation once again.”

Howard Lutnick, Trump’s nominee for Commerce Secretary who has been designated as his overall trade policy chief, told a rally that the External Revenue Service “will put up tariffs for walls of protection” for U.S. industry that will push foreign companies to build factories in America.

During his election campaign, Trump vowed to impose steep tariffs of 10% to 20% on global imports into the U.S. and 60% on goods from China to help reduce a trade deficit that now tops $1 trillion annually.

He said after his November election that he would sign “all necessary documents” upon taking office to impose an immediate 25% import surcharge on imports from Canada and Mexico if they failed to clamp down on the flow of illicit drugs and migrants entering the U.S. illegally.

Such duties would tear up longstanding trade agreements, upend supply chains and raise costs, according to trade experts.
The official, confirming a Wall Street Journal report that cited a summary of Trump’s memo, said the new president will instead direct agencies to investigate and remedy persistent trade deficits and address unfair trade and currency policies by other nations.

The memo will single out China, Canada and Mexico for scrutiny but will not announce new tariffs, the official said. It will direct agencies to assess Beijing’s compliance with its 2020 trade deal with the U.S., as well as the status of the U.S.-Mexico-Canada Agreement, the official said.

The U.S. dollar slumped broadly on the news against a basket of major trading partners’ currencies, with particularly large upswings in the euro, Canadian dollar, Mexican peso and Chinese yuan. MSCI’s measure of global stock markets rose. U.S. financial markets are closed for the Martin Luther King Jr. Day holiday.

Some industry groups and trade lawyers in Washington had speculated that Trump would invoke the International Emergency Economic Powers Act, a law with sweeping powers to control imports in times of national emergency, to impose immediate tariffs.

But the forthcoming trade memo signals a more methodical approach that would likely involve trade investigations under other legal authorities such as the Section 232 national security trade law and the Section 301 unfair trade practices statute. Trump invoked these laws during his first term, and probes on steel and aluminum and Chinese imports took months to complete.

Canadian Finance Minister Dominic LeBlanc told reporters in Ottawa that it would be a positive step for the U.S. to study bilateral trade ties rather than impose tariffs. Industry groups also expressed relief at the reported lack of immediate duties.

“U.S. businesses would welcome a deliberative approach that identifies unfair trade practices and helps Americans succeed in the global economy,” said Jake Colvin, president of the National Foreign Trade Council, which represents a broad swath of large American companies on trade matters.

Trade analysts said they still expect Trump to press ahead with a global tariff early in his administration.
“The universal tariff was a core part of the economic plan he ran on and I think he’s going to do what he said he would,” said Kelly Ann Shaw, a former White House trade adviser during Trump’s first term.

“This is an idea he’s supported for a long time,” Shaw, now with the Hogan Lovells law firm, said in an interview last week.

In his 2017-2021 first term, Trump’s administration used investigations to impose tariffs on steel and aluminum imports and launch duties on some $370 billion worth of Chinese imports, igniting a tit-for-tat tariff war between the world’s two largest economies.

The U.S. and China ended the conflict in 2020 with a deal for Beijing to boost its purchases of U.S. exports from farm goods to aircraft by $200 billion annually but never followed through as the pandemic hit. The forthcoming memo indicates that Trump’s administration will try to push China to keep those commitments.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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Fashion

Iceberg Jeans is back under creative director James Long

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Ansa

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Nicola Mira

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January 31, 2025

Iceberg Jeans, the iconic streetwear line by Italian label Iceberg, is back. Under creative director James Long, the Iceberg Jeans line embodies a vibrant state of mind: fun, inclusive, contemporary, and accessible. Besides denim, the new collection includes outerwear, knitwear, tailored items, casual wear and accessories.

Iceberg Jeans

“I’ve always wanted to give Iceberg Jeans a new lease of life,” said Long, the creative director at Iceberg. “The brand has a unique energy, and like everything that Iceberg represents, it’s always about looking to the future with optimism. I love these designs, and I hope that others too will appreciate them and make them part of their everyday lives.”

Iceberg Jeans debuted in 1986, soon emerging as a bold brand bringing Italian design, with its mix of playfulness and wearability, to the world. Its success was fuelled by word of mouth, and by campaigns that have become pop culture icons, featuring celebrities such as Lil’ Kim and Paris Hilton. The new collection refreshes the positive essence of Iceberg Jeans’s heritage while looking to the future. The Iceberg Jeans Fall 2025 collection will be available at selected wholesale partners, Iceberg stores and online from June 2025.

Copyright © 2025 ANSA. All rights reserved.



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Paris Haute Couture Week celebrates young designers with Peet Dullaert and London-based Miss Sohee

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Translated by

Nicola Mira

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January 31, 2025

Experimentation and innovation were the name of the game on the last day of Paris Haute Couture Week. Emerging couturiers took centre stage on Thursday, like Peet Dullaert, 35, from the Netherlands, and Miss Sohee, 28, from Korea. The latter staged her maiden couture week show, as a guest on the event’s official calendar. Dullaert and Miss Sohee unveiled Spring/Summer 2025 collections characterised by contrasting styles.

Peet Dullaert, Spring/Summer 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Dullaert, a Paris-based Dutch designer, showed for the first time at Paris Haute Couture Week exactly a year ago. In his third Parisian show, he juxtaposed glamourous looks with more everyday ones, like the suits and trousers sets or the black tweed maxi coat, worn back-to-front with the cuffs, pockets and buttons at the rear, which could morph into an evening dress if needed.

Dullaert’s couture looks were made from bodysuits and playsuits in tight stretch fabric, on which he added long, sheer flared skirts decorated with geometric patterns embroidered with gems, or made with swathes of silk draped directly on the body, giving the models real freedom of movement. The feeling of freedom was heightened by the use of a wrinkled high-performance fabric developed by the label.

Other looks were covered with thin tassels lined with sequins, or with crystals, with draped white and black tulle, taffeta and other glimmering silks. Dullaert’s looks were characterised by flowing volumes and silhouettes, but he didn’t shy away from intervening decisively in the garments’ construction, for example baring a shoulder or cutting his dresses with long slits along the legs.

The couture show by Miss Sohee, real name Sohee Park, was eagerly awaited. The London-based Korean designer showed twice before in Paris, and was a hit on the Milanese runways in February 2022, backed by Dolce & Gabbana. She pulled out all the stops in Paris, immersing her guests in a magical universe where eras and bold silhouettes mixed spectacularly, showcased inside the gilded halls and under the majestic chandeliers of the Pozzo di Borgo palace.
 

Miss Sohee, Spring/Summer 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Miss Sohee’s ladies seemed to be ready for a grand ball with their shimmering, vibrantly coloured crinoline dresses, satin sheath dresses glittering with pearls, and statement coats whose long trains were ornamented with embroidered bucolic scenes, like a golden peacock or floral branches, rich in crystals and sequins. Looks worthy of the Venice Carnival.
 
Botticelli’s Venus seemed to have inspired Miss Sohee, scallops and seashells being among the key elements in her collection. A large shell rose like a fan at the back of a corset which extended into a long, faded-pink silk skirt. Elsewhere, shells encased the hips in two short bustier dresses in python and crocodile-effect leather, or added length to a bustier entirely decorated with gems that was sewn onto a tulle top dotted with mother-of-pearl drops.
 
Shells embroidered in small patterns featured on a silk duchesse dress, and more shells in silver pleated fabric turned into a micro hooded jacket over a Fantômas-style black velvet jumpsuit, with a double row of white pearls draped around the waist.
 
Nothing seemed too precious and extravagant for Miss Sohee’s ladies, who also wore more contemporary outfits consisting of lace jumpsuits, miniskirts and laced thigh-high boots. Park founded her label in 2020, after studying at Central Saint Martins in London, and her customers include scores of celebrities, among them names like Cardi B. and Bella Hadid.
 

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Almost all Britons are now shopping in physical stores

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January 31, 2025

All hail physical retail. The demise of the high street store predicted in the early pandemic period was wide of the mark as a near nine out of 10 of Britons visited a retail destination during October and November.

Photo: Pixabay/Public domain

In fact, 88% now shop in-store, an amazing increase of 86.1% since last May. And it’s been heavily influenced by workers increasingly returning to city and town centre offices as well as consumers aged under 35. 

That’s according the the latest Consumer Pulse Report by MRI Software/Retail Economics showing “high streets remain the lifeblood of the retail ecosystem”, leading in visitor frequency with an average of 2.2 visits per person per month “reinforcing their importance as destinations that bring people together.”

The survey reveals that 31% of office workers play a key role in high street retail, with visits peaking during lunch hours while 33% of them choose to visit after 5pm on weekdays, particularly Tuesdays and Wednesdays which have become the popular days to venture into the office. 

“As return to office becomes more widespread, the retail sector has an opportunity to maximise engagement and sales by leveraging these insights and presenting itself as a convenient shopping option for the hybrid workforce”, the report highlights.

Working from home is increasingly becoming a non-starter for many businesses with regular news stories about major companies insisting that their staff returned to the office full-time or at least three or four days a week.

Further, the under-35 demographic is increasingly motivated by experiential retail opportunities. 

In November, this age group averaged 9.5 visits to physical retail destinations, more than double the frequency of those aged 55 and over. 

Interestingly, the rise of social commerce, which enables shoppers to make purchases within social media apps such as TikTok and Instagram, “is likely influencing footfall into physical retail destinations and creating opportunities for in-store experiences”, the study claims.

Jenni Matthews, marketing & insights director, MRI Software, said: “The latest findings depict a retail sector that continues to adapt and remain relevant as consumer behaviours shift.

“With 88% of the UK population visiting retail destinations and under-35s driving experiential trends, it’s clear that physical retail remains a powerful touchpoint for engagement.

“Retailers have an incredible opportunity to leverage these insights, not just to meet consumer expectations, but to exceed them by creating vibrant, immersive destinations that align with changing consumer behaviours.”

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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